Steve M
12-23-2018, 10:21 PM
Bleeding the clutch hydraulics on a Gen 3/4 Viper is a large PITA - there is very little room to work in the tunnel, and it always ends up being a messy endeavor. If you ever have to have your transmission out for any reason (e.g. a clutch swap), it is well worth your time and money to install a remote bleeder line to replace the factory POS.
Below is a detailed description (with pictures, of course) of how I did it on mine during my Nth Moto Clutch install. There are many different ways to skin this cat, so keep that in mind.
Here's what you'll need:
https://i.ibb.co/XZyCPLK/Remote-Bleeder-1.jpg
- 48" of -3 brake line (you can use -4 line if you so desire)
- Heat wrap since you'll be running this by the exhaust back into the engine bay
- 10mm copper crush washer
- 10mm x 1.5 to -3AN brake line adapter (you'd need a -4AN adapter if you use a -4 line)
- Brake bleeder (I used a 10mm x 1.0)
I actually had a spare line laying around from a previous project. It was a -3AN female on one end, and a 10mm x 1.0 metric concave seat on the other end. The line included a speed bleeder, but I opted not to use it since I use a pressure bleeder for bleeding the clutch hydraulics. If you don't already have a spare line laying around like I did, here's what you can use for the list above:
- 48" of -3 brake line (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3) - you'll want part number 3-48-S-S
- 10mm x 1.0 female concave seat to -3AN adapter (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=4193) - this will be used for the bleeder end
- DEI 48" Titanium Protect-A-Sleeve (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010475)
- Copper crush washers (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-177101erl) - I keep a ton of these on hand since it is a very common size for most cars
- 10mm x 1.5 to -3AN brake line adapter (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM2966) - you can get cheaper versions of this part, but Aeroquip is known for making high quality stuff
- 10mm x 1.0 brake bleeder (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-220-6069)
Here's a closeup of the Aeroquip adapter fitting with crush washer compared to the factory slave bleeder:
https://i.ibb.co/3cZs3jz/Remote-Bleeder-2.jpg
And one of the Wilwood bleeder, which is actually two parts:
https://i.ibb.co/cFHZgQD/Remote-Bleeder-3.jpg
Putting everything together is pretty straightforward. Anything that goes into the bell housing I used red loctite on - the last thing you want is any of those fittings coming loose, because that will mean you'll be pulling the transmission all over again to fix it (not to mention that it will probably be a ride home on a trailer). Here's the line ready to install:
https://i.ibb.co/GdMcZvs/Remote-Bleeder-4.jpg
And actually installed on the slave cylinder:
https://i.ibb.co/QJgLzn5/Remote-Bleeder-5.jpg
Here's a close up shot of the line going into the slave cylinder with the crush washer:
https://i.ibb.co/RQKXvLH/Remote-Bleeder-6.jpg
And with the slave cylinder installed on the transmission:
https://i.ibb.co/C6y1NwX/Remote-Bleeder-7.jpg
The line from the master cylinder connects to the bottom, the bleeder goes out the top.
I still need to grab a picture of where the bleeder ended up in the engine bay, but the 48" of line gives you enough length to put the bleeder right next to the clutch master cylinder reservoir. It is extremely convenient to get to in this spot.
This mod has been around for a long time, so this clearly isn't breaking any new ground, but I just wanted to provide some pics I took to give you an idea of how everything installs, along with a basic parts list if you want to put one together yourself. The important parts to note are that you need 48" of brake hose to do this, and that the threads going into the slave cylinder are 10mm x 1.5 so you can source the appropriate adapter fitting.
Below is a detailed description (with pictures, of course) of how I did it on mine during my Nth Moto Clutch install. There are many different ways to skin this cat, so keep that in mind.
Here's what you'll need:
https://i.ibb.co/XZyCPLK/Remote-Bleeder-1.jpg
- 48" of -3 brake line (you can use -4 line if you so desire)
- Heat wrap since you'll be running this by the exhaust back into the engine bay
- 10mm copper crush washer
- 10mm x 1.5 to -3AN brake line adapter (you'd need a -4AN adapter if you use a -4 line)
- Brake bleeder (I used a 10mm x 1.0)
I actually had a spare line laying around from a previous project. It was a -3AN female on one end, and a 10mm x 1.0 metric concave seat on the other end. The line included a speed bleeder, but I opted not to use it since I use a pressure bleeder for bleeding the clutch hydraulics. If you don't already have a spare line laying around like I did, here's what you can use for the list above:
- 48" of -3 brake line (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3) - you'll want part number 3-48-S-S
- 10mm x 1.0 female concave seat to -3AN adapter (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=4193) - this will be used for the bleeder end
- DEI 48" Titanium Protect-A-Sleeve (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010475)
- Copper crush washers (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-177101erl) - I keep a ton of these on hand since it is a very common size for most cars
- 10mm x 1.5 to -3AN brake line adapter (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM2966) - you can get cheaper versions of this part, but Aeroquip is known for making high quality stuff
- 10mm x 1.0 brake bleeder (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-220-6069)
Here's a closeup of the Aeroquip adapter fitting with crush washer compared to the factory slave bleeder:
https://i.ibb.co/3cZs3jz/Remote-Bleeder-2.jpg
And one of the Wilwood bleeder, which is actually two parts:
https://i.ibb.co/cFHZgQD/Remote-Bleeder-3.jpg
Putting everything together is pretty straightforward. Anything that goes into the bell housing I used red loctite on - the last thing you want is any of those fittings coming loose, because that will mean you'll be pulling the transmission all over again to fix it (not to mention that it will probably be a ride home on a trailer). Here's the line ready to install:
https://i.ibb.co/GdMcZvs/Remote-Bleeder-4.jpg
And actually installed on the slave cylinder:
https://i.ibb.co/QJgLzn5/Remote-Bleeder-5.jpg
Here's a close up shot of the line going into the slave cylinder with the crush washer:
https://i.ibb.co/RQKXvLH/Remote-Bleeder-6.jpg
And with the slave cylinder installed on the transmission:
https://i.ibb.co/C6y1NwX/Remote-Bleeder-7.jpg
The line from the master cylinder connects to the bottom, the bleeder goes out the top.
I still need to grab a picture of where the bleeder ended up in the engine bay, but the 48" of line gives you enough length to put the bleeder right next to the clutch master cylinder reservoir. It is extremely convenient to get to in this spot.
This mod has been around for a long time, so this clearly isn't breaking any new ground, but I just wanted to provide some pics I took to give you an idea of how everything installs, along with a basic parts list if you want to put one together yourself. The important parts to note are that you need 48" of brake hose to do this, and that the threads going into the slave cylinder are 10mm x 1.5 so you can source the appropriate adapter fitting.