FLATOUT
10-27-2013, 09:34 AM
I picked up this set from the guys at M&M here on the board and got them installed this last week. All in all I'm very happy with the construction, price, performance, and fit and finish of the headers. The customer service I experienced was exceptional and install was a breeze as far as header installs go.
I went ahead and took a few pics during the install, nothing to detailed as we already had an install document on the site but thought I would comment on the things that worked well and or things I did differently.
First a few things I did before getting started. The M&M turnouts are 3 inch and my Corsa has the 2 1/2 inch inlets so I needed to get a reducer made at a local exhaust shop. Super cheap and quick. I went ahead and threw the catback in my Jeep along with both turnouts to make sure the fit was as tight as possible. I would later weld the reducer to the turnouts once cut to length but for adjustment purposes need these to be movable.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/Reducer.jpg
Next per our install doc here I went ahead and ordered new Mopar exhaust manifold gaskets just incase my stockers separated upon removal (which they did.) These are cheap anyways roughly 36$.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/Exhaustgasket.jpg
***Note: M&M states to not use these copper gaskets as they can lead to warping of the collector flange over time, it's instead recommended to use High Temp RTV instead.
Leaving this here simply for part number reference
Next I went ahead and called up Summit and ordered new ARP hardware (not necessary, but recommended) along with some copper gaskets for the collectors. These are also not mandatory but they don't cost much and do the job well.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/collectorgasket.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/ARPfasteners.jpg
Once everything came in, I went to work. I ended up doing the install alone which is doable, but I took my time over the coarse of a week to get everything done right. First things first, got the side sills removed and the catback off.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/sillcatbackremove.jpg
Next I removed the windshield cowling, airbox, and the cabin airfilter plastic housing at the base of the passenger side windshield cowl.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/intakecowlremove.jpg
Here I kind of skip ahead in the pictures so i'll give a quick breakdown. Removed the wires, valve covers, loosened the coolant overflow and secured it out of the way. Removed and marked the throttle cable position, removed the break booster line and folded out of the way. Basically try and create as much clearance as you need to remove the old exhaust manifolds and install the new headers. I secured the fusebox heat-shield back with a long piece of blue painters tape secured to the fender (I know it looks hillbilly, but it works great.) From here, protect your rocker arms and cylinder heads from damage as you remove the stock manifolds and install the new headers. I didn't take any pics but I used tape and rags which worked fine. Here it is all torn down.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/dissadriverside.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/Dissasembled.jpg
From here I inserted a couple of set screws into the head to hold the new gasket in place and to hang the new headers on (more detail on that in the original install doc.) Use antisieze, and the proper torque specs and procedure when installing the new headers. At this point everything was left loose for adjustment purposes.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/driversin.jpg
Drivers side went in easier than the passenger side. On both sides I needed to remove the motor mount bolts and slightly raise the motor to get the headers past the frame rails. Really easy to do. Here's the passenger side with the valve covers back on.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/passengerin.jpg
At this point I went ahead and torqued everything to the head and started working down stream, first with the collectors and the rear O2's. I grabbed a couple O2 block offs from the exhaust shop I used and used some loctite to secure them in the collector as they can come loose.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/O2Blockoff.jpg
Anti fowlers are welded into the M&M's from the factory so all you need to do is screw your rear O2's in and it won't throw any codes.
this is the process you will need to go through for other header brands that don't weld in antifowlers from the factory.
Next I rigged up the rear O2's via a trick from Andres (345's Spinnin, Thanks Buddy for your help). I secured the rear O2's up and out of the way and used spark plug anti-fowlers to insulate them to not only protect them, but also to allow them to properly heat making the system "ready" so it wouldn't throw any codes, and still pass emissions. The rear O2's read plenty of oxygen in the outside air so the system thinks everything is great. So far so good, it works great! You have to drill out a significant portion out of the end to get them to accept the O2 but it works.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/AntiFowlers.jpg
I went ahead and took a few pics during the install, nothing to detailed as we already had an install document on the site but thought I would comment on the things that worked well and or things I did differently.
First a few things I did before getting started. The M&M turnouts are 3 inch and my Corsa has the 2 1/2 inch inlets so I needed to get a reducer made at a local exhaust shop. Super cheap and quick. I went ahead and threw the catback in my Jeep along with both turnouts to make sure the fit was as tight as possible. I would later weld the reducer to the turnouts once cut to length but for adjustment purposes need these to be movable.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/Reducer.jpg
Next per our install doc here I went ahead and ordered new Mopar exhaust manifold gaskets just incase my stockers separated upon removal (which they did.) These are cheap anyways roughly 36$.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/Exhaustgasket.jpg
***Note: M&M states to not use these copper gaskets as they can lead to warping of the collector flange over time, it's instead recommended to use High Temp RTV instead.
Leaving this here simply for part number reference
Next I went ahead and called up Summit and ordered new ARP hardware (not necessary, but recommended) along with some copper gaskets for the collectors. These are also not mandatory but they don't cost much and do the job well.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/collectorgasket.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/ARPfasteners.jpg
Once everything came in, I went to work. I ended up doing the install alone which is doable, but I took my time over the coarse of a week to get everything done right. First things first, got the side sills removed and the catback off.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/sillcatbackremove.jpg
Next I removed the windshield cowling, airbox, and the cabin airfilter plastic housing at the base of the passenger side windshield cowl.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/intakecowlremove.jpg
Here I kind of skip ahead in the pictures so i'll give a quick breakdown. Removed the wires, valve covers, loosened the coolant overflow and secured it out of the way. Removed and marked the throttle cable position, removed the break booster line and folded out of the way. Basically try and create as much clearance as you need to remove the old exhaust manifolds and install the new headers. I secured the fusebox heat-shield back with a long piece of blue painters tape secured to the fender (I know it looks hillbilly, but it works great.) From here, protect your rocker arms and cylinder heads from damage as you remove the stock manifolds and install the new headers. I didn't take any pics but I used tape and rags which worked fine. Here it is all torn down.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/dissadriverside.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/Dissasembled.jpg
From here I inserted a couple of set screws into the head to hold the new gasket in place and to hang the new headers on (more detail on that in the original install doc.) Use antisieze, and the proper torque specs and procedure when installing the new headers. At this point everything was left loose for adjustment purposes.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/driversin.jpg
Drivers side went in easier than the passenger side. On both sides I needed to remove the motor mount bolts and slightly raise the motor to get the headers past the frame rails. Really easy to do. Here's the passenger side with the valve covers back on.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/passengerin.jpg
At this point I went ahead and torqued everything to the head and started working down stream, first with the collectors and the rear O2's. I grabbed a couple O2 block offs from the exhaust shop I used and used some loctite to secure them in the collector as they can come loose.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/O2Blockoff.jpg
Anti fowlers are welded into the M&M's from the factory so all you need to do is screw your rear O2's in and it won't throw any codes.
this is the process you will need to go through for other header brands that don't weld in antifowlers from the factory.
Next I rigged up the rear O2's via a trick from Andres (345's Spinnin, Thanks Buddy for your help). I secured the rear O2's up and out of the way and used spark plug anti-fowlers to insulate them to not only protect them, but also to allow them to properly heat making the system "ready" so it wouldn't throw any codes, and still pass emissions. The rear O2's read plenty of oxygen in the outside air so the system thinks everything is great. So far so good, it works great! You have to drill out a significant portion out of the end to get them to accept the O2 but it works.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/AntiFowlers.jpg