1996 GTS Door lock switch lights stay on when i close the doors and never turn off

[slitherv10]

Any solutions?

[Steve-Indy]

You may have a failing EEM(Electronic Entry Module). What ever the cause, that situation will drain the battery fairly quickly.

Is your alarm still responding with the fob? Have you set the alarm, then opened the hatch or hood to see if the fob actually set the alarm when it locked the doors?

Admittedly, I have seen one 1996 GTS with the above circumstance...all of which resolved with a new car battery.

There are several steps to take to sort all of the above.

[slitherv10]

You may have a failing EEM(Electronic Entry Module). What ever the cause, that situation will drain the battery fairly quickly.

Is your alarm still responding with the fob? Have you set the alarm, then opened the hatch or hood to see if the fob actually set the alarm when it locked the doors?

Admittedly, I have seen one 1996 GTS with the above circumstance...all of which resolved with a new car battery.

There are several steps to take to sort all of the above.

Thanks Steve

Even when i put a new battery years ago they still stayed lit.

Where is the EEM and how can i check if that's the problem?

I have not turned on my alarm since i bought it. Seeing as the battery does drain if i take it off the tender after around 4-6 days, I have never locked the doors and turned on the alarm/ So that question i will have to work on as soon as i get a chance.

What would be the reasoning behind checking the alarm? How will that help with my diagnosis?

Thanks

[Steve-Indy]

Test MIGHT save you $500.00...though not a sure bet

Post or email me your phone number for a better explanation plus alternative tests.

[Blue96GTS]

Do they turn off if you lock the doors?

[Matt Houston]

Make sure that the hood and hatch are firmly closed. If not, those lights will stay on.

[Blue96GTS]

Hmmmmm, sounds like I should make a call to Steve-Indy as well... My lights also stay on - same for another Gen II in the area that we've mused over this issue. Neither of ours go off unless the doors are locked. My alarm does not make a peep, in spite of my break-in efforts. Red light on dash is missing - not sure what the previous owner might have done. Suspected hood latch sensor, but didn't do anything about it. Car likes to quickly drain the battery if left alone for > 2 weeks.

Off to the doctor tomorrow for knee replacement - I'll post my info once I'm lucid enough to remember what you're telling me. In the mean time I'm looking forward to the posting of the results.

[slitherv10]

Do they turn off if you lock the doors?

No they stay on all the time

[coupe]

Mine did this. The Keyless Entry Module was staying energized due to a faulty hood switch. Can also be from a faulty rear hatch switch. If either is faulty, the alarm thinks that particular hood or hatch is "open" so it doesn't let the keyless entry module de-energize. Can replace switch or just unplug.

When it's all working, you'll know by the horn honking when you arm the alarm...then it honks again about 15 seconds later and the red LED blinks slowly on dash. Door lock lights also go off at that time.

[slitherv10]

Mine did this. The Keyless Entry Module was staying energized due to a faulty hood switch. Can also be from a faulty rear hatch switch. If either is faulty, the alarm thinks that particular hood or hatch is "open" so it doesn't let the keyless entry module de-energize. Can replace switch or just unplug.

When it's all working, you'll know by the horn honking when you arm the alarm...then it honks again about 15 seconds later and the red LED blinks slowly on dash. Door lock lights also go off at that time.

Where is the hood latch switch. I know the rear hatch has it on the rear glass struts and will check that one and see if it is engaging as i did change them last year. The hood was also removed a few times so whom ever put it back may have not put the switch for the alarm back in the right place. Where is the right place for it?

[Steve-Indy]

The switch is WAY up front on passenger side...just about two inches toward the center as measured from the rubber bump stop on the passenger side. Check your email for a photo.

[Tinman565]

I just thought of a stupid question.
Can I eliminate/unplug/get rid of somehow the EEM altogether ?
I personally don't need the alarm system.

[Steve-Indy]

I just thought of a stupid question.
Can I eliminate/unplug/get rid of somehow the EEM altogether ?
I personally don't need the alarm system.

Not that I know of on a Gen II.

One can eliminate the alarm on a Gen I.

[Tinman565]

Figures...lol
Thanks Steve.
I appreciate your help and knowledge.

[Blue96GTS]

Anyone have a part number handy for the hood switch?

Thanks

[MH60M]

Anyone have a part number handy for the hood switch?

Thanks

Dodge Viper Hood Switch Link...You lazy Bastard. (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=dodge+viper+hood+switch)

[Blue96GTS]

Nice! Even a LMGTFY link!!

I deserve that one...

Post knee surgery + pain killers = lazy bastard...

4687594AB for you other lazy bastards

thanks!

[slitherv10]

ok..so I found a solution to the door lock lights. They finally turned off

What I did is arm and disarm my alarm with the remote and noticed when i disarmed the car and unlocked the doors, the lights would then turn off after 25 seconds. Problem i am left with is, when i armed the alarm and either opened the hood or the rear hatch, the alarm didn't go off. Any ideas fellas?

[slitherv10]

Mine did this. The Keyless Entry Module was staying energized due to a faulty hood switch. Can also be from a faulty rear hatch switch. If either is faulty, the alarm thinks that particular hood or hatch is "open" so it doesn't let the keyless entry module de-energize. Can replace switch or just unplug.

When it's all working, you'll know by the horn honking when you arm the alarm...then it honks again about 15 seconds later and the red LED blinks slowly on dash. Door lock lights also go off at that time.

When i lock the doors with the remote it does honk, but does not do it again after 15 seconds. The door lock lights do go off though after 25 seconds when i lock the doors with the remote. Alarm does not go off when i open the hood or the rear hatch

[Geronimo]

When i lock the doors with the remote it does honk, but does not do it again after 15 seconds. The door lock lights do go off though after 25 seconds when i lock the doors with the remote. Alarm does not go off when i open the hood or the rear hatchSounds like one or both switches are bad. Mine goes off when either is opened. As cheap as the are I would replace them due to age.

[slitherv10]

Sounds like one or both switches are bad. Mine goes off when either is opened. As cheap as the are I would replace them due to age.

Im guessing they are still available through the dealers?

[coupe]

The alarm is working correctly when it honks upon pressing the fob button... then about 15 seconds later it honks again letting you know it is actually armed. Yours isn't working correctly, something has it thinking there's something not shut... or I suppose it could be a faulty KEM.

[OK Falls GTS]

Does anyone know where the KEM [ EEML receiver unit ] is located? I have the same symptoms as others mentioned above. No second honk and alarm doesn't go off opening doors, rear hatch or hood. Is there a re-learn procedure? Lights in door hadle work fine.



" Be sure that the remote entry receiver has a battery feed from the fuse 7 (25 amp) cavity A of the black connector. Also affected would be the cigar lighter and the data link connector.
Be sure that the receiver has an ignition feed from fuse 8 (5 amp) in cavity F of the blue connector. Also affected would be the instrument panel gauges.
Be sure that the module has a ground cavity H of the black connector
Be sure that you are supplying a good ground to the programming wire.
If the above circuits are OK, replace the receiver."

[Steve-Indy]

EEM is under dash, just above gas pedal...about 6"x 6"x 1" on a short rubber strap.

Will be glad to share insights if you would like to call me. 317-402-9013

[OK Falls GTS]

Thanks Steve. Car is hybernating under cover in the garage. We have snow on the driveway, so it has to wait before I roll the car out to have more elbow room to crawl under the dash. Lived with the car for 8 yrs without addressing the alarm issue,haha. I know where to find you, thanks again.

[Steve-Indy]

These things give SOME hints of impending failure...though some just die without warning and incapacitate the car. If that happens, there is no work around.

BEFORE you embark on spending money, call me for a little more troubleshooting info.

Enjoy the winter !!

[OK Falls GTS]

Thanks Steve:cool:

[OK Falls GTS]

Found the problem with my alarm issue. Mine turned out to be real simple. The honeywell micro switch striker blade missing because of the bakelite body broke at the fixing point.
This is the switch I'll get to replace. https://www.alliedelec.com/honeywell-311sx2-t/70119081/?mkwid=shaPq53i9&pcrid=64764036257&pkw=311sx2-t&pmt=b&pdv=c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_cSx9N2F2QIVDf5kCh320AnCEAAYASAA EgJ5q_D_BwE

So, after calling around 6 different electrical sources, was failing to find the right part numbered switch. I found a store in Kelowna that has one locally, slightly different #number but physically the same size and function. Part# 311SM3-T. Chrysler did a hokey pokey job affixing the micro switch that's held by two plastic pins that's melted on the tips to hold the switch in place,lol. I will have to do a better way to make sure the switch isn't going to shift in the plastic housing and bend a smooth bump on the metal blade so it won't catch in the groove of the gas strut cylinder.That is probably how the microswitch broke in the first place. Both, rear glass and hood switches are on when rear glass or hood opened to activate the alarm/horn. These switches need to be off when rear glass and hood are closed so the EEM unit can program the alarm system by pressing the fob.

[slitherv10]

Found the problem with my alarm issue. Mine turned out to be real simple. The honeywell micro switch striker blade missing because of the bakelite body broke at the fixing point.
This is the switch I'll get to replace. https://www.alliedelec.com/honeywell-311sx2-t/70119081/?mkwid=shaPq53i9&pcrid=64764036257&pkw=311sx2-t&pmt=b&pdv=c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_cSx9N2F2QIVDf5kCh320AnCEAAYASAA EgJ5q_D_BwE

So, after calling around 6 different electrical sources, was failing to find the right part numbered switch. I found a store in Kelowna that has one locally, slightly different #number but physically the same size and function. Part# 311SM3-T. Chrysler did a hokey pokey job affixing the micro switch that's held by two plastic pins that's melted on the tips to hold the switch in place,lol. I will have to do a better way to make sure the switch isn't going to shift in the plastic housing and bend a smooth bump on the metal blade so it won't catch in the groove of the gas strut cylinder.That is probably how the microswitch broke in the first place. Both, rear glass and hood switches are on when rear glass or hood opened to activate the alarm/horn. These switches need to be off when rear glass and hood are closed so the EEM unit can program the alarm system by pressing the fob.

So all that but you didn't tell some of us slow pokes (meaning me) where that switch goes. Also if you can provide some pics of where and how you are going to perform this task, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[OK Falls GTS]

When you open up the rear glass, look at the base of the left side gas strut. You'll see a wire coming out of a black plastic component that is held on by three torx screws. Undo the three screws and this black piece come off in two halves. You'll see the tiny micro switch [ brown coloured ] there. If the switch still has the metal striker, you're OK but still have to check the switch itself for proper function. It is a SPDT switch that's on until the glass window shut. Use a multimeter to check for continuity.

3086430866

[slitherv10]

When you open up the rear glass, look at the base of the left side gas strut. You'll see a wire coming out of a black plastic component that is held on by three torx screws. Undo the three screws and this black piece come off in two halves. You'll see the tiny micro switch [ brown coloured ] there. If the switch still has the metal striker, you're OK but still have to check the switch itself for proper function. It is a SPDT switch that's on until the glass window shut. Use a multimeter to check for continuity.

3086430866

Great. Thanks for the info. I did take apart that unit a while back and remember the metal sticker but don't recall the little brown colored micro switch. I'll look again and test