To start or not start during storage

[Purple Haze]

Experts chime in please...After sitting for several months I have been told it's better just to wait and start the car once when ready to start driving it. Other say start it every week or so. I understand how the oil drains down and that's when most damage occurs...But two experts told me just let it sit and just start once when ready to go. Opinions? Thanks guys and girls...

[Vibert]

I'm far from being an expert. But the consensus I've read is to fill it up with gas and fuel stabilizer, park it on a vapor barrier (thick plastic to prevent moisture accumulation), overinflate tires to prevent flatspots, and hook up a battery tender.

[BlknBlu]

I start once a month and bring up to operating temp over the winter. I am no expert though. I have yet to see any good long term storage soultion.

Bruce

[99Vipers]

I have used this method for storage for decades storing(4-6 months) with NO problems ever.Give it a good bath,I like to change oil and filter, I fill the gas tank and add a fuel stabilizer (Stabil), Air up all tires to 45-50Lbs, Hook up a float charger, cover and then let it sit. I know you will get conflicting advise on why you don't have to do this or that but this is what has worked for me.
I also always have a float charger on the car even in the driving months.

[donk_316]

Never start and let the engine idle over the winter. The oil will never get up to proper temperature and can't burn off the moisture and acids. If anything, starting the car during the winter will accelerate engine damage.

Just change your oil before storage and leave it alone.

[sadil]

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I always start over the winter every month but only because we have some cold yet dry days and I can take the car around the neighborhood and get the engine oil to 80C. Once everything heats up, I bring it back and park it.

BTW, please upload some photos of both Stryker's parked in the garage. Look so damn nice.

[ViperSRT]

Park with clean oil and battery tender and do not start. Winter or (Florida) summer storage. Covered, paper towel under the wiper blades and tires over inflated. Also parked on carpet squares.

[bluesrt]

I leave mine on a battery tender,leave the gas wherever it is,put in stabilizer, fill it up on the first drive. mine doesn't fire for about 4 months, oil gets changed in the spring fireup at some point. been doing this for 30 years and no problems/ if its in storage where things sweat, get it out of there

[ACRucrazy]

Never start and let the engine idle over the winter. The oil will never get up to proper temperature and can't burn off the moisture and acids. If anything, starting the car during the winter will accelerate engine damage.

Just change your oil before storage and leave it alone.

Those are my thoughts.

[swexlin]

I keep in Hibernation Mode, and keep a tender on it. Only start it if you're going to drive it and get to operating and driving condition temps. My car sat for two months in an unheated garage over the winter, and when I finally did go to drive her, it was like she was driven yesterday.

[Terminator02]

I have been under an impression to not start in freezing temps and it's not about starting and idling but to actually have a warm up and then short drive as it allows the oil to do it's job maintaining the parts. This may be wrong so hopefully an expert can chime in

What I do is wait for a 40 degree day, warm up and then drive for short period of time. I will do that throughout the winter.

[ACRSNK]

I have used this method for storage for decades storing(4-6 months) with NO problems ever.Give it a good bath,I like to change oil and filter, I fill the gas tank and add a fuel stabilizer (Stabil), Air up all tires to 45-50Lbs, Hook up a float charger, cover and then let it sit. I know you will get conflicting advise on why you don't have to do this or that but this is what has worked for me.
I also always have a float charger on the car even in the driving months.

This.

[dev]

Is there a specific tender that you guys prefer to use?

[99Vipers]

Is there a specific tender that you guys prefer to use?

I have used B&D from Home Depot for years~ 25.00

[Purple Haze]

I still have to install front splitter maybe this weekend...


25448
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I always start over the winter every month but only because we have some cold yet dry days and I can take the car around the neighborhood and get the engine oil to 80C. Once everything heats up, I bring it back and park it.

BTW, please upload some photos of both Stryker's parked in the garage. Look so damn nice.

[swexlin]

Is there a specific tender that you guys prefer to use?


Deltran. Plug it in and forget it.

[Purple Haze]

Thanks again...The only thing I forgot was to add stabilizer...I pushed the car back and forth every two weeks to avoid flat spots on tires of 2016 GTC. ACR just got a couple weeks ago. Temp of garage kept at 60 so that was OK I guess. Right now I won't be driving ACR because repaving our main road in and out of town it's all torn up and back road is really dirty from 20 homes they are putting up all at once. Soon though....

[swexlin]

I've never used stabilizer. Granted, my car has never sat for more than 7 weeks at a time, but I'm lucky to have good fuel in my area.

[ViperSRT]

Never use stabilizer either. Closed fuel systems today should not allow evaporation and varnish creation. For a boat with carbs I do use stabil.

[Rare Snake]

For 3 winters now, I have parked my car for 5-6 months. Non heated but insulated garage, cleaned and covered, parked right on the cement floor. After 2-3 months I usually open it up and throw a charger on it for a couple of days, whether it needs it or not. Once I start to itch right before Spring, I usually end up firing it up and letting it run for a bit, mostly just to satisfy myself more than for any other reason.

Same deal with my previous cars, park them and try to forget about them until I get to drive them again. That helps the wait seem not as long.

Dason

[donk_316]

If your floor is heated then there is seriously no need for carpet squares, rolling car, etc etc etc.

These aren't 1960s bias ply tires.

[ClayR]

I was told not to start, not by an expert or anything. But if your car gets hot, and you bring it back to a cold place, will condensation form in the motor? There is really no reason to start your car unless you want to drive it. Full tank of gas, battery tender, hibernation mode on Gen V and car cover. That is what I do.

[ViperSRT]

If your floor is heated then there is seriously no need for carpet squares, rolling car, etc etc etc.

These aren't 1960s bias ply tires.
Called pampering. In reality I park on carpet-like door mats in the garage all year long. Prevents hot tires from staining tile flooring.

[bluesrt]

good idea on the floor staining, I have not had a viper tire flatspot, only car that has not done that

[Martin]

It really depends on where you live and what the climate is like. If you live in a very cold climate with low humidity during the winter, it's probably best to just leave it be. Change the oil before storage, and then change it again when you put back into service.

If you're in a warmer climate with a bit more humidity, my routine is to start every couple of weeks, run the AC and the heater to get the inside of the car as hot and dry as possible, sit and listen to the stereo, and also get the engine up to the high end of operating temperature for at least 30 minutes to burn off any water condensation. Keep the gas tank topped off to avoid condensation from ambient air so that your fuel system stays clean. Finally, I use Red Line oil which supposedly has some polar properties which make it adhere to the cylinder walls a bit better than lower class grade oils.

If you really want to get anal about it, after you've heated the car up and burned off all the nasties, "fog" the PCV valve with light synthetic engine oil (0w20) until the exhaust smokes blue to put a layer of oil on the entire combustion chamber and intake/exhaust valves.

Honestly, it's a lot of work and probably overkill - but it does give me something to do other than wash the car on weekends during the winter.

[ViperJon]

Change the oil before storage, and then change it again when you put back into service.

Lol wut? Do you have stock in Pennzoil?

[Purple Haze]

Thanks Martin and the rest of you...

[Martin]

Lol wut? Do you have stock in Pennzoil?

No, but I do have stock in Shell :) Actually, I've always been told that the additives in the oil get used up while the oil sits in the crankcase, or they precipitate out during the winter. So, the advice I've been given was to do a change at the end of the season and the beginning of the season. Granted, that was for a season up north that went from June to October - and in storage the rest of the time.

Keep in mind, I'm the guy that everyone flamed for doing an analysis on how many times it takes to do an oil change to make an engine replacement economically more viable. My take on it is that if you're driving your car regularly, you can do ten track events before it makes sense to change the oil. But, that's another story. I just do things because it gives me peace of mind sometimes.

[1ststrike]

Purple envy!!!!

[Chorps]

No, but I do have stock in Shell :) Actually, I've always been told that the additives in the oil get used up while the oil sits in the crankcase, or they precipitate out during the winter. So, the advice I've been given was to do a change at the end of the season and the beginning of the season. Granted, that was for a season up north that went from June to October - and in storage the rest of the time.

Keep in mind, I'm the guy that everyone flamed for doing an analysis on how many times it takes to do an oil change to make an engine replacement economically more viable. My take on it is that if you're driving your car regularly, you can do ten track events before it makes sense to change the oil. But, that's another story. I just do things because it gives me peace of mind sometimes.

That doesn't sound right to me, or else they'd tell you to shake your oil bottle before use or it would have a 'best before date' printed on it. So fresh oil in an engine vs fresh oil in a bottle should be pretty much the same over winter.

[supersnake]

They are not bias tires but in my Old garage, I never had a flat spot. When we built our new home I installed in floor heat. Never got flat spots on my Vipers but my Ram SRT 10 got them, My Prowler got them. Actually carpet squares do help on a heated floor, I know I have proven they work on my cars
If your floor is heated then there is seriously no need for carpet squares, rolling car, etc etc etc.

These aren't 1960s bias ply tires.

[Purple Haze]

Right!!!



Purple envy!!!!

[bluesrt]

No, but I do have stock in Shell :) Actually, I've always been told that the additives in the oil get used up while the oil sits in the crankcase, or they precipitate out during the winter. So, the advice I've been given was to do a change at the end of the season and the beginning of the season. Granted, that was for a season up north that went from June to October - and in storage the rest of the time.

Keep in mind, I'm the guy that everyone flamed for doing an analysis on how many times it takes to do an oil change to make an engine replacement economically more viable. My take on it is that if you're driving your car regularly, you can do ten track events before it makes sense to change the oil. But, that's another story. I just do things because it gives me peace of mind sometimes.

whoever told you that is bullshitting you

[Drlee50]

I start mine in my heated garage. Why? valve springs. I dont want them sitting with half of them compressed and half not for 6 months. If you choose not to start it, you should at least bump the engine over .

[J TNT]

I start every 6 weeks for 20 minutes, mainly so 1/2 my valve springs don't stay open for 6 months. I've sent my oil in for analysis and it comes back good. I'm no expert but it's been working for the last 30 years.

[ViperDC]

It really depends on where you live and what the climate is like. If you live in a very cold climate with low humidity during the winter, it's probably best to just leave it be. Change the oil before storage, and then change it again when you put back into service.

If you're in a warmer climate with a bit more humidity, my routine is to start every couple of weeks, run the AC and the heater to get the inside of the car as hot and dry as possible, sit and listen to the stereo, and also get the engine up to the high end of operating temperature for at least 30 minutes to burn off any water condensation. Keep the gas tank topped off to avoid condensation from ambient air so that your fuel system stays clean. Finally, I use Red Line oil which supposedly has some polar properties which make it adhere to the cylinder walls a bit better than lower class grade oils.

If you really want to get anal about it, after you've heated the car up and burned off all the nasties, "fog" the PCV valve with light synthetic engine oil (0w20) until the exhaust smokes blue to put a layer of oil on the entire combustion chamber and intake/exhaust valves.

Honestly, it's a lot of work and probably overkill - but it does give me something to do other than wash the car on weekends during the winter.

this place is turning into corvetteforum

[bluesrt]

maybe we should move this discussion to the alley

[kuishe]

I read the comments above & they vary. I aint sure but am thinking isnt start up weekly a good idea to keep the organs coated to prevent rust & corrosion?

For those that says change oil & filter then put it away & not start it at all, what about just drain & leave it empty? Will the pan rust & corrode?

PS I got an enclosed heated/insulated garage...

BTW this link says to spin the wheels to keep the diff well coated...

https://www.vipermagazine.com/viper-differential-lubrication-service/

[Voice of Reason]

You just bumped a winter storage thread in the middle of September...

I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul.

[kuishe]

You just bumped a winter storage thread in the middle of September...

I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul.

Haha the thread was started in may though. But it's good to chat up early anyways so plenty of time to share ideas...

[Policy Limits]

How long can kuhmo tires sit before developing flat spots?

[OTHER SNAKE OWNER]

Just to add from my lack of knowledge:

1. buy some desiccant bags. Can be found online easily, local brick and mortar stores, not as easy. Put in cabin in various places

2. I read somewhere years ago, that while modern tires are not prone to flat spotting (mine on my Cobra still do (resolve is just drive for a few miles)), putting tires on carpet squares (modern carpet) is very bad on the rubber due to all the chemicals/synthetics they put in the carpet fibers nowadays (think of carpets treated with products like Stainmaster). Supposedly, the chemicals/synthetics seep into the rubber and cause premature breakdown of the rubber compound. Let me emphasize, this is what I read. Truth or not, I am no chemist

[13COBRA]

Put it up at jacks and roll at 3k rpms for 30 minutes every morning...it'll put a smile on your face if nothing else.

[Policy Limits]

Welp, after sitting for a month with ice, snow and freezing cold temps outside (which is the longest stretch I've gone of not driving it in one year of ownership) I got a freak weather break today. The sun is blazing and temps are near 50....in the north east in xmas week. So I figured I won't have this opportunity until march-ish. I went for it. Fuel gauge was reading half so I started by filing the tank. The tires, which were my main concern (no concern with the corsa's on my old snake) were down a few pounds each as would be expected. My garage isn't heated but it's well insulated and finished inside. I did a lot of first and second gear around town to get them warmed up and then did some upper gears briefly on a short highway run. 17 miles was just enough to warm her up and burn off any condensation. Back on the lift though and noticed dirt and salt under the rocker panels and in rear wheels. Put the lift halfway up and it washed off with ease. No flat spots on the tires. Guess the kuhmo's are good stagnant for at least one month....

[cubeman]

The past two NYC area winters for the hellcat (This is it's 3rd) I just throw it in the garage and it turns right on no problem during the first start up of spring. With the viper I'm taking some extra pre-caution both cars were put away this weekend and my friend told me his ACR-E went dead after 1 month of no start. Got a Battery Tender Jr for my viper and attached it. Took around 16 hours for the Jr to charge the battery fully after starting the car to move it over a little. It's now in maintain/trickle charge mode. Car literally is on the red dot for gas

[V10]

Even in the Northeast there are good days.
I just wait for those days and drive.
That’s what’s best for the car.

[swexlin]

Even in the Northeast there are good days.
I just wait for those days and drive.
That’s what’s best for the car.

Agree, but the come weeks or months apart. My car has set a couple months at a stretch on the charger. No issues (yet, knock LOTS of wood!) Probably just jinxed myself. Been sitting now since 11/25, and with our roads covered in salt, and no significant prolonged rain in the forecast (maybe a little on Christmas Day) it's not going anywhere anywhere soon.

[mackzilla]

I'll start and drive it once every two weeks for you. Just give me the garage code.

xoxo

Mack

[Dr.Ron]

I started mine Thursday for the 1st time since the end of October. It barely cranked and fired right up as if I had just shut it off 5 minutes ago! Awesome!

It's been sitting on a battery tender. I put Stabil in the fuel tank, which I parked at full.

Ron

[Policy Limits]

That's 1/2 year; any flat spots on the tires?

[Dr.Ron]

No, thankfuly!