Pinion Seal leaking

[LifeIsGood]

It looks to me like the pinion seal is leaking. I looked at my service manual and it calls for a couple of specialized tools. Anybody replaced their pinion seal? Did you actually need the specialized tools? Any recommendations? Thanks.

2001 RT/10

35850

35851

35853

[Fatboy 18]

Not the kind of Christmas present you wanted! :(

[LifeIsGood]

It doesn't seem to be a big deal. Just looking for a little help if anyone's familiar with it. Merry Christmas Mark!

[Fatboy 18]

And to you too Ken :)

You will have to remove the diff, so that will involve removing the loctite screws and caps, it is good practice to replace these, particularly the straps as they form to shape when tightened.
Also while you have the diff out its a good time to add a drain plug at the lowest part of the casing.

I have replaced a pinion yoke (part No2 in the diragram) that just required a pair of Circlip pliers and they slide straight out.

My Diff is currently in a local engineering shop waiting to be stripped down. I asked the company to strip down the diff carrier and then call me so I can inspect it.
As soon as they call me I will pop over there and ask about the pinion Yolk seal :)

I will report back :)
Happy Christmas.

[uvbnbit]

I had mine done years ago by "tech" at Dealership. They botched it. Over torqued the "crush sleeve/collapsible spacer" I think it's called. resulted in waaay premature bearing issues. They claim they didn't do it. Never got resolved with them. That dealership been closed for 10 years. Wonder why.

[mackzilla]

How many miles? While you have the driveshaft out I would have a drivetrain shop balance it and inspect the joints. Restrap it too for cheap insurance.

[LifeIsGood]

I had mine done years ago by "tech" at Dealership. They botched it. Over torqued the "crush sleeve/collapsible spacer" I think it's called. resulted in waaay premature bearing issues. They claim they didn't do it. Never got resolved with them. That dealership been closed for 10 years. Wonder why.

I'm wondering if there are other parts I need to replace while I'm in there, like the crush sleeve/collapsible spacer.

- - - Updated - - -


How many miles? While you have the driveshaft out I would have a drivetrain shop balance it and inspect the joints. Restrap it too for cheap insurance.

It's got around 25,000 miles.

[Steve M]

I'm wondering if there are other parts I need to replace while I'm in there, like the crush sleeve/collapsible spacer.

Crush sleeve has to be replaced anytime you remove it. Same with the straps that hold the driveshaft to the pinion yoke.

If you are going to the trouble of having all this done, it might make sense to do new bearings and the like...would also be the perfect time for a gear swap if you are so inclined.

[Boosted Motorsports]

Did you end up tackling this? I have a driver side axle seal leaking but haven't looked into it yet. Mark when you replaced your yolk was the C clip on the inside? Did it look like the seal could be easily removed/replaced without a complete tear down of the diff?

[LifeIsGood]

I just ordered the parts today. It seems pretty simple. Drain the fluid. Take the drive shaft loose from the differential. Check the torque on the pinion nut. Remove the pinion nut. Remove the pinion seal. Install the new pinion seal. Install the pinion nut to the correct torque + 5 in-lbs. Install the drive shaft with new straps and screws. Fill with fresh fluid/additive. Good to go.

I'll make any adjustments if something pops up.

[Fatboy 18]

Im still waiting for the company to start work on my diff, :( They have had it for over a month now :(

[RyanLS.GEN2]

you need a holding fixture to hold the yoke while you tighten the nut. you can also get a solid pinion spacer. it is a metal sleeve with a set of shims, you measure you crush sleeve, and then use the correct shim to reach that height then with the old style needle torque wrench you test the turning resistance to check it, then depending on too much or not enough swap shims until inspec. they are only 30-50$ depending on who's kit you use

[Boosted Motorsports]

Yeah I took a peak at my shop manual last night and it said to disconnect the half shafts and check the resistance with an old needle style torque wrench before removing the pinion nut to do the seal etc. The axle seals on the yolk's require the rear cover to come off to gain access to the C clip which means the diff has to be dropped also. Probably going to just swap my stock diff back in for now and deal with the seals on my 3.73 another time...

[98RedGTS]

Look whom came out from under their rock. Thought you may have got burnt out and sold your car. Probably better in a PM but I'd love to know how your liking your suspension changes now that they have been on a while.

[Boosted Motorsports]

Look whom came out from under their rock. Thought you may have got burnt out and sold your car. Probably better in a PM but I'd love to know how your liking your suspension changes now that they have been on a while.

I am a bit bored of the car now to be honest and on the verge of selling it and starting a new project but after refreshing pretty much every component on a 20 year old car I feel like I may regret it in a couple years after its gone. If someone wanted it though I would definitely consider letting it go lol.

[GTS Dean]

I just ordered the parts today. It seems pretty simple. Drain the fluid. Take the drive shaft loose from the differential. Check the torque on the pinion nut. Remove the pinion nut. Remove the pinion seal. Install the new pinion seal. Install the pinion nut to the correct torque + 5 in-lbs. Install the drive shaft with new straps and screws. Fill with fresh fluid/additive. Good to go.

I'll make any adjustments if something pops up.

I feel that people here are overthinking the process and the purpose of the crush sleeve. As I've always understood it, the sleeve serves to set preload on the pinion bearing, and provide some resistance to the pinion nut as it is torqued to spec. Just pull the nut, yoke, seal and sleeve. Replace the sleeve and seal with new items. Install the yoke and nut. Torquing the nut requires immobilizing the yoke. If you are doing it on a bench, or have the wheels in the air, you need a backup lever against the wrench torque. Not recommended, but this could be something as inelegant (yet just as effective) as a big pipe wrench on the yoke. If you have the car's weight on the wheels, then set parking brake and chock the tires before torquing the nut.

If you change the carrier bearings but not the pinion bearing, there shouldn't be a need to use any gauges, just do a grease pattern to confirm you have the gear lash correct. If the pinion comes out for a new bearing, or you change R&P, then you will need to shim to get your pinion depth and lash correct. This may require the use of a couple of crush sleeves to get it right.

Please correct me if I'm wrong here.

[RyanLS.GEN2]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JEGS-Performance-Products-81656-Pinion-Yoke-Wrench-Made-from-Heavy-Duty-Steel/111893912397?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

i had heard of alot of shops that replace a seal with out removing the pinion and changeing the crush sleeve, but it seems to be alittle luck, and being carefull not to over tighten. you should always use a new nut, the are normally crimped and mechanical locking.

[LifeIsGood]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JEGS-Performance-Products-81656-Pinion-Yoke-Wrench-Made-from-Heavy-Duty-Steel/111893912397?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

i had heard of alot of shops that replace a seal with out removing the pinion and changeing the crush sleeve, but it seems to be alittle luck, and being carefull not to over tighten. you should always use a new nut, the are normally crimped and mechanical locking.

Have you used the pinion yoke wrench in your link on your GEN II?

[RyanLS.GEN2]

i bought one from ratech that uses a 1/2 breaker bar. just a flat laser cut piece of steel, the square drive hole for the breaker bar started to egg out almost right away, then i had to weld a pipe to it. this one already has the pipe handle. i have never used the one in the link above though. i got this one, and its soso: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-18001?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-ratech&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhKviBRCNARIsAAGZ7Cca_5xaXhGAnfTrz6uE O-5Qola4mgLXiBxMzEAgQmyvpvgVLJXj5isaAtDAEALw_wcB

[LifeIsGood]

Okay, I just ordered the pinion yoke wrench. I tried my 1 1/4" socket on the pinion nut and it's too small and my 1 3/8" is too big. I don't have a 1 5/16", 33 mm or 34 mm, so I need to buy one. Does anybody know which is actually the correct one?

I've watched a ton of youtube videos on this topic and have also read alot about it. I found a thread on the old viper site where Chuck Tator posted this:


We have found many with that leak. The gear oil will work its way up the splines and come out around the pinion nut washer [out of 50 Vipers, maybe 6 of them]. The pinion seal is ONLY sealing the yoke. My fix for this leak: You'll need 4' crescent, 1 3/16" socket 3/4" drive, 6 point 3/8" wrench & a center punch. Remove your drive shaft, with the center punch put a mark on the end of the pinion shaft and then put a mark on the pinion nut aligned with the mark on the shaft. This way when you go back together you can get the nut back to the exact same spot, this way you wont have to worry about the pre-load on the pinion bearings because you'll be back to where you started! To remove the nut you'll need to hold the yoke from moving when loosening the nut, the 4' crescent works great. Once you have the yoke off, clean the splines [yoke & shaft], you could replace the seal while you have it apart. From the diff side of the yoke put a coating of silicone/RTV on the splines about an inch in [plumbers paste would work]. As you slide the yoke onto the pinion shaft the silicone will coat the splines the lengths of the yoke and if you got enough silicone on the yoke, there should be some that has come out the end. Leave the extra silicone there, this will seal the washer! Put the washer and nut on and tighten back to your marks, DO NOT go any further!! Install the drive shaft and go for a ride. I think you'll find that the leak is gone.


I'm pretty sure I just have a leaky pinion seal (maybe leaking through the splines). I already drained the gear fluid and removed the drive shaft. I'm going to follow most of his advice and do this:

Mark the pinion shaft and pinion nut with a punch.
Count the number of threads protruding beyond the pinion nut.
Remove the yoke using the pinion yoke wrench and the correct socket (33 mm, 34 mm or 1 5/16") along with pipe extensions.
Remove the pinion seal. I've watched a lot of videos where they used a flat head screwdriver to mangle it out.
Clean the entire pinion yoke and the splines on the pinion gear.
Install the new pinion seal.
Add Red RTV Silicone to the splines.
Install the pinion yoke.
Add red Loctite to pinion gear threads.
Install the washer and pinion nut. Tighten the pinion nut until the original thread depth is reached and the punch marks align.
Fill with 45 ozs of Mopar High Performance Synthetic Axle Lube SAE 75 W/140 (MS-8985) (Mopar #4874469) and 4 ozs of Mopar Gear Additive (Mopar #4318060AC).
Install the fill plug and tighten to 30 ft-lbs.
Install drive shaft using new shaft straps and strap bolts. Tighten bolts to 15 ft-lbs.

[Boosted Motorsports]

Seems pretty logical! I don't see why that wouldn't work. Let us know how it goes!

Only thing I wouild swap out is get yourself some permatex "the right stuff" instead of that garbage red RTV. It's a bit more pricey but man does that stuff ever work good! You can put any oil pan, etc immediately back into service and that stuff will seal just about anything!

[LifeIsGood]

I'm gonna use this special purpose sealer...Permatex Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker (https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-gear-oil-rtv-gasket-maker/)...

36425

OEM specified. Specially formulated to withstand the harsh gear oil environment found in differentials and transfer cases. Because gear oil has friction modifiers that break down normal RTV and cause leaking, this specialty silicone has been tested to OEM specifications to ensure complete sealing.

[SRT BILL]

Hello Lifeisgood, How did this project work out for you? I may have to do the same thing you have done and wondering if you have anything to add to this very informative thread.

Thank for any info,
Bill

[elw98]

Just did this same thing to my 98. Gear oil coming out thru splines. New mopar seal, permatex gear oil sealer, new straps & bolts. Exactly as the wizard detailed.... maybe 30 minutes, peace of cake. No more leak.

Ernie