Engine mount install help

[Zubik]

I changed our all my fluids today and decide to tackle engine and transmission mounts. Per FSm it's fairly straight forward, remove 3 bracket bolts and one frame nut. Jack the engine up a bit and slide out the old engine mount.... I have done engine mounts on other cars but was stumped today by the viper.

I barely got the drivers side out. The polybushings 2710 mount a are thicker. I couldn't not get the mount/bracket assembly in back in... I ended up putting the old mount in for now, but that took me almost 2hours of cussing and futzing with it. Is there any trick I am missing out on?

I am planning to tackle the headers in a week or two. I figured with the header out I would have more room to maneuver new mounts in. Thoughts?

[Zubik]

I finally got the engine mounts in. I installed a pair of M&M headers and tackled all the mounts at the same time. Having the headers out makes thing so much easier. Honestly I do not know how to tackle the passenger mount with the header in the way. My two cents: I was raising the engine evenly from the front, it actually way better to lift it from the side that one is working on.

I fabricated heat shields for the headers our of header armor, by heatshield products. Used some locking fasteners by stage8. Did around 100 miles of driving and nothing melty to report. The sills are much cooler without the cats. Fairly easy install. Did not have to remove valve covers at all. Way easier than the engine mounts.....

Driving impressions:
-the shifts are so much more precise. Cold shifting improved drastically.
-there is more vibration, the harshest around 3k rpm
-throttle input is more "snappier" when I stomp it, I think it's a more linear response. For whatever reason the car feels more planted.
-the car is insanely loud:m&m headers, no cat, Billy boat exhaust, 3 inch from header back. Though this is what I wanted. I think my neighbors will hate me....

I'll try to post some pictures later.

[Redx]

Im not sure how yours fit, but my polybushings mounts fit like crap on my gen 4. The headers were literally hitting the side of the frame(where the J pipes mount), only can be rectified by fabricating a 5/16" plate shim on the passenger side to square up the engine, mass fuckery. These were temporary till i could get another set of woodhouse mounts back in.

[Zubik]

Dug some photos out from the install. I bought heatshield product 1/8" header armor to make heatshields. It's fairly pricey: ~$350. I bought two kits for a V8 and barely had enough to get both sides done. I feel that it makes a difference.
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[Zubik]

I had a weird stumble at idle and random misfires. I started with changing out plugs, which improved the situation but did not make it go away. I decided to change out the wires and coils, while there. Coils are screamin demon and wires are MSD. While there installed a Doug Shelby engineering catch can. Cylinder 7 or 9 had a tear in the shielding. The car is so smooth now. 36504

[Zubik]

I changed the valve cover gaskets and while there put in thicker Roe push rods. While returning from test drive, my radiator end tank gave out. Luckily this happened in my driveway. I replaced that with a Roe 3 row unit and upper and lower silicone rad pipes.
While having the upper pipe off, found out that the high pressure power steering pump line is seeping a bit.
The projects never end :rolleyes: Next oil change will be the oil cooler lines and power steering lines.
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[Zubik]

The first thing I did thought was to wrap the viper. I swore that I would never buy another black car, but I got a deal that I could not pass up. A local MD company did a full body wrap in protective film, but instead of clear it has a haze to it. It changes whatever color under it to flat. It is so much easier to take care of the car now. The film is much thicker than vinyl and has self healing properties like clear films do. Also found a set of ACR wheels.
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