Heed Jon B's warning on 2003-2010 emergency brake issue

[Newport Viper]

Yep ....for the second time in 63,000 miles on my 2004 I could hear the ebrake pads grinding as I passed curbs....

Where did the pad go? see inside drivers side pad or lack of below....

Get a hold of Jon B at www.partsrack.com for replacements when you let it go too far like I did... ooooops


http://driveviper.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_20140219_084425.jpg


http://driveviper.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_20140219_085044.jpg

Jon's warning below

Fellow Gen 3-4 Owners:

This has been mentioned before, but EVERY WEEK I encounter 3-4 owners who have this "Emergency" Brake problem, and they did NOT know it.

Do you regularly use your Emergency Brake, even if its not an emergency? Parking in your garage, for example? Pulling your E-handle just out of habit? [D6666 does!]

On SRT10s, the automatic adjustment causes the caliper to tighten and often it DRAGS only the inner E-brake pad. It is out-of-sight, and out of mind. Unless you 'test' at sub-walking speeds to see if its dragging, you likley wont know.

Or: put your hand near the rear rotor after a normal drive. Does it 'feel' hotter than it should? As hot as the fronts feel?
You may be dragging your E-pads! Within a few thousand miles, you will destroy the thin E-pad, and then eat the inner rear rotor. Then you might hear the squeel/squeek unless you have a loud exhaust.

Eventually you could ruin the pad, the rotors, and even the E-caliper. ALL UNSEEN as its the insider rear only! If an ACR, the rotors are $525/pair! TAKE A LOOK ASAP....

Get down low, behind the car. Examine the E-caliper pads. Are the inner pads obvously THINNER than the outer pads?
You are DRAGGING! Your inside rotor surface is a bit thinner too. Swap the pads out-for-in. Stop using your E-brake when flat and level. Lubricate the cable mechanism. Pay attention to this issue, or face premature expiration of your epads and rotors.

Not having an emergency? Dont habitually use the E-brake.

Be Safe Out There...... JonB

[ACRucrazy]

One of the first things I was told with JonB when I bought my first Viper was not to use ebrake unless needed. Great advice I and I use that suggestion.

[ViperGTS]

I remember my mechanic telling me that the cable for the e-brake is under tension (stock) too much and should be loosened somehow...to avoid this.
Any input on this?

[FrgMstr]

Replacing $500 worth of rotors right now because of this. CHECK THE INSIDE pads on the e-brake as a normal maintenance item. I learned the hard way.

[J TNT]

Good advice , I reversed mine last year , caught it in time :)

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

"Reversing the E-pads" inner-to-outer before damage occurs save the cost of the pads and the damage! The outer pad 'never' wears out....

You can even buy just half-a-set of new E-pads for $60 from you-know-hoo.......

[Rizzo]

Had this happen on my Gen 3. I caught it in time and no damage other than an almost worn out inner pad. Only did it on the drivers side on mine. Strange.

[slowhatch]

Gonna check mine tonight.

[St.Char]

That's amazing that it wore the entire pad down, thanks for the pics, that's unfortunate...

[Alex Mills]

My left one has been squeaking for a year or two now. I pretty much never use my parking brake and figured there was nothing I could do about it.

If I swap inside to out, this should resolve the squeak?

[ViperGTS]

if there is something left to swap from the inside...check!


My left one has been squeaking for a year or two now. I pretty much never use my parking brake and figured there was nothing I could do about it.

If I swap inside to out, this should resolve the squeak?

[ACR Steve]

Never use mine and had it happen lucky I heard it . Is there any fix to put les tension on the cable?

[MI Viper]

Had this happen on my Gen 3. I caught it in time and no damage other than an almost worn out inner pad. Only did it on the drivers side on mine. Strange.

Same here, on our gen IV, just drivers side, the inner pad was about 50% more wore out, than outer pad. Took Jon B advice and just swapped the inner and outer pads, and the passenger side was fine. I also ordered the new 2 sets before I pulled the wheels. Haven't set the parking brake since, (Florida is the land of flatness)

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

My left one has been squeaking for a year or two now. I pretty much never use my parking brake and figured there was nothing I could do about it. If I swap inside to out, this should resolve the squeak?

"PROBABLY".... but a dragging inner E-pad is the problem, and the squeak is just a symptom to help diagnose it.

And for some reason (probably corner-weighting) the driver's side seems to be worse.

Other note: If you wear-out and ruin ONE rotor, you have to replace BOTH! You cannot have a thick-new-rotor on one just side!

[Bluecoupe]

I will check my e-brake when I install my new PSS tires (from JonB) this weekend. I only have 12K miles on my Viper, but it is worth checking.

[Bill Pemberton]

Just to add one more note to this issue, if you have an ACR, and you track it ( or if you track your Viper), even if you do not use your E-Brake , your E-Brake pads will wear extremely quickly.
Almost everyone I know who has an ACR has gone through the pads and most of us never use the Emergency Brakes as we are conditioned not to set it after a track outing for fear of warping
the rotors. Replaced my rear pads at 7,000 miles!

[Vypr Phil]

Will the Gen V have the same problem or has this been resolved?

[Steve M]

Will the Gen V have the same problem or has this been resolved?

I don't think anyone really knows yet...it appears to be the same parking brake assembly, but mounted on the opposite side. Not sure what that does to the cable routing.

I think only Nine Ball would have enough miles on his to make a fair assessment.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Will the Gen V have the same problem or has this been resolved?

E-Cable line routing is quite different, and caliper is now in FRONT of wheel. We think the same issue will occur....but hard to predict. Time will tell.......... "probably" But even harder to visualize now with wheel on.

[Sonoman]

It looks to me like the source of the dragging brake may not be the Brembo e-brake caliper itself but the Viper's overly aggressive auto-tensioning cable mechanism up at the hand brake lever. BTW, Brembo sold a similar system known as the "GT Series hand brake kit" in the aftermarket. Does anyone know if you release all the cable tension does the inner brake pad retract a bit or does it continue to ride on the disc surface? As a purely mechanical (non-hydraulic) e-brake, the release of the pad/piston tension should be controlled by a return spring, else the pad will not retract after releasing the e-brake lever. There are a few annoying issues about a dragging e-brake-- in addition to wearing out the pads prematurely, it is throwing extra heat into the rotors and generating more brake dust as well. Just a poorly executed design overall.

[Steve M]

I don't think releasing the cable tension would matter...it certainly wouldn't retract the piston. When you go to replace the pads, you have to retract the piston by doing a combo push down and turn with a pair of pliers (or something similar), essentially screwing it back in to the caliper.

[Sonoman]

I don't think releasing the cable tension would matter...it certainly wouldn't retract the piston. When you go to replace the pads, you have to retract the piston by doing a combo push down and turn with a pair of pliers (or something similar), essentially screwing it back in to the caliper.

Good info. The retraction would only have to be a fraction of a hair to get the pad wear issue resolved. As long as there is no actual pressure applied it shouldn't wear the pad significantly.

[aspman]

So a stupid question....if you don't set the brake what are you doing?

[Steve M]

So a stupid question....if you don't set the brake what are you doing?

Leaving it in gear.

[swexlin]

Leaving it in gear.

My only problem is where I live it is very hilly, even in some parking lots. Just leaving in gear when parking isn't really secure enough.

[aspman]

So you just leave it in gear when youre out in public?.....I can see it in the garage.I always set it because I never knew this was a problem.

[Steve M]

So you just leave it in gear when youre out in public?.....I can see it in the garage.I always set it because I never knew this was a problem.

Out in public I usually do set the brake (unless I'm just getting gas), but I rarely leave it out in public...it spends most of its parked time in my garage, where it sits without the e-brake engaged.

[Voice of Reason]

Does anyone know if this has been resolved on the Gen V? It looks like the same parking brake setup so now I'm worried, I set mine every time I get out of the car.

[Mamba52]

Just remove them like I did. Saved weight too. When I park on a hill I turn the front wheels into the curb or away and place the car in first gear. No more problems for me.:drive:

[MI Viper]

So you just leave it in gear when youre out in public?.....I can see it in the garage.I always set it because I never knew this was a problem.

Yep,
Public or not, not sure why that matters.... In 1st gear, that is ALOT of compression to over come. Are you concerned about it jumping out of gear? I rotated our pads when I checked ours, (rotated driver's side pads inner to outer) and the pads have been just kinda floating since, have NOT used the E-brake since. Thanks to JonB. for helping with this problem. :)

[Ginja]

Just checked my 2004, both outers fine, both inners seriously borderline - so pleased this thread was started!! Thanks!

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Does anyone know if this has been resolved on the Gen V? It looks like the same parking brake setup so now I'm worried, I set mine every time I get out of the car.


See my reply post # 19 in this thread.....

The bigger issue is, why yank-yard on the E-brake if you are not having an E ?!? Every time you pull it, the caliper tightens tension on the pads. If you only use it when you risk rolling away, then you are not habitually, unnecessarily adjusting it tighter.

Don't use in your garage, flat parking lots, etc. No gravity at play? Don't set the brake, just leave in LOW gear 1-2-R. Morton IL is flatland?! I mean you're not in SanFran / Seattle?!? Mandatory E-brakes there, wheels-cocked as Mamba 52 sez.

If you just drop the 'habit' and think first, the problem can be avoided. As a bonus, think of this: The clamped E-brake caliper retains/soaks HEAT while rest of the rotor cools much faster. Over time this can help warp the older rotor into a 'waffle-edged' shape, casuing it to pulse on braking. Stop habitual E-brake use for THAT reason alone, unless needed!

[Sonoman]

So after all is said and done, we have decided the best solution to the draggy parking brake is...
3523
Correct?? :dropdev:

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Yep,
Public or not, not sure why that matters.... In 1st gear, that is ALOT of compression to over come. Are you concerned about it jumping out of gear? I rotated our pads when I checked ours, (rotated driver's side pads inner to outer) and the pads have been just kinda floating since, have NOT used the E-brake since. Thanks to JonB. for helping with this problem. :)


Just checked my 2004, both outers fine, both inners seriously borderline - so pleased this thread was started!! Thanks!


GLAD to be of help on this point, [for YEARS now considering the old forum.]

SRT OWNERS NOTE: If you DON'T check your inner E-brake pads SOONER.......you may regret it LATER. Especially if you ruin expensive ACR or Track-Pack 2pc rotors.


The immediate-cheap fix is to rotate SRT E pads inner-to-outer / visa-versa.
Next stage is $60 for half-a-set of new E-pads, or two-guys SPLIT a $118 full set!

[TowDawg]

Twice in 63k miles? I WISH I could that long! I flip inside to outside and still get maybe 10-12k miles out of a set. And I VERY RARELY ever use the parking brake. I think I've heard that cars that get tracked eat through them a lot fast though due to deflection. Hopefully I can go a bit longer on a set now that the Viper's track days are finished (or at least very limited).

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Yes Indeed, if you track your SRT10 the situation seems to be evenworse. I suspect its due to extreme rotor heat destroying any lube the mechanical E-caliper has. And there is little-no airflow on the E-caliper.

Bill P only got 7000 miles on his pads and 'never uses his e-brake' in the Nebraska Flatlands....

[Sonoman]

Bill P only got 7000 miles on his pads and 'never uses his e-brake' in the Nebraska Flatlands....

I very rarely set mine either and it seems to be still dragging after multiple trips taken. Seems to imply that while not setting the parking brake may reduce the dragging problem, it does not eliminate it. Man, I hate messing with the brake system, especially considering it takes considerable grip for a disc parking brake to lock the car in place long-term. Drum brakes actually do better as a parking brake since they tend to "bind-up" to the stationary drum and lock the car in place. My old 911 had a small drum brake inside the disc rotor to serve as a parking brake, a feature later in common use as 4-wheel discs became popular. Also, because any defect in the hydraulics can cause it to leak-down and lose pressure over an extended time period, the cable operated mechanical system is much safer for a parking brake/e-brake.

All that said, it would sure be nice if someone with brake expertise would look at this setup and figure a way to at least reduce the auto-tensioning feature to something less aggressive, or better still-- improve the released retraction so that it doesn't drag (which is generally a requirement in the adjustment procedure for every other parking brake I have seen).

[Jay M]

Thanks for this reminder. About a year ago a friend pointed that issue out to me, and mine indeed were worn on the inside. Thankfully they hadn't dmaged the rotors yet, they were covered on the extended warranty. It's been about a year now, so I better look at them again.

I hate to dump on our cars, and Chrysler, but in 2004 shouldn't they have figured out how to build an e-brake?

~Jay

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

I am pretty sure a couple of my older, other brands (Jag and Mitsu) used an inboard axle-stopping park-brake mechanism. The diff helps the braking!


A replacement mechanical, non-self-adjusting SRT E-brake kit would be $600....but 2 damaged ACR rotors cost $525.

[ViperGeorge]

I believe Mark at IPSCO (site sponsor) is working on a solution. I've replaced both sides on my ACR twice, every 7000 miles. Also did my vert once but its not tracked like my ACR.

[ohlarikd]

Hmm, my car is hibernating, but I will have to remember to check this. Can you see the inside caliper without removing the wheel (stock 2005 10 spokes)? No biggie, just curious if I can see it, but I doubt it.

By flipping the pads, the suggestion is just to get a little more life out of a PAIR, correct? There is not something special about the outside pad? I have constantly heard a slight squeak from the right side of my car when moving slowly in traffic, when I can hear sound bounce off other cars back at me. So I wonder if this is the rear ebrake caliper now...

[Sonoman]

Yes, flipping just gets you a longer pair life. That squeak at very low speeds can be the e-brake (mine had it), but it can also be from other sources such as the main brake pads. Mine would do it consistently pulling into the garage last summer. I used a water mist bottle in the driveway to figure out it was a disc brake (and which wheel was squeaking), then swapped the e-brake pads.

On my sidewinder wheels it is possible to see the inner pads with a light and an inspection mirror (tiltable round mirror on a shaft).


Hmm, my car is hibernating, but I will have to remember to check this. Can you see the inside caliper without removing the wheel (stock 2005 10 spokes)? No biggie, just curious if I can see it, but I doubt it.

By flipping the pads, the suggestion is just to get a little more life out of a PAIR, correct? There is not something special about the outside pad? I have constantly heard a slight squeak from the right side of my car when moving slowly in traffic, when I can hear sound bounce off other cars back at me. So I wonder if this is the rear ebrake caliper now...

[DreadLox]

Hmmm... Well I have my car on display at a Quaker Steak for the winter... And the Emergency brake has been on for a few months, could this potentially cause a problem?

[Sonoman]

No problem, it is just that every time you set the parking brake it can slightly increase the tension on the e-brake due to an auto-adjustment feature. The intent was, as the pads wear, the auto-adjust would take out any cable slack so that the parking brake handle would not have to be pulled up farther and farther as the pads wore down. With auto-adjust, the e-brake pressure is always consistent with a given travel of the brake lever handle. Not a bad idea, but in this case it seems to be overcompensating a bit. Also, the caliper itself may have an issue with not retracting the pads sufficiently when the e-brake is released, resulting in a steady light drag of the e-brake especially on the inner pad.


Hmmm... Well I have my car on display at a Quaker Steak for the winter... And the Emergency brake has been on for a few months, could this potentially cause a problem?

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Hmm, my car is hibernating, but I will have to remember to check this. Can you see the inside caliper without removing the wheel (stock 2005 10 spokes)? No biggie, just curious if I can see it, but I doubt it.

By flipping the pads, the suggestion is just to get a little more life out of a PAIR, correct? There is not something special about the outside pad? I have constantly heard a slight squeak from the right side of my car when moving slowly in traffic, when I can hear sound bounce off other cars back at me. So I wonder if this is the rear ebrake caliper now...

YES, and YES! Just approach the E-caliper from underneath and behind, with a good flashlight. You can see the inner pads inside that E-caliper. My bet is that your inner SRT10 E-pads are very much thinner than the outers. Due to dragging. If so, you can SWAP them In-Out for no cost, to use em up. But this fixes nothing. The inner pad will 'probably always' drag. Especially if you are an habitual-E-braker.

The slight scuff-scuff sound becomes a squeal when its too late....the E-pad can be down to metal, and damage the rotor.

[CaptainDavid]

Does anybody have a "How To for Dummies" on replacing or swapping the epads ?? I'll check mine tonight, I've been using the ebrake often and unnecessarily, 5000 miles on the car....
Thanks guys

[Steve M]

Does anybody have a "How To for Dummies" on replacing or swapping the epads ?? I'll check mine tonight, I've been using the ebrake often and unnecessarily, 5000 miles on the car....
Thanks guys

It's not too bad...make sure the e-brake handle is down and remove the caliper (it is held in place by two bolts, one will be an allen head). You'll be able to remove the pads at that point, but if you install new pads, you'll need to retract the piston...I used a pair of needle nose pliers with a 90° tip. There are two holes on the piston you can insert the pliers into...push down and turn clockwise to retract it. They do make a special tool just for this purpose, but the one I bought (from Harbor Freight) was not compatible with the hole size and spacing on the Viper's e-brake piston.

Assemble everything in reverse order, and that's it. You'll have to pull the e-brake handle a few times to extend the piston enough to reengage the e-brake.

I always leave one side assembled for a quick reference when I inevitably forget how something is supposed to go back together.

[CaptainDavid]

Thanks Steve M, got it !!!

[Steve M]

I believe Mark at IPSCO (site sponsor) is working on a solution. I've replaced both sides on my ACR twice, every 7000 miles. Also did my vert once but its not tracked like my ACR.

Is there any validity to this? I'd certainly be interested to see what someone can come up with...

[Viktimize]

See my reply post # 19 in this thread.....

The bigger issue is, why yank-yard on the E-brake if you are not having an E ?!? Every time you pull it, the caliper tightens tension on the pads. If you only use it when you risk rolling away, then you are not habitually, unnecessarily adjusting it tighter.

Don't use in your garage, flat parking lots, etc. No gravity at play? Don't set the brake, just leave in LOW gear 1-2-R. Morton IL is flatland?! I mean you're not in SanFran / Seattle?!? Mandatory E-brakes there, wheels-cocked as Mamba 52 sez.

If you just drop the 'habit' and think first, the problem can be avoided. As a bonus, think of this: The clamped E-brake caliper retains/soaks HEAT while rest of the rotor cools much faster. Over time this can help warp the older rotor into a 'waffle-edged' shape, casuing it to pulse on braking. Stop habitual E-brake use for THAT reason alone, unless needed!

I use my e-brake for parking, because it is the only parking brake the car has. And leaving it in gear is not a brake, nor what you're supposed to do.

Now that I know of this issue I will go against my better judgement and just start parking it in gear, but it would be great to get a fix for this so we can use our parking brakes as designed. Some places you will actually get a ticket if bylaw walks by your car and sees that the parkign brake is not engaged.

[apeas2]

Great thread, thanks! My 08 only has 4k miles on it, and if I pull my ebrake handle all of the way back, it still wont prevent the car from rolling even on a slight incline. If I set and release a bunch of times, will it tighten the cable or do I have a different problem? Thanks!

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Great thread, thanks! My 08 only has 4k miles on it, and if I pull my ebrake handle all of the way back, it still wont prevent the car from rolling even on a slight incline. If I set and release a bunch of times, will it tighten the cable or do I have a different problem? Thanks!

Every time you pull the handle of your (any year) Viper, you are adjusting the Rear brake pads closer to the rotor. If you pull it 10 times vs 2 times, you WILL be adjusting it tighter each time on a 1-way threaded ratchet. But there is a 'diminished return' once you get the pad right up to the rotor, it is not designed to keep tightening at all costs. BUT IT DOES NOT RELEASE WELL on SRT10s

The SRT10 Problem is that the inner pads can and do drag the rotor a bit, eating up the inner pad and potentially eating up the inner rotor. The INNER problem is that it is "Out-Of-Sight" unless you read this thread and CHECK !


If you hear a very slight 'scuff' sound as the car comes to a stop, ASSume its dragging.

[Joel]

This is not just a problem with Vipers. Lots of cars wear pads differently - it is just more expensive with a Viper though some exotics are more. Curiously, I checked my pads on my '03 and both are wearing the same - inner and outer - with 25,000 miles and I do use my e-brake. Even a blind hog finds an acorn.

[Newport Viper]

From the Manuel,
(1) Using the retractor tool, rotate piston clockwise until the piston is fully seated (bottomed) in the bore. My note (Needle nose pliers work too)
(2) Install the pads, (outboard and inboard) are identical
(3) Position the spring and then slide the retaining pin through the spring and holes in brake pads.
(4) Install the hair pin in the retaining pin.
(5) Install the caliper onto the knuckle.
(6) Insert the cable through caliper bracket and slide cable housing into caliper bracket.
(7) Then install cable end into the apply lever on caliper.
(8) Grasp the cable between cable housing and apply lever and pull outward until there is enough slack to install over the pivoting wheel.

[apeas2]

Just had the wheels off on my 08. Plenty of pad left (inner and outer) on both sides. I still have the issue where I yank my ebrake lever all the way back and it doesn't hold my car, not even on the slightest incline. Did my cable stretch? What should I do? I have the service manual and I couldn't find a chapter to adjust the ebrake. Thanks!

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

This is not just a problem with Vipers. Lots of cars wear pads differently - it is just more expensive with a Viper though some exotics are more. Curiously, I checked my pads on my '03 and both are wearing the same - inner and outer - with 25,000 miles and I do use my e-brake. Even a blind hog finds an acorn.

Joel: You have an oddball......

I actually suspect that after 11 years and 25k miles maybe the 'auto adjust' ratchet tightener is non-functioning ! APEAS2 may also have a non-functioning tightener.

[Joel]

You callin' me an oddball...? I guess if the shoe fits.


Joel: You have an oddball......

I actually suspect that after 11 years and 25k miles maybe the 'auto adjust' ratchet tightener is non-functioning ! APEAS2 may also have a non-functioning tightener.

[apeas2]

Joel: APEAS2 may also have a non-functioning tightener.

Thanks JonB. I do have an extended warranty with a $200 deductible, I just dont want SRT certified mechanics working on it. When I got my oil change last year (before I installed a lift), I was talking to my "Viper Tech" about other fluids being 6 years old, but my car only had 2300 miles on it when I bought it. The "Viper Tech" first asked me if my Viper was a stick or Automatic and then proceeded to tell me that the fluids are not broken in yet as my car has low miles. He said the other fluids being 6 years old were not a problem including the coolant.

[Joel]

JonB just called me an oddball but he's talking about your tightener. The man has no shame.


Thanks JonB. I do have an extended warranty with a $200 deductible, I just dont want SRT certified mechanics working on it. When I got my oil change last year (before I installed a lift), I was talking to my "Viper Tech" about other fluids being 6 years old, but my car only had 2300 miles on it when I bought it. The "Viper Tech" first asked me if my Viper was a stick or Automatic and then proceeded to tell me that the fluids are not broken in yet as my car has low miles. He said the other fluids being 6 years old were not a problem including the coolant.

[swexlin]

Thanks JonB. I do have an extended warranty with a $200 deductible, I just dont want SRT certified mechanics working on it. When I got my oil change last year (before I installed a lift), I was talking to my "Viper Tech" about other fluids being 6 years old, but my car only had 2300 miles on it when I bought it. The "Viper Tech" first asked me if my Viper was a stick or Automatic and then proceeded to tell me that the fluids are not broken in yet as my car has low miles. He said the other fluids being 6 years old were not a problem including the coolant.

Now that is scary. After all these years, these types of stories still amaze me.

[Alex Mills]

Just had the wheels off on my 08. Plenty of pad left (inner and outer) on both sides. I still have the issue where I yank my ebrake lever all the way back and it doesn't hold my car, not even on the slightest incline. Did my cable stretch? What should I do? I have the service manual and I couldn't find a chapter to adjust the ebrake. Thanks!

I have the same problem. Mine will even roll in gear so it's always worrying and I have to avoid steep hills.

[Alex Mills]

Sure enough...

Took my driver's side wheel off and plenty of pad left. Thought I'd be fine. Took the passenger's side off. You can barely see any pad at all left! Getting the dealer to replace it tomorrow. Thanks for saving me from having to get a new set of rotors! Phew!

[Unorthodox]

Good to know! Thanks for sharing!

[swexlin]

Well, I'm having new Baer rotors (and new pads all around) installed next week. After they go on, I'll be using the E-brake only minimally (parking on a hill, for instance) in order to prevent this type of thing from happening on my 03.

Thanks to JonB again for those rotors, by the way!!

[Creatre]

Good read. Just picked up the car and I hear the squeak at low speeds. Previous owner said he just swapped inner/outer ebrake pads to help even wear. Will leave in gear in flat situations!

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Sure enough...

Took my driver's side wheel off and plenty of pad left. Thought I'd be fine. Took the passenger's side off. You can barely see any pad at all left! Getting the dealer to replace it tomorrow. Thanks for saving me from having to get a new set of rotors! Phew!

Alex - I would have provided the E pads you need for $65, free-ship 1-day local. Lessee what the dealer charges you?

[Husker]

Not sure how I missed this thread the first time. I know what I will be checking this weekend. I'm at 10,000 miles on my 08 SRT and use the E-brake all the time. Guess I have to give my report on what I find.

[RPM9000]

I am new to the Gen.IV and sure glad I found this thread. My ACR has 11,000 miles on it and I will check it this weekend too.

[Alex Mills]

Well, I'm having new Baer rotors (and new pads all around) installed next week. After they go on, I'll be using the E-brake only minimally (parking on a hill, for instance) in order to prevent this type of thing from happening on my 03.

Thanks to JonB again for those rotors, by the way!!

I pretty much never use my parking brake and still had the issue. I'd still check to make sure you have plenty of pad left. Can't be too safe.


Alex - I would have provided the E pads you need for $65, free-ship 1-day local. Lessee what the dealer charges you?

Way, way more than that! :)

I think they said it'd be $200 for the kit of 4 (yeesh!), plus $160 in labor. I don't really have a good place to work on my car -- the garage I get with my apartment is very narrow which makes doing a brake job a pain. Worth the money to me to just pay and be done with it.

Thank you though -- I will certainly be hitting you up for any parts for non-dealer work I do to my car.

[swexlin]

Alex, thanks, it's a moot point, because my rotors and pads are being replaced next week. But after everything new goes on, I'm getting into new habits about using (or not using) the e-brake.

[slpfirehawk]

Spoke to JonB on the phone about the issue and he was very helpful. Took time out of his busy day to answer my questions about the e-brake issue. We took my left rear wheel off today at work on my 09 ACR and the inner pad was almost gone! I backed off the caliper.. along with swapping the pads. No more rubbing and rotor is in good shape!

[Alex Mills]

I think they said it'd be $200 for the kit of 4 (yeesh!), plus $160 in labor.

I totally misheard his parts quote. It ended up being $125 for 4 new pads (about what JonB would charge, but with him I could get just 2 pads) and $160 in labor. All in all easier than trying to do it in my garage that's barely wider than the car.

[RPM9000]

I just got through pulling my rear wheels and my inside pads are more worn than the outers but they still have plenty pad left. I am in flat country here so I rarely need to use the e-brake.

[ohlarikd]

For some reason - the retainer pin is not sliding out. I removed the cotter pin of course, I can spin it, but it will not slide out... Help a dullard out here... what am I missing, other than my mind?

[Steve M]

For some reason - the retainer pin is not sliding out. I removed the cotter pin of course, I can spin it, but it will not slide out... Help a dullard out here... what am I missing, other than my mind?

What are you missing? A sledgehammer most likely...mine was fairly stuck too. Just need a hammer with some mass behind it.

[FrgMstr]

Use a punch.

[ohlarikd]

What are you missing? A sledgehammer most likely...mine was fairly stuck too. Just need a hammer with some mass behind it.

Ah ok, I used a hammer and an awl. Now that it's out, I see it has a compression fitting on it. Makes sense now. Thanks!

Drivers side basically ok, but swapped pads and pushed in piston. Have to do passenger side another day, it was against garage wall and no time to finish anyway. That is the side where I hear squeaking, so I am a little worried.

[A2008]

My 08 has 4700 miles on it. Checked both sides. Passenger side: Both pads look good, even wear. Driver Side: Outside pad looks good. Inside pad is half of what outside pad is. I rarely ever use my emergency brake. Will be moving the inside pad to the outside. Thanks for the Heads up! Great Post

[swexlin]

Just had my new Baer rotors installed, and along with all fresh pads. I'm now going to attempt to not use the e-brake unless it is:
a. and ACTUAL emergency
b. parking on a steep hill

[ohlarikd]

Checked the passenger side today, even wear. Both sides were fine luckily, but swapped pads anyway. The squeaking I had at low speed is GONE, so that is a relief. Now, if I can just break the habit of using the parking brake all the time. My attempt to not use it today resulted in pulling it 4 times in one excursion. Arrrrg.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Checked the passenger side today, even wear. Both sides were fine luckily, but swapped pads anyway. The squeaking I had at low speed is GONE, so that is a relief. Now, if I can just break the habit of using the parking brake all the time. My attempt to not use it today resulted in pulling it 4 times in one excursion. Arrrrg.

Therein lies the problem: Each time you (habitually) yank the handle, you ratchet-tighten the inner pad against the rotor.

This trick will stop your habit immediately: Make a loop of tape, or duct tape, or double-stick tape, and put it on the UNDERSIDE of the E-handle where you grab it. Out-Of-Sight. The instant you then grab the habit-handle you will recoil at the "tacky" feeling instead of pulling it. If you still NEED to brake you can choke-down on the handle and still use the E-brake.

It is a RARE SRT10 that is NOT dragging the inner Epad, and damaging the pad and rotor, out of sight. You gotta look.

[Creatre]

Been trying to be better about this lately. Annoying when I have to use the ebrake on a incline because I get the squeak back for a few days. Assuming it wears the pad a bit and that's why it disappears after a little driving.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Been trying to be better about this lately. Annoying when I have to use the ebrake on a incline because I get the squeak back for a few days. Assuming it wears the pad a bit and that's why it disappears after a little driving.

You described it Exactly......


Trivia: Gen 1-2 does the mechanical tightening rear adjustment too, but the dual-role hydraulic caliper does not make it a negative factor! Hint for Gen 1-2 Track-Rats: Pull and release the E-brake handle 5-6 times before a track event session to actually Add a bit of rear brake bias! G1-2 rears SUCK.... this process makes the rears bite a bit sooner, and with a bit more tip-in pressure! Your Track-tip for the day....

[swexlin]

Having just installed new brakes and rotors (thanks Jon, by the way) I am diligently trying not to do this. One question -
is it a bit more wear on the T-56 to leave it in gear on a slight incline without using the e-brake?

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

No Parts Moving, so no real wear.....no friction, no heat...the weight of the static car is far less than any at-speed load. Just be dang-sure you have it firmly in gear.

[SA Heat]

Just a reminder for Gen 3-4 owners....

Thank goodness I saw this thread. My inside e-brake pad on the driver's side was worn down to almost nothing....put a new pad on this morning. Wheel up to wheel down took less than two hours total. It will go a lot quicker if I ever have to do it again.

Does anyone know of a known permanent fix yet other than disconnecting everything?

[swexlin]

No Parts Moving, so no real wear.....no friction, no heat...the weight of the static car is far less than any at-speed load. Just be dang-sure you have it firmly in gear.

Thanks Jon!

[ohlarikd]

Does anyone know of a known permanent fix yet other than disconnecting everything?

Sadly, there is no solution. I just never use the emergency brake anymore... just leave it in reverse. Kind of a pain in certain situations as you can never leave the car running.

[SA Heat]

Sadly, there is no solution. I just never use the emergency brake anymore... just leave it in reverse. Kind of a pain in certain situations as you can never leave the car running.

Thanks. I'll try to do the same as much as possible. I don't like the idea of the pad dragging, but at least the "fix" (pad replacement) is relatively easy.

[Vprbite]

Always leave it in first or reverse, right? As higher gears could roll on a steep incline? I was also taught to put a car In Reverse if facing downhill and first when uphill. Though I am not sure if that makes a difference. Perhaps someone who knows more can add their expertise

[swexlin]

On very steep incline I'll still use the brake, but on a very slight incline, any forward gear (if uphill) should work.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

HINT: I talked the last guy out of buying ANY parts from me or the dealer. How? Just SWAP the 2 unworn outer pads with the 2 thin, worn, inner pads. Move outside pads IN, and inside pads OUT. The outer pad gets almost NO wear, and you can see it easily, so you don't even have to spend $60 on half-a-set of pads.


But if you IGNORE this Gen 3-4 SRT issue you could have to spend a lot more on ruined rear rotors and/or calipers.

GEN 5 OWNERS with mileage on car: please examine, report back? THANKS.

[HEADCSE]

I caught mine in time on my 03. I couldn't believe it. I changed them out just in time. The problem is once I did that I had to powder coat the calipers cause I wanted them red. Then that took a while so it created more time to get rid of the run flats to PS2 and chrome the wheels. It turned into much more than a 100 dollar project! LMAO!

[kblake905]

Hmmm.
This post had me worried so I checked my 2004 with 18,000 miles.
I had habitually set the parking brake every time I parked.
They looked fine! Whew! ;)
But I will refrain from using the E-brake from now on.....
6103

[Steve M]

Hmmm.
This post had me worried so I checked my 2004 with 18,000 miles.
I had habitually set the parking brake every time I parked.
They looked fine! Whew! ;)
But I will refrain from using the E-brake from now on.....
6103

Your pad wear is nice and even...if mine looked like that, I'd keep using the parking brake without hesitation.

I wonder why yours is so nice and even, and the rest of us suffer from massively uneven wear?

[ohlarikd]

Your pad wear is nice and even...if mine looked like that, I'd keep using the parking brake without hesitation.

I wonder why yours is so nice and even, and the rest of us suffer from massively uneven wear?

That is how mine looked at 5000 miles on my 2005. Pretty even. But I pushed the pads out anyway and I don't use the e-brake anymore because they still were squeaking.

[Steve M]

That is how mine looked at 5000 miles on my 2005. Pretty even. But I pushed the pads out anyway and I don't use the e-brake anymore because they still were squeaking.

Yeah...mine squeak all the damn time.

[ohlarikd]

Yeah...mine squeak all the damn time.

It was very annoying and also kinda embarrassing in traffic and parking lots... Took me awhile to break the e-brake habit.

[Vprbite]

So can anyone answer me if leaving it in reverse when facing downhill and 1st when facing uphill is better than just first gear? I was originally told that when learning at 15 yrs old but I don't know if it actually makes it difference. Anyone know for sure?

[ViperGTS]

Usually, you go with the highest gear ratio:
1st = 2.26
R = 2.90

First - emergency brake.
Second - 1st or R.
Third - Turn the front wheels so that the wheel hits the curb when moving downhill.
Parked.

[Steve M]

Usually, you go with the highest gear ratio:
1st = 2.26
R = 2.90

First - emergency brake.
Second - 1st or R.
Third - Turn the front wheels so that the wheel hits the curb when moving downhill.
Parked.

1st gear is 2.66 on all Vipers up until 2013, when it changed to 2.26. Not that it matters...just pointing it out.

[XSTAR]

Not that this thread needs a ton more testimonials, but I'm going to give one!

Never checked the ebrake pads when I got my new Baer Rotors and Pads a couple months back...got around to it and passenger side looked ok, drivers side (inside pad) was next to nothing!

[theviper]

Thanks to everyone for posting comments. I've had the squeal as well but have used by e-brake less than 10 times. I'm going to see if that is the cause after reading these posts.

[MtnBiker]

Check this out! Had to replace a broken wheel stud today and decided to swap the pads on the e-brake since it was off. Holy crap!! Do this ASAP!

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q593/MtnBiker8/Viper/Repairs/Worne-brakepad_zps1a88b9d9.jpg (http://s1165.photobucket.com/user/MtnBiker8/media/Viper/Repairs/Worne-brakepad_zps1a88b9d9.jpg.html)

Don't have to be a genius to see which pad was on the right side. This was on left rear. haven't looked at right rear.

[The Snake Charmer]

I've taken apart the parking brake and illustrated the mechanisms causing the problem (https://youtu.be/-aYsAh8vYAo). Please let me know if you have any creative solutions. I may use some gasket maker to hold the driven disk in place on the worm shaft.

If you don't watch the video, essentially the service manual tells you how the parking brake operates. It defines mostly all of the parts and how they work together to operate the parking brake. However, the piston assembly (the root of this problem) is not considered a "serviceable part" in the manual. Taking apart the brake assembly is very easy, with the small exception of a putting it back together will require a little effort to carefully force the return spring back in place, which is locked in place via an O-shaped bracket (all housed inside the piston housing and smothered in grease). Side note, there is another mention of an "automatic adjuster" in the service manual pertaining to the parking brake cable and handle housed under the center console inside the car, but this is a complete distraction from the actual problem with the automatic adjuster pertaining to the piston, worm shaft, and driven disk assembly, all housed inside the caliper.

How this assembly works is that when you pull the parking brake cable, it pulls an operating lever attached to the outside of the caliper, and when you release the parking brake, the operating lever return via an operating lever spring (which is outside the caliper). Via more moving parts the lever essentially causes the worm shaft to extend outward and inward via a return spring (these parts are inside the caliper). Threaded to the worm shaft is a driven disk, and this "drives" the piston. Example, pull parking brake handle up (inside car) , which pulls parking brake cable (run under the car), which pulls operating lever (outside caliper), which engages drive disk and return spring (inside caliper), which pushes worm shaft (inside caliper), and threaded to the worm shaft is a driven disk that directly engages piston causing it to extend outward. Now when you release the parking brake, all of these parts work in reverse, with the small exception that the driven disk only very very very slightly moved up the threaded worm shaft, thus causing the piston to not fully retract to the original location, but very very very slightly more outward than before. Obviously this was engineered to compensate for pad wear over time, thus the piston should indeed need to be extended further to engage the pads with the rotor, or else you would have too much slack in the brake line and would need to pull the brake handle up further and further, but if you don't use your parking brake for drifting, then your pads should last forever (excluding the occasional emergency use that would cause them to wear).

Back to the problem, the driven disk that is threaded to the worm shaft. We need a way to keep the driven disk in place. This is where I think gluing it in place is the most plausible solution, but I'd like to hear other ideas. I'll be painting my calipers and putting everything back together in the coming month, so will let you know soon what I do.

This is my first Viper, and I'm very excited to own this car! I've dreamt of owning one since I was twelve and have been saving up since high school. I graduated college two years ago a got myself a red 2003, in beautiful condition, convertible, 25K miles, all stock. The brakes are my first project to tackle (drilled and slotted rotors, going to paint calipers red with G2, slap a Viper logo, and cover with gloss). I installed Green air filters while waiting for caliper rebuild kits and paint. Next will be to upgrade the sound system, and maybe even a halo lighting system. Maybe way further down the line I may consider more performance parts, but in comparison to my prior cars, my first car was a three speed 355ci '82 Berlinetta Camaro with a 373 differential, headers with straight pipe cutouts (very loud, but very slow and easy to handle), then a six speed '96 Z28 Camaro (quite a bit more power, but I could handle it and only got scared once on a rainy day). Now owning a Viper, I can humbly say this beast bites me every single day, and it is certainly more power than I can handle. I really think it's more of a pretty car than a performance car, so chances are I'll keep it mostly stock and only use it as a cruiser. Granted, I've wanted it since I was twelve, so fingers crossed I don't get too stupid.

[SA Heat]

"I really think it's more of a pretty car than a performance car.....".

You may have bought the wrong car. Be careful. Thanks for the write-up though. It'll be interesting to see if it really works.

[TCurtner]

Had this happen on my Gen 3. I caught it in time and no damage other than an almost worn out inner pad. Only did it on the drivers side on mine. Strange.
Oops...mine too. Just checked today, and pads ordered as inside driver's is....gone. No damage to rotor, as i just heard it squeal when pulling into garage from last outing. How strange this problem!
(hmmmm... i wonder how much weight i could save by removing entire parking brake system and carrying just a couple of plastic chocks??)

[FrgMstr]

"I really think it's more of a pretty car than a performance car.....".

Holy crap, I have heard it all now.

[Vprbite]

All those track records mounted on the wall sure are pretty. I guess I have to agree. : )

[sidwin]

checked mine today and mine are fine. i still ordered a set from chuck. my e brake lifts sky high so perhaps it isn't even doing anything ;)

[viper04blk]

drivers side was nearly gone. Thanks to you guys for posting this. Viper parts rack sent me a replacement set, took 1 day for delivery and half the price of the local dealership.

Now, I need to replace them.

[viper04blk]

This is as far as I got before the sun went down and left me in the dark.

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l326/blkviper04/DSC_0283_zpsnv4r1haf.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/user/blkviper04/media/DSC_0283_zpsnv4r1haf.jpg.html)

Anyone care to share my next step? This is what I am gathering from the posts I have been reading.

I use a center punch and pound out the shaft (Item 1 in the picture)
Remove the brake pads
Rotate the worm-gear tighten mechanism (item 2 in the picture) to allow for the bigger new pad to fit
re-assemble
Never use e-brake ever again

Is the worm gear the only way to make more room for the new pad? Or do I i need to push the piston in like a typical brake pad driven by fluid?

Is that spring going to go flying when I pound out the shaft?

thanks

[The Snake Charmer]

@viper04blk, DONT pound out the brake pad holding pin! There is a very small hair clip holding it in place. Remove the hair clip with needle nose pliers, loosen the spring that surrond the pad holding pin, and then punch out pad holding pin. I broke off my first hair clip and had to buy a variety pack from orielys that contained a small enough one to replace it. Use a standard brake piston reset tool (free rental from autozone) to push the piston back inside the cylinder. Note, the piston isn't like your hydraulic piston, i.e. this piston is "threaded" to a worm shaft. Therefore pressure alone will not "reset" the piston, but it must also twist/spin clockwise as you push. It's the twisting that'll cause it to retract back in the cylinder.

[viper04blk]

thank you kindly.


I replaced my drivers one. I had aprox 1mm of pad left, so i was real close to damaging the rotor. Passenger side is getting done tonight.

BTW, my piston didnt really have to be screwed back in at all. It completed reset itself the last time I used my emergency brake.

[SA Heat]

My drivers side was the same way....passengers side was like new.

[Tom Sessions]

I've taken apart the parking brake and illustrated the mechanisms causing the problem (https://youtu.be/-aYsAh8vYAo). Please let me know if you have any creative solutions. I may use some gasket maker to hold the driven disk in place on the worm shaft.

If you don't watch the video, essentially the service manual tells you how the parking brake operates. It defines mostly all of the parts and how they work together to operate the parking brake. However, the piston assembly (the root of this problem) is not considered a "serviceable part" in the manual. Taking apart the brake assembly is very easy, with the small exception of a putting it back together will require a little effort to carefully force the return spring back in place, which is locked in place via an O-shaped bracket (all housed inside the piston housing and smothered in grease). Side note, there is another mention of an "automatic adjuster" in the service manual pertaining to the parking brake cable and handle housed under the center console inside the car, but this is a complete distraction from the actual problem with the automatic adjuster pertaining to the piston, worm shaft, and driven disk assembly, all housed inside the caliper.

How this assembly works is that when you pull the parking brake cable, it pulls an operating lever attached to the outside of the caliper, and when you release the parking brake, the operating lever return via an operating lever spring (which is outside the caliper). Via more moving parts the lever essentially causes the worm shaft to extend outward and inward via a return spring (these parts are inside the caliper). Threaded to the worm shaft is a driven disk, and this "drives" the piston. Example, pull parking brake handle up (inside car) , which pulls parking brake cable (run under the car), which pulls operating lever (outside caliper), which engages drive disk and return spring (inside caliper), which pushes worm shaft (inside caliper), and threaded to the worm shaft is a driven disk that directly engages piston causing it to extend outward. Now when you release the parking brake, all of these parts work in reverse, with the small exception that the driven disk only very very very slightly moved up the threaded worm shaft, thus causing the piston to not fully retract to the original location, but very very very slightly more outward than before. Obviously this was engineered to compensate for pad wear over time, thus the piston should indeed need to be extended further to engage the pads with the rotor, or else you would have too much slack in the brake line and would need to pull the brake handle up further and further, but if you don't use your parking brake for drifting, then your pads should last forever (excluding the occasional emergency use that would cause them to wear).

Back to the problem, the driven disk that is threaded to the worm shaft. We need a way to keep the driven disk in place. This is where I think gluing it in place is the most plausible solution, but I'd like to hear other ideas. I'll be painting my calipers and putting everything back together in the coming month, so will let you know soon what I do.

This is my first Viper, and I'm very excited to own this car! I've dreamt of owning one since I was twelve and have been saving up since high school. I graduated college two years ago a got myself a red 2003, in beautiful condition, convertible, 25K miles, all stock. The brakes are my first project to tackle (drilled and slotted rotors, going to paint calipers red with G2, slap a Viper logo, and cover with gloss). I installed Green air filters while waiting for caliper rebuild kits and paint. Next will be to upgrade the sound system, and maybe even a halo lighting system. Maybe way further down the line I may consider more performance parts, but in comparison to my prior cars, my first car was a three speed 355ci '82 Berlinetta Camaro with a 373 differential, headers with straight pipe cutouts (very loud, but very slow and easy to handle), then a six speed '96 Z28 Camaro (quite a bit more power, but I could handle it and only got scared once on a rainy day). Now owning a Viper, I can humbly say this beast bites me every single day, and it is certainly more power than I can handle. I really think it's more of a pretty car than a performance car, so chances are I'll keep it mostly stock and only use it as a cruiser. Granted, I've wanted it since I was twelve, so fingers crossed I don't get too stupid.



What I have seen is it is more of a issue with the cable keeps pressure on the caliper which in turn presses the inboard pad against the rotor causing the wear. If it was the adjustment being to tight it would cause wear on both pads and not just one side. If you look closely at the pads when installed on the car you will see a slight air gap betwen the outboard pad and the rotor.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

UPDATE GEN 5: Now that G5 owners have accumulates substantial miles, the reports I have heard from several owners is that GEN 5 INNER EBRAKE PADS are also wearing prematurely. {same caliper as G3-4} So Pay Attention to your inner E-pads, and think twice before habitually yarding on your E-brake handle if you are not at risk of rolling away in gear !!!

We do sell half-sets of Epads for $60, all you need. And you can SWAP outers to inners to double the pad life at no cost.

[swexlin]

UPDATE GEN 5: Now that G5 owners have accumulates substantial miles, the reports I have heard from several owners is that GEN 5 INNER EBRAKE PADS are also wearing prematurely. {same caliper as G3-4} So Pay Attention to your inner E-pads, and think twice before habitually yarding on your E-brake handle if you are not at risk of rolling away in gear !!!

We do sell half-sets of Epads for $60, all you need. And you can SWAP outers to inners to double the pad life at no cost.


Good advice Jon. I don't know how the first owner used the Ebrake in the first 7200 miles, but since I've owned it, the only time the Ebrake is used is after a dealer service, or when I am parking on an extreme incline (which is almost never). I usually just leave the car in gear, and I have a wheel chock I keep with me.

[WestminsterSlim]

Good timing on this thread. I am a habitual e-brake user and I noticed a squeaking from the rear brakes on my 06 last time it was out. Sounds like the driver side. Guess I will be crawling underneath tonight to look and hoping for the best. Am I understanding correctly that the 'fix' at this point is to wind this worm gear on the e-brake caliper back in and just avoid the e-brake?

[viper04blk]

Thats what i did. I hope it was the right thing to do

[Steve M]

Good timing on this thread. I am a habitual e-brake user and I noticed a squeaking from the rear brakes on my 06 last time it was out. Sounds like the driver side. Guess I will be crawling underneath tonight to look and hoping for the best. Am I understanding correctly that the 'fix' at this point is to wind this worm gear on the e-brake caliper back in and just avoid the e-brake?

Even with little to no use of the parking brake on mine, the inner pad still rides on the rotor face while the outer pad does not. It might slow it down some, but I don't think it can truly be entirely eliminated.

[viper04blk]

SteveM, when i swapped my pads i noticed that the pads are designed to always drag a bit. i figure i will keep replacing the pad as they fade. Only solution is to use aftermarket ebrake i think.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

UPDATE: Now that a lot of Gen 5s have some significant mileage on them we are seeing the same issue with the INNER E-brake pads dragging til they die, and start to eat the rotors inside-rear. The problem is "out of sight" until you go look for it. Preventative maintenance on ALL SRT10 Vipers would be to check that inner E-brake pad every 5000 miles or so.....especially of you are a "Habitual" E-brake user..... Yarding on that handle tightens the pads!

You dont have to buy anything, "Once the inner gets thinner"...just swap the inner and outer pads on each side. If its too late, we sell the needed half-a-set of pads for $65.

[WestminsterSlim]

This is on my weekend list. Been putting it off for a bit, but finally going to have the rears off to bleed the system anyways. Intermittent squeaking in the rears when OFF the brakes makes me think I am already dragging. Fingers crossed

[06SRTCoupe]

LMAO...well Jon, it looks like I'll be ordering some pads...and rotors...from you when you get back to work on Monday. I have only had the car about 8 months and less than 3000 miles but the pads are pretty much gone on the inners...and one of the rotors has a slight abrasion on it plus the small squeak. I got :owned: :smilielol:

[FrgMstr]

Hi, my name is Kyle, and I am an e-brake user....

[06SRTCoupe]

Oh...follow up to my previous post. I have not even used the E-Brake that much. I'm guessing the previous owner did 99% of the damage...

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Hi, my name is Kyle, and I am an e-brake user....

Hello Kyle.... still time to make amends.....

[FrgMstr]

Hello Kyle.... still time to make amends.....

Hehe. Yeah, after I torched that set of rear rotors, I don't pull up on that handle very often.

A word of warning to the rest of y'all, my buddies "new" Viper had about 1/16" of pad material on inside rears when he bought it a couple weeks ago. One of the first things I checked on the car when we went to inspect it.

[Vprbite]

I almost never use mine and still I think I am having that problem. Am gonna pull the wheels off here shortly and will fix it then.

And Kyle, it's ok. Growing up we were tought it was just what men did. After a long drive you set the e brake and relaxed. We didn't realize what we were really getting ourselves into. We told ourselves could stop whenever we wanted and that it was no big deal. But we are all here together. To help. And as a group we can manage not to trash our rotors.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Hehe. Yeah, after I torched that set of rear rotors, I don't pull up on that handle very often.

A word of warning to the rest of y'all, my buddies "new" Viper had about 1/16" of pad material on inside rears when he bought it a couple weeks ago. One of the first things I checked on the car when we went to inspect it.

EXACTLY! Out Of Sight, invisibly eating up pad then rotor. Gets spendy. $65 prevent-defense avoids the inevitable on SRTs

[ntw0rk]

So, to clarify... is this possibly the light squeak squeak squeak I hear when driving after the car has warmed up? I don't hear any noises when I first start driving, but after it is hot, I can hear it. Especially when driving home as I pass a wall in our neighborhood. I can't really tell where it is coming from, but my spidey senses say it sounds more like the front of the car.

[Mopar'er no car]

It's been 1 year and 7 months since I've last used. I get cravings and a bit nervous on hills but I've been able to hold out..

[Special Ed]

So, to clarify... is this possibly the light squeak squeak squeak I hear when driving after the car has warmed up? I don't hear any noises when I first start driving, but after it is hot, I can hear it. Especially when driving home as I pass a wall in our neighborhood. I can't really tell where it is coming from, but my spidey senses say it sounds more like the front of the car.

Yes it probably is what your hearing. When I had my Gen3 I had the same noise. I took the e-brake caliper off, reset the pads and never touched the e-brake after that. Never a squeak after that.

[viperBase1]

So has anybody installed the IPSCO Parking Brake Kit (http://www.ipsco.org/Viper_files/parkingbrakekitViper.htm)?
If so whatdaknow?

[Steve M]

So has anybody installed the IPSCO Parking Brake Kit (http://www.ipsco.org/Viper_files/parkingbrakekitViper.htm)?
If so whatdaknow?

Those appear to be for guys with Gen I/II Vipers that upgrade to larger rear brakes and can no longer use the integrated parking brake.

[pokeyl]

Clean Lube No Problems.

https://driveviper.com/forums/threads/20078-PARKING-Brake-Fix

[Tom Sessions]

Clean Lube No Problems.

https://driveviper.com/forums/threads/20078-PARKING-Brake-Fix

The issue is more with the parking brake cable lightly forcing the parking brake caliper towards the rotor then it is the caliper guides sticking. Since it is a full floating caliper that is why the inner pad wears and not the outer pad. Cleaning the slids is always a good idea. But most likely won't fix the issue over the long haul.

[viperBase1]

Those appear to be for guys with Gen I/II Vipers that upgrade to larger rear brakes and can no longer use the integrated parking brake.
Thanks, was curious.


Clean Lube No Problems.
https://driveviper.com/forums/threads/20078-PARKING-Brake-Fix
Thanks Pokeyl. Hadn't seen that post.
I see a socket wrench, a bolt, a spacer, what looks like a shot gun shell (another spacer/the piston?) and a finger pointing at the outside pad.
=> "Get yer Shot Gun and Shoot here".. is that what you're saying? :smilielol:

I imagine a complete tear down, clean and lube would do..


The issue is more with the parking brake cable lightly forcing the parking brake caliper towards the rotor then it is the caliper guides sticking. Since it is a full floating caliper that is why the inner pad wears and not the outer pad. Cleaning the slids is always a good idea. But most likely won't fix the issue over the long haul.
Thanks. Yea, seems to be a multi-faceted issue and the path to least resistance is to (1) Don't use the E-Brake unless necessary and (2) keep eyes on the pad wear and do the maintenance as needed.

Which is what I've been doing ever since I learned about the E-Brake issue not long after I bought the car.
Currently, the pad wear on my car isn't too bad and is fairly even, so I've decided to do nothing for the moment and continue to monitor.

Also, I need to swap my E-Brake Re-Location Brackets side-to-side (if I go with 18" wheels for the track), but might need to remove the belly pan to re-route the cables.
so the plan is to check/do this next time she's up on the lift.

Thanks guys! :cool:

[ViperGTS]

After ~29000 miles I had to swap the pads...inner one almost down to "zero" - outer pad like new. Never use(d) the e-brake. Almost.
Check and swap!

[blankline9]

Stumbled on this thread when I changed the oil about a month ago. Pulled the rear wheels and I'm glad I did. I only pulled the handle a few times since buying the car but who knows how often it was used before I picked it up. The inner pads on both sides were definitely at the point of replacing. Caught it in time, ordered new ones, and swapped outer to inner and put the new ones on the outside. I've got 30k miles on it. Assuming the ones I took off were the original ones since they were stamped brembo and the replacements weren't....but I could be wrong.

[13COBRA]

Stumbled on this thread when I changed the oil about a month ago. Pulled the rear wheels and I'm glad I did. I only pulled the handle a few times since buying the car but who knows how often it was used before I picked it up. The inner pads on both sides were definitely at the point of replacing. Caught it in time, ordered new ones, and swapped outer to inner and put the new ones on the outside. I've got 30k miles on it. Assuming the ones I took off were the original ones since they were stamped brembo and the replacements weren't....but I could be wrong.

Did you screw the cylinder back in the caliper? If not, they'll wear out quite a bit faster than 30k miles.

[JPL]

Does this go for ACR’s as well?

[13COBRA]

Does this go for ACR’s as well?

YES.

Mine were pretty shitty when I finally looked and replaced.

If you haven't looked, I'd tell you to go ahead and order the pads before even looking. lol

[JPL]

Still no permanent fix for this?

[ViperSRT]

Does this go for ACR’s as well?

No, I am sure they put special parking brake systems in ACRs. Unique tail light bulbs also.

[JPL]

No, I am sure they put special parking brake systems in ACRs. Unique tail light bulbs also.

:rolleyes:

[13COBRA]

Still no permanent fix for this?

I think IPSCO made a whole new e-brake caliper.

https://www.ipsco.org/Viper_files/parkingbrakekitViper.htm

[pokeyl]

Is this the solution?

http://www.tsmmfg.com/Drive_Shaft_PB/pinionmountedpar.html


35271

35272

[pokeyl]

OK I cleaned and lubed the slider bolts 2 years ago and I have no problems with uneven wear problems

35282

[99RT10]

OK I cleaned and lubed the slider bolts 2 years ago and I have no problems with uneven wear problems

35282

There is the fix!!!! Thanks Pokeyl!!!

[pokeyl]

https://driveviper.com/forums/threads/20078-PARKING-Brake-Fix?highlight=brake
There is the fix!!!! Thanks Pokeyl!!!

[pokeyl]

Pulled the other side tonight, looks good after 2 years and 6K miles. Parking brake every time, sometimes set for 4 months at a time.

35292

[SA Heat]

Pulled the other side tonight, looks good after 2 years and 6K miles. Parking brake every time, sometimes set for 4 months at a time.

35292

You're definitely getting more wear on the inside....seems like a lot for 6K (typical).

[pokeyl]

You're definitely getting more wear on the inside....seems like a lot for 6K (typical).

Yes, thats from before I cleaned/lubed the calipers. Both side look the same. OEM pads from 2004, 15K total miles on car.

Before I cleaned the outside pad did not touch the rotor as the slider was frozen from Zero grease on the small torx bolt slider.

[SRT_BluByU]

I had both my rear wheels off on my Gen V TA this evening and can report back that after 20k miles of daily driving (using the parking brake each time i turn the viper off) there is no uneven wear on my parking brake pads. All 4 pads have +/- 1/4”-3/16” of friction material remaining.

Im wondering if on the gen iii and gen iv’s, despite the low miles some are reporting, if the age of the grease causes it to break down and the solution lies in (re-)lubricating the slide pins as mentioned above.

Hope that provides a little help in the hunt for a solution.