Looking for passenger side coolant hard line

[Boosted Motorsports]

Anyone have one kicking around or know where I can find one? Its the black hard pipe that runs just about the exhaust manifolds and mounts to the passenger valve cover. Mine is corroded and dripping where it meets the rubber line that runs to the thermostat housing.

Not sure what the official name is or part number as I start locating one but maybe someone has one kicking around

[SNKEBIT]

Try Scharf. Or, you could look at yours closer, might just need a clean up and recoating.

[dave6666]

1) you probably need a new hose.

2) be sure and use the OEM constant tension hose clamps. Putting worm drive screw clamps there - the redneck upgrade - is a stupid mod because when the factory constant tension clamp no longer keeps the fluid in, it's not the clamp. The hose is worn out.

3) Mitch is right as well. Clean and repaint, but replace the hose too. I have all those part numbers sorted if they get confusing. The parts manuals suck.

[Boosted Motorsports]

Thanks guys. Yeah Dave thats actually what caused this whole wild goose chase is that rubber hose was dry rotted between the hard pipe and thermostat housing and weeping a bit at the thermostat. Replaced that heater hose and the hard pipe was all rotted and rough on the bottom. I tried cleaning it up with some sandpaper on the outside before re-assembly but still dripping. Maybe I'll take it off and see if I can clean it up better and smooth over the corroded part that is allowing coolant to get past.

[dave6666]

There are a few additional redneck responses to helping with that, including the worm drive hose clamp mod.

If the metal tube is still solid, but just pitted, cleaning it good with sandpaper to clean and roughen it, then build it back with JB Weld - not the 5 minutes stuff - and then finally sand it back down and paint, should fix that. It's just real important to get a good prep - sandpaper preferred, not wire brush - and then allow adequate cure time for the JB Weld. Like a full 24 hrs. I just did some cooling system work on my car and when I did I cleaned and repainted the ends. Fortunately I still had good metal.

If you don't want to do that and the factory constant tension spring clamp won't hold, then yes, a worm drive clamp is a suitable answer. It will eventually just squish the hose out because they get too tight. Might want to stock up on that hose before they are discontinued.

They actually make worm drive constant tension clamps. The Murray ones are a factory clamp from Am General on my H1 radiator hoses. Pricey but they work well.

http://www.breezehoseclamps.com/breeze/constant-torque/

https://www.murraycorp.com/clamp/constant-tension/constant-tension-turbo-seal-clamps-tss/

https://www.murraycorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/tss.pdf

[C5Longhorn]

Thanks guys. Yeah Dave thats actually what caused this whole wild goose chase is that rubber hose was dry rotted between the hard pipe and thermostat housing and weeping a bit at the thermostat. Replaced that heater hose and the hard pipe was all rotted and rough on the bottom. I tried cleaning it up with some sandpaper on the outside before re-assembly but still dripping. Maybe I'll take it off and see if I can clean it up better and smooth over the corroded part that is allowing coolant to get past.

Made for a good video though. I have to pull my intake to get it repainted or coated along with my valve covers.

[Boosted Motorsports]

There are a few additional redneck responses to helping with that, including the worm drive hose clamp mod.

If the metal tube is still solid, but just pitted, cleaning it good with sandpaper to clean and roughen it, then build it back with JB Weld - not the 5 minutes stuff - and then finally sand it back down and paint, should fix that. It's just real important to get a good prep - sandpaper preferred, not wire brush - and then allow adequate cure time for the JB Weld. Like a full 24 hrs. I just did some cooling system work on my car and when I did I cleaned and repainted the ends. Fortunately I still had good metal.

If you don't want to do that and the factory constant tension spring clamp won't hold, then yes, a worm drive clamp is a suitable answer. It will eventually just squish the hose out because they get too tight. Might want to stock up on that hose before they are discontinued.

They actually make worm drive constant tension clamps. The Murray ones are a factory clamp from Am General on my H1 radiator hoses. Pricey but they work well.

http://www.breezehoseclamps.com/breeze/constant-torque/

https://www.murraycorp.com/clamp/constant-tension/constant-tension-turbo-seal-clamps-tss/

https://www.murraycorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/tss.pdf

Haha you read my mind as for a redneck solution. I was thinking of the same solution but isn't one anybody wants to admit they would do. Other option depending on how bad it is if I can't find a replacement is to chop off a the spout clean and tig weld a new steel one in place. That would be last resort. I feel like there has to be one kicking around somewhere that is laying in a box of parts someone has from a popped motor. I know everyone has one of those boxes full of random hoses and stuff from old engines.

Like you mentioned I do still have the stock clamp on there and could try a worm gear version. If things got desperate I could also try getting a longer 5/8 heater hose and pushing the hose past the normal seating point to try to get to clean metal to seat on.

[RyanLS.GEN2]

can you post a picture of yours? there are several different styles, but we have some at scharfs. the bends on the ends vary

[Boosted Motorsports]

37262
37263
37264

[Boosted Motorsports]

There are a few additional redneck responses to helping with that, including the worm drive hose clamp mod.

If the metal tube is still solid, but just pitted, cleaning it good with sandpaper to clean and roughen it, then build it back with JB Weld - not the 5 minutes stuff - and then finally sand it back down and paint, should fix that. It's just real important to get a good prep - sandpaper preferred, not wire brush - and then allow adequate cure time for the JB Weld. Like a full 24 hrs. I just did some cooling system work on my car and when I did I cleaned and repainted the ends. Fortunately I still had good metal.

If you don't want to do that and the factory constant tension spring clamp won't hold, then yes, a worm drive clamp is a suitable answer. It will eventually just squish the hose out because they get too tight. Might want to stock up on that hose before they are discontinued.

They actually make worm drive constant tension clamps. The Murray ones are a factory clamp from Am General on my H1 radiator hoses. Pricey but they work well.


I also did the JB weld attempt last night after cleaning them up. All 4 ends are heavily pitted and I removed all the corrosion down to shiny bare metal but you can see why it would never seal. I think it should do the trick for now and hold up until I find another hard line. I don't think I'll need to sand it. I used the ol spit and finger trick and made the JB weld super smooth. I'll post up tonight after its cured since last night as well as how it holds up

[Boosted Motorsports]

Just an update for anyone that comes across this issue the part number is awkwardly stamped on both brackets hidden behind the piping. There are two versions of this part but this one is mopar part # 5245458AC and still currently available

[dave6666]

I know that they took the earlier part and superseded it to the later part revision. At least once. Because someone ordered one new from Mopar and got the older shorter one. It did not fit at all.

Summary: shop wisely.