Fuel gauge sending unit discontinued

[vocaro]

Hi,

The fuel gauge on my 1994 Viper is giving bad readings, and my mechanic said it needs a new fuel sending unit. Looks like it's part number 4723104 but it's out of stock everywhere we've looked. Anyone know where I can find it, or if there's an alternate part that's compatible with my '94?

Thanks

[dave6666]

Scharf.

[vocaro]

"No results." :(

https://www.donscharfautomotive.com/used-parts/DODGE/VIPER/FUEL_SENDING_UNIT/1994/?k=1

[lane_viper]

Not sure if this helps but...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Viper-fuel-basket-and-pump-NEW-NEVER-USED-1996/163786256973?hash=item26226bf24d:g:ACUAAOSwolpcMPR f

I don't know if a 96 would work for a 94. Is it possible to retrofit?

Also may contact X2 Builders. looks like they have a 94 they are parting out.

https://www.x2builders.com/gallery.asp?page_id=item&id=1056

[lmn]

Have you reached out to Jon B. ?

[dave6666]

"No results." :(

https://www.donscharfautomotive.com/used-parts/DODGE/VIPER/FUEL_SENDING_UNIT/1994/?k=1

I would contact them directly. They have a lot of stuff that is not listed using their search engine.

[AZTVR]

"No results." :(

https://www.donscharfautomotive.com/used-parts/DODGE/VIPER/FUEL_SENDING_UNIT/1994/?k=1


I would contact them directly. They have a lot of stuff that is not listed using their search engine.

As Dave indicates, these places that have used Viper parts (and NOS parts) don't have the time and manpower to list every single item they have in stock, and get stuff in quite often. Don't rely solely on internet web page listings when shopping parts from many of the site sponsors.
and Jon B referred to above is Jon at viperpartsrack.com

[MH60M]

Yup...same as above. Call the used viper parts shops....that can't be named here because they are not site sponsors.

[Dan Cragin]

There is sending unit for the first year Dakota that will work. You need to change over the arm. I will try to find the part number.

[Coloviper]

You have the right part number as here is the pics and info: https://www.mymoparparts.com/v-1994-dodge-viper--base--8-0l-v10-gas/fuel-system--fuel-system-components

Mopar store says they have them available for a 95 Viper (same part number) but call them as you might be placing an order on backorder for ever.

https://store.mopar.com/1995-dodge-viper-base-gas_8.0_v_10-transmission_standard_6-fuel_system-fuel_system_components-fuel_gauge_sending_unit_4723104-item/

Hope it helps!

[XSnake]

They are discontinued but vintage parts still had some a little over a month ago. Any dealer can order from Vintage.

[Dan Cragin]

I checked and the part has been discontinued. A sending unit for a 89 Dodge Ramcharger will work if you change the float arm, but those are getting scarce and can only be found on E-Bay.

[BadAndy]

Same situation here, for quite a while. Fill up, set trip odometer. Refuel every 200 miles. Feel's like I'm in the 80's again. Nostalgia.

[dave6666]

Refuel every 200 miles.

Damn. We need to upgrade you to the 6 mpg club with a blower. New set-point of 100 miles.

[Lalmeida617]

I have a sending unit question. When you fill the tank I assume the float is at its highest point. Would this position put more stress on the sending unit arm then say 1/2 full. Would one store the car maybe 1/4 or 1/2 full to TRY to maybe avoid stressing and breakage of this part?

[Cap'n Hook]

200 miles? I used to refill at around 137 miles! :D

[lmn]

It don't stay full for long...

[GTS Dean]

Let's get this one going again with some photos and commentary.

My 96 GTS has not had a working fuel gauge in about 7 or 8 years. The culprit is wear on the rather delicate resistor wires from the float being bounced around the tank under hard cornering, bad bumps, or accel/decel. I'm now trying to figure out what other Dodge vehicles might match up with this hard-to-find part. The simple fact appears that there are 2 basic wiring connectors across many vehicles of the period: a 4-wire flat spade connector, or a 5-wire round pin connector. The outer pins are for power and ground to the electric fuel pump in the basket in all cases. The inner pins connect to the variable resistor that the float arm attaches to. If you have 2 flat middle pins, they only send a signal to the gauge for level. If you have 3 pins, 2 are for level, and one is for the Low Fuel Indicator light.

If your pump is still working like mine, all we need is the correct donor resistor to connect up and snap into place. I don't see any problem with using a 3-wire resistor and only using the 2 wires that run full scale. The most important question is: who's brand of resistor is a true snap-in replacement? If there are any Team Viper or Chrysler engineers around, they might be able to share who the OEM fuel module supplier was. Failing that, I'm going to have to ask some favors from my NAPA regional warehouse to see if I can wander their aisles and eyeball a few likely candidates. Wish me luck!

FYI, most of these pics are screen grabs from some eBay searches. It looks like a '97-'99 Dakota unit might be the ticket for those of us with the 4-pin setups.

[GTS Dean]

These photos show the 5-pin plug and 3-wire resistor. If you study the printed circuit, you'll see that the blue wire connects to the variable resistor, the yellow wire is the ground for the float arm signal, and the black wire is soldered to the trace that makes the low fuel light come on when the wiper arm touches both the black and yellow traces.

[GTS Dean]

This may turn out to be a no-splice repair!

[GTS Dean]

Final update:

I ordered both a 98 Viper and a 98 Dakota (15gal) replacement float, sender and fuel module seal kit and I was willing to pay a modest restocking fee to know for sure. Contrary to popular rumor, they are still available - at least for now. Both came from Chrysler's Vintage Parts depot. Short story - they both look practically the same except for the color of the leads. One costs 4x as much as the other one - $140 vs $40. The Dakota's Ohm resistance from E to 1/2 to F was 223-123-21. The Viper's was 103-44-4.4. The service manual's values are 102-42-4. The Dakota piece may plug in and work, but it will not synch accurately with the Viper's gauge without some electronic massaging in between.

Once you've gotten the module out, the underside connector looks like photo #3. The green part is the terminal lock which has 2 locking tabs on the backside to keep it snapped tight. It's pretty difficult to spread them open, hold the connector housing and pull the green lock out with pliers all at the same time. Dan Lesser's tip was to make sure everything was completely dry of fuel, then use a heat gun set on medium to gently expand and loosen the parts. I grabbed the center green rectangle (C12), then pulled & jiggled steadily until the lock slid loose.

Going back together was pretty easy - just pay attention to which wires are signal and ground. Ground goes next to the black wire, signal goes by the red wire. The metal connectors have to be installed right side up to be sure they slip into the housing correctly before inserting the green lock.

44188

44189

[AZTVR]

The Dakota piece may plug in and work, but it will not synch accurately with the Viper's gauge without some electronic massaging in between.
And for other folk who may find this after the OEM is no longer available, there are several electronic modules on the market to do the conversion for you. Mainly aimed at the aftermarket gauge market. Google something like: fuel level gauge interface

I have one for a vintage car to solve a similar issue.

[Coloviper]

Geez, I feel like we were just transported to Cuba! Going to be keeping our cars together with duct-tape and bailer twine. Damn near every Viper pre-1998 is going to have the fuel pump module, little back flow valve, etc., etc. fail because they really are POS. Got to be able to get replacement parts or these will die.

[goggles Pizano]

Dean, what failed on yours? It might be repairable but need to see it.

Plus the relationship between the 2 is not linear so you can't just add a resistor in parallel. but you can try a 188ohm resistor.

Plus go get a 1996 Dakota unit. It is 102-?-4.
the 1995 dakota unit is 102-?-5.
the 1997 dodge B1500, B2500, B3500 is 102-?-5.
1995, 1996, 1997 ram 1500, 2500, 3500 is 110-?-3
they are more but I need to research them

They is an option to go with a separate sending unit too.

[Lalmeida617]

Mr. Dan Cragin sells or used to sell just the fuel pressure regulator.

[GTS Dean]

goggles - My first photo attachment shows the defective reistor. I Ohm'd out the variable resistor side between the 2 strips and most of it read ~0.67 except for one small segment that was around 26 Ohms. Other than having access to a number of shop manuals of the period, inquiring minds would like to know how you determined how many models have the same resistance values?

Frankly, the hardest steps of the whole operation centered around R & R of the fuel module. Getting the vent hose off the module elbow was a major bitch. I ended up prying it loose from everywhere I could insert a very small screwdriver to unlock it from the barbs. Once it was out, the elbow was somewhat deformed. I found a socket that was pretty much exactly the size of the elbow ID, pressed it in a-ways, then used the heat gun to form it back round.

The kit will include a new gasket for the tank neck. I'm sure there's a recommended procedure, but I had quite a time getting it all back in properly. What I ended up doing was wiping a little clean engine oil on both the inner neck surface and the gasket outer surface, then left the gasket down from the module top flange about 3/4". I carefully worked the float arm and module down into the tank and oriented all the top fittings reasonably close to the hose and wire connections (they all swivel a bit on the housing top).

You really have to be careful about getting 360* gasket insertion into the neck before pressing straight down while twisting the module l-r about 20* each way. The module lower section is spring loaded and it will try to push itself back out if you don't hold it steady. Then, work the threaded outer ring over the connector fittings and press down firmly while engaging the threads. A firm grip wearing a good pair of mechanic's gloves will help you screw it down good and tight. Last step is swiveling the connectors and reconnecting the 4 plugs/hoses and buttoning everything back up. This is also a great time to replace the fuel filter ahead of the rear diff.

[goggles Pizano]

Yes I could tell the defective rheostat panel in your pictures. Was assuming shorted leads as that is the major failure of the panels but could have been open/broken circuit; hence, why I asked.

Just something I have access too and as long as they don't change the data fields. There are probably more models but that was just a quick search of Dodge models. I hate it when data was there previously but then they deemed it not needed and they remove it.

I have in the past been able to clean them up and adjust the wiper until I could get a new one and sometimes didn't need a new. But then again it wasn't for something that was a pain to R&R. All were bench top repairs that were complete in under a hour.

[USAFPILOT]

i am getting bad readings on the fuel gauge. What is the best current remedy? I see the Viper store offers to rebuild the fuel sending unit. $$$

[dave6666]

Use the trip odometer to gauge distance driven. I went through a period where the float arm design wouldn't work with the fuel module and did that. Filled up about every 100 miles. Easy to reset the trip meter. Regarding long term solutions call one of the many Viper wrecking yards. You're going to have to pull the fuel module or dash in any case.

[Dan Cragin]

I am able to rebuild these fuel pump modules completely now. This includes new pump, pump basket, pre filter, post filter, plastic fuel line, clamps, regulator and gas gauge sending unit.
I need to reuse your sending unit arm and float if possible, but have a replacement which will make the gauge read empty a little sooner. If the module is to damaged I can graft a later model
module to the old top, but its a bit of work. Price runs about $860 for everything. Biggest expense is the sending units and regulators which are no longer available through Dodge.

[Steve-Indy]

Dan, thank you for posting this info. I am sure that all Gen I owners will find this a great comfort as these cars are aging and OEM units are beginning to fail.

[USAFPILOT]

So Dan,

I just need to Remove mine and send to you? You send it back like new? Do you happen to have a great set of instructions or video explaining how to get it out?

Thanks

[Dan Cragin]

I can get the sending units now. I also can do complete fuel pump module rebuilds if needed. 1992-2002

Dan