Oil change procedure

[AHCBANDIT3]

Ive always prevented engine start up after changing oil. My gen3 was easy, just pull fuel pump relay, spin engine to obtain pressure, replace relay and done!
My gen 5 is not cooperating. Before draining oil, I tried to disable the start function while still being able to spin engine. Ive pulled fuel pump relay, PCM fuse and a couple of other power sources. Still, either will not spin or will start.
Anyone have a solution?
Thanks in advance

[swexlin]

Overkill, IMO. Your the first I've ever heard do this. Just change it and start. But, I don't know the answer to your question but I'm sure there must be a way.

If your procedure was necessary the manual would state. My 2 cents.

[BlueAdder]

Overkill, IMO. Your the first I've ever heard do this. Just change it and start. But, I don't know the answer to your question but I'm sure there must be a way.

If your procedure was necessary the manual would state. My 2 cents.

Agreed.
When you start your car in the morning after it has sit all night long, all the oil is at the bottom and essentially you crank the motor and there is not much oil on the parts. When you change your oil, the motor is warm (to make it a bit easier to flush the oil) and your moving parts are still coated with oil and if anything, it's probably better than a cold start.
I think what you should do when you change the oil is to prime the oil filter, assuming the filter is vertical and not horizontal.

That or I'm completely missing the point...

[Martin]

This ^^^^^

The filter is vertical, so filling it up will go a long way toward providing a little extra protection. You'll still have an empty oil cooler to fill up, but that's a minimal concern in my opinion. There are some oils out there that "stick" to the surfaces better than others. I'm probably going to switch to Red Line oil after I manage to get a real break-in done. If all the technical articles about its properties are correct, it provides a little bit of extra protection at start-up and after long periods of sitting. It's expensive as hell at $12 a quart, but now that they have a European formula 0W/40 that meets all the Viper requirements, I figure it can't hurt (other than my wallet).

[BlueAdder]

Holy crap! $12/qt?

I'm just going to put some Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel or something. The Lotus guys have been doing this for years and it's pretty good. The idea is that there are more additives in the Turbo Diesel Synthetic oil than in the regular synth oil and it's a lot cheaper :D

[Martin]

I run Rotella T synthetic, or Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel, in almost everything and it's worked great. For the Vipers, though, the Red Line oils and lubricants have been great. Probably overkill, and probably more expensive than getting a new engine eventually, but what the heck... Sometimes it goes on sale online and you can find it cheaper. Also, sometimes they'll do a tour of their factory/refinery in Benicia and you can buy a ton of stuff really cheap (not sure if they still do that - I think they got bought out by a big oil company some time ago and things may have changed).

[AHCBANDIT3]

Follow up and solution to my question.
First a huge shout out to Chuck Tator in South Salem NY. I called him years ago with another problem and he gave exact procedure to me. He did this with no anticipation of my doing business with him, ( I'm 900 miles away ). Today I called him again for my question about disabling the start function but allowing cranking of my gen5.
Again, Chuck without hesitation gave the information I needed.
For all you gen 5 owners who do not want a dry oil pressure start, here it is:
Remove fuse # 26, ASD#1, fuse #27, ASD#2, and I removed the fuel pump relay located in position #60 just to be safe. Cranking is still enabled, but engine will not start.
Crank engine for about 15 seconds with electrical system still functioning. ( Id say key on, but there's no key). Oil pressure gauge will show pressure. Worked like a charm. Reinstalled electrical devises, fired engine and had pressure immediately. Of course I filled filter first.
Thanks to all who responded and especially Chuck Tator. Viper owners in the NE, I recommend Chuck Tator of Tators garage, we're lucky to have him on our team.

[Steve M]

There is likely a flood clearing procedure, and I'm guessing it is just like any other fuel injected car...hold the gas pedal to the floor, then turn the engine over. It should crank, but not start. Someone should be able to verify that if they have a service manual.

[AHCBANDIT3]

Oops, CEL will light, no big deal. Either buy an inexpensive hand held scanner or just ho to AutoZone and have them clear the codes.
Steve, but just incase that doesn't work, engine will go to WOT with, ZERO oil pressure, not worth the risk.
Just being helpful here

[Steve M]

Oops, CEL will light, no big deal. Either buy an inexpensive hand held scanner or just ho to AutoZone and have them clear the codes.
Steve, but just incase that doesn't work, engine will go to WOT with, ZERO oil pressure, not worth the risk.
Just being helpful here

Oh come on...where's your sense of adventure?

I definitely understand your concern...the first time I ever tried this was on my old LS1 Camaro, and I cringed as I held the pedal to the floor and hit the button. Like I said though, someone could probably verify if this functionality existed just by looking at a service manual. Or just have someone call up Winkles and ask...I can't imagine that they would have not included such a feature.