LATAMUD
02-04-2014, 08:35 PM
Recently had my clutch pedal go out on my 03 at a track event. Thank God I was at a stand still when it happened. Before anyone gets too concerned about their own clutch master, I'm running a Twin Disc 3 fingered clutch and a custom Hydraulic throwout bearing with somewhere around triple or quadruple clutch pedal effort.
This is the hole in the firewall the clutch master goes through. It's square shaped. The small hole to the right is for the plastic peg that keeps the master locked in preventing twisting. Disregard the other smaller holes, because-racecar.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/image-17.jpg
This is what the clutch master flange looks like. Square peg through square hole, 1/4 turn to lock it into place.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/image-18.jpg
Other side of the master, notice the lobe eccentric. After you insert the master into the hole, twist, the eccentric lines up just below the small hole positioned to the right of the square hole. A plastic peg is inserted from the factory which keeps the master from turning and backing out. My peg was broken.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/image-19.jpg
I was coming back from the gas station, at the track gate I stepped on the pedal to shift gears and the clutch pedal hit the floor, the master punched through the firewall. As I mentioned earlier, I'm blaming my extra pedal effort fighting against the plastic square flange.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/image-20.jpg
I had the old master out and new one installed in about 1 hour. Contrary to what I've heard, you do not need to remove the side sill. Jack the car up, high enough to crawl, roll or walk under the car, remove driver front wheel. Remove the 3 screws holding the sill to the rear half of the wheel liner. Near the top of the shock, two 10mm screws are holding the liner in. Lower rear along frame rail is a plastic push tab. Connecting the front and rear liners are two plastic push tabs above centered. It takes a little finessing. I started with the fender lip area of the liner, pull it down away from fender. Push the three tabs that have the screw clip on them past the sill lip. That was the hardest part, fighting the tabs out, but the rear liner will twist out.
Inside the car, the bird cage fits between the clutch pedal rod and the clutch master. I carefully pulled the pedal back and was able to salvage the birdcage. (Thanks Matt). Reach back into the wheel well, push the plastic peg through the firewall, then twist the master cylinder counter clockwise 1/4 turn and pull it out of the square hole. A new clutch master will come with the remote reservoir and a quick disconnect line that goes to the clutch slave.
From under the car at the drivers side of the bell housing there are two holes, one above the other. The higher hole is the bleeder, the lower is where the quick disconnect fitting sits. An opened ended wrench can be used to push the white planting ring inward, once it seats, you can pull the line out disconnecting the master from the slave.
From under the hood, remove the two 8mm bolts holding the remote reservoir to the fender apron, it's located near the fuse box. From here, everything is disconnected. It might seem like the easy route would be to push the reservoir under the brake master and brake booster towards to clutch master but it will get stuck. It's easier to push the master up from under the brake master. Make sure to pull the pressure line with quick disconnect out at the same time. Everything pulls out from under the hood.
Install: as stated, new clutch master comes with reservoir and quick disconnect lines attached. It also is already primed with fluid. Holding the master and pressure line together push them under the brake master near the fuse box. I find it easier to route them under the brake hard lines, you will feel them under there. Once you get it deep enough you can pull it the rest of the way through from the wheel well. Route the pressure line with quick disconnect through the apron towards the transmission. If you get it started towards the header from the wheel well then you can pull it the rest of the way through from under the car. Plug it into the fitting at the bell housing. Place the clutch master about half way into the firewall hole. Go back inside the car, with bird cage on the rod, place the end of the rod inside the clutch master plunger. From the wheel well complete the connection with the rod by pushing the square peg flange through the square hole, twist, add anti-twist plastic peg to keep the master from rotating and to not all it to back out. I'm currently using a screw to hold the master from spinning. Under the hood, insert the 8mm bolts through the reservoir mounting holes. Back inside the car, ease the clutch pedal into the back of a the clutch master until the bird cage locks in. Reinstall the wheel liner and wheel. Lower the car and DRIVE!
This is the hole in the firewall the clutch master goes through. It's square shaped. The small hole to the right is for the plastic peg that keeps the master locked in preventing twisting. Disregard the other smaller holes, because-racecar.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/image-17.jpg
This is what the clutch master flange looks like. Square peg through square hole, 1/4 turn to lock it into place.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/image-18.jpg
Other side of the master, notice the lobe eccentric. After you insert the master into the hole, twist, the eccentric lines up just below the small hole positioned to the right of the square hole. A plastic peg is inserted from the factory which keeps the master from turning and backing out. My peg was broken.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/image-19.jpg
I was coming back from the gas station, at the track gate I stepped on the pedal to shift gears and the clutch pedal hit the floor, the master punched through the firewall. As I mentioned earlier, I'm blaming my extra pedal effort fighting against the plastic square flange.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/image-20.jpg
I had the old master out and new one installed in about 1 hour. Contrary to what I've heard, you do not need to remove the side sill. Jack the car up, high enough to crawl, roll or walk under the car, remove driver front wheel. Remove the 3 screws holding the sill to the rear half of the wheel liner. Near the top of the shock, two 10mm screws are holding the liner in. Lower rear along frame rail is a plastic push tab. Connecting the front and rear liners are two plastic push tabs above centered. It takes a little finessing. I started with the fender lip area of the liner, pull it down away from fender. Push the three tabs that have the screw clip on them past the sill lip. That was the hardest part, fighting the tabs out, but the rear liner will twist out.
Inside the car, the bird cage fits between the clutch pedal rod and the clutch master. I carefully pulled the pedal back and was able to salvage the birdcage. (Thanks Matt). Reach back into the wheel well, push the plastic peg through the firewall, then twist the master cylinder counter clockwise 1/4 turn and pull it out of the square hole. A new clutch master will come with the remote reservoir and a quick disconnect line that goes to the clutch slave.
From under the car at the drivers side of the bell housing there are two holes, one above the other. The higher hole is the bleeder, the lower is where the quick disconnect fitting sits. An opened ended wrench can be used to push the white planting ring inward, once it seats, you can pull the line out disconnecting the master from the slave.
From under the hood, remove the two 8mm bolts holding the remote reservoir to the fender apron, it's located near the fuse box. From here, everything is disconnected. It might seem like the easy route would be to push the reservoir under the brake master and brake booster towards to clutch master but it will get stuck. It's easier to push the master up from under the brake master. Make sure to pull the pressure line with quick disconnect out at the same time. Everything pulls out from under the hood.
Install: as stated, new clutch master comes with reservoir and quick disconnect lines attached. It also is already primed with fluid. Holding the master and pressure line together push them under the brake master near the fuse box. I find it easier to route them under the brake hard lines, you will feel them under there. Once you get it deep enough you can pull it the rest of the way through from the wheel well. Route the pressure line with quick disconnect through the apron towards the transmission. If you get it started towards the header from the wheel well then you can pull it the rest of the way through from under the car. Plug it into the fitting at the bell housing. Place the clutch master about half way into the firewall hole. Go back inside the car, with bird cage on the rod, place the end of the rod inside the clutch master plunger. From the wheel well complete the connection with the rod by pushing the square peg flange through the square hole, twist, add anti-twist plastic peg to keep the master from rotating and to not all it to back out. I'm currently using a screw to hold the master from spinning. Under the hood, insert the 8mm bolts through the reservoir mounting holes. Back inside the car, ease the clutch pedal into the back of a the clutch master until the bird cage locks in. Reinstall the wheel liner and wheel. Lower the car and DRIVE!