Wheel hub bearing recommendation

[nwa_viper]

Looking for replacement wheel hub recommendations for those of you that track your car. I’ve had mine replaced once under warranty a little over a year ago and looks like I need them replaced again. I’m in the process of replacing wheel studs with ARP and the rear driver’s hub is leaking pretty bad. 46880

[ViperGeorge]

I just replaced mine in the last two weeks with OEM hubs.

[TQMonster]

Go to Doug Shelby Engineering he has wheel hubs with silicon nitride ceramic bearings. Should do the trick and hold up well on the track.

[blknblubkrdude]

I've also had problems with Mopar hubs leaking the grease out, never had one fail completely, though. SKF Generation 3 hubs will exceed the quality of OEM. $89 on www.rockauto.com SKF #BR930045

[ViperGeorge]

By the way, I replaced my hubs, not because they were leaking. When you track the car you have to consider hubs/bearings as wear items. I also started to break lugs after a few years of changing tires before and after track days.

[nwa_viper]

I've also had problems with Mopar hubs leaking the grease out, never had one fail completely, though. SKF Generation 3 hubs will exceed the quality of OEM. $89 on www.rockauto.com SKF #BR930045

Thanks, I’ll try a pair. At that price they’re cheap enough to keep spares.

[sharmut]

Gen V ACR OEM rear wheel bearings are # 4848716 (https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-hub-brake~4848716.html?vin=1C3BDECZ3GV100311&make=Dodge&model=Viper&year=2016&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(T=DD1;M=SRT%20ACR)). I got my last set from: https://www.viperpartsusa.com/all-products/product-category/wheel-bearings-oem-cl/?swoof=1

Moog alternative. Never tried them, can't speak to the fit and durability.
46883

[steve911]

For those of us who race Viper Comp Coupes, in the operation/maintenance manual for the car, it says to torque the rear nuts 50ftlbs tighter than the street car manual says AND it also notes that the bearings will seep on purpose in order keep the bearings lubed. Unless they are noisy leave the bearings alone.

[nwa_viper]

For those of us who race Viper Comp Coupes, in the operation/maintenance manual for the car, it says to torque the rear nuts 50ftlbs tighter than the street car manual says AND it also notes that the bearings will seep on purpose in order keep the bearings lubed. Unless they are noisy leave the bearings alone.

This is good information. So as long as there’s no play and they’re not making noise, continue to run them.

[J TNT]

For those of us who race Viper Comp Coupes, in the operation/maintenance manual for the car, it says to torque the rear nuts 50ftlbs tighter than the street car manual says AND it also notes that the bearings will seep on purpose in order keep the bearings lubed. Unless they are noisy leave the bearings alone.

Thanks Steve for the insight .

[sharmut]

For those of us who race Viper Comp Coupes, in the operation/maintenance manual for the car, it says to torque the rear nuts 50ftlbs tighter than the street car manual says AND it also notes that the bearings will seep on purpose in order keep the bearings lubed. Unless they are noisy leave the bearings alone.

Good info Steve, does the manual happen to mention the service intervals?

[Arizona Vipers]

I also started to break lugs after a few years of changing tires before and after track days.
Man that's weird, do you always use a breaker bar first before the impact wrench?

[Arizona Vipers]

Go to Doug Shelby Engineering he has wheel hubs with silicon nitride ceramic bearings. Should do the trick and hold up well on the track.

Man I want these so bad! Just a little pricey for me right now. Saves weight and it's gotta add 5hp or so, maybe more...

[nwa_viper]

Anyone know how the Rockauto warranties work? I notice several of the replacement hubs have 36month warranties. Curious if they’ll send you another if they fail or do you have to deal with the manufacturer.

[ViperGeorge]

Man that's weird, do you always use a breaker bar first before the impact wrench?

Yes, always. I start them by hand and I loosen them with a breaker bar. Last one I broke was in the rear. It came off about 1/2 way and then froze. Had to break it off.

[GTS Dean]

Same here, but I often use a torque wrench on initial loosening. I very lightly snug them with a 3/8 electric impact, then follow with torque wrench.

[TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM]

Timken bearings if you can find them, SKF second choice. The hub bearings used on the viper are maxed out especially on the rear. There is no magic fix or exotic material that will change this problem. The problem comes from design and lack of real-estate for proper design and size bearing for the loads the viper is capable of. Good news is bearings are easy to change and cheap ( if an oil change is a "1" on the scale of difficulty wheels bearings are a "5") ; So you put wheel bearings on the consumable maintenance list and keep an eye on them. We get 4-5k very hard track miles on Timken rear bearings

[sharmut]

We get 4-5k very hard track miles on Timken rear bearings

Incredible, you guys put that many track miles on your ACR..

[LuvSpeed]

I've also had problems with Mopar hubs leaking the grease out, never had one fail completely, though. SKF Generation 3 hubs will exceed the quality of OEM. $89 on www.rockauto.com SKF #BR930045

Does this part number fit both the front and back?

[ViperGeorge]

Does this part number fit both the front and back?

No, front and rear hubs are different.

[ViperGeorge]

Timken bearings if you can find them, SKF second choice. The hub bearings used on the viper are maxed out especially on the rear. There is no magic fix or exotic material that will change this problem. The problem comes from design and lack of real-estate for proper design and size bearing for the loads the viper is capable of. Good news is bearings are easy to change and cheap ( if an oil change is a "1" on the scale of difficulty wheels bearings are a "5") ; So you put wheel bearings on the consumable maintenance list and keep an eye on them. We get 4-5k very hard track miles on Timken rear bearings

Can you post the exact Timken and SKF part numbers for both front and rear?

[sharmut]

Can you post the exact Timken and SKF part numbers for both front and rear?

I found the part numbers below online. Perhaps TKO can confirm.

46884

Not sure why SKF show 2 different part numbers for the front.
46886
46887

[J TNT]

Possibly for ABS sensor. ^^^^^^^

[Tay]

I found the part numbers below online. Perhaps TKO can confirm.

Thanks sharmut.

Can yo post the link to the website you found these on?

[TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM]

Last sets of bearing we ordered came from wholesalemopar.com. Only place that had timken or SKF bearings. Wholesalemopar lists mfg as JEEP but we had them check to confirm bearings were timken just to make sure. We tried other places who listed much cheaper timken bearings in stock but when we ordered they had a 90 day delay on shipping or no stock; Maybe this has changed but just a heads up. wholesalemopar also has some hard to find parts for vipers if your looking.

wholesmopar.com part#s

front part# 4763182AB
rear part# 4848716

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I found the part numbers below online.

I would be cautious ordering the fronts with anything but the Mopar P/N, the axle stub /nut may not be included.

[ViperGeorge]

I would be cautious ordering the fronts with anything but the Mopar P/N, the axle stub /nut may not be included.

Doug, did you mean to say rears? What is the axle stub nut on a front?

[sharmut]

Doug, did you mean to say rears? What is the axle stub nut on a front?

I suspect Doug is referring to the front hub, see highlighted in image.
46890

[ViperGeorge]

I suspect Doug is referring to the front hub, see highlighted in image.
46890

If that is the case why would they sell a hub without it? The hub would come apart, no?

[sharmut]

If that is the case why would they sell a hub without it? The hub would come apart, no?

Perhaps that HUB is used for other applications besides the viper, like a 4x4 truck where an axle would go through.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I suspect Doug is referring to the front hub, see highlighted in image.
46890


If that is the case why would they sell a hub without it? The hub would come apart, no?


This is what I am referring to, yes. It is not always included with hubs ordered from other sources, in fact I haven't found a source or P/N that includes it other than from Mopar (although there may be one I'm not aware of).

A solution would be to remove them axle stub from the OEM hub and install onto the aftermarket one. This isn't straight forward as the threads are crimped. I have been successful removing them and reinstalling using a nut lock like is done on the rear through a drilled hole.

46891

[Old School]

These must be a different design then what I'm familiar with. I've had both a Ram 1500 2wd and Jeep Liberty 2wd that had front bearing hubs that were splined inside, but no axle stub.

I assume they are there just to hold the ABS ring.