No Spark Fresh rebuild 1996

[Ttillots]

Hello,

If anyone can chime in, car ran perfectly fine until I threw a rod. Pulled engine, did a rebuild and just put the engine back in. I've connected all my sensors, and checked what fuses I could find from inside the cab on the passenger side. I'm not getting spark, although I got spark just fine the last time it ran. I know the PCM is the main cause for no spark, could it be anything else? When I connect the battery, I tend to always have to disarm the theft system with my jumper wire. I understand that cam and crank sensors could be a factor to, but everything worked when I last powered it down. What could it be?

[99RT10]

Do you have a key fob? If so, did you try to lock, then unlock with it?

[Ttillots]

No it does not. It stopped working before I spun the rod

[99RT10]

Start with that, get the Fob back working and reset the alarm. It could be keeping the car from starting. If you reconnected the battery, you ABSOLUTELY have to reset the alarm. Replace the battery in the Fob, stand next to the car, hold both buttons down and see if it resets.

[Ttillots]

I thought the green jumper wire from under the steering wheel resets the alarm system? When you plug the car battery back in the lights flash and a clicking noise comes from the security module. Grounding the green wire disarms/resets it and the lights stop flashing/clicking. For some reason I’ve had problems with my fob, the lock option only works when you ground the green wire. I’ve just never bothered trying to figure it out anymore, it randomly stopped working like it’s not programmed to the module anymore or something.....

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I thought the green jumper wire from under the steering wheel resets the alarm system? When you plug the car battery back in the lights flash and a clicking noise comes from the security module. Grounding the green wire disarms/resets it and the lights stop flashing/clicking. For some reason I’ve had problems with my fob, the lock option only works when you ground the green wire. I’ve just never bothered trying to figure it out anymore, it randomly stopped working like it’s not programmed to the module anymore or something.....

[Ttillots]

So far I've been able to determine that my temperature switch (Engine Coolant Warning Lamp Switch) in the passenger side head is missing from when I had head work done at the machine shop. I highly doubt that this sensor is the root cause of the of my PCM going into safety mode and not sending spark but I will find out when I install it tomorrow. I've been reading through my service manual on how to diagnose it. I believe my PCM is doing the Auto Shutdown mode. Need to light test the camshaft sensor, camshaft sensor and then my relays underneath the PCM. (Already checked all the fuses in the cab on the passenger side, can't find another fuse box on my Gen 1/2) will keep updated. Any input is appreciated

[Steve-Indy]

Ttillots, the Gen I and Gen II Vipers produced in 1996 have very different alarm systems. By searching your old posts I see that you have a 1996 R/T 10.

"The green jumper wire" statement is of interest. IF you are referring to the bullet-tipped wire coming from the group of wires entering plug on the RKE, THAT green OEM wire is for programming key fobs...NOT for resetting the alarm when system is in theft mode shut down. Admittedly, some have tried adding a wire in that area to disarm alarm more conveniently. For obvious reasons, any further discussions of the alarm system need to be done person to person on the phone and not in an open forum. Feel free to give me a call if you like. 317-402-9013. Not sure I can help, but willing to try.

[Ttillots]

So far, I found this out... 1. My alarm now works, activates and deactivates the alarm. 2. I have a Gen 1 wiring harness with the Relays on the passenger side under the PCM by the heater core. 3. I have 5 Ohms reading on my crankshaft and camshaft sensors. 4. On the coil pack plugs, when you turn the key over with a light test on the big green wire the test light comes on then goes off, you turn the key and the test stays on but dims when cranking over, you stop turning the key/cranking the engine and the test light goes off. 5. Still no spark on any of the spark plugs and I tested the all the pins on the coil pack connector and the big green one is the only one that comes on.

At this point, I could still have a bad crankshaft/cam shaft sensor however plugged in or not, I still get power to the coil pack connector green wire. Or I have both coil packs bad. What gets me is that everything worked just fine when I pulled the engine. I've also cleaned all my grounds.