Any Aftermarket Thermostats

[MellowYellow_GTS]

Do they make any aftermarket thermostats for the Gen V?
Looking to get temps down with maybe a 160 degree thermo? Any options? Search didn't really pull up anything.

Also, side note. I picked up the K&N intake really cheap. Is it worth putting on? I have an Arrow ECU, but haven't installed it yet.
I'm just trying to keep this motor as cool as possible. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Darin

[Steve-Indy]

I think that this a commonly misunderstood concept.

[sadil]

This motor barely has cooling issues on the track. You are not going to have cooling issues on the street. I was tracking this weekend (I am a beginner), ambient was 93F and I didn’t see temps higher than 122C. I was in 2nd and 3rd the whole time. Don’t waste your time trying to cool the engine further. Running cooler is not always better.

I wouldn’t bother with Arrow controller and K&N, I personally think it is a waste. Just drive the shit out of the car as is. Down the road if you want more do the full headers and high flow cats along with tune for some extra juice. When you are ready and if you don’t mind dropping 15k, you have the real performance add in options. The H/C package or 9L is the real next big step in performance. Both combined are monstrous.

[MellowYellow_GTS]

This motor barely has cooling issues on the track. You are not going to have cooling issues on the street. I was tracking this weekend (I am a beginner), ambient was 93F and I didn’t see temps higher than 122C. I was in 2nd and 3rd the whole time. Don’t waste your time trying to cool the engine further. Running cooler is not always better.

I wouldn’t bother with Arrow controller and K&N, I personally think it is a waste. Just drive the shit out of the car as is. Down the road if you want more do the full headers and high flow cats along with tune for some extra juice. When you are ready and if you don’t mind dropping 15k, you have the real performance add in options. The H/C package or 9L is the real next big step in performance. Both combined are monstrous.

Okay cool, thanks! No pun intended haha
So you think the intake and Arrow combo is a waste? Can I ask why?
Sorry, I'm new haha, only had my Viper for 2 weeks. I picked up both the Arrow and K&N for $1,000. Was just looking to squeeze out a little more power, nothing crazy. Probably do a CAT delete also.

[steve911]

The air filter element on the new vipers is extraordinarily efficient, and most of shown that the KN adds little or nothing.

With regards to the aero controller, it’ll cost you a couple hundred bucks to get married up to your car, and then there are the perceived warranty issues the in the event parentheses (God forbid) that you have an engine problem trying to get it repaired Without having a fat wallet.

[ViperGeorge]

Dick Winkles has said putting in a cooler thermostat is a mistake.

[Arizona Vipers]

Okay cool, thanks! No pun intended haha
So you think the intake and Arrow combo is a waste? Can I ask why?
Sorry, I'm new haha, only had my Viper for 2 weeks. I picked up both the Arrow and K&N for $1,000. Was just looking to squeeze out a little more power, nothing crazy. Probably do a CAT delete also.

Do you still have a factory warranty on the car? The Arrow computer will void it. If you dont have a warranty, I highly recommend the Arrow computer just for the sound alone. It changes the car, makes you feel excited everytime you jump in, the sound is that good, especially if you do delete the cats

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[Arizona Vipers]

Bumping this to see if there is a 160* thermostat for our cars. Anyone know a part number?
This would help me at the track, if our cars are pulling timing based on coolant temps in addition to IAT's, I may as well be doing my first lap at 160 instead of 190. Then I can get a lap or two before timing gets pulled.
I just found some 170's on Roe's site- https://www.roeracing.com/product/low-temp-thermostat-1992-2015-dodge-viper-engines/ but no 160*

[kriskyk]

Any thoughts of running an axilary radiator up behind the diff and out the top of the diffuser?

[SilveRT8]

Bumping this to see if there is a 160* thermostat for our cars. Anyone know a part number?
This would help me at the track, if our cars are pulling timing based on coolant temps in addition to IAT's, I may as well be doing my first lap at 160 instead of 190. Then I can get a lap or two before timing gets pulled.
I just found some 170's on Roe's site- https://www.roeracing.com/product/low-temp-thermostat-1992-2015-dodge-viper-engines/ but no 160*

Here you go Arizona
https://theviperstore.com/Viper5_Products_Performance_Cooling.htm
The Viper store lists a 160 and 170 T-Stat and also a Triple Pass Radiator to keep things cool.
Keep up your great work on that 9L !

[kriskyk]

i thought i had read that someone had tried that aftermarket radiator and it did not provide any significant temp differences? I may be completely wrong tho as i cant find that thread..

[Arizona Vipers]

Here you go Arizona
https://theviperstore.com/Viper5_Products_Performance_Cooling.htm
The Viper store lists a 160 and 170 T-Stat and also a Triple Pass Radiator to keep things cool.
Keep up your great work on that 9L !

Thanks dude! I already have the Ron Davis radiator in my 9 liter. My 9 liter runs a lot cooler than my ACR, but hard to tell if it's the radiator, the dry sump with bigger oil cooler, or the removal of the A/C condenser which covers half of the radiator.

[Arizona Vipers]

i thought i had read that someone had tried that aftermarket radiator and it did not provide any significant temp differences? I may be completely wrong tho as i cant find that thread..

I was one of the first people to talk to Ron Davis about making a radiator for our cars, he said he was working on it and wouldn't release it unless his testing showed it helped. He released it, so I'm assuming it helps, he knows radiators as well as anyone in the world. Calvo Motorsports uses them as well

[Dan Cragin]

A cooler thermostat can cause Gen 4-5 cars to go into limp in cold weather. The production radiator cores are very good, its more of an airflow issue.

[Arizona Vipers]

A cooler thermostat can cause Gen 4-5 cars to go into limp in cold weather. The production radiator cores are very good, its more of an airflow issue.

Yeah I wouldn't recommend a 160 for street use. For the track I'm gonna jump 40-50* so may as well start at 160 and not 190. And I agree as well, it's an airflow issue especially with that HUGE A/C condenser.

[sadil]

Arizona,

I think you need a real solution man. Did you remove the front grill? What did Arrow say? Don’t these guys make Dakar race truck V10s? They didn’t have any cool ideas?

[Arizona Vipers]

Arizona,

I think you need a real solution man. Did you remove the front grill? What did Arrow say? Don’t these guys make Dakar race truck V10s? They didn’t have any cool ideas?

I'm not having any overheating issues, those have been resolved. I'm just trying to start my sessions at 160 instead of 190. With a 160 thermostat I can have my oil temps warmed up to operating temps without heat soaking the entire engine bay. Withe the car idling on the grid etc, the temps would actually be over 200 before even getting on the track, so was losing horsepower even on the first lap (I think timing starts getting pulled at 203? Maybe lower I can't find the info now). Looking at my AIM data on the straights, from my first lap to my second lap the trap speeds weren't even similar, these cars just die when they get hot. I run slicks which take a long time to heat up for their fastest lap, so that and a car that pulls timing at 203 coolant temps is not a good combo for ultimate lap times.

[sadil]

I'm not having any overheating issues, those have been resolved. I'm just trying to start my sessions at 160 instead of 190. With a 160 thermostat I can have my oil temps warmed up to operating temps without heat soaking the entire engine bay. Withe the car idling on the grid etc, the temps would actually be over 200 before even getting on the track, so was losing horsepower even on the first lap (I think timing starts getting pulled at 203? Maybe lower I can't find the info now). Looking at my AIM data on the straights, from my first lap to my second lap the trap speeds weren't even similar, these cars just die when they get hot. I run slicks which take a long time to heat up for their fastest lap, so that and a car that pulls timing at 203 coolant temps is not a good combo for ultimate lap times.

You dont even street your car do you? I don't think running a more aggressive thermostat will even matter in your case since you are pushing the car right away and just want your cooling circuit to be open more frequently. Not the same as granny shifting through the streets and letting your car cool too much. The transient high performance duty cycle should be okay. I think at steady state (highway driving) you are going to have an issue of "over cooling". However, if you only gain a 2-3 lap advantage before fully heated, how do you prevent overheating during the rest of the session?

[Arizona Vipers]

You dont even street your car do you? I don't think running a more aggressive thermostat will even matter in your case since you are pushing the car right away and just want your cooling circuit to be open more frequently. Not the same as granny shifting through the streets and letting your car cool too much. The transient high performance duty cycle should be okay. I think at steady state (highway driving) you are going to have an issue of "over cooling". However, if you only gain a 2-3 lap advantage before fully heated, how do you prevent overheating during the rest of the session?

Yeah the cars I'm putting this thermostat in i don't really drive on the street. I only do a few laps anyway, I only care about lap times, doing Nasa time trials mostly unless I'm practicing or trying new parts.