Centering Exhaust tip in Exhaust Bezel

[Doug Nash]

Hi All,

I have seen the many threads about removing side pods to change exhaust, replace heat insulation, etc. However, for what looks to be just rotating the muffler-exhaust tip up about 1/2" to center in the bezel opening is this necessary? If I can access whatever clamp(s) need to be loosened then I have access to a lift this weekend at a friends home (lucky bastard). Thought I would write a quick thread to ask before killing a lot of weekend time and lifting needlessly to find out it cannot be done without the side pod removal. Pic26191
Thank you.

[mjorgensen]

You will have to remove the sill, it can be slipping at a couple different places so tighten all and if possible tack weld to insure no future slippage.

[Doug Nash]

Okay Thank you Mark. At least I can do at home in my garage. On the floor. With a beer maybe. Going to print instructions from a thread.

[Stealth78]

There is a bolt that has slide adjustment up and down right near the rear of the exhaust. As Mark already said you will need to remove the sills.

[venomous08]

I have done this both on the lift and on jack stands. It isn't that bad to do on jack stands at all.

I did my Gen3 exhaust on jack stands just because I was impatient and wanted to get it done. Gen3 is the worst since you have to try and get some leverage to get the old cross over pipes out.

[venomous08]

There is a bolt that has slide adjustment up and down right near the rear of the exhaust. As Mark already said you will need to remove the sills.


Those you can actually reach (on a lift) and get to with a ratcheting wrench. I had to tweak a few after welding exhaust up.

[Stealth78]

Those you can actually reach (on a lift) and get to with a ratcheting wrench. I had to tweak a few after welding exhaust up.

Good advice! Clearly I had my sills off but I would not have guessed there was enough space.

[Doug Nash]

DONE! I wanted to update for anyone else catching this thread. I was able to adjust both side on the garage deck. No lifts, stands, etc. There is an adjustment block as part of the rear hanger. It has vertical travel of 1-11/2" which when raised brings the tip up and back. There are 2 - 13 MM bolts - lower you can see looking forward through the rear wheel well and upper which you can see a little feel the wrench onto the bolt above the hanger. Looks like a piece of lead or block aluminum with a rubber isolator pressed in for the hanger and to reduce vibration and droning. I sprayed a little WD 40 on cold exhaust and they loosened with just a flat 13mm flat wrench (no room for a normal style). Grasping the exhaust pipe underneath and inside the opening I just pulled up a few times until it moved to center then tightened back down. Nice thing this way is you know exactly where you want it. No on and off again with the sill. Since the driver side was now perfect (and no burn damage!) I also did the pass side which was a little low but not touching. On the pass side I took off the front rear wheel liner (6 philips and 1 10mm bolt) to get to the top 13mm on this side. I am left handed and could not contort around to get to it from underneath. 2626026261. Thanks for the help all.