Great Tip for Checking G1 2 Coolant known problem

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Fellow G1-2 Owners.

I hope you learned early-on that the hidden coolant overflow bottle inside your front fascia needs attention! If it runs low, it will break your siphon from the wheel-well surge tank, and introduce air into your motor. Not Goood........Runs Hot.

The Bottle has a cumbersome inspection port in a dirty wheel-wheel. The alternative of removing the 5" rubber grommet, and thunking the bottle or using a small mirror is annoying........UNTIL NOW !!


-Cock the tire aside, and remove the grommet.

--Take your handy-dandy cellphone, and turn on the camera-flash.

---Stick your cell-camera inside and shoot a short video, or several photos!

----Be sure to film/inspect the base of the bottle for pooling, or cracking / emptiness.

-----Go inside, pop a beer, and inspect the films/pix! Re-Fill accordingly. (Coolant and beer.)


------ BE COOL...............

[Viper98]

Hey JonB, excellent idea...........

on both!

[Robertk]

Not sure this is the place to ask this question but after reading initial post I checked my front facia overflow bottle... it was low, maybe about an inch of coolant in the bottom and best I can tell just a touch below "low" line, I used a baster to add from pressure tank tube and added about 2 cups or so of 50/50 mixture, again can't see the "low" and "high" lines but I know I'm between the lines seeing pretty clearly through wheel well inspection hole, my pressure tank is about an inch below base of neck... should I fill that tank higher? closer to the base of the neck? I don't have cooling issues but we haven't hit 100s plus either

[dave6666]

Here's what it should look like with a flashlight:

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Here's how you fill it:

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Put a Corbin clamp on that line to keep you from getting air in your system when the engine cools. Where the green arrow is.

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Here's what the coolant overflow bottle looks like with the fascia off. It's easier to see in a clean one so if you take the fascia off clean that part. As well as your radiator.

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[dave6666]

Not sure this is the place to ask this question but after reading initial post I checked my front facia overflow bottle... it was low, maybe about an inch of coolant in the bottom and best I can tell just a touch below "low" line, I used a baster to add from pressure tank tube and added about 2 cups or so of 50/50 mixture, again can't see the "low" and "high" lines but I know I'm between the lines seeing pretty clearly through wheel well inspection hole, my pressure tank is about an inch below base of neck... should I fill that tank higher? closer to the base of the neck? I don't have cooling issues but we haven't hit 100s plus either

If you can't see a level in your tank see my post above about it being clean inside.

If you take the cap off the pressure tank and can add more coolant, do so.

If you don't have a clamp on the hose from the overflow tank to the pressure tank put one there. See my post above.

Gen 2 cooling systems are not rocket science to have a cool running car in 110+ temps. I drive mine all the time in those temps.

[dave6666]

Some more Gen 2 cooling advice.

Water Wetter is junk.

The correct coolant is Mopar HOAT Orange.

If you have to burp a Gen 2 cooling system there is something else wrong with the car. I've filled and drained lots of these cars and never burped one.

The thermostat does not cool the engine whatsoever. Please do not put a lower temp stat on there thinking it will make your car run cooler than the current stat that it won't even run at.

Your radiator is likely fouled internally and externally. It's just a matter of how badly. Even when you have good temps. It just happens. When reaching the conclusion that the car won't run cool any more addressing that matter should be a #1 priority.

Coolant flushes won't remove scale that your car will get. I consider them generally to be a waste of time.

That factory constant tension hose clamps work remarkably well. If your hose is leaking it ain't the clamp. The hose needs replacing. However, silicone hoses do require worm drive clamps.

The Roe duct is an effective mod at 30 mph and above. Does not add cooling benefit when the car is not moving.

Pull the block drains some time to drain the crap from the block. They come out easily.

If you fear the radiator end tank drain plug not coming out pull the lower hose to drain the radiator. I've never had one twist off but some have.

[Robertk]

If you can't see a level in your tank see my post above about it being clean inside.

If you take the cap off the pressure tank and can add more coolant, do so.

If you don't have a clamp on the hose from the overflow tank to the pressure tank put one there. See my post above.

Gen 2 cooling systems are not rocket science to have a cool running car in 110+ temps. I drive mine all the time in those temps.
Great and thanks so much... facia tank and coolant are actually very clean, I just can't see the level lines from the hole but quite sure now based on all the pics available I am at a good level, adding a little coolant to the pressure tank now and gonna add the clamp on overflow line as well, thanks again

[Fatboy 18]

Just remember to not let go of the phone or torch you are using ;)

[DRM1125R]

Thanks for the tip

[ViperRyan]

I'll have to check mine when I take it out of storage!

[01sapphirebob]

Thanks for the helpful tips everyone! It's time to do all my fluids again so it's always nice to have helpful reminders.

[Fatboy 18]

There are actually high and low marks on the coolant tank but why they put them on the front of the tank where you cant read them beats me?
I painted mine up when I had the fascia off :)

https://live.staticflickr.com/7839/46862942084_4caf244b23_c.jpg

[Robertk]

There are actually high and low marks on the coolant tank but why they put them on the front of the tank where you cant read them beats me?
I painted mine up when I had the fascia off :)

https://live.staticflickr.com/7839/46862942084_4caf244b23_c.jpg

Great idea... gonna do just that

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

The bottle came from another car, an Intrepid or LeBaron I think.

THERE ARE RAISED Min-Max MARKS on the inner fender liner, alongside the inspection port that D6 has illuminated above.

Lots of G1-2s doget air in the motor from improper checking of the surge-tank-ONLY. Keep That Puppy FULL!

[ViperSRT]

The bottle came from another car, an Intrepid or LeBaron I think.

THERE ARE RAISED Min-Max MARKS on the inner fender liner, alongside the inspection port that D6 has illuminated above.

Lots of G1-2s doget air in the motor from improper checking of the surge-tank-ONLY. Keep That Puppy FULL!

And watch out that a screw doesn't puncture it. Don't ask me how I know.

[Fatboy 18]

The bottle came from another car, an Intrepid or LeBaron I think.

THERE ARE RAISED Min-Max MARKS on the inner fender liner, alongside the inspection port that D6 has illuminated above.

Lots of G1-2s doget air in the motor from improper checking of the surge-tank-ONLY. Keep That Puppy FULL!

Ha Ha, that figures, I keep forgetting this Awesome car came from Chrysler Dodge :D

[Lemay88]

So, where should the level be in the lower bottle when cold and when hot??

[dave6666]

So, where should the level be in the lower bottle when cold and when hot??

There are marks on the core support that you are looking through. They are accurate.

[Bill W]

So, where should the level be in the lower bottle when cold and when hot??

From the owners manual

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[LifeIsGood]

Well damn, I want to contribute...

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[Lemay88]

There are marks on the core support that you are looking through. They are accurate.
I noticed that, I check mine regularly and notice that the level is different from cold to warm.
Level is lower when hot and higher when cold.
Is it normal??