Jack B
03-10-2014, 01:02 AM
I did not like the feel of oem clutch when the slicks were mounted so I decided to install the Bad Boyzz Garage clutch. While I had the trans out I also decided to swap the G5 trans for a a G4 trans. The reason being, I did not like the extremely high first gear ratio in the Gen V trans. If you do not drag race, the oem ratio is fine, it is just not conductive to drag racing. Here are some of the insights and tools needed:
1. An impact tool makes the removal of flywheel bolts a lot easier.
2. You will need a female torx socket to remove the oem clutch plate, Nineball warned me about this before I started the removal. These sockets are also referred to as "E" type sockets.
3. You will also need a 3/4" crowsfoot wrench to remove the lower shifter shaft, see pic below.
4. You will need some locktite red when you reinstall the flywheel and the clutch plate.
5. A clutch alignment tool or an old input shaft is needed to align the twin disk clutch. You can use a T56 input shaft, however, you will need to grind the area near the end of the spline so that you can insert the tool all the way into the pilot bearing. The spline on the 6060 is longer than the T56.
6. A word of caution, the Gen IV trans has a stamped shifter. The GenV has a billet shifter that was used on the comp coup. You have to swap these to make the installation work. The Gen IV stamped shifter is taller and I was concerned about interference in the tunnel. Here is a picture of the two:
3696
There has been a quiet debate on why the Gen V seems to shift better than the Gen IV trans. They are the virtually the same transmissions so they should shift the same. Maybe the billet shifter on the Gen V is the reason the Gen V seems smoother.
7. The following picture shows the tail shaft housing on the Gen Iv transmission. There are two items of interest. The donut on the shaft allows you to fill the trans with fluid prior to installation. The donut is pushed forward to keep the shaft oil tight. If you do not have the donut, you will have to fill the trans after it is in the car. That donut is a separate part that must be ordered and that might not be easy.
The second item is the tapped hole in the right ear, although not visible, there is a tapped hole in the left ear also. These holes must be drilled and tapped to accept the Gen V trans mount.
3697
This is the T56 input shaft modified for use on the 6060
3698
The picture below is a close-up of the lock that has to be remove to free the slave cylinder hydraulic line.
3699
Unlike the Gen II, in the Gen V you do not have to remove the console to remove the trans, however, you do need a crowsfoot wrench, the picture is below.
3700
For information sake, both weights are without the shifter and slave cylinder.:
T56 = 119.5 lbs
T6060 = 126 lbs
One last item, the Gen 4/5 have brass syncro's, when Mopar changed to the brass syncro's it was supposed to be an upgrade, however, for those that race, they have found out it is the opposite, the carbon/kevlar syncro's shift far better, I upgraded this trans to the carbon units.
1. An impact tool makes the removal of flywheel bolts a lot easier.
2. You will need a female torx socket to remove the oem clutch plate, Nineball warned me about this before I started the removal. These sockets are also referred to as "E" type sockets.
3. You will also need a 3/4" crowsfoot wrench to remove the lower shifter shaft, see pic below.
4. You will need some locktite red when you reinstall the flywheel and the clutch plate.
5. A clutch alignment tool or an old input shaft is needed to align the twin disk clutch. You can use a T56 input shaft, however, you will need to grind the area near the end of the spline so that you can insert the tool all the way into the pilot bearing. The spline on the 6060 is longer than the T56.
6. A word of caution, the Gen IV trans has a stamped shifter. The GenV has a billet shifter that was used on the comp coup. You have to swap these to make the installation work. The Gen IV stamped shifter is taller and I was concerned about interference in the tunnel. Here is a picture of the two:
3696
There has been a quiet debate on why the Gen V seems to shift better than the Gen IV trans. They are the virtually the same transmissions so they should shift the same. Maybe the billet shifter on the Gen V is the reason the Gen V seems smoother.
7. The following picture shows the tail shaft housing on the Gen Iv transmission. There are two items of interest. The donut on the shaft allows you to fill the trans with fluid prior to installation. The donut is pushed forward to keep the shaft oil tight. If you do not have the donut, you will have to fill the trans after it is in the car. That donut is a separate part that must be ordered and that might not be easy.
The second item is the tapped hole in the right ear, although not visible, there is a tapped hole in the left ear also. These holes must be drilled and tapped to accept the Gen V trans mount.
3697
This is the T56 input shaft modified for use on the 6060
3698
The picture below is a close-up of the lock that has to be remove to free the slave cylinder hydraulic line.
3699
Unlike the Gen II, in the Gen V you do not have to remove the console to remove the trans, however, you do need a crowsfoot wrench, the picture is below.
3700
For information sake, both weights are without the shifter and slave cylinder.:
T56 = 119.5 lbs
T6060 = 126 lbs
One last item, the Gen 4/5 have brass syncro's, when Mopar changed to the brass syncro's it was supposed to be an upgrade, however, for those that race, they have found out it is the opposite, the carbon/kevlar syncro's shift far better, I upgraded this trans to the carbon units.