Auto Blip intelligent downshifts

[KB Viper]

has anyone used one of these in a viper? it says it is compatible with our cars.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=82&v=ZmWPuWjSmwA

http://www.rdpstore.com/p-9334-auto-blip-intelligent-downshifts-autoblip-auto-blip.aspx
http://auto-blip.com/auto-blip
Product Overview

The AUTO-BLiP is a new patent pending electronic device that will automatically blip (open) the throttle when downshifting gears on an automobile equipped with a manual transmission and an electronic accelerator pedal system. AUTO-BLiP works by monitoring your automobile’s accelerator pedal position sensor (TPPS), brake pedal, and clutch pedal, and only blips the throttle when both brake and clutch pedals are pressed simultaneously. AUTO-BLiP reduces mechanical wear and tear on manual transmissions, improves vehicle stability when downshifting gears, and eliminates the need for the heel-and-toe driving technique.

Features

Simple connection to your vehicle’s existing sensors. The AUTO-BLiP connects directly to your vehicles throttle pedal position sensor (TPPS), brake pedal switch, and clutch safety interlock switch.
On-the-fly tuning capability made easy via the two face plate mounted dials. By simply turning the dial labeled “DURATION”, the user is able to set the desirable RPM blip level. The “DELAY” dial allows for the addition of a constant time delay from the time a downshift event is sensed to when the unit generates the throttle blip event.
Simple one-time calibration routine for easy interface to your vehicle’s OEM sensors. Once AUTO-BLiP has been properly installed to your vehicle, a six step calibration routine allows it to learn your vehicle’s throttle, brake, and clutch configuration.
Four LEDs display the unit’s functional status. The AUTO-BLiP provides the user with a simple and easy to view status of the brake pedal, clutch pedal, and blip events.
On/Off button mode. By simply toggling the On/Off face plate mounted button, the unit will toggle between the active blip mode and a bypass low power mode.
One unit fits all automobiles. This allows installation of the same AUTO-BLiP unit on multiple vehicles. Simply follow the calibration routine for the new vehicle and you’ll be ready to go. Note: some vehicles may require additional accessories
Will not interfere with your vehicles on-board diagnostics. The AUTO-BLiP has been designed to work with your vehicle’s OEM electronics without causing any engine fault codes
Auto power down mode. The AUTO-BLiP will automatically go into bypass low power mode after 6 hours inactivity.


2008-2010 Dodge Viper
2013+ Dodge Viper
2005-2010 Ford Mustang
2011-2014 Ford Mustang
2015-2016 Ford Mustang
1997-2004 Chevrolet Corvette
2005-2007 Chevrolet Corvette
2008-2013 Chevrolet Corvette
2010-2015 Chevrolet Camaro

AUTO-BLiP Intelligent Downshifts Autoblip

Please in the order notes include your vehicles make, model and year

[ACR]

Ek1 said he heard of issues with it missing blips, however he hasn't properly substantiated his claims

[SNKEBIT]

I bought one. We'll see how it goes this spring.................... :)

[Back In Black]

https://driveviper.com/forums/threads/18803-Blip-Shift-Box

[GTSilver]

Haven't used it although a friend of mine has it and like it. But doing it on your own in terms of heal and toe is way better in regards to driver involvement and much more fun. Honestly I hate it as nowadays no car automakers are providing manual transmission car and I see this in a way of killing the enjoyment and involvement of a manual transmission. Also the viper is one of the easiest cars to heal and toe.

Yousif

[Back In Black]

Haven't used it although a friend of mine has it and like it. But doing it on your own in terms of heal and toe is way better in regards to driver involvement and much more fun. Honestly I hate it as nowadays no car automakers are providing manual transmission car and I see this in a way of killing the enjoyment and involvement of a manual transmission. Also the viper is one of the easiest cars to heal and toe.

Yousif

When you're racing a traditional stick shifted car against a paddle shifted car, every little bit helps.

[GTSilver]

When you're racing a traditional stick shifted car against a paddle shifted car, every little bit helps.

You only down shift under braking I don't see how that will improve timings if you know how to properly heal and toe and good at it. If it was for upshifting without removing your foot of the gas then I'll agree but it isn't a sequential gearbox, and that will need expensive rebuilds if used under racing conditions.

[SilveRT8]

when you're racing a traditional stick shifted car against a paddle shifted car, every little 'blib' helps.

Fixed it for you :)

[ek1]

Ek1 said he heard of issues with it missing blips, however he hasn't properly substantiated his claims

To be clear, I read posts from a few people (driving cars other than Vipers) that the device sometimes misses blips. Meaning it's not 100%. When you are flying around a racetrack, you only need the device to miss one blip. Then you'll need a new car. Or a new you :)

I'll wait and see how SNKEBIT makes out with his.

[KB Viper]

It’s taken me a couple years of practice to get to where I’m at with my heel toe shifts and with the recent addition of the ipsco gas pedal extension it’s gotten much better. I wanted to see if anyone who was a good, old school heel toe shifter has switched to this and what their thoughts were. If there’s any chance of missing the blip then I’ll stick to the old school methods. Thanks for all the replies.

[Back In Black]

You only down shift under braking.....

Well, if you're a master at heel-n-toe and can do it perfectly lap after lap in the heat of the battle, then you can save the $395. For other mere mortals such as myself, it removes one area of possible error out of the equation. I can heal n toe just fine and have been doing it for 10 years. I just prefer to keep my foot squarely planted on the brake pedal and not move it around.

[Back In Black]

It’s taken me a couple years of practice to get to where I’m at with my heel toe shifts and with the recent addition of the ipsco gas pedal extension it’s gotten much better. I wanted to see if anyone who was a good, old school heel toe shifter has switched to this and what their thoughts were. If there’s any chance of missing the blip then I’ll stick to the old school methods. Thanks for all the replies.

Sorry for drifting off topic there. As I mentioned above, I've been doing the heel n toe for a long time and I'm very happy with the Auto-Blip. On the track though. I wouldn't bother with it on the street. Here's a video of a double downshift with the Auto-Blip:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCSqIvXUdLg&feature=youtu.be

[stradman]

Well, if you're a master at heel-n-toe and can do it perfectly lap after lap in the heat of the battle, then you can save the $395. For other mere mortals such as myself, it removes one area of possible error out of the equation. I can heal n toe just fine and have been doing it for 10 years. I just prefer to keep my foot squarely planted on the brake pedal and not move it around.

Who races or battles their Gen V's anyway to worry about milliseconds?? Track days are different. Imv its about fun and enjoyment and doing it yourself is what its all about. Not some electronics doing it for you. I don't understand people saying I can heel and toe fine but... I'd rather not?! What's that about?? I mean its supposed to be intuitive and so when I do it, it just happens. I don't think about it. And that's what anyone should be practising to achieve. It you do it all the time it becomes second nature. I even do it on the street -at a slower rate as the pace is not the same as it is on track. Principal is the same though.
Anyway its a dying art and very few if any younger guys will be learning or have learned this as everything will become automated no matter what anybody says..

[SNKEBIT]

My ankles are getting bad and the left one is fused. I need it. LOL

[GTSilver]

Who races or battles their Gen V's anyway to worry about milliseconds?? Track days are different. Imv its about fun and enjoyment and doing it yourself is what its all about. Not some electronics doing it for you. I don't understand people saying I can heel and toe fine but... I'd rather not?! What's that about?? I mean its supposed to be intuitive and so when I do it, it just happens. I don't think about it. And that's what anyone should be practising to achieve. It you do it all the time it becomes second nature. I even do it on the street -at a slower rate as the pace is not the same as it is on track. Principal is the same though.
Anyway its a dying art and very few if any younger guys will be learning or have learned this as everything will become automated no matter what anybody says..

Cant agree more.

[kaamacat]

I had it on mine... The key(s) are that you A... have the connections on rock-solid or the voltages passing from the 12v to the throttle wires will not sent proper voltage
and you can end up with a CEL. (I had it twice on RoadAtlanta). The "B" part is, you MUST have the clutch pedal to the floor to engage the clutch switch. When the
unit sees BRAKE & CLUTCH it assumes a blip is needed. (I actually wrote the instructions you see out on their website for the Gen5). The unit works quite nicely
though, although I did pull mine out though after the two CELs mid-session. (I am 100% confident that it was my connections, the gator crimps, were not on
tight enough).

If you are not a H&T person (like me with duck-feet), this is a nice alternative. The ability to adjust delay and intensity is nice also.

[Back In Black]

Who races or battles their Gen V's anyway to worry about milliseconds?? Track days are different. Imv its about fun and enjoyment and doing it yourself is what its all about. Not some electronics doing it for you. I don't understand people saying I can heel and toe fine but... I'd rather not?! What's that about?? I mean its supposed to be intuitive and so when I do it, it just happens. I don't think about it. And that's what anyone should be practising to achieve. It you do it all the time it becomes second nature. I even do it on the street -at a slower rate as the pace is not the same as it is on track. Principal is the same though.
Anyway its a dying art and very few if any younger guys will be learning or have learned this as everything will become automated no matter what anybody says..

Good grief. Are you really telling me and others how to enjoy the time in our cars? If we don't do it like you we're doing it wrong? C'mon.

[stradman]

Good grief. Are you really telling me and others how to enjoy the time in our cars? If we don't do it like you we're doing it wrong? C'mon.

Didn't read my post.. Not saying anyone has to do anything. I was just expressing my views and opinions on heel and toeing. . And yes I stand by those. You gotta a problem with those? You're allowed your own views and opinions . Would mean nothing to me but you're still entitled to them and can state them if you want..

[Arizona Vipers]

has anyone used one of these in a viper? it says it is compatible with our cars.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=82&v=ZmWPuWjSmwA







Yeah I put one on my '16 ACR and love it, I'll be putting another one on my 9 liter dedicated track car. The owner of that company lives here and did the install. If it's not working properly my guess is badly soldered connections somewhere. The install job has to be perfect.
The owner is a good dude.

[Arizona Vipers]

Who races or battles their Gen V's anyway to worry about milliseconds?? Track days are different. Imv its about fun and enjoyment and doing it yourself is what its all about. Not some electronics doing it for you. I don't understand people saying I can heel and toe fine but... I'd rather not?! What's that about?? I mean its supposed to be intuitive and so when I do it, it just happens. I don't think about it. And that's what anyone should be practising to achieve. It you do it all the time it becomes second nature. I even do it on the street -at a slower rate as the pace is not the same as it is on track. Principal is the same though.
Anyway its a dying art and very few if any younger guys will be learning or have learned this as everything will become automated no matter what anybody says..

You could also pull your ABS fuse if you really want to show off your analog racing skills ;)
For me, fun is always being the fastest car at every event I go to, so I'll take all the help I can get

[Back In Black]

Didn't read my post.. Not saying anyone has to do anything. I was just expressing my views and opinions on heel and toeing. . And yes I stand by those. You gotta a problem with those? You're allowed your own views and opinions . Would mean nothing to me but you can still say them if you want..

I don't have a problem with you or anyone else heel n toeing. It's a valuable skill for someone driving a manual shift vehicle and when I'm at the track I encourage people to learn how to do it when they're ready to make that step. But it sure sounds to me like you have a problem with someone using a blip box. I read your post and your message was pretty clear. "I don't understand people saying I can heel and toe fine but... I'd rather not?! What's that about??" Doesn't sound very understanding to me but whatever.

Look, the OP's original question was "has anyone used one of these in a viper? it says it is compatible with our cars." He then went on to ask "I wanted to see if anyone who was a good, old school heel toe shifter has switched to this and what their thoughts were." Not "would you use one of these in your Viper?" or "What are you thoughts on heel n toe vs. using a blip box?" Like most threads, this one has gone way off topic and I'm guilty of getting sucked in.

To the OP: The Auto-Blip works very well. If you decide to try one, make sure your electrical connections are solid like kamakaat says. Don't trust those crimp on wire taps. I realize they make the install easier and faster but they're not reliable enough in my opinion.

Cheers.

[512BB]

I bought the Viper specifically because it did NOT have that :-)

[Back In Black]

I bought the Viper specifically because it did NOT have that :-)

But you're okay with traction control?

[sadil]

Why are we bickering lol. Who cares. OP, do it, I am sure you will not regret it! You have the extra power and aggressive tune so it will likely be very useful.

As for the HT guys, I am with you, I prefer HT. I love the engagement. I like to think of downshifting as its own art.

[KB Viper]

i'm sticking with heel toe shifting. i came across it and threw it out there and good a lot of good info.

[IHOP]

After seeing Az Viper's ACR with it, I was sold. I understand heel/toe shifting is a technique that has been around for may years however it was important back then because they didn't have technology like this or the even faster paddle shifters. Like Az Vipers said he wants to get the best lap time every event he goes out to. That's my goal as well but with the Autoblip it will allow me much more time to concentrate on the line I take around the track and shortening my braking distances. I've noticed like many other track guys/galsI'm sure have that in straight line on a track other cars can compete or even pass a stock Viper. So I find myself braking later and passing in corners where I can run most of the other cars down. The owner/creator is a highly trained computer engineer and he began his work on Sport Bikes with this device. It is a quality product but really good installation is key. You can reach out to the inventor with any questions about the product or install question.

[Boba Fett]

I had one installed in my 07 ZO6. Tracked a few times. Never missed one shift and worked flawlessly. Maker was there to help with tech. You can always install and use as/when you like. The units are equipped with on and off options. I wouldn’t let some dinosaurs in here persuade you not to use if u think it will enhance your pleasure.

If u do decide, make sure to have a good installer that knows what they’re doing. I believe that’s where the difference is between those who have had missed shifts and those who haven’t.

[Dr.Ron]

As I mentioned earlier, I had mine on my 2009 & 2011 C6Z06's and it worked flawlessly.
You could however miss a shift if you don't fully depress the clutch, or if you have the clutch depressed and release the brake, then brake again. Then you won't get a blip.

I installed it on my 14 GTS & I had a problem initially of having the 2 accelerator wires reversed. I swore I followed the directions precisely, but when I had it blip, the throttle remained wide open. I called Andres who knew the problem right away. The Viper installation was much harder than the Z06. Andres told me to go to an installer to fix it and HE took care of it.

The installer was great. I had a CEL after & the car went into limp mode. This was a bad connection. It reappeared & the installer again corrected. This time he soldered & while I was there he double checked the engine bay connections & discovered 1 was loose. He secured and I haven't had another problem since....all at no charge. (I tipped him $20 each time though).

I got the Auto-Blip because I was trying to heel-toe on track and go fast at the same time and I found when I didn't heel-toe properly it was outright DANGEROUS!
I figured nowadays most cars on track have rev matching built in so why shouldn't I have it too. The $395 was money well spent for me. I refused to blow 3-4 track days learning to heel-toe and going slower while wasting $1200 & STILL having to perform a perfect heel-toe when I can spend $395 and have the car do it for me 100% perfectly EVERY SINGLE time. It was a no brainer.

Just my $.02
Ron

[512BB]

But you're okay with traction control?

I turn traction control/stability management off in all my cars when I drive.

[Snorman]

A friend who is a pro-driver and I were once discussing manual transmissions vs. DCT's. His comment was whatever allowed him to focus his attention on car control and the line was worth having. At his level, one second is worth $1-million.
If somebody wants to rely on traditional heel-toe or use an auto-blipper, enjoy your choice! A friend is running one of these on his ACR-E and loves it.
S.

[ViperGeorge]

Posted this on both threads.

I tried to install the Auto Blip today. Took the seat out but still access to the wires requires that you are some kind of contortionist. I gave up for now. Would removing the knee panel below the steering wheel help with access to the wires?? Anyone know how to do that?

[13COBRA]

A friend who is a pro-driver and I were once discussing manual transmissions vs. DCT's. His comment was whatever allowed him to focus his attention on car control and the line was worth having. At his level, one second is worth $1-million.
If somebody wants to rely on traditional heel-toe or use an auto-blipper, enjoy your choice! A friend is running one of these on his ACR-E and loves it.
S.

After reading this, I decided to pull the trigger and order one!

[bassplayrr]

After reading this, I decided to pull the trigger and order one!

Looking forward to hearing what you think of it. I’m right on the brink of pulling the trigger.

[13COBRA]

Looking forward to hearing what you think of it. I’m right on the brink of pulling the trigger.

Might as well pull it when the discount is still available... $350.

That was my line of thinking anyways.

[Arizona Vipers]

Posted this on both threads.

I tried to install the Auto Blip today. Took the seat out but still access to the wires requires that you are some kind of contortionist. I gave up for now. Would removing the knee panel below the steering wheel help with access to the wires?? Anyone know how to do that?

I had the owner of Auto Blip (who has installed hundreds) do mine and he said the Viper was a BITCH. Took him all day.

[Dr.Ron]

Posted this on both threads.

I tried to install the Auto Blip today. Took the seat out but still access to the wires requires that you are some kind of contortionist. I gave up for now. Would removing the knee panel below the steering wheel help with access to the wires?? Anyone know how to do that?

I don't recall doing that, but it might make things easier. Moving the pedals also may help.


Looking forward to hearing what you think of it. I’m right on the brink of pulling the trigger.

It is great! One less thing to worry about.


Might as well pull it when the discount is still available... $350.

That was my line of thinking anyways.

You'll really like it once you dial it in.


I had the owner of Auto Blip (who has installed hundreds) do mine and he said the Viper was a BITCH. Took him all day.

Andres is great to deal with. Yes, unless you're 5'8" & 150 lbs, better to pay someone else!
I did mine myself and it WAS a bitch. When one of the wires came loose, I refused to waste any more of my time to fix it and paid one of his sellers/approved shops. I even drove almost 2 hours each way to them. That's how much of a bitch that install was. It was well worth the drive! lol

Ron

[ek1]

I don't recall doing that, but it might make things easier. Moving the pedals also may help.



It is great! One less thing to worry about.



You'll really like it once you dial it in.



Andres is great to deal with. Yes, unless you're 5'8" & 150 lbs, better to pay someone else!
I did mine myself and it WAS a bitch. When one of the wires came loose, I refused to waste any more of my time to fix it and paid one of his sellers/approved shops. I even drove almost 2 hours each way to them. That's how much of a bitch that install was. It was well worth the drive! lol

Ron

Ron, where is the shop in case I ever decide to install it?

[13COBRA]

You'll really like it once you dial it in.


Ron

How do you have yours set?

[Dr.Ron]

Ron, where is the shop in case I ever decide to install it?
TK Autosports. They're located just outside the fence at NJ Motorsports Park. Great guys. TJ is the owner. If you go, tell them Ron with the black Viper recommended them to you. They've helped me out with a few things.
http://www.tkautosports.com/


How do you have yours set?

0 delay.
As for the rpm to blip, I'd have to look, but I set it more by feel initially.

Ron

[13COBRA]

0 delay.
As for the rpm to blip, I'd have to look, but I set it more by feel initially.

Ron

Thanks Ron. Where did you end up mounting yours. I'm between mounting it up above the rear-view mirror, or in the center console.

[Dr.Ron]

Down under the steering wheel just off to the right, on that panel. Out of sight and out of the way but reachable.
I used industrial velcro.

Ron

[13COBRA]

Down under the steering wheel just off to the right, on that panel. Out of sight and out of the way but reachable.
I used industrial velcro.

Ron

Thanks Ron. I may have to place it somewhere else, as it's already fairly cramped down there with my bigger legs haha

I'll check it out though. Thank you for your help! I would be interested to hear what you have the rpm blip set to.

[Dr.Ron]

I'll try to take a look when I have a chance. I haven't driven the car since like October! It's sitting covered on a tender in the garage in front of my snow blower. lol
Every chance I could have driven it (weather permitted) I had something else to transport or do or something. 1st time ever that all winter I didn't drive my fun car.

Ron

[13COBRA]

I'll try to take a look when I have a chance. I haven't driven the car since like October! It's sitting covered on a tender in the garage in front of my snow blower. lol
Every chance I could have driven it (weather permitted) I had something else to transport or do or something. 1st time ever that all winter I didn't drive my fun car.

Ron

I feel your pain. Mine's been in the garage since October as well, minus a couple of trips to my shop, but it was trailered.

[ViperGeorge]

I just received the service manual for the 2017 Viper. Looking at the instructions to remove the steering wheel opening cover (this is the panel below the steering wheel where your knees are) it does look like it would be much easier to install the Autoblip if this panel is removed. You should get better access to pedal wires. My back is tweaked from the last attempt so I will have to wait to try it.

To remove the panel:
1: Disconnect negative battery cable.
2: Partially remove door weather strip at bottom.
3: Starting from the rear pull up on plastic sill trim that runs along seat's side. Remove trim from vehicle.
4: Unscrew two bolts at bottom of panel.
5: Pull cover rearward to release clips.
6: Lower panel slightly to route tab away from A pillar trim.
7: Disconnect wire connectors
8: Unfasten Powernet block fasteners and set aside.
9: Remove cover from vehicle.

Reinstall following the opposite procedure.

[Dr.Ron]

Not sure about "much" easier, but it might help. You still need to get WAY up in there to get to the harnesses that you need to.

[IHOP]

After hearing AZ Vioer's story about how tight things are I've asked someone else to install mine also. But I've seen it on his car and this thing is killer!

[ViperGeorge]

Not sure about "much" easier, but it might help. You still need to get WAY up in there to get to the harnesses that you need to.

I'm not positive but based on feeling the inside with the panel on, removal might allow you to get your hand(s) in there without trying to work from underneath. Well that's the hope anyway.

[Dr.Ron]

I'm not positive but based on feeling the inside with the panel on, removal might allow you to get your hand(s) in there without trying to work from underneath. Well that's the hope anyway.

:dude3:

[13COBRA]

Putting mine in Saturday morning!

[Dr.Ron]

Good luck! Report back on your install experience.

[Exhlr8n]

I second that, please report back. Thanks

[13COBRA]

Good luck! Report back on your install experience.


I second that, please report back. Thanks

I will.

I'm going to mount the unit above the rearview mirror...out of the way, but still within reach before I harness up. I don't like having things down by my legs. I have my bluetooth OBDII reader plugged in and it sometimes bugs me.

EDIT: For what it's worth, I'm going to solder it in, not use the wire taps.

[38D]

EDIT: For what it's worth, I'm going to solder it in, not use the wire taps.

The best way is to use a high quality crimp splice. This is how aircraft, F1, and NASA wiring is done. Not cheap for the tooling, but worth it to have it done right IMO.

https://www.milspecwiring.com/Raychem-Mini-Seal-Splices-Medium-Blue_p_683.html
https://www.milspecwiring.com/RAYCHEM-MINI-SPLICE-CRIMPER-TOOL_p_700.html

[ViperGeorge]

The best way is to use a high quality crimp splice. This is how aircraft, F1, and NASA wiring is done. Not cheap for the tooling, but worth it to have it done right IMO.

https://www.milspecwiring.com/Raychem-Mini-Seal-Splices-Medium-Blue_p_683.html
https://www.milspecwiring.com/RAYCHEM-MINI-SPLICE-CRIMPER-TOOL_p_700.html

The link for the splice is for a "medium". What size would we need for the Autoblip installation? Any idea? Keep in mind one side of the splice would have two wires going in while the other one.

Also what is the best way to strip insulation off without cutting the wire? Or should we cut the wires and then use the splice?

[sharmut]

@ViperGeorge - The blue splice indicates (SPLICE FIT MILSPEC WIRE SIZED 16-20AWG). I imagine the auto-blip wires are no larger than 16awg (likely 18awg), which falls into the spec fo the blue splice.

[ViperGeorge]

@ViperGeorge - The blue splice indicates (SPLICE FIT MILSPEC WIRE SIZED 16-20AWG). I imagine the auto-blip wires are no larger than 16awg (likely 18awg), which falls into the spec fo the blue splice.

Thanks, but I wonder if it would handle two wires (of say 18awg) on one side and the one wire on the other. What do 2 18awg wires equate to? A 14 maybe or a 12? No idea.

[13COBRA]

I'm going to solder, still.

[Dr.Ron]

I'm going to solder, still.

I had a connection issue after a while & once it was soldered it was fine.

[ViperGeorge]

I'm going to solder, still.

Yea, I should solder as well except I really suck at it. Never did learn how to do it properly.

How do you strip the wires in the Viper harnesses without cutting them? Is there some kind of tool for that? I have wire strippers that can easily strip a wire at the end but not in the middle as would be necessary unless you cut the wire and then solder it back together.

[Dr.Ron]

You can use a razor blade, carefully.

[Back In Black]

Yea, I should solder as well except I really suck at it. Never did learn how to do it properly.

How do you strip the wires in the Viper harnesses without cutting them? Is there some kind of tool for that? I have wire strippers that can easily strip a wire at the end but not in the middle as would be necessary unless you cut the wire and then solder it back together.

I used my stripper to score the jacket in two places about 1/2" apart and then used a sharp razor to slice the jacket between those points. Then peel it off. Be very careful not to cut any of the strands with the stripper. Or your fingers with the razor. :)

[38D]

To figure out the effective gauge of multiple wires, you need a simple calculator like this https://www.wirebarn.com/combined-wire-gauge-calculator_ep_42.html

If you feel like geeking out on high quality Motorsports wiring, this is a great primer: https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html. Things like concentric twist and Service loops are what make a really high quality harness.

You don’t want to just strip a wire mid harness. You find the wire in question, cut it, strip both ends, and then use a splice to rejoin with the additional wire. Trying to use a razor blade and not nick any of the strands is nearly impossible. Will it work? Probably. But over time, vibration and corotion will eventually find a way to have that section fail. If you must use the solder method, use a good glue lined heat shrink to help stabilize the area.

[13COBRA]

(Gen IV)

I pulled the kick panel, and can easily unplug the clutch, brake and accelerator wires. I'm going to get it all put together tomorrow morning. Looks like a very simple install, no need to pull the seat. I'm a fairly good sized guy (6'1" 205) and won't have any problems.

[ek1]

(Gen IV)

I pulled the kick panel, and can easily unplug the clutch, brake and accelerator wires. I'm going to get it all put together tomorrow morning. Looks like a very simple install, no need to pull the seat. I'm a fairly good sized guy (6'1" 205) and won't have any problems.

Please take as many pics as you can, a lot of people will benefit from this if they decide to install it.

[darbgnik]

Please take as many pics as you can, a lot of people will benefit from this if they decide to install it.

No doubt!

[13COBRA]

Please take as many pics as you can, a lot of people will benefit from this if they decide to install it.

I'll do my best. It's really simple once the kick panel is removed!

[13COBRA]

Super easy install. It was really hard for me to get any pictures worth a shit. If I had removed the seat, I would've had much better access. The hardest wire to connect to was the clutch sensor because it was buried in the dash, the accelerator and brake were simple though. Whole install and calibration took 40 minutes. I decided to use the wire taps that were sent with the kit, knowing that I may have to solder them at some point; but after looking at it carefully, I don't think it needs to be soldered.

The instructions were to a T, and simple to follow. Calibration was a breeze. Took it out for a quick test run, and bam! Worked like a champ! I'm about a month out from my first track day.

31435

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31437

[ViperGeorge]

Super easy install. It was really hard for me to get any pictures worth a shit. If I had removed the seat, I would've had much better access. The hardest wire to connect to was the clutch sensor because it was buried in the dash, the accelerator and brake were simple though. Whole install and calibration took 40 minutes. I decided to use the wire taps that were sent with the kit, knowing that I may have to solder them at some point; but after looking at it carefully, I don't think it needs to be soldered.

The instructions were to a T, and simple to follow. Calibration was a breeze. Took it out for a quick test run, and bam! Worked like a champ! I'm about a month out from my first track day.

31435

31436

31437

I'm impressed. I like where you mounted the controller. If you were in Colorado I'd buy the beer for help with the install.

When you say the clutch wire was buried under the dash. The instructions say to run a wire through the firewall and tap the switch behind the left sill.

[13COBRA]

I'm impressed. I like where you mounted the controller. If you were in Colorado I'd buy the beer for help with the install.

When you say the clutch wire was buried under the dash. The instructions say to run a wire through the firewall and tap the switch behind the left sill.

Gen V and Gen IV instructions are a little differently, I didn't look through the Gen V instructions.

The clutch wire on the Gen IV is about directly under the far left air vent on the dash. It's tucked pretty far up in there. The brake and accelerator were super quick and easy.

I really feel like it's an easy install.

[Racingswh]

I'm about a month out from my first track day.

Nice!! I like your controller mount position as well. Looking forward to hearing how it works for you on the track!!

[ViperGeorge]

Gen V and Gen IV instructions are a little differently, I didn't look through the Gen V instructions.

The clutch wire on the Gen IV is about directly under the far left air vent on the dash. It's tucked pretty far up in there. The brake and accelerator were super quick and easy.

I really feel like it's an easy install.

Yea, apparently they moved the clutch switch in a Gen 5 requiring you to route a wire through firewall. Getting to the Gen 5 clutch switch is challenging because it is behind the sill and under a bunch of stuff.

[13COBRA]

Nice!! I like your controller mount position as well. Looking forward to hearing how it works for you on the track!!

I can't wait. I'm not a professional driver by any means, but I feel like my heel-toe is above average...and this thing already feels faster and smoother. I can't wait to start comparing lap times.


Yea, apparently they moved the clutch switch in a Gen 5 requiring you to route a wire through firewall. Getting to the Gen 5 clutch switch is challenging because it is behind the sill and under a bunch of stuff.

Gotcha. That would pose a little more time to complete the install.

[sharmut]

31437

Is that your ODB2 adapter hanging above the clutch pedal? If so, when I used a KIWI3 adapter, I looked into the ODB2 extension or splitter. Since switching to the Racelogic VBOX HD2, it came with a low profile right angle connector that tucked away. Only hang up, I have to unplug it whenever I need to connect an ODB2 scanner for troubleshooting. There are splitters available connect in between.
Extension:
https://www.amazon.com/Diageng-Profile-Right-Extension-Ribbon/dp/B00EECXAY8/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520712473&sr=1-3-fkmr0&keywords=odb2+extender+right+angle

Splitter:
https://www.amazon.com/Diageng-Low-Profile-Splitter-Cable/dp/B00HJAMBI8/ref=sr_1_9_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520712473&sr=1-9-spons&keywords=odb2+extender+right+angle&psc=1

[13COBRA]

Is that your ODB2 adapter hanging above the clutch pedal? If so, when I was a a KIWI3 adapter, I looked into the ODB2 extension or splitter. Since switching to the Racelogic VBOX HD2, it came with a low profile right angle connector that tucked away. Only hang up, I have to unplug it whenever I need to connect an ODB2 scanner for troubleshooting. There are splitters available connect in between.
Extension:
https://www.amazon.com/Diageng-Profile-Right-Extension-Ribbon/dp/B00EECXAY8/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520712473&sr=1-3-fkmr0&keywords=odb2+extender+right+angle

Splitter:
https://www.amazon.com/Diageng-Low-Profile-Splitter-Cable/dp/B00HJAMBI8/ref=sr_1_9_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520712473&sr=1-9-spons&keywords=odb2+extender+right+angle&psc=1

Yes sir. It's really not bad, it's zip-tied on and I haven't had any issues with it in it's current position.

[sharmut]

That's good to hear.

[Dr.Ron]

Gen V and Gen IV instructions are a little differently, I didn't look through the Gen V instructions.

The clutch wire on the Gen IV is about directly under the far left air vent on the dash. It's tucked pretty far up in there. The brake and accelerator were super quick and easy.

I really feel like it's an easy install.

That's because you didn't have to deal with the wire that runs into the engine bay! Lucky for you!
I took my seat out when I installed mine. I'm 6'2" 205lbs & the access was VERY uncomfortable and awkward for me. My install took about 4 hours in all. Believe it or not, it took me about 15 minutes just to figure out how to maneuver the seat out of the car. lol

That engine bay wire was a real bitch due to no slack and limited room and access.

The ones under the dash weren't all that bad. The clutch one was the worst as you mentioned as it is tucked high up there.

If I had to do it all over again I definitely would pay someone else to do it!

Ron

[13COBRA]

Haha when I put my roll bar in, removing the seats physically out of the car was the hardest part as well. They're barely small enough to squeeze out.

[kriskyk]

Dumb question, does the clutch have to be pressed all the way against the floor for it to register on the autoblip or can you still short stroke the clutch?

[13COBRA]

Dumb question, does the clutch have to be pressed all the way against the floor for it to register on the autoblip or can you still short stroke the clutch?

Not dumb, that was my biggest concern. I haven't been on track with it yet, but just from a little street driving it feels like you have to engage it further than I used to in order to get it to function, but I don't feel like like it's all the way to the floor.

[Back In Black]

Dumb question, does the clutch have to be pressed all the way against the floor for it to register on the autoblip or can you still short stroke the clutch?

It requires the same amount of travel as when you start the car. You might be able to hear an audible click when the switch closes.

[13COBRA]

It requires the same amount of travel as when you start the car. You might be able to hear an audible click when the switch closes.

You must have better ears than me..haha

[Dr.Ron]

You can usually reduce the travel slightly during the calibration process by trying to NOT depress the clutch to the floor while calibrating. Start out by only going down as far as YOU like it and try to calibrate. If it accepts it you are good. If not, depress it a tiny bit more & repeat until the unit accepts the clutch position.

Ron

[13COBRA]

You can usually reduce the travel slightly during the calibration process by trying to NOT depress the clutch to the floor while calibrating. Start out by only going down as far as YOU like it and try to calibrate. If it accepts it you are good. If not, depress it a tiny bit more & repeat until the unit accepts the clutch position.

Ron

GREAT suggestion! I hadn't even thought of that.

[Back In Black]

You can usually reduce the travel slightly during the calibration process by trying to NOT depress the clutch to the floor while calibrating. Start out by only going down as far as YOU like it and try to calibrate. If it accepts it you are good. If not, depress it a tiny bit more & repeat until the unit accepts the clutch position.

Ron

How does this work? The clutch switch is a closed/open switch right?

[13COBRA]

How does this work? The clutch switch is a closed/open switch right?

Yes.

He's talking about when you train the Auto-Blip device. It tells you in the instructions to press the clutch to the floor and hold it. He's suggesting to slowly lower the clutch until it engages the clutch switch and hold it there; it may train an inch or so off of the floor.

Instead of pressing the clutch all the way down, he's simply saying to find the very highest engage point for the clutch switch, and train the Auto-Blip that, that position is the floor.

[Back In Black]

Yes.

He's talking about when you train the Auto-Blip device. It tells you in the instructions to press the clutch to the floor and hold it. He's suggesting to slowly lower the clutch until it engages the clutch switch and hold it there; it may train an inch or so off of the floor.

Instead of pressing the clutch all the way down, he's simply saying to find the very highest engage point for the clutch switch, and train the Auto-Blip that, that position is the floor.

Auto-Blip is simply looking for a trigger. Once the clutch switch is closed, it doesn't matter to the Auto-Blip how much farther you press the pedal. The only way you can change the distance you have to press the pedal would be to move the switch closer to the pedal. I don't know if there's any adjustment there. Or, add material to the pedal where it contacts the switch.

[13COBRA]

Auto-Blip is simply looking for a trigger. Once the clutch switch is closed, it doesn't matter to the Auto-Blip how much farther you press the pedal. The only way you can change the distance you have to press the pedal would be to move the switch closer to the pedal. I don't know if there's any adjustment there. Or, add material to the pedal where it contacts the switch.

I understand that. I guess I was just leaning towards the idea of maybe there is a small delay from when the clutch switch is engaged, to the Auto-Blip working; almost as a safety mechanism.

[Arizona Vipers]

I understand that. I guess I was just leaning towards the idea of maybe there is a small delay from when the clutch switch is engaged, to the Auto-Blip working; almost as a safety mechanism.

There is, the auto blip has a built in delay dial. It can be instant, or delayed for about 1 second and anywhere in between.

[13COBRA]

There is, the auto blip has a built in delay dial. It can be instant, or delayed for about 1 second and anywhere in between.

Yes, I know that. I was questioning whether or not it has a built in delay, even with the dial turned to 0.

It's moot point, even if there was a built in delay, it won't blip until the clutch switch is engaged.

[ViperGeorge]

You can also buy the IPSCO clutch pedal extension. It raises the pedal slightly so you don't have to push it all the way to the floor for the Autoblip to work.

[SilveRT8]

I just installed the IPSCO clutch pedal extension on mine, but I dont feel comfortable with it, pedal now seems too high when at rest.
Maybe I'll give it some time and play with the fore-aft pedals ajustment. Also installed the gas pedal extension, and this feels better to do the heal & toe.

[kriskyk]

[QUOTE=ViperGeorge;340964]You can also buy the IPSCO clutch pedal extension. It raises the pedal slightly so you don't have to push it all the way to the floor for the Autoblip to work.[/QUOTE

I don't think that would actually shorten the required travel, it just brings the peddle closer to you and travels the same distance?

[kriskyk]

For those that have it, What duration and delay settings are you using?

[13COBRA]

For those that have it, What duration and delay settings are you using?

From what I've seen, the duration is set to 40-50% of the dial (left to right), and the delay is minimal. Depends on how quickly you shift.

[Back In Black]

For those that have it, What duration and delay settings are you using?



https://driveviper.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=31263&d=1519864608&thumb=1

[Dr.Ron]

This is a general question and not only to Back In Black.
I'm curious why would anyone intentionally want a delay.
I find that when I clutch in, there is actually a slight inherent delay even with the delay dial set to zero...so why would you want even more of a delay?
Don't you clutch in only when you are going to make a shift?

Ron

[13COBRA]

This is a general question and not only to Back In Black.
I'm curious why would anyone intentionally want a delay.
I find that when I clutch in, there is actually a slight inherent delay even with the delay dial set to zero...so why would you want even more of a delay?
Don't you clutch in only when you are going to make a shift?

Ron

I think it really just depends on how quickly and comfortably you can switch gears. My delay is set just a little less than his, but that's with 0 track time at this point.

[Back In Black]

This is a general question and not only to Back In Black.
I'm curious why would anyone intentionally want a delay.
I find that when I clutch in, there is actually a slight inherent delay even with the delay dial set to zero...so why would you want even more of a delay?
Don't you clutch in only when you are going to make a shift?

Ron

I don't necessarily want a delay, that just happens to be the setting that works best for me and allows for a perfect rev match. Remember that all ECU's are not calibrated the same when it comes to throttle response. We have 9L's out there now, Mopar PCM's, stock PCM's, ACR-X PCM's, HPTuners, etc.

[13COBRA]

Very good point.

I haven't seen many 9.0Ls on the track, have you?

[sadil]

Experiences and thoughts regarding the system? What was the final verdict for those who bought them?

[kriskyk]

I'm happy with mine... and I'm a bit of a perfectionist

Only drawbacks is it uses the clutch interlock switch as the trigger to blip in combination with the brake pedal. I wired a separate contact switch as I don't swing the clutch fully when shifting.

Also you will get varying opinions on this.....wire taps have no place in Motorsports wiring...I solder and sealed all my connections

Lastly the owner is super great to work with should you have any functional and or technical questions.

Make sure you really read the instructions and triple check your wiring as it can be a bit miss leading....I believe there was a thread on the details of this...I don't recall the specifics

[sadil]

Thanks for the reply,

Curious, how did you wire the extra contact switch? What type of contact switch? Thanks.


I'm happy with mine... and I'm a bit of a perfectionist

Only drawbacks is it uses the clutch interlock switch as the trigger to blip in combination with the brake pedal. I wired a separate contact switch as I don't swing the clutch fully when shifting.

Also you will get varying opinions on this.....wire taps have no place in Motorsports wiring...I solder and sealed all my connections

Lastly the owner is super great to work with should you have any functional and or technical questions.

Make sure you really read the instructions and triple check your wiring as it can be a bit miss leading....I believe there was a thread on the details of this...I don't recall the specifics

[ViperGeorge]

I'm happy with mine... and I'm a bit of a perfectionist

Only drawbacks is it uses the clutch interlock switch as the trigger to blip in combination with the brake pedal. I wired a separate contact switch as I don't swing the clutch fully when shifting.

Also you will get varying opinions on this.....wire taps have no place in Motorsports wiring...I solder and sealed all my connections

Lastly the owner is super great to work with should you have any functional and or technical questions.

Make sure you really read the instructions and triple check your wiring as it can be a bit miss leading....I believe there was a thread on the details of this...I don't recall the specifics

I've had an autoblip sitting in the box for almost a year. The idea of wiring it up is daunting given the tight quarters under the dash. I did order some special electrical taps that are supposed to work well. I think they are called posi taps or something. I can't even remember where I put the damn things.

[sadil]

sounds like you need someone to take it off your hands loll (pick me pick me)

In all seriousness, I think if you went ahead and remove the suede trim under the steering wheel, the whole process is much easier.


I've had an autoblip sitting in the box for almost a year. The idea of wiring it up is daunting given the tight quarters under the dash. I did order some special electrical taps that are supposed to work well. I think they are called posi taps or something. I can't even remember where I put the damn things.

[ViperGeorge]

sounds like you need someone to take it off your hands loll (pick me pick me)

In all seriousness, I think if you went ahead and remove the suede trim under the steering wheel, the whole process is much easier.

Thanks, I'll take that under advisement. Actually I have thought I would remove the panel under the steering wheel. Maybe I'll get to it in the next couple of weeks.

[kriskyk]

You won't need to remove that pannel but you will have to remove the seat. Once your under there you can unclip parts of the factoy harness to make it easier to splice into and then reinstall as it was

[kriskyk]

Thanks for the reply,

Curious, how did you wire the extra contact switch? What type of contact switch? Thanks.

Any 12v switch will work as the autiblip will callibrate for it when you go through the setup process. Mines actually attached to a strain gauge on the shifter that triggers my pneumatic clutch and then the autoblip

[Arizona Vipers]

It works well, does it what is says it does! I prefer not to use it, I have one for sale but have to get it taken off my ACR. I can't fit under there lol. Even my skinny short mechanic had a really hard time.

[Dr.Ron]

I love mine. No need to worry about heel-toe being done correctly, which I never could master.
I used mine on my C6Z06 when I had that and moved it to the Viper when I got it. Works well on both!

And the customer service is EXCELLENT! I had an minor wiring issue and he sent me to a local installer shop and paid for the correction no questions asked.

Ron

[Exhlr8n]

I have a new one in the box, never installed. I was going to put it in the ACR-E but decided not to. The Comp Coupe has an EMCO so, don't need it.

Let me know if anyone is interested.

Thanks,

Tom

[housemouse]

I have a new one in the box, never installed. I was going to put it in the ACR-E but decided not to. The Comp Coupe has an EMCO so, don't need it.

Let me know if anyone is interested.

Thanks,

Tom

Tom, I'm interested. let me know.

Thanks

[sadil]

I’m interested as well.

[Exhlr8n]

Thanks guys, I sent a PM

[Dman]

I second the soldering vs taps. I’m on numerous boards since i have numerous toys, and it’s been a staple of tips and tricks on these to solder vs taps for reliability.

I have the factory rev matching on my new ZR1 and it’s taken getting used to since I’ve been heel/toe for decades. I like it I think. I’ve always found heel/toe so easy on the vipers it’s never been a thing to consider. The GT500 is another story, it’s a little tricky on the heel/toe and I have wondered about an install on it. But my race car class doesn’t allow it, so I actually prefer having to do it myself to always be in practice ... since a bad heel/toe in the race car and the ass will be in front of me, lol.

[housemouse]

same with the porsches now. my gt3 touring, no lift upshift or downshift and it automatically matches and somehow through programming doesnt let the revs jump up. definitely took some getting used to.

[8400cc]

I would imagine most people naturally press the pedal in more when downshifting versus upshifting for obvious reasons, so maybe it wouldn't be an issue. Is there anyone that has successfully managed to make the unit "learn" a lesser distance of clutch pedal travel to get the Blip unit to engage ?

[Back In Black]

I would imagine most people naturally press the pedal in more when downshifting versus upshifting for obvious reasons, so maybe it wouldn't be an issue. Is there anyone that has successfully managed to make the unit "learn" a lesser distance of clutch pedal travel to get the Blip unit to engage ?

No. The clutch interlock switch is either closed or open. It's a simple trigger. The only thing you can do is install a different switch in a different position.

I don't need the full pedal travel to downshift so I put a micro switch at the top front of the pedal lever so it triggers after ~1" of pedal travel. One of the problems I'm having is under very hard braking, the pedal moves enough on it's own to trigger the auto blip. There's enough free travel in the pedal combined with the inertia from decel to disengage the switch. The second problem is on a two gear downshift, it won't trigger on the second pedal press I assume for the same reason. The pedal isn't returning far enough to remake the switch. I'm going to look at possibly installing another spring to keep the pedal at the top of it's throw and see how that goes. The pedals being adjustable makes it difficult to come up with a solution.

[8400cc]

Possibly a happy medium, if possible change the microswitch so after 3 inches of travel the blip engages, so that under braking the early blip doesn't happen. The double shift is a little trickier I imagine.

[Back In Black]

Possibly a happy medium, if possible change the microswitch so after 3 inches of travel the blip engages, so that under braking the early blip doesn't happen. The double shift is a little trickier I imagine.

Not with the switch I'm using. I would need one with a longer trigger arm. Or some kind of a sliding switch with a plunger.

[sharmut]

Shame it isn't tie to the ODB2/CANBUS. My VBOX HD2 log fed from the CANBUS data is aware of the clutch position at halfway and fully depressed. Wonder if Doug(DSE) can make a module to pull all the data via CANBUS to make a complete plug-play AUTO-BLIP system.

[Back In Black]

Shame it isn't tie to the ODB2/CANBUS. My VBOX HD2 log fed from the CANBUS data is aware of the clutch position at halfway and fully depressed. Wonder if Doug(DSE) can make a module to pull all the data via CANBUS to make a complete plug-play AUTO-BLIP system.

I would love to know how that works when there is only one switch.

[sharmut]

Perhaps the switch is variable and not a simple toggle.

[kriskyk]

As an option, you could also use the cruise control disable switch which activates at the very top to the clutch pedal travel. When using this switch, you would want to add additional delay to the blip to ensure the clutch is released when the blip happens.

Contact Andre at AutoBlip for details...

[Back In Black]

As an option, you could also use the cruise control disable switch which activates at the very top to the clutch pedal travel. When using this switch, you would want to add additional delay to the blip to ensure the clutch is released when the blip happens.

Contact Andre at AutoBlip for details...

Now that's a real possibility! Totally slipped my mind that GenV's have cruise control.:t0135: I bet that's what sharmut is seeing on the CAN bus.

[Arizona Vipers]

When I had mine, I had the owner install it at his house as he lives here in Arizona. He told me he was working on a true rev-match system. That was a couple years ago. Maybe he's getting close... Instead of just one size fits all blip, it would blip based on gear, speed, etc. My son's Civic Type R has true rev match and it's really cool

[sharmut]

When I had mine, I had the owner install it at his house as he lives here in Arizona. He told me he was working on a true rev-match system. That was a couple years ago. Maybe he's getting close... Instead of just one size fits all blip, it would blip based on gear, speed, etc. My son's Civic Type R has true rev match and it's really cool

I'm not sure where he will source the data to determine which gear is engaged on the Viper. My research with a Racelogic team member, who had a channel into SRT motorsports, indicated that data is not present on the CANBUS nor a sensor present. Racelogic provided an alternate option, via a match-channel calculation based on RPM and SPEED to determine the likely gear. Took a few iterations of sending logs back and forth to get pretty close.

[kriskyk]

Thoughts how the skip shift lockout works then?

[sharmut]

Thoughts how the skip shift lockout works then?

That's a good question, I imagine that decision can be derived from the vehicle speed and engine rpm data to trigger a solenoid that activates the mechanical gate.

[Back In Black]

Shame it isn't tie to the ODB2/CANBUS. My VBOX HD2 log fed from the CANBUS data is aware of the clutch position at halfway and fully depressed. Wonder if Doug(DSE) can make a module to pull all the data via CANBUS to make a complete plug-play AUTO-BLIP system.


I would love to know how that works when there is only one switch.


Perhaps the switch is variable and not a simple toggle.

Well, it sounds like it is. I spoke to Victor from Complete Performance Motorsports this past weekend about the AutoBlip with the GenV and he said there indeed is a wiper type switch on the clutch pedal and that they are able to trigger the AutoBlip at whatever position (pedal throw) they want on that switch. Good news for you GenV guys. Now to see if I can retro-fit that switch on my Gen4 pedal.

[kriskyk]

Once you figure this out do you mind posting back You're findings?

[sharmut]

Took me ~5-6 hours but managed to install the autoblip along with the TKO ThrottleMAX and completed the autoblip calibration in my Gen V. I didn't want to perform soldering while under the soldering iron and decided to use 20-22 awg t-taps from Amazon. The taps offer 2 contact points for the inline connection and 1 to the new feed. Performed a test outside the vehicle with a continuity meter, while moving the tap and connected wires to be good at all times. Hoping they will hold up long term. The clutch connection in the engine bay could be problematic long term, because of the heat.

40210

Crimped disconnects to the autoblip leads.
40211

Will see how well they hold up next weekend. What I found most challenging was access to the brake pedal harness. The connector lead to the harness is very short limiting extension to a few inches and couldn't position myself to be able to reach with both hands. Tried to access it by removing the knee boolster(see image below). While I can see the connector at the pedal, reaching it through the limited space didn't work for me. Not sure if the harness from the brake pedal switch feeds into connectors circled in red, if so that would be the easiest location to tap into. Would be great if someone has a service manual with the wiring information to confirm.
40214
I may take another stab at soldering the connections but will need to figure out a way to reach the soldering points without being underneath it and possibly drop excess solder on myself. Worst case, I'll cover myself and lay face up to make the solder connection.

I wanted to verify my accelerator pedal connections are good and started the motor. At idle, when I apply the clutch and brake, the "blip" light blinks, which seems normal, except the throttle doesn't jump. Is this normal when at idle? Do I need to actually drive it to get the throttle to move?

[kriskyk]

You can unclip most of the under-dash harness and work with everything on the floor. That's how I ended up soldering everything up.


No that is not normal did you try adjusting the amount of RPMs on the autoblip unit?

[sharmut]

You can unclip most of the under-dash harness and work with everything on the floor. That's how I ended up soldering everything up.
No that is not normal did you try adjusting the amount of RPMs on the autoblip unit?

Did you make your connections near the pedal or found a better spot to tap into?

I actually ran out of time, only turned the RPM dial a bit and didn't notice a difference. I'll try increasing RPM dial. If that doesn't work, I'll disconnect the TKO ThrottleMAX, recalibrate the autoblip and retest.

[kriskyk]

Near the pedal like the instructions

[sharmut]

Problem solved, bad connections to the accelerator lines. Soldered the red and green lines from the Autoblip to the 2 & 5 lines at the ThrottleMAX input side connector.
40224

[sadil]

Following this! This will be an awesome mod (throttle plus blip). Can’t wait to hear your results.

[kriskyk]

Can't see the image or attachment

[sharmut]

To anyone using the ThrottleMAX with an AutoBlip. When tapping into the accelarator pedal, make sure you connect the AutoBlip red and green lines closest to the pedal side. I made the mistake of tapping on the output side of the throttleMAX while it worked, it also caused my dash to go blank briefly when the AutoBlip blips the throttle.
This is the output side connector:
40240

This is the connector to solder:
40241
Here's another perspective of the connector:
40242

[kriskyk]

Hey Sharmut, so if I already have the autoblip installed and working is the ThrottleMax still plug and play?

[13COBRA]

Hey Sharmut, so if I already have the autoblip installed and working is the ThrottleMax still plug and play?

Yes. Super easy!

[sharmut]

Hey Sharmut, so if I already have the autoblip installed and working is the ThrottleMax still plug and play?

Not exactly, because your existing accelerator lines (red & green) from the AutoBlip is currently tapped on the car side harness, which means it will be on the output side of the ThrottleMAX, which as I discovered you don't want.
You need to change the AutoBlip lines to tap the input side of the ThrottleMAX, towards the pedal connector. The 2nd and last image is the connector you want to tap to. The process is easier since you can do the solder work outside the car and plugin after. In the 3rd pic, you'll notice the 2-pin connector, the autoblip side has the male version of that connector.

I'm going to try and locate the factory connectors for the brake pedal and clutch so I can make short harnesses for both.

[kriskyk]

Thanks Sharmut!

Also the connector part numbers are listed in the manual under the wiring section

For example

40245

[ViperGeorge]

Not exactly, because your existing accelerator lines (red & green) from the AutoBlip is currently tapped on the car side harness, which means it will be on the output side of the ThrottleMAX, which as I discovered you don't want.
You need to change the AutoBlip lines to tap the input side of the ThrottleMAX, towards the pedal connector. The 2nd and last image is the connector you want to tap to. The process is easier since you can do the solder work outside the car and plugin after. In the 3rd pic, you'll notice the 2-pin connector, the autoblip side has the male version of that connector.

I'm going to try and locate the factory connectors for the brake pedal and clutch so I can make short harnesses for both.

Wait, say that again. Do I understand you correctly - if I buy the Max Throttle the Autoblip install is easier because you can do the soldering for the accelerator without having to lay under the dash? But the brake circuit still needs to be tapped under the dash unless you find the correct connectors and make a short harness which could then be connected to the Autoblip off the car. Is this correct? If I got this right then buying the Max Throttle is even a better idea. I had tried to install the Autoblip with my seat out but I gave up. Had to see my Chiropractor after that.

[sharmut]

Thanks Sharmut!

Also the connector part numbers are listed in the manual under the wiring section

For example

40245

Thanks kriskyk. That looks like the clutch connector. Do you happen to have information on the brake switch connector?

I'm heading back to the track on Thursday and Friday. I'm starting out with the ThrottleMAX at 20% and the Autoblip duration at 900 RPM. Hopefully, it will take no more than a session to dial-in and get acclimated to the new setup.

[kriskyk]

That was actually the oil pressure sender connector

Here's what you're looking for specifically

40246

40247

[sharmut]

Thank you. Much appreciated.

[viperBase1]

Giving the Auto-Blip a serious look for the GenIV.

Really dig the Rev-Matching in the Porsche, so if I can have it in the Viper too that'd be awesome.

Was telling a gear head friend about this and he had a question. What happens if Auto-Blip is engaged and you shift to neutral?
Apparently, in his manual 370Z this would result in a dangerously high RPM rev..

I understand the discussion above about calculating the current gear via data on the OBDII/CAN buss (my SOLOdl collects that data for the RaceStudio Analysis app.)
But it doesn't sound like Auto-Blip uses that data (yet).

Wondering if the upcoming TKO Rev-Matching unit will. TKO?

Thanks.

[13COBRA]

Giving the Auto-Blip a serious look for the GenIV.

Really dig the Rev-Matching in the Porsche, so if I can have it in the Viper too that'd be awesome.

Was telling a gear head friend about this and he had a question. What happens if Auto-Blip is engaged and you shift to neutral?
Apparently, in his manual 370Z this would result in a dangerously high RPM rev..

I understand the discussion above about calculating the current gear via data on the OBDII/CAN buss (my SOLOdl collects that data for the RaceStudio Analysis app.)
But it doesn't sound like Auto-Blip uses that data (yet).

Wondering if the upcoming TKO Rev-Matching unit will. TKO?

Thanks.

It does rev, but not ridiculously high.

In order to get the Auto-Blip to work, you have to depress the brake, then shift down (clutch). If you clutch and shift to neutral, then brake, you wouldn't get the rev.

I've had it on for about a year and never had an issue.

[viperBase1]

It does rev, but not ridiculously high.

In order to get the Auto-Blip to work, you have to depress the brake, then shift down (clutch). If you clutch and shift to neutral, then brake, you wouldn't get the rev.

I've had it on for about a year and never had an issue.
Thanks Cobra.

You have to brake AND push the clutch way in..hmmmm.. maybe too track oriented for us right now.

Thanks again.

[13COBRA]

Thanks Cobra.

You have to brake AND push the clutch way in..hmmmm.. maybe too track oriented for us right now.

Thanks again.

You really don't have to push the clutch far down, and it doesn't have to be hard breaking, you just have to depress it a little to trip the sensor.

It's very streetable, but in reality if it's just going to be on the street, I wouldn't see the need for it.

[hydronos]

Anyone in the socal area willing to help me install the blip module this weekend?

[Tay]

Anyone in the socal area willing to help me install the blip module this weekend?

Just a heads up,

I had the Autoblip installed by a professional shop and it never really worked right. At the track it wouldn't let me switch gears or rev past a certain rpm or something like that I can't remember, but we ended up removing it right then and there.

I have been patiently waiting foe TKO Motorsports to release their version, but its been about a year I think since they mentioned they are releasing one.

[sadil]

Just a heads up,

I had the Autoblip installed by a professional shop and it never really worked right. At the track it wouldn't let me switch gears or rev past a certain rpm or something like that I can't remember, but we ended up removing it right then and there.

I have been patiently waiting foe TKO Motorsports to release their version, but its been about a year I think since they mentioned they are releasing one.

Complete Motorsports already has a great plug-in kit. No cutting wires. I installed mine before they released theirs.

I used my AutoBlip last year for 6 track days and it worked great, I probably have 2 hours of run time on it and I never had an issue. Great feature to have on heavy downshifts. Sure you don't have a wiring issue? Its not the easiest install for a DIY but it should be easy for a shop to do.

[Lawineer]

Was there a consensus on this? Revmatch on my C7 was awesome and it made the car more fun. It also adds a ton of life to your clutch and can save you from a very expensive "money-shift"

[Tay]

Complete Motorsports already has a great plug-in kit. No cutting wires. I installed mine before they released theirs.

I used my AutoBlip last year for 6 track days and it worked great, I probably have 2 hours of run time on it and I never had an issue. Great feature to have on heavy downshifts. Sure you don't have a wiring issue? Its not the easiest install for a DIY but it should be easy for a shop to do.

I'm really not sure about wiring issues. It was a few years ago. Autoblip worked great on my Mustang. It just would act up on the Viper.

Good to know about the Complete Motorsport kit. I will look into it.

Thanks!

[LuvSpeed]

I had an auto blip installed and it never worked out for me. Would throw codes and cut power even after multiple iterations. Just took it off my car a few weeks ago. If somebody wants one extremely cheap, p.m. me. You might be surprised at the price I’ll let it go. I have dealt with Complete Motorsports for other things. Great company. Btw, my wife loves their Viper Girl shirt for anybody wanting a gift idea. She has 2 of them.

[13COBRA]

I had an auto blip installed and it never worked out for me. Would throw codes and cut power even after multiple iterations. Just took it off my car a few weeks ago. If somebody wants one extremely cheap, p.m. me. You might be surprised at the price I’ll let it go. I have dealt with Complete Motorsports for other things. Great company. Btw, my wife loves their Viper Girl shirt for anybody wanting a gift idea. She has 2 of them.

I had the same issue at first. It's because the wire was connected on the wrong side of a sensor. I don't remember 100% which wire, BUT, as soon as I switched it, it worked great.

[sadil]

I'm really not sure about wiring issues. It was a few years ago. Autoblip worked great on my Mustang. It just would act up on the Viper.

Good to know about the Complete Motorsport kit. I will look into it.

Thanks!

My post sounds like I installed some pre-production version of the Complete Motorsports kit. Just to be clear, I still have my AutoBlip and I followed the install on some Viper specific instructions I have floating around. I bought it used.

[Tay]

My post sounds like I installed some pre-production version of the Complete Motorsports kit. Just to be clear, I still have my AutoBlip and I followed the install on some Viper specific instructions I have floating around. I bought it used.

No problem. I knew what you meant.

Do have any other info on the Complete Motorsports kit? They dont have a website and only have a Facebook which had nothing about their rev match kit.

[sharmut]

The Complete Motorsports kit is made by xineering. When I spoke to them last year, they indicated the throttle connection is plug-n-play, but the brake switch signal requires taping into the switch. I found this to be the hardest connection to reach and terminate.
https://www.xineering.com/dbw.html

I suggest reaching out to TKO motorsports to determine how far along are they on their unit.

[Tay]

The Complete Motorsports kit is made by xineering. When I spoke to them last year, they indicated the throttle connection is plug-n-play, but the brake switch signal requires taping into the switch. I found this to be the hardest connection to reach and terminate.
https://www.xineering.com/dbw.html

I suggest reaching out to TKO motorsports to determine how far along are they on their unit.

Thanks for the info sharmut.

I know Xineering makes good stuff.

I have reached out to TKO a few times. In July and again in November. In November, Marty said they were very close to it being ready. So hopefully sooner than later.

[Rich Wesorick]

I have the latest Xineering set-up from Complete Motorsports and it works great on the track. I also had them install an on/off toggle switch so I can turn it off when daily driving, which is really nice because the throttle blips when parking etc (clutch and brake depressed) can be annoying...

[sharmut]

I have reached out to TKO a few times. In July and again in November. In November, Marty said they were very close to it being ready. So hopefully sooner than later.

Glad to hear, can't wait to see what they came up with. Last time I spoke to Marty, the goal was a complete plug-n-play unit. I hope to see something with a basic potentiameter style adjuster, similar to the auto-blip and avoid any dependencies for a laptop to make changes.