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Goat19642004
04-18-2017, 08:07 PM
24898

This code showed up today while out for a cruise. Car still runs fine and starts well. I checked all connections under the hood and all seems to be in order. Can I pull a fuse to reset the PCM and see if the code comes back before I make an appointment at the dealer? If so, what fuse and how long to pull.
Thanks!

bluesrt
04-18-2017, 08:42 PM
That stament pretty much sums it up. Have them fix it

Mark1107
04-18-2017, 10:43 PM
Go to: pepboys oreilleys autozone buy a code reader clear the freaking code and see if it comes back. If not you can thank me. If it does go to dealer. You have a 100k car. A code reader is 50 bucks. :lol2:

Jet Slicker
04-18-2017, 10:59 PM
I have that exact same code on my car. No check engine light, but it's in the diagnostic menu on the cluster. The code has been on the car since I bought it a week ago and it seems a bit easier to stall out than I would think, which is a symptom of a vacuum leak. But I haven't driven it without the code so who knows. Maybe it's not even active since the check engine light isn't on. My car is scheduled to go into the dealer next week. Hope everything works out with you on the matter!

Arizona Vipers
04-18-2017, 11:33 PM
Go to: pepboys oreilleys autozone buy a code reader clear the freaking code and see if it comes back. If not you can thank me. If it does go to dealer. You have a 100k car. A code reader is 50 bucks. :lol2:

Why would he do that when his car is under warranty? I would take it straight to the dealer.

Corjet
04-19-2017, 02:35 AM
I had this code back when the car had an aftermarket air box then I reverted back to stock air intake and the code disappeared + go to the dealer it's a simple relearn but the code will appear again if you have an aftermarket intake (my car used to go into limp mode at hard throttle and this code appeared ) and if u drive it like a granny the check engine light will dissapear but the code will be in your diagnostic code reader

Goat19642004
04-19-2017, 06:28 AM
I have that exact same code on my car. No check engine light, but it's in the diagnostic menu on the cluster. The code has been on the car since I bought it a week ago and it seems a bit easier to stall out than I would think, which is a symptom of a vacuum leak. But I haven't driven it without the code so who knows. Maybe it's not even active since the check engine light isn't on. My car is scheduled to go into the dealer next week. Hope everything works out with you on the matter!

I also think my car seems easier to stall than it should be. I really need to feather the clutch more than my 04. Time to call for an appointment.

swexlin
04-19-2017, 06:33 AM
Yes, brand new car, under warranty. Let you Viper tech handle it.

Policy Limits
04-19-2017, 06:40 AM
17 car? Damn it. Keep us posted.

XXX BLK
04-19-2017, 07:06 AM
My 2017 check engine light came on after 400 miles
Code:0305
Cylinder 5 Misfire detected
Took it to the dealer and they fixed it. Also bought a code reader from amazon.

dewilmoth
04-19-2017, 07:30 AM
I also think my car seems easier to stall than it should be. I really need to feather the clutch more than my 04. Time to call for an appointment.

I don't have any other Viper experience to compare against, but my 2016 is next to impossible to stall. If you have to feather the throttle, that sounds a lot like a vacuum leak to me, given the code that's popping.

Goat19642004
04-19-2017, 10:39 AM
I don't have any other Viper experience to compare against, but my 2016 is next to impossible to stall. If you have to feather the throttle, that sounds a lot like a vacuum leak to me, given the code that's popping.
My 2004 was like that. I could almost dump the clutch from idle and it would not stall. In my 17, you've gotta feather the clutch like my 64 GTO.

City
04-19-2017, 12:52 PM
I can't speak to a Gen 5, but with most prior STOCK Gens, many of these CELs go away on their own after 5-10 restarts. Never a bad idea to visit the dealer if it's convenient, but if your car is stock and you've got the patience, you may notice that it's simply gone one morning.

Martin
04-19-2017, 01:20 PM
My 2004 was like that. I could almost dump the clutch from idle and it would not stall. In my 17, you've gotta feather the clutch like my 64 GTO.

I haven't gotten any CELs yet, but I definitely notice that I have to feather the clutch quite a bit on my '17. I chalked it up to the really tall first gear, but I'll keep an eye out for a CEL. On my Gen IV and Gen II, I don't think I've ever stalled - even in boring stop and go traffic. On the Gen V, I've stalled it twice now in traffic (and once it didn't want to re-start - and when it did, it blew a huge cloud of black smoke out the pipes). May be something amiss - and this thread is giving me a heads-up to keep an eye out for potential codes as I get more miles racked up.

swexlin
04-19-2017, 01:27 PM
First time I drove my Gen 5, I stalled it twice. Very different from my Gen 3.

jaxtk
04-19-2017, 02:45 PM
First time I drove my Gen 5, I stalled it twice. Very different from my Gen 3.

Due too aluminum flywheel!

Special Ed
04-19-2017, 03:06 PM
Due too aluminum flywheel!

This is true. No light weight flywheels on the earlier Gen's. I don't even notice it anymore.

Martin
04-19-2017, 03:54 PM
Due too aluminum flywheel!

Good point - the only other cars I've driven that had super light rotating assemblies were European. I had to rev the crap out of those and be really careful with the gas and clutch to keep them from stalling out. It's not too hard to get used to, and honestly, I like the tall 1st gear from a performance perspective. I haven't done it yet, but I think it's good to about 62 MPH from memory.

swexlin
04-19-2017, 03:59 PM
Due too aluminum flywheel!

Yep!

Jack B
04-19-2017, 04:08 PM
Why would he do that when his car is under warranty? I would take it straight to the dealer.

I would also clear the code first, much easier and safer (in most cases ) than making a dealer appt.

Policy Limits
04-19-2017, 04:28 PM
If dealer is a must I hear papa's cdjr is reputable in central Connecticut, which is still probably a trailer ride from your location (see dealer friendly thread) I hate dealers for warranty service like most but when it's become necessary you want to be selective. Tator's garage the other direction from you has a good following but he's not an authorized dealer so I'd take that with a grain of salt personally. Chambers in northern MA did all of my recall work on my first one and was trustworthy. Good luck

ACRSNK
04-19-2017, 04:30 PM
Hmmmm...I would take it straight to the dealer (preferably one with a good Viepr Tech) and let them take car of the issue instead of trying to clear the code on your own. Car is brand new. Let the dealer take car of it for you.

Keep us posted.

Goat19642004
04-19-2017, 04:38 PM
Appointment made for Friday at my Dodge dealer in Canandaigua NY. I'll post the results.

Jack B
04-19-2017, 09:11 PM
It takes seconds to clear that code and there is no negative to clearing the code. It is hard to argue that that task is harder than the dealer route. If it comes back, the dealer is the best option.

OP:
Maybe before the dealer option, you can also rule out some common vacuum issues (for any car), a loose PCV valve hose (pass side eng center) and the brake booster hose (dr side eng rear), after that the dealer is probably the best option. As you can tell, I consider a dealer appointment similar to a dentist appointment. It is not the competence level, it is just the time and effort, plus, the slight possibility of someone at the dealer accidentally damaging the car.


Hmmmm...I would take it straight to the dealer (preferably one with a good Viepr Tech) and let them take car of the issue instead of trying to clear the code on your own. Car is brand new. Let the dealer take car of it for you.

Keep us posted.

Mark1107
04-21-2017, 01:08 AM
It takes seconds to clear that code and there is no negative to clearing the code. It is hard to argue that that task is harder than the dealer route. If it comes back, the dealer is the best option.

OP:
Maybe before the dealer option, you can also rule out some common vacuum issues (for any car), a loose PCV valve hose (pass side eng center) and the brake booster hose (dr side eng rear), after that the dealer is probably the best option. As you can tell, I consider a dealer appointment similar to a dentist appointment. It is not the competence level, it is just the time and effort, plus, the slight possibility of someone at the dealer accidentally damaging the car.

:t15197::United_States:;):t0135::z:


Thank you! Amen. Preach brother preach! I completely agree.

Goat19642004
04-21-2017, 05:50 PM
Well just got her back. Code was in memory but not currently active. Dealer did however notice some odd readings and called Chrysler tech to confirm findings. They recommended to drain and fill up with fresh quality fuel. No answers on why she set a code but run parameters in spec after fueling.
Hard to tell what happend with fuel it was filled up at dealer when I bought it .
Lesson learned about quality gas and vipers.