SLP
05-21-2020, 11:52 AM
Goal: Removing the driver's side cylinder head with head studs and front timing cover in place.
Situation: I am using ARP head studs instead of factory head bolts. The head studs do not have a keyway of any sort on the top so removing the inner studs while the head is still on the block is near impossible since there's not enough room to use the double nut/castle nut method. When lifting the cylinder head straight up off the studs (not pictured), the cylinder head's most forward inner corner (where the green arrow would be) hits the backside of the thermostat housing (red arrow) after lifting it up an inch. I don't want to remove the front timing cover because that's quite the process.
Ideas: 1) Has anyone ground down the back of the thermostat housing enough to allow the cylinder head to come straight off with the studs/housing still in place? or, 2) Does anyone know of a good tool/way to remove flat topped head studs in narrow passages?
43570
Situation: I am using ARP head studs instead of factory head bolts. The head studs do not have a keyway of any sort on the top so removing the inner studs while the head is still on the block is near impossible since there's not enough room to use the double nut/castle nut method. When lifting the cylinder head straight up off the studs (not pictured), the cylinder head's most forward inner corner (where the green arrow would be) hits the backside of the thermostat housing (red arrow) after lifting it up an inch. I don't want to remove the front timing cover because that's quite the process.
Ideas: 1) Has anyone ground down the back of the thermostat housing enough to allow the cylinder head to come straight off with the studs/housing still in place? or, 2) Does anyone know of a good tool/way to remove flat topped head studs in narrow passages?
43570