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71firebird400
07-23-2017, 12:06 AM
Does anyone make a piece that allows you to get better access to the factory jack points with a floor jack? I end up having a tough time avoiding the sill while maintaining a good purchase on the steel ring due to how close they are to each other.

I have used the rear frame rails (approaching at an angle from behind the rear wheels) but that isn't ideal either because it's buried under the car. Just wondering if there's a better solution out there for a very cautious Viper owner :)

Camfab
07-23-2017, 01:19 AM
On the rare occasion where my lift was occupied, I cut a 3/4" piece of plywood that seated into the cup of my Lincoln Jack. The top of the plywood sat above the top of the cup. As you jack the car up the steel ring would slightly embed itself into the plywood, but would prevent any damage to the sill. The plywood piece was sacrificial and would be replaced as it got damaged.

71firebird400
07-23-2017, 03:13 AM
On the rare occasion where my lift was occupied, I cut a 3/4" piece of plywood the seated into the cup of my Lincoln Jack. The plywood sat above the top of the cup. As you jack the car up the steel ring would slightly embed itself into the plywood, but would prevent any damage to the sill. The plywood piece was sacrificial and would be replaced as it got damaged.

I like that idea. My brother's company has a small machine shop so I may see if carving something out of aluminum would be relatively simple. I'm not sure what the best design would be as it's a little unclear to me what the intended engagement point is with the factory jack points. They look like a horseshoe glued to the frame rails with that infamous Viper welding; err "hand assembly". I'm unsure if I should be applying the lifting force to the horseshoe itself or to the area inside of the circle.

AZTVR
07-23-2017, 11:12 AM
I'm unsure if I should be applying the lifting force to the horseshoe itself or to the area inside of the circle. It probably doesn't matter, either way; but, consider that the "horseshoe" bent rod was probably put there to fit into the notch in the top of the supplied emergency jack.

nrs1
07-23-2017, 01:37 PM
I removed the "cups" off of all my floor jacks. This gives me some added ground clearance and provides a flat surface to keep off of the sills.

71firebird400
07-23-2017, 10:24 PM
After looking it over I think all I need is a 7/8" wide, 2 3/4" long and 1" tall block welded to a 3" round circle that will fit in my jack saddle. Rather crude but should definitely take care of any issues; I've enlisted the help of fabricator friend to weld me something up. I'll try to remember to post a picture of what we come up with.

71firebird400
09-23-2019, 10:35 AM
Two years late, but here is the finished product. Enables me to use the factory jack points with zero fear of leaving a mark on the sidesills.


39979

215MPH
09-23-2019, 11:46 AM
I have always used rubber hockey pucks and aligning directly under the loop, it has alway been successful for me. What I like best is the the picks fit perfectly in the circle of the jack pod.

ViperTony
09-23-2019, 11:46 AM
Nice, puts my two 2"x2" pieces of trexx deck material to shame, LOL. Nice work.

LifeIsGood
09-23-2019, 12:54 PM
So the circle is for the jack. The spiral jack point sits on the rectangular piece? It looks like aluminum. What are the magnets for?

71firebird400
09-23-2019, 01:17 PM
So the circle is for the jack. The spiral jack point sits on the rectangular piece? It looks like aluminum. What are the magnets for?

Yep, you've got it. The diameter of the circle fits in the jack saddle, and the rectangular piece keys into the "loop" of the factory jack point. The magnets allow it to cling to the car so it's easier to get everything aligned.

dave6666
09-23-2019, 05:47 PM
Pretty cool work but I just position the jack where the body isn't. Haven't missed to date.