Let s talk Gen IV oil pan gasket

[Racer_X]

Morning all,

I'm finally getting around to swapping the oil pan gasket and oil cooler lines on my Gen IV ACR. My cooler lines are leaking, and it appears that I have some seepage around rim of the oil pan. While there is a detailed "what to expect" for the oil cooler lines, there is nothing (that I have found) documented about the pan (at least for the Gen IV/ Gen V). I'm aware that the Gen IV pans have swing oil sump- is there any i need to avoid in relation to it? Also, what are the 4 bolts in the bottom of the pan? Do they need a gasket as well? I realize it's straightforward forward for the über mechanics here, but I like to approach a challenge with all my eyes open! Ha! Thanks a million in advance.

[Racer_X]

Oh, and I will vlog the install of the cooler lines and oul pan gasket, off of my lift to show the everyman, that ANY man can do it with a handful of tools!

[Redx]

Are you sure the oil isnt just running down the block making it appear the pan gasket is leaking?

Anyways, remove all the bolts on the pan, it should drop down after breaking the surface tension of the oil pan gasket. If it doesn't drop down more than 2'-3", dont force it, you will have to squeeze your hand in there and position the swing arm through the cutout of the pan. Reverse in same order, use the torque procedures in the stickys, put a dab of black gasket maker on all 4 corners and blue loctite on the bolts. The factory had so much loctite in there i had to re tap a few of the threads.

[jaxtk]

09 - Engine, 8.4L/Lubrication/PAN, Oil/Removal
REMOVAL
Labor Operations: Click to display a list of Labor Operations associated with this procedure







NOTE:
To aid in oil pan removal, fabricate a pick up alignment tool from a coat hanger.





1.
Raise vehicle on hoist.


2.
Drain engine oil.


3.
Remove flywheel inspection cover (1).





4.
Remove oil filter (1).


5.
Remove fasteners (2) securing A/C line to oil pan.





6.
Remove transmission to oil pan fasteners (1,2).





7.
Remove oil pan bolts and break RTV loose.



NOTE:
Oil pick-up tube must be aligned properly to remove pan.






8.
Insert alignment tool (2) in through the oil drain hole and slightly angle it towards the front of the engine.


9.
Try to hook oil pump pick-up (1) with alignment tool (2).






10.
After hooking the oil pump pick up, move alignment tool (2) so the mark (1) is by the edge of the oil drain hole.


11.
Lift oil pan from engine block.



NOTE:
Clean and inspect oil pan gasket. The pan gasket can be used again if in good condition. Replace oil pan gasket if the waffle pad area is damaged, or if the inner rubber bead is damaged.

[Racer_X]

Good looking out, Red! Yes, im sure it's not oil running down the block-- i actually have seep marks on the pan. Also, what are the four bolts on the bottom of the pan?

[Racer_X]

Thank you, Jax!! Im going to get a detailed write up/ video of the procedure. Done a ton of oil pans, never one on a Viper, and since Im wrench happy, I figure why not. Anyhow stay tuned- Im waiting on my RSI oil lines and my pan gasket.

[Back In Black]

Also, what are the four bolts on the bottom of the pan?

I've had my pan off a couple times. Not sure what you're referring to.

[jaxtk]

Good looking out, Red! Yes, im sure it's not oil running down the block-- i actually have seep marks on the pan. Also, what are the four bolts on the bottom of the pan?

The four bolts at the back off the pan go into the rear main oil seal retainer, make sure you put sealer on the shoulder of these bolts.

[firefighter196]

The 4 bolts on the bottom of the pan are the pan bolts for the passenger side of the oil pan they are longer. There is no room on the passenger side of the pan as it has bulge on that side. There is also 4 smaller bolts at the back of the pan hidden by a cover plate fastened to the transmission. There is also 2 bolts that are a different thread holding the oil lines to the pan that have to be removed, use a floor jack under the pan to help lower it to the ground.

[Back In Black]

The 4 bolts on the bottom of the pan are the pan bolts for the passenger side of the oil pan they are longer. There is no room on the passenger side of the pan as it has bulge on that side. There is also 4 smaller bolts at the back of the pan hidden by a cover plate fastened to the transmission. There is also 2 bolts that are a different thread holding the oil lines to the pan that have to be removed, use a floor jack under the pan to help lower it to the ground.

There are 5 long bolts on the passenger side. The four bolts on the back of the pan go into the rear main seal retainer. I wouldn't consider them on the "bottom".

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/krefly/99%20GTS/oil%20pan_zpsxnm0acvk.png (http://s117.photobucket.com/user/krefly/media/99%20GTS/oil%20pan_zpsxnm0acvk.png.html)

FYI...torque specs are:

1 - 15 (200 in. lbs.)
16-19 (95 in. lbs.)

[Racer_X]

My man, Black-- thank you!! Yes, I meant the 5 on the bottom-- wasn't sure, but I knew there were at least 4, ha!! Anyhow, my RSI lines should be here either today or tomorrow- then I can drain the oil and get started. I will upload a video to my YouTube account.

[Racer_X]

Well… I got it all installed and it's way easier than you would think. I'm editing the video, and I will post it to my YouTube page shortly. Thank you guys

[Redx]

Did you notice a tear in the gasket or anything? The gaskets are usually pretty robust

[Racer_X]

Definitely no tears, just a geberal breakdown of the of the rubbery gasket section of the aluminum gasket. They are quite robust, but apparently not impervious to breakdown.

[Racer_X]

Hey guys!! Many thanks for your help on this one!! The video is up on YouTube. Please take 22mins to watch it and let me know what you think.
https://youtu.be/NV2wiQS8Yj8