Gen 4 Supercharger

[Shalviin]

Is there any place that sells a supercharger kit for gen 4s? I am thinking of getting my 2009 some more power in the next year or so (hopefully about 750 whp). Also, is a gen V intake manifold a decent upgrade for the cost? I am getting one for 1050.00. Used, of course. Appreciate any feedback!!

[Shalviin]

Lol!


:fpopcorn:

[Redx]

Paxton kit under development at the moment(Viper exchange/arrow racing collaboration), bank on removing the engine and replacing the pistons if you want more than 700whp

[Stealth78]

There is but I'm trying to remember who put it out. I know Justin from JMB Performance (who is very talented and has been great to deal with in the past) had a lot to do with the development of it but I'll have to look back. It is a Pro-Charger, clearly you would need to upgrade the internals of your engine prior to making this upgrade though.

[Stealth78]

https://driveviper.com/forums/threads/16238-Procharged-Gen-IV-Viper-complete-937-WHP-on-E85?highlight=Supercharger

[Redx]

There is but I'm trying to remember who put it out. I know Justin from JMB Performance (who is very talented and has been great to deal with in the past) had a lot to do with the development of it but I'll have to look back. It is a Pro-Charger, clearly you would need to upgrade the internals of your engine prior to making this upgrade though.

JMB does, but very reluctant to sell the kit without having the car present, which is a major turn off. Also required with this kit is a standalone, add $8-10k for motec/infiniti.

[Shalviin]

Thank you!! I was hoping the entire kit with the blower and all would be under 15k. Looks like that would probably not happen. Lol. I guess I will just go the Gen V intake, headers, and Mopar ecu route for now and settle for a 'measly' 600rwhp'ish.

[13COBRA]

Thank you!! I was hoping the entire kit with the blower and all would be under 15k. Looks like that would probably not happen. Lol. I guess I will just go the Gen V intake, headers, and Mopar ecu route for now and settle for a 'measly' 600rwhp'ish.

Gen IV power is expensive.

I have the Gen V intake, custom headers/exhaust, MOPAR ecu and a few other little upgrades; my car put down 624/603.

Dyno numbers don't really mean anything though. You could have 20-25 rwhp variation depending on day, temperature, dyno, etc.

Do you track yours, or is it just for the street?

[Shalviin]

Just for street. I dont do the tracks. For me, a consistent dyno over 600 would be ideal. Especially with my budget.



Gen IV power is expensive.

I have the Gen V intake, custom headers/exhaust, MOPAR ecu and a few other little upgrades; my car put down 624/603.

Dyno numbers don't really mean anything though. You could have 20-25 rwhp variation depending on day, temperature, dyno, etc.

Do you track yours, or is it just for the street?

[Shalviin]

Damn. For that money, I might as well upgrade to a Gen V. Or sell mine and get a gen 3.

[13COBRA]

Just for street. I dont do the tracks. For me, a consistent dyno over 600 would be ideal. Especially with my budget.

I gotcha.

If you're wanting to feel the power, throw some 3.55s in and do the above mods.

[Shalviin]

Only problem with 3.55s is I gotta drive about 450 miles and leave the car for a few days to get it done by someone who knows about viscoloks on this gen. So that will have to be planned out really well, with the wife and kids and all! And two seats in the viper dont help either. Lol. Unless someone here knows someone in Northern CA who knows about these?



I gotcha.

If you're wanting to feel the power, throw some 3.55s in and do the above mods.

[v10viperbox]

Gen IV power is expensive.

I have the Gen V intake, custom headers/exhaust, MOPAR ecu and a few other little upgrades; my car put down 624/603.

Dyno numbers don't really mean anything though. You could have 20-25 rwhp variation depending on day, temperature, dyno, etc.

Do you track yours, or is it just for the street?


Similiar mods here

I have the ported intake, custom headers/exhaust, race cats, ported heads, MOPAR ecu and a few other little upgrades; 664/642 on the Dyno. With 355 gears as well and the OS Giken I have never once wanted more power.

[Shalviin]

Nice! Do you recomment a ported gen 4 intake manifold or swapping to gen 5?


Similiar mods here

I have the ported intake, custom headers/exhaust, race cats, ported heads, MOPAR ecu and a few other little upgrades; 664/642 on the Dyno. With 355 gears as well and the OS Giken I have never once wanted more power.

[RPM9000]

One advantage to the GenV manifold is that it doesn't heat soak as much as an aluminum manifold and it weighs less.

[13COBRA]

Similiar mods here

I have the ported intake, custom headers/exhaust, race cats, ported heads, MOPAR ecu and a few other little upgrades; 664/642 on the Dyno. With 355 gears as well and the OS Giken I have never once wanted more power.

Killer dyno numbers.

[Shalviin]

Thank you!


One advantage to the GenV manifold is that it doesn't heat soak as much as an aluminum manifold and it weighs less.

[v10viperbox]

Killer dyno numbers.

Its more then likely the Dyno and the day we did it. Air was cold so IT temps were really good and no slipping on the Dyno. In the real world if it puts 630-640 to the wheel on 91 I am happy. I cannot drive the thing past 3/10ths anyway on the street. Track it is a much better car as I can keep the RPM's up a bit more. The cam transition RPM is brutal in my car for some reason, I swear it picks up like 100hp just on that alone by feel.

FYI

The only difference between a 600whp and a 1000whp Viper is the size of the owners wallet. I cannot get enough traction even with what I have. If you are drag racing or doing Texas mile I could see the need for more power. But for NA is so much reliable then boost. Just makes much less power for the same money. Personally I would just do mild bolt-ons and spend the money for a better LSD and 3.55 gears. The 3.55 at least when I did it on my gen III completely changed the character of the car.

[Shalviin]

Its more then likely the Dyno and the day we did it. Air was cold so IT temps were really good and no slipping on the Dyno. In the real world if it puts 630-640 to the wheel on 91 I am happy. I cannot drive the thing past 3/10ths anyway on the street. Track it is a much better car as I can keep the RPM's up a bit more. The cam transition RPM is brutal in my car for some reason, I swear it picks up like 100hp just on that alone by feel.

FYI

The only difference between a 600whp and a 1000whp Viper is the size of the owners wallet. I cannot get enough traction even with what I have. If you are drag racing or doing Texas mile I could see the need for more power. But for NA is so much reliable then boost. Just makes much less power for the same money. Personally I would just do mild bolt-ons and spend the money for a better LSD and 3.55 gears. The 3.55 at least when I did it on my gen III completely changed the character of the car..

Great point!! Noted. :)

[Jknappster]

I looked at a prototyoe at Viper Exchange. Very clean install.

[Stealth78]

JMB does, but very reluctant to sell the kit without having the car present, which is a major turn off. Also required with this kit is a standalone, add $8-10k for motec/infiniti.

No shit, honestly did not know that. I thought they were able to do it through HPT now. Agreed that would get pricey!

[Stealth78]

I've got 3:55's and a GenV intake that will both be getting installed by spring (car away now), really hoping these two done at the same time will be a noticeable difference, tuning too.

[v10viperbox]

I've got 3:55's and a GenV intake that will both be getting installed by spring (car away now), really hoping these two done at the same time will be a noticeable difference, tuning too.

The 3.55 change is one of the most dramatic things you can do to Viper. It really changes the whole car. I have a few people I know locally who have done it and decided no more modifications.

It is my personal opinion though that if you go FI or above 650-680whp and you are not on the track that you skip the 3.55 upgrade ;eave the stock gearing and just put in a OSGiken and upgraded shafts. You will have ZERO traction on the street unless you are running 40 tread wear tires and you are replacing them all the time.

[Shalviin]

I think imma do the following (and in order):
Rear wing
Front splitter and canards.
3.55's (once I figure out who in Northern CA can successfully do them! Or find a used Gen V rear diff)
Gen V intake manifold
Mopar ECU
Headers.
With my trickle of play money, this will take AT LEAST two years. Lol.

[13COBRA]

I think imma do the following (and in order):
Rear wing
Front splitter and canards.
3.55's (once I figure out who in Northern CA can successfully do them! Or find a used Gen V rear diff)
Gen V intake manifold
Mopar ECU
Headers.
With my trickle of play money, this will take AT LEAST two years. Lol.

With the aero, you will need to upgrade the suspension if you are planing on going 90mph+. The added downforce will be too much for your current suspension.

[Shalviin]

With the aero, you will need to upgrade the suspension if you are planing on going 90mph+. The added downforce will be too much for your current suspension.

I rarely drive over 90mph for more than a few seconds at a time. But if I see the stock suspensions taking a hit too frequently, i will do that mod after all else is done.
Btw, you guys know if a mopar ecu from a gen 4 acr will work on my gen 4 coupe? All I need to do is take it to a dealer and get the mileage sync'd and stuff? Coz apparently the vin cannot be changed, right?

[Redx]

I rarely drive over 90mph for more than a few seconds at a time. But if I see the stock suspensions taking a hit too frequently, i will do that mod after all else is done.
Btw, you guys know if a mopar ecu from a gen 4 acr will work on my gen 4 coupe? All I need to do is take it to a dealer and get the mileage sync'd and stuff? Coz apparently the vin cannot be changed, right?

Yes, as long as both cars are coupes. Can’t interchange between coupe and vert because of window drop.

Be warned though, if you want to go arrow tune after, you will have to buy a new mopar pcm, arrow won’t put there tune on a married ecm that wasn’t originally paired to your vin.

[Shalviin]

Thank you. After my googling, I think I will go with a HP Tuner setup. Only because they allow us to change the tune in order to pass smog. Or am I missing something here?

QUOTE=Redx;327273]Yes, as long as both cars are coupes. Can’t interchange between coupe and vert because of window drop.

Be warned though, if you want to go arrow tune after, you will have to buy a new mopar pcm, arrow won’t put there tune on a married ecm that wasn’t originally paired to your vin.[/QUOTE]

[Redx]

With a mopar pcm you can swap back and forth, prob easier than loading tunes.

[Shalviin]

Wont it throw a CEL while on the stock ECU with the intake manifold and headers with hi flow cats installed?


With a mopar pcm you can swap back and forth, prob easier than loading tunes.

[Redx]

If you run mm headers, no it won’t, they have anti foulers built in, not to mention still catted. I ran my car for about 100km on stock pcm(waiting for arrow tune), g5 Im, mm’s with cat delete, and it didn’t throw a code.

[Shalviin]

Good to know! You say mm headers with cats wont throw a code. But yours are catless and they still havent thrown a code? That would be sweet if I could go catless on stock ecu without a code.

QUOTE=Redx;327282]If you run mm headers, no it won’t, they have anti foulers built in, not to mention still catted. I ran my car for about 100km on stock pcm(waiting for arrow tune), g5 Im, mm’s with cat delete, and it didn’t throw a code.[/QUOTE]

[Redx]

Good to know! You say mm headers with cats wont throw a code. But yours are catless and they still havent thrown a code? That would be sweet if I could go catless on stock ecu without a code.

QUOTE=Redx;327282]If you run mm headers, no it won’t, they have anti foulers built in, not to mention still catted. I ran my car for about 100km on stock pcm(waiting for arrow tune), g5 Im, mm’s with cat delete, and it didn’t throw a code.[/QUOTE]

Yes. I’m sure the mm guy can chime in here. I’ll also be selling a mm/custom tig’d race exhaust here shortly, I’m going big next year.

[ViperCobra]

I have M&M headers on my S/C 06 Vert with no cats just straight pipes with full exhaust, don’t have any codes. I had my 06 tuned by Todd at A&C performance and also had him installed his A&C cam, no issues at all.

[Shalviin]

How much will you sell those for? So i can start begging my 'boss'. Lol

Yes. I’m sure the mm guy can chime in here. I’ll also be selling a mm/custom tig’d race exhaust here shortly, I’m going big next year.[/QUOTE]

- - - Updated - - -

Nice!!


I have M&M headers on my S/C 06 Vert with no cats just straight pipes with full exhaust, don’t have any codes. I had my 06 tuned by Todd at A&C performance and also had him installed his A&C cam, no issues at all.

[Stealth78]

I would love to know how or why you guys aren't throwing codes. I have hi-flo cat'd mids and Corsa, stock manifolds! I have cleared the catalyst inefficiency codes 3 or 4 times and finally gave up. I will remedy the issue with tuning after the intake goes on.

[v10CodeMonkey]

I'm running ACR-X (ARH) headers, hi-flo cats, stock muffler and no codes on my 08. Ran it that way on stock ECU for a year or two, now with the Arrow.

[Shalviin]

I would love to know how or why you guys aren't throwing codes. I have hi-flo cat'd mids and Corsa, stock manifolds! I have cleared the catalyst inefficiency codes 3 or 4 times and finally gave up. I will remedy the issue with tuning after the intake goes on.

That is what I have heard in the community too- that it will throw a light with hi flows in a gen 4. There must be a 'trick' we dont know yet. Lol.

[SatinBlueG3]

I had the same issue on my Gen 3 until I put foulers in. Not sure if there would be a difference between the Gen 3 and 4 when it comes to this topic.

[Stealth78]

I'm running ACR-X (ARH) headers, hi-flo cats, stock muffler and no codes on my 08. Ran it that way on stock ECU for a year or two, now with the Arrow.

I wonder what the unknown variable is here? Does it matter on the type of hi-flo's? I wonder if because you ran the stock mufflers if that retains enough back pressure? My mids are 3" and my Corsa is clearly the full 3", not the 2.5" into 3".