View Full Version : Enclosed car hauler
dorfschon
03-16-2014, 12:02 PM
Any ideas on purchasing an enclosed car hauler? I know I'd like a tailgate able to accept 4" ground clearance, a left side door to enter and exit the car at the drivers door and E tracking under the tires to tie down the car with wheel bonnet type straps, also aluminum framing would be great. It just doesn't look like there are any stock car haulers with these options.
VRYALT3R3D
03-16-2014, 12:30 PM
https://www.trailex.com/CTE-84180.cfm
Jack B
03-16-2014, 01:49 PM
I believe you are better off using the oem frame T-slots. You can then add adjustable tie-down rails on the floor.
05Commemorative
03-16-2014, 04:59 PM
completely agree.
dorfschon
03-17-2014, 06:20 AM
Thanks for the information, I'll have to find out about those.
pastohio
03-17-2014, 08:15 AM
The left side door is usually hard to use, and the car usually needs to be raised in the trailer to open the door anyway to clear the interior wheel box.....I found most of the time I had to load the car by myself (alone ) and therefore I believe the best thing is a winch mounted in the front of the trailer and load by walking along side the vehicle...also don't have to climb in and out of the driver's seat...my $.02
IndyRon
03-17-2014, 09:40 AM
The left side door is usually hard to use, and the car usually needs to be raised in the trailer to open the door anyway to clear the interior wheel box.....I found most of the time I had to load the car by myself (alone ) and therefore I believe the best thing is a winch mounted in the front of the trailer and load by walking along side the vehicle...also don't have to climb in and out of the driver's seat...my $.02
You bring up a good point. Do you (or anyone else) know if the front tow hooks that we buy from IPSCO or others are strong enough to use for pulling a viper up on a trailer? I'm thinking probably not, since many are made of aluminum and assume they are just for pulling a vehicle on level ground. Getting under a lowered ACR is no easy task.
ACR Steve
03-17-2014, 09:44 AM
I tow my race car and the Viper all the time use the e-track with the idler fitting then over the tires it’s the best there is . Even the new cross country exotic car haulers are using it. No load on suspension and the car never moves.
http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/category/ETrack
ACRucrazy
03-17-2014, 09:55 AM
I tow my race car and the Viper all the time use the e-track with the idler fitting then over the tires it’s the best there is . Even the new cross country exotic car haulers are using it. No load on suspension and the car never moves.
http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/category/ETrack
Just used those for the first time helping a friend load an ACR-X. I was impressed! Thats the way I would go for sure.
TrackAire
03-17-2014, 05:51 PM
You bring up a good point. Do you (or anyone else) know if the front tow hooks that we buy from IPSCO or others are strong enough to use for pulling a viper up on a trailer? I'm thinking probably not, since many are made of aluminum and assume they are just for pulling a vehicle on level ground. Getting under a lowered ACR is no easy task.
I use the IPSCO units to pull my car in and out of the trailer...but, I run two units and connect them with a short strap which my winch hook attaches to. I have no doubt that one would do it, but I use two since my winch is center mounted in the trailer. By pulling from the center of the car, the car steers itself into the trailer perfectly (leave the steering wheel unlocked as you do this). I was concerned that pulling "off center" may cause the car veer off track and require adjustments by me during the loading process. I've loaded and unloaded my Viper multiple times by myself, never an issue or drama. Since I usually do this by myself, I have the front of the trailer way high to ease the angle of the ramp and when unloading the car rolls out on its own weight....the IPSCO tow rings have never moved or given me a cause for concern.
To the other questions:
I've used both the E-track and the hooks to the frame rail holes. Both will work but I went with the R hooks for the front with double "O-rings" welded to them. This allows my tie down strap to literally be flat on the floor. This will clear even the lowest front splitter. I built a 1.5" rubber pad that each of the front tires end up on. This raises the vehicle and allows me to reach under the front of the car to connect the strap hook or unhook in about 30 seconds for both sides (my car is very low in cruising mode).
Now that I've used the E-track system I prefer strapping the frame down. Getting the tire straps over the tires is a bit cumbersome in an enclosed trailer. In an open top trailer, the E-track system would be easier. The tie down straps and tie down location I use puts minimal downward pressure on the cars suspension since the angles are so mild (mainly pulling the car forward and rearward).
Even if you get a trailer with a drivers side escape door, buy a winch to pull it in and out. Much, much easier if you're by yourself and you have total control of the process (especially with a wireless remote in your hand)
We use our trailer at the track as a place to sit, relax, eat, stay cool or warm (a/c and heat) get out of the wind, re-charge track timers, change clothes, etc. If you plan on doing the same, forget the short trailers that you cannot stand up comfortably in.....been there, done that. Screw fuel mileage, you only live once so enjoy yourself standing upright while working in and around your trailer!!
Good luck,
George
dorfschon
03-17-2014, 07:49 PM
I'm going to look into the winch load, sounds like a nice way to eliminate the need for a left side door on the hauler, obviously you still would have to leave the window open, reach in to engage and release the emergency brake, right?
TrackAire
03-17-2014, 08:51 PM
I'm going to look into the winch load, sounds like a nice way to eliminate the need for a left side door on the hauler, obviously you still would have to leave the window open, reach in to engage and release the emergency brake, right?
Yes to leaving the window open without a left side trailer door to engage or release the emergency brake. There is no real disadvantage to having a left side door other than the increase cost. If available, I would definitely get it....you can never have too many options:dude3:
I don't have one in my trailer because I bought it that way, but I'd love to have one. Would be great if I needed quick access to something inside the car while traveling, etc. Less chances of scratching the car when trying to squeeze between the trailer wall and the car, especially for us "plus size" drivers.
Cheers,
George
I Bin Therbefor
03-17-2014, 09:08 PM
https://www.bre2.net/pdfs/bre2_aerovault_brochure_2011_11_27.
I don't have one but I've beeen very impressed with this one.
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