03 won't start

[LATAMUD]

Well,I did a search and have some ideas.

When I turn the key ON I hear the supercharger coolant pump kick on, this is normal. All the gauges on the dash each have a small red light glowing, never noticed this before, don't remember if this is normal. If I remember correctly, turning the key to on should display the voltage and the fuel level as long as both are not zero. Even the temp should display if above a certain temp. All gauges read zero with the little glowing red lights.

When I press the start engine button, I hear the starter/solenoid click, but engine won't turn over. When the start button is pressed, two things stop glowing, the aftermarket shift light and the wideband o2 gauge both blink off then go on again once I let off the start switch. I tested the battery, it was low, 60% so charged it overnight, battery removed from AE while charging. Tested it at 13+v! load tested good! even used a 50Amp jump starter and won't turn over. Leaning towards battery, this one is a 2 year old Everlast Platinum from Sears. I have been having a weak start but I've been easing onto the clutch pedal to engage the neutral safety switch and not going past it, trying to be easy on my clutch master.

My option 2, I'm thinking the starter is toast.

I pulled out the 03 Viper shop manuals out. There's a lot of testing for a "won't start not turning over" symptom. Tested all the fuses and relays. All fuses test good. I swapped all the relays with the horn relay and tested the horn each time, relays good.

Has anyone else experienced/knows what the little red lights lit on all the small gauges means?

I'm taking the battery to Sears tomorrow, but worry they're going to hassle me because it tests good for load and has good voltage.

[Joel]

Just curious. Will the car push start? My first thought is the clutch neutral safety switch but you seem to think it is good. Not likely that you would hear a starter relay if it is not good but I assume you mean the starter solenoid and not the relay. I would next suspect a ground. Sometimes you have a ground that will allow a "light" amp draw but not a draw as much as the starter demands and if this is the car you track, there is a lot of pulling on wires and such. Have you looked at a voltage drop from the battery as you try to start the car or a wire that gets hot as you try to start the car? I know that is hard to do by yourself - those electrons are fast. Just some ideas but I have had grounds fool me more than once - also wires that test good with a "tone" but won't carry any amperage. Last, I'd check the starter and, if you can, give it a rap while someone tries to start the car - preferably on a lift or with the wheels up in the air.

[LATAMUD]

I need to do more tests. The battery tested good at Sears. I have the old neutral safety switch,I might try swapping it out. I'm hoping it's something easy to get to, starter wouldn't be a bad swap.

[daveg]

I would also not use 50 amps from a charger to try and start car.... Heard it could fry the computer...

[LATAMUD]

Okay. Well, pulled the starter and tested it. The gear popped out and spun. So, I'm looking for something between the battery and the starter now. Will be testing switches. I've been told to check the BCM connection under the driver seat. I don't remember seeing anything under the driver seat but will check. Tomorrow will be testing the neutral safety switch, push start button and the ignition switch.

[Joel]

Have you put a voltmeter at the starter to see if the starter solenoid wire is being activated? I guess I should have suggested that first and it must not be if the starter doesn't work but I am confused because you said you could hear the solenoid click. The solenoid is activated by the small wire and you should have battery voltage at the large starter terminal. If it there is battery voltage to the starter but none to the solenoid, you should be able to back track using the wiring diagram from the manual. But you need to look to see where the circuit can be interrupted once you try to start. Sorry to state what must seem obvious - just talking out loud. Hope you find it.

[Mreeves]

Batteries can act good even though they are bad. If it has a bad cell even when using a jump box it may act up. It will test good but still be bad. Try another battery.

[Mamba52]

I had the same problem. Turned out to be a bad ECM. Repaired under warranty.

[LATAMUD]

Have you put a voltmeter at the starter to see if the starter solenoid wire is being activated? I guess I should have suggested that first and it must not be if the starter doesn't work but I am confused because you said you could hear the solenoid click. The solenoid is activated by the small wire and you should have battery voltage at the large starter terminal. If it there is battery voltage to the starter but none to the solenoid, you should be able to back track using the wiring diagram from the manual. But you need to look to see where the circuit can be interrupted once you try to start. Sorry to state what must seem obvious - just talking out loud. Hope you find it.

Have a friend coming out today to get an extra set of hands. There's more I just figured out, will post below.


Batteries can act good even though they are bad. If it has a bad cell even when using a jump box it may act up. It will test good but still be bad. Try another battery.

Agreed, but this Gel Cell Everlast doesn't have cells to die, it's a bunch of plates with a clay-like substance between them. BUT, will be trying another battery.


I had the same problem. Turned out to be a bad ECM. Repaired under warranty.

This is what is scaring me. I don't know if it was you but someone posted on the Alley a few years back and it ended up being the PCM. I plugged in my old OBD2 tester and my SCT to see if I could pull any codes. Both were not able to communicate with the vehicle. I did NOT get a "no codes found" message. I did also use the SCT to check vehicle info, and it could NOT find a vehicle OS. So I'm starting to lean towards the PCM but want to do a few more tests.

[LATAMUD]

It was a fault in the ASD Auto Shut Down wiring. We're still tracking it down but my guys at Vanquish did get the car running. I did some searching on ASD and there seems to be plenty already posted on this subject, all have similar symptoms.