Clutch pedal throw

[GhostStalker27]

If there's one thing I'm not crazy about - its the clutch travel on my 99. (also the fact there's no room for a dead pedal, yes I saw the 2 kits that are available - but I dunno about those - looks real tight)

Anyway, I did some research and found this kit (http://www.theviperstore.com/Viper2_Products_Performance_Clutch_Pedal_Kit.htm)

Has anyone used this? If so what how much travel would you estimate it's shortened by. I don't want a lil bit - I want to reduce it by like 35%-50% if possible.

Are there other options for shortening the travel? I just drove a 03 Z06 and that clutch is like pushing a button in comparison.

Share your knowledge - Thanks in advance

[Mad Max]

I have one. It helps however it will not give you what you are looking for.

[Luisv]

I have the kit as well. The main thing the kit does is push the clutch pedal back a bit. Sure this reduces total travel, but it's not remotely close to 40%. I'd say more like 10%.

To make the changes you are considering, you'll need to need to change the geometry of the assembly with new parts. Possible, but it'll require the pedal assembly out and the custom fab of new parts.

[ViperTony]

I have the kit too. You're welcome to sit in my Viper and try it some day as your in CT. But it doesn't shorten the travel that much. I did a DIY on this years ago but I think it almost makes the clutch pedal the same height as the brake pedal.

[GhostStalker27]

I have the kit too. You're welcome to sit in my Viper and try it some day as your in CT. But it doesn't shorten the travel that much. I did a DIY on this years ago but I think it almost makes the clutch pedal the same height as the brake pedal.

Thanks Tony, I appreciate it. I noticed my clutch pedal is level with my throttle and brake pedal. I also noticed that the knob used to adjust the height doesn't turn. I believe there's a DIY out there for customizing the height of each pedal but I understand you lose the ability to use that knob. I'm assuming this means the previous owner did this to mine..I'd like to lose 35-50% of the throw, but even if it's much less - so I don't have to slouch in my seat to push it all the way down, that'd be better.

[Bugman Jeff]

I made my own link, and made it as short as possible. You can't go much shorter than the link in the kit before it starts binding. Like others have said, it moved the pedal down, but didn't really shorten the throw much. The biggest advantage for me was that with the shorter link, I could then adjust the pedal further up so it wasn't buried in the floor when the gas and brake were adjusted comfortable for me. To actually reduce the throw by as much as you want, you need to change the geometry of the pedal linkages or find a master cylinder with a larger bore diameter.

Here's my short link next to the stock one. It's 5 5/8" x 3/4" x 1/4", with 1/2" holes on 4 3/4" centers. Both the original and new link are aluminum.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xcdTSWXYWCk/Uj5QeoYPHEI/AAAAAAAAAO0/NJ9_o3KYwGg/s320/SAM_1391.JPG

The pedals can be adjusted individually simply by removing the cables from the adjuster knob. Then you can bring the clutch up higher so you don't have to reach as far for it. Once it's where you want it, just reinstall the cable into the knob, and the adjuster will function as normal.

[GhostStalker27]

The pedals can be adjusted individually simply by removing the cables from the adjuster knob. Then you can bring the clutch up higher so you don't have to reach as far for it. Once it's where you want it, just reinstall the cable into the knob, and the adjuster will function as normal.

Ok, once it's not 10 degrees out here, I'm gonna get under there and mess with the cables - see if I can get these puppies in good position.

[Viper98912]

Long heavy throw; I may need to look into this

[C.J]

The other site had a write up where the adjusting knob was disconnected, the cables separated, and the clutch pedal brought into alignment with the brake, then everything reassembled. Looked pretty straightforward and maybe something worth doing if the clutch pedal positon is a problem.

[Luisv]

The other site had a write up where the adjusting knob was disconnected, the cables separated, and the clutch pedal brought into alignment with the brake, then everything reassembled. Looked pretty straightforward and maybe something worth doing if the clutch pedal positon is a problem.

Yes... Jeff mentioned it above as well.

The mechanism has three cables attached to it. These can be pulled off one at a time and adjust the other two with the knob (easiest way I have found) so that you get them aligned. For example, remove the clutch pedal cable and move the brake and accelerator up to align. Then re attach the clutch and move the group up an back as you wish.

The bar above though does make the actuation a touch faster though.

[braunstein82]

I thought the adjustment knob only moved the brake and gas? Or is mine broken?

[AZTVR]

I thought the adjustment knob only moved the brake and gas? Or is mine broken?

From the '98 Service manual :
6301

[Bugman Jeff]

I thought the adjustment knob only moved the brake and gas? Or is mine broken?

It should move all three. If it doesn't, either yours is broken, or someone disconnected the clutch cable to adjust the other pedal heights relative to the clutch.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

When Dave C. passed away from Daves Big Brakes, PartsRack ended up with his inventory.

I have 25 of these lowering shafts that I can DELIVER for $10 each USA!

Or Ill give you one FREE with an order of anything else.

Just email me your name/address and it goes out prio mail $10 delivered. While 25 last......

JonB@PartsRack.com Thank You

[braunstein82]

Good to know. Had to move pedals all way back. My clutch throw goes from knee in dash to pushing in with my tip toe.

Definitely getting one jonb

[chnco]

Just got one in the mail today as a surprise! My first mod, thank you John, this thing is nice!

[Tom, F&L GoR]

66146615I did this on my Gen 1; a little thought and I'm sure you can do this on a Gen 2. It's stiffer, but quicker and shorter throw. 6613

[Luisv]

66146615I did this on my Gen 1; a little thought and I'm sure you can do this on a Gen 2. It's stiffer, but quicker and shorter throw. 6613

Just so I get it right... What you did was drop the pivot point for the master shaft.... right?

Interesting....

[Tom, F&L GoR]

Yes. The connecting push rod had sloppy ends, so it could easily tolerate a change in the angle to the master cylinder. I sold a kit for Gen 1's that included instructions, the peg, some other hardware. Send me an email tomXhayden@ymail (replace the X with an underscore and add the .com) and I will forward the PDF instructions. It has some measurements so you would get an idea of where to put the new peg.

[ViperTony]

Yes. The connecting push rod had sloppy ends, so it could easily tolerate a change in the angle to the master cylinder. I sold a kit for Gen 1's that included instructions, the peg, some other hardware. Send me an email tomXhayden@ymail (replace the X with an underscore and add the .com) and I will forward the PDF instructions. It has some measurements so you would get an idea of where to put the new peg.

Tom!!! Welcome! It was great seeing you at Limerock. Did you sell that Gen1 yet? :D

[Tom, F&L GoR]

Tony, I'm working on a low miles silver '98 GTS and hopefully in a couple of weeks will have a deal done. Anyone want a 146,000 mile Gen 1 autocross car? Won the Venom cup in 2003 and 2004 (?) (adjustable ride height, 550/800 springs, 1.7 Crowers, light flywheel, short shifter, 3-piece hardtop... probably should be placing an ad) It's my daily driver. ;)

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

TOM!

Welcome.

Guys, this guy needs to be persuaded to hang out here more often....in 20+ years I almost always learn/ed something from any FLOGoR post.................. (I may have originally given him that title in fact?}

[Tom, F&L GoR]

Howdy. I bought an eBay pedal assembly to develop a clutch quickener for the Gen 2. I finished a prototype that extends the driver side link of the swinging parallelogram, which is the equivalent of lowering the pivot point on the pedal.

It should be:
Completely add on and removeable
simple to install, if you can install the shorter Roe link, you can do this too
no cutting or drilling on your car
increase pedal travel (and effort) by 50%
since it changes the driver's side arm length, no change to angle pushing on hydraulic piston
neutral safety switch not affected
pedal travel has always been limited by the neutral safety switch and still will be

The prototype was made with material I had laying around. If it works as expected I will recreate it with store bought parts to make more assembly line style.

Stay tuned. If you have comments, questions or advice, please speak up. Thanks.

[Bugman Jeff]

I'm interested in seeing what you came up with. The long clutch throw is one of my very few legitimate complaints about the car.

Is there a pedal stop of some sort built into the pedal assembly somewhere? I know I don't hit full cylinder travel with the long stock linkage, but with that much less throw I'd worry about repeatedly slamming the piston into the end of the cylinder with hard and quick clutching.

[Tom, F&L GoR]

Jeff, the pedal assembly itself does not have a stop; it must be when it hits the floor. However, to (dis) engage the neutral safety, your foot essentially bottoms the neutral safety switch. There is a rubber washer as a "bump stop" but it's pretty thin, so you aren't risking the hydraulic ram, but maybe the switch (which in the worst case, can be jumped if it fails, meaning you can crank yourself into the curb.) The actual master cylinder piston travel is about an inch. I am using a failed one with the Gen 2 assembly; the pedal travel is about 7 inches to move the clutch rod end that 1 inch.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

when dave c. Passed away from daves big brakes, partsrack ended up with his inventory.

i have 25 of these lowering shafts that i can deliver for $10 each usa!

or ill give you one free with an order of anything else.

Just email me your name/address and it goes out prio mail $10 delivered. While 25 last......

jonb@partsrack.com thank you


bump