Process of buying a Gen 1, beginner's questions

[MuRCieLaGo]

Hi all! Like I said on another thread, I've got a couple of questions for you guys.

I'm working on a tug boat right now and it's pretty hard to search with my cell phone. I know I probably could've found some of the answers on the forum.

1. Head gaskets: do they only leak from outside?
2. Head gaskets: if they haven't been changed and there's no leak, should I change them anyway?
3. Hard top: I think I saw somewhere that some 95s were equipped with OEM hard tops, however I cannot find the link anymore. Am I right?
4. Hard top: I think 96 and ups are equipped with hard tops. Can I buy one and put it on a 95 and below?
5. Soft top and windows: can I still drive with these on? If not, can I still go for a 30mph ride or so to the grocery?
6. Tires: 335s must be pretty rare. Should it be a concern?
7. Some people told me 1st Gen Vipers aren't fast. Are they wrong? By the numbers I know they produce 400hp. But still?
8. I've seen that with the Diablo, it's one of the most dangerous car to drive. Is it that bad or they only refer to late Vipers?
9. Exhaust sound: does it sound good? Might be a stupid question but I can't find any good sound clip on YouTube, especially at higher RPM.
10. Headlights gap with hood: I know it's a common issue on those. Can I just ask my local body shop to adjust it even if it takes them 10 hours?

Thanks!

[Camfab]

As far as head gaskets go, they need to be changed. Some early changes were done with the same inferior gaskets. Feeling slow is all relative to what your used too. Exhaust sound is subjective, if you like UPS trucks you'll be in heaven. Gen I's represent a piece of history, they are special and unique in their own right.

[RedTanRT/10]

Answers to your questions as best I can. You'll fine alot of Gen 1 information on the vca site. Also, reach out to folks like Dan Cragin, Eddie Martin, Jonb @ PartsRack, Mark @ Woodhouse, etc. Good luck on your search, I've owned a '94 since '96. Mike


Hi all! Like I said on another thread, I've got a couple of questions for you guys.

I'm working on a tug boat right now and it's pretty hard to search with my cell phone. I know I probably could've found some of the answers on the forum.

1. Head gaskets: do they only leak from outside? Outside is where you'll clearly detect leaks. Search the vca archives, they'll point you in the most common area of leaking
2. Head gaskets: if they haven't been changed and there's no leak, should I change them anyway? The original head gaskets are weak, it's more of "when not if" they'll start to seep. Replacement head gaskets are much improved.
3. Hard top: I think I saw somewhere that some 95s were equipped with OEM hard tops, however I cannot find the link anymore. Am I right? I believe the '96's were the first to have the hardtop optional, and that same top can be retrofitted for earlier models. Same is true with the sliding hard windows, started in '96. Hardtop's and soft tops for the generations are different, primarily due to the latch pins. Make sure you buy the correct top
4. Hard top: I think 96 and ups are equipped with hard tops. Can I buy one and put it on a 95 and below? Yes, see above, need to make sure if works for your specific year.
5. Soft top and windows: can I still drive with these on? If not, can I still go for a 30mph ride or so to the grocery? If properly installed they're fine for driving, with speed limitations Seems like in the early years owners reported the soft top would pull off at 100-120 plus mph.
6. Tires: 335s must be pretty rare. Should it be a concern? Best bet would be to upgrade to later model, or aftermarket 18" wheels. I have the G2 '99-02 wheels and they will look great and a nice set can be had for $1000 Tires are limited on both the 17's and 18's. Toyo 888's are a good option. Reach out to JonB @ PartsRack, he can help and give you good advise.
7. Some people told me 1st Gen Vipers aren't fast. Are they wrong? By the numbers I know they produce 400hp. But still? They were lightning fast in 1992-1996, but that was 20 plus years ago. (Search the web and see 0-60, 0-100 times and compare to something late model). Still have ton's of torque and if you plan on keeping you'll want to add hp, the first additional 50 rwhp is not too expensive
8. I've seen that with the Diablo, it's one of the most dangerous car to drive. Is it that bad or they only refer to late Vipers? The issue is big torque, you need to peddle the throttle. Issue #2 is cold or old tires, warm the tires and ditch 5 year old tires regardless of tread depth. I read an article once that said, "if you ask a viper owner owner if he's ever looped the car and he said no, then he's lying or never drove the car hard." I totally agree.
9. Exhaust sound: does it sound good? Might be a stupid question but I can't find any good sound clip on YouTube, especially at higher RPM. Stock exhaust won't impress you, all the old magazine tests said it sounded like a loud UPS truck. You're not going to get ferrari sound out of 5 pipes each side. Ton's of aftermarket exhaust sets up that will make the sound better, add HP, and reduce side sill and in cabin heat.
10. Headlights gap with hood: I know it's a common issue on those. Can I just ask my local body shop to adjust it even if it takes them 10 hours? Most gaps are pretty good from the factory, bad gaps usually indicate a wreck and replacement. There not easy to get correct, and lots' of shims. Reach out or search dave666 on this and other viper boards, he's an expert on getting great hood alignment

Thanks!

[99RT10]

^^^^Mike killed it above^^^

The cars are great, no matter what year. I had a bone stock 96 Rt and it went 12.2 in the 1/4. After some exhaust mods, 11.8. For a 20 year year old car, pretty damn good, and very reliable.

If you need a top, PM me.

[RedTanRT/10]

Murcie, forgot to reference 99RT10, he's been around forever and can get/find you a ton of great used (and hard to find) parts. Lot's of satisfied customers in the viper world

[mak1118]

No factory hard tops for Gen 1s
Believe you can get tires still, replaced mine recently
I hardly ever put on the soft top, it's a roadster ..... I never put on the windows
They're not as fast as these new cars but they still get up and go
Don't understand the dangerous thing so I guess I never drove my car hard :)
Exhaust sounds great imo, better than the Gen5 for sure at idle, I have them both, screams at higher rpm
Sometimes guys don't close the hood correctly so there is a gap otherwise probably been in an accident

[SlowPoke McGee]

Gen 1's are fun. Gen 1's with 3.73 gears are epic. Slow?? Haha and also HA!~ Slap some 19-335's on the back. Some 18-315's on the front. Stop overthinking. Just buy and enjoy.

[SlowPoke McGee]

^^^^Mike killed it above^^^

The cars are great, no matter what year. I had a bone stock 96 Rt and it went 12.2 in the 1/4. After some exhaust mods, 18.8. For a 20 year year old car, pretty damn good, and very reliable.

If you need a top, PM me.

It went much slower after the exhaust mod?

[SlowPoke McGee]

Headlights gap with hood: I know it's a common issue on those. Can I just ask my local body shop to adjust it even if it takes them 10 hours? Most gaps are pretty good from the factory, bad gaps usually indicate a wreck and replacement. There not easy to get correct, and lots' of shims. Reach out or search dave666 on this and other viper boards, he's an expert on getting great hood alignment

Reading between the lines, does this mean his car is likely a salvage rebuild? Is this why he's always scavenging spare parts? :smilielol:

[Steve-Indy]

Actually, some early exhaust mods were associated with less torque or less horsepower...or both.

[SlowPoke McGee]

Actually, some early exhaust mods were associated with less torque or less horsepower...or both.

Good to know. If I want my Viper to go from fast to "one tonne supercab" slow, add some Belangers

[99RT10]

It went much slower after the exhaust mod?

LOL, fixed :D

[1BADV10]

If you find a nice gen 1 without a hard top go to Autoform.com and talk to Steve, he will set you up with a top....very good products!!

[ACRSNK]

Was going to answer your questions, but you already have all your answers. Good luck and keep us posted.

[mak1118]

I've never taken my '95 to the track and I have read many articles that say the Gen1s are dangerous to drive on the street, the track is not mentioned. I don't get it, I don't find it dangerous at all to drive. If the tires get old they will slide and they don't have airbags so maybe that's what they are talking about or maybe you don't have the top with you and it starts to rain..:)
The new ones are more dangerous just because of how much more power they have imo.

[ACRSNK]

I'm pretty sure they are dangerous because of all the traffic jams and accidents they cause from people gawking at the while driving. :)

[Steve-Indy]

Aside from old tires, the main hazard for a new Viper driver (particularly Gen I, II, and III) is the massive and unexpected low end torque. For Corvette, Porsche, Ferrari, drivers is the built in tendency to expect torque to arrive at higher RPM's...only to find that they spun out at a much lower RPM. Gen IV and V Vipers have a torque band that kicks in closer to 3800 RPM...not 1600 to 2000 RPM. Freeway ramp entrances have collected many, many Vipers in their guard tails...especially if associated with a 1st to 2nd shift.

As to general risk of a Viper vs. others...look of the stats from the 1990's through early 2000's at the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. Ever heard that nearly 50% of Vipers have been wrecked??!!!

Although I have over 20 years of driving all Generations, I keep a sign in the garage that says:

"This machine has no brain...use your own".

Final comment: Our Gen I is a blast to drive and it will do exactly what the driver asks of it...rough ride but pure joy !!

[1BADV10]

Very well said Steve-Indy, perfectly explains what I have learned about my gen II. Never wrecked it but it earned my respect for low end torque a few times, lol.

[Viper Red]

You will love not just driving it, but owning it as well.

[viperman4125]

Hi,
I may have one for sale .
PM me to discuss.
Dave

[Jay]

Some great questions and answers here, made for a very helpful read

[SlowPoke McGee]

You will love not just driving it, but owning it as well.

Yeah it's true. I don't know if anyone else has noticed but in my area, this year, there are hardly ever any for sale. Last year people were liquidating them, it seemed.

Still amazes me the head turning ability this stock car can capture considering it's 22 years old. While the Gen 2's have a more refined grace, the Gen 1's are unapologetic...in their rawness.

[SlowPoke McGee]

[QUOTE=Steve-Indy;283447]
As to general risk of a Viper vs. others...look of the stats from the 1990's through early 2000's at the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. Ever heard that nearly 50% of Vipers have been wrecked??!!!

I'm still trying to figure this one out. The car is raw but it doesn't have that kind of power, does it?? Really? I wish my car had that kind of power. With stock 3.07 gears it takes all kinds of idiocy to pull off a 50% crash rating.

[BrianACR]

Yeah it's true. I don't know if anyone else has noticed but in my area, this year, there are hardly ever any for sale. Last year people were liquidating them, it seemed.

Still amazes me the head turning ability this stock car can capture considering it's 22 years old. While the Gen 2's have a more refined grace, the Gen 1's are unapologetic...in their rawness.

They're especially noticeable when the roof is duct taped to the windshield to keep the wind from lifting it off when you're drivin down the highway.... LOL
Not that something like that ever happened to you though :smilielol:

[ssgsnake]

I have a 1995 that is all stock and gone threw buy chuck tator 3rd owner that I may sell pm if interested have everything except
Hard top for the car

[viperman4125]

[QUOTE=Steve-Indy;283447]
As to general risk of a Viper vs. others...look of the stats from the 1990's through early 2000's at the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. Ever heard that nearly 50% of Vipers have been wrecked??!!!

I'm still trying to figure this one out. The car is raw but it doesn't have that kind of power, does it?? Really? I wish my car had that kind of power. With stock 3.07 gears it takes all kinds of idiocy to pull off a 50% crash rating.

When these cars were new, ( i did not own one at that time GEN I ) the Avg, life of the car was 1700 miles before it was totaled. That's why there are so many in the Bone yard.
They had to teach the owners at that time how to handle these cars. 1700 miles-Done in!!

[Steve-Indy]

SlowPoke McGee, I understand your quandary. Let me add that in my opinion, the 3.07 rear end plays a significant role in one relatively low speed, fairly common Viper accident. Envision a new driver who has already experienced (dreaded by some)the pesky skip shift issue...the cure for which lies in pushing down of the gas pedal. Now, picture said driver sitting in his/her driveway waiting to pull out onto a busy street. As the driver carefully pulls our, and is making the turn, said 3.07 (tall gearing) seems to bog, so the driver compensates with more gas...and, oops, the spin has just occurred. I can vote more than one of this accidents occurring in my own Region. Add cool weather with the concomitant increase in horsepower and the decreased traction of cold, high performance tires and one finds a second subset of my described scenario. The famous Zero Pressure ("runflats") delivered on 03-06 Vipers added another potential contribution to the situation.

The purpose of my post is to remind folks that the Snake can bite. In no way are my posts meant to disparage any other driver. Experience is a great teacher...some lessons of which can be more safely learned by historical analysis rather than direct participation. :)

[mak1118]

I live in Arizona so the cool weather and pavement might have something to do with it but I think the more likely reason is that some people just can't drive.

[SlowPoke McGee]

They're especially noticeable when the roof is duct taped to the windshield to keep the wind from lifting it off when you're drivin down the highway.... LOL
Not that something like that ever happened to you though :smilielol:

Shhhhh!! This is a public forum! You're letting all my secrets out! :smilielol:

[Shooter]

Some great questions and answers here, made for a very helpful read

That's a funny looking Viper you have as your avatar.

[Jay]

That's a funny looking Viper you have as your avatar.

:devilish:

[Geronimo]

:devilish:You will probably have to remove that soon lol

[Boosted Motorsports]

SlowPoke McGee, I understand your quandary. Let me add that in my opinion, the 3.07 rear end plays a significant role in one relatively low speed, fairly common Viper accident. Envision a new driver who has already experienced (dreaded by some)the pesky skip shift issue...the cure for which lies in pushing down of the gas pedal. Now, picture said driver sitting in his/her driveway waiting to pull out onto a busy street. As the driver carefully pulls our, and is making the turn, said 3.07 (tall gearing) seems to bog, so the driver compensates with more gas...and, oops, the spin has just occurred. I can vote more than one of this accidents occurring in my own Region. Add cool weather with the concomitant increase in horsepower and the decreased traction of cold, high performance tires and one finds a second subset of my described scenario. The famous Zero Pressure ("runflats") delivered on 03-06 Vipers added another potential contribution to the situation.

The purpose of my post is to remind folks that the Snake can bite. In no way are my posts meant to disparage any other driver. Experience is a great teacher...some lessons of which can be more safely learned by historical analysis rather than direct participation. :)

Interesting theory. I can definitely see the 3.07 instilling too much confidence and people stabbing the throttle but would a 3.55 or 3.73 be any better? Car is significantly more quicker with a gear change and throttle control is even more crucial.

[Steve-Indy]

In my opinion, the major and recurring causes are lack of experience in platform coupled with failure to appreciate KNOWN Viper history...and common theme found in many types of accidents. The inexperience of youth does come into play...as does the complacency of age in many cases.

[IndyRon]

I've always been a big supporter of a nice John Force style burn out prior to leaving the driveway to get tires nice and sticky for a drive but the wife gets so worked up over it

[Steve-Indy]

I hear that , Ron !! Hope things are well with you !!!

[SlowPoke McGee]

I let my dad take my car for a spin and he almost crashed it. The clutch and brake somehow threw him off and he pushed down on the brake thinking it was the clutch. While he was doing 50mph. He knows how to drive standards, but the distance and spacing somehow threw him off. Thankfully nobody was behind him lol or he would've been another Viper statistic. And my insurance probably wouldn't have paid out.:h1504:

[MuRCieLaGo]

Well thank you very much for all your replies here guys, very informative. I live in Canada so with the exchange rate right now it's not so interesting for me to shop in the US market.

However...

I'm not satisfied with one question.

10. Headlights gap with hood: I know it's a common issue on those. Can I just ask my local body shop to adjust it even if it takes them 10 hours?

I see those gaps EVERYWHERE. You are saying that they are all due to a previous wreck? 2392123922

[mak1118]

Mine is close to the headlight where you are pointing on yours but it does not touch the headlight. The red one looks right as long as it is not touching the headlight, the silver one is not right, imo. The gap you are showing on the silver acr is too big, the same gap on my car is about a 1/4" and the exact same on both sides. I'm just going by looking at my car, I know for sure it's never been in an accident.

[Steve-Indy]

This one is tough.Our 95 is worse than our 96 R/T 10...While our Gen II's are decent. One can adjust the gaps slightly with the bumper stops and once in a while slight, careful adjustments of the hood hinges.

Several Vipers that I have seen have "problematic" front fascias. Here is where a very careful pre-purchase inspection can save one from a ton of grief. Sometimes, the first tip off is a dry coolant overflow bottle in the right side of the nose. While this can by owner negligence (or ignorance), it should be tested to see if there is a hole in the bottom. By removing the small closeout panel on the passenger side of the fascia's bottom, one can inspect for a hole in the bottle. If present, it generally means that the nose "tapped" something...like a curb causing the excessively long closeout panel bolt to be jammed upward into the bottle. At this point, inspect the rest of the fascia carefully as well as the "plastic" radiator surround that also anchors both the headlights and the radiator. Severe (and expensive) damage can be easily missed here by inexperienced eyes. I have seen one R/T 10 whose gap at the hood to fascia looked a little off...only to find large lag bolts drilled in to the nose from inside the hood in a pathetic attempt to "true up" the gap. This car also had stacks of fender washers shimming the headlights into an apparent (but unstable) position.

The REAL Viper mechanics such as Tator, Sessions, Cragin, Steve at Autoform and some others can handle most of these situations...but not necessarily cheaply if there is significant damage.

As I recall, dave6666 has a good write up on these adjustments on one of the forums.

[SlowPoke McGee]

Sometimes, the first tip off is a dry coolant overflow bottle in the right side of the nose. While this can by owner negligence (or ignorance), it should be tested to see if there is a hole in the bottom. By removing the small closeout panel on the passenger side of the fascia's bottom, one can inspect for a hole in the bottle. If present, it generally means that the nose "tapped" something...like a curb causing the excessively long closeout panel bolt to be jammed upward into the bottle.

Very interesting. There was a hole in my overflow bottle which I discovered after purchase. I had no idea how it got there. This clears it up. Good info Steve!

[Steve-Indy]

Many remove that one bolt, shorten it, then reinstall it with no further risk. I must say, Tom Sessions has taught many of us to look much more closely at these cars...from underneath !;

[SlowPoke McGee]

Not hard to bump the nose while driving. I can't imagine dropping another 2" from stock. I'd be hitting small rocks on the road let alone the pot holes. In Alberta that isn't a question of "if" but "when".

[MuRCieLaGo]

Do you have a picture of that hole in the overflow tank...? I don't get it.

[GTS Dean]

I had a '93 for 3 years that I tracked quite a bit and traded it on my GTS. The handling and overall comfort level was strikingly improved. That said, I've driven some Gen 1s since then and have found them to be quite fun to drive. They are definitely more tail-happy than the Gen 2 cars, owing to shock valving and suspension geometry improvements. Treat them with respect and you will have a ball!

Fascia/headlamp adjustment procedures:

[MuRCieLaGo]

Wow GTS Dean thanks for the pictures! Got them saved preciously on my computer. From what I've read, these cars will bite you if you drive them too hard. I'm used to driving hard forgiving cars (ZR-1, RX-7), I'm gonna have to calm down.

I'm having an additional question here.

There's one Viper I'm digging now, but unfortunately it's an American car (I am in Canada) and speedometer is in miles. I want it in kilometers. I guess it would be a pretty simple replacement, however do you think the dealer will sell me a 0 kms speedometer? How can I have it adjusted to the current mileage (in kilometers)? I think that if I ask the dealer to adjust it, they will have to put a sticker saying that the cluster has been changed. I don't want that!

[BrianACR]

Wow GTS Dean thanks for the pictures! Got them saved preciously on my computer. From what I've read, these cars will bite you if you drive them too hard. I'm used to driving hard forgiving cars (ZR-1, RX-7), I'm gonna have to calm down.

I'm having an additional question here.

There's one Viper I'm digging now, but unfortunately it's an American car (I am in Canada) and speedometer is in miles. I want it in kilometers. I guess it would be a pretty simple replacement, however do you think the dealer will sell me a 0 kms speedometer? How can I have it adjusted to the current mileage (in kilometers)? I think that if I ask the dealer to adjust it, they will have to put a sticker saying that the cluster has been changed. I don't want that!

Mine is originally an american car. The speedo does have some metric markings in it, but not many. It shows 0, 40, 80, 120...You just get good at converting in your head from MPH to KPH. You could probably find some kind of sticker to put over the existing speedometer to show everything in KPH.

[SlowPoke McGee]

Wow GTS Dean thanks for the pictures! Got them saved preciously on my computer. From what I've read, these cars will bite you if you drive them too hard. I'm used to driving hard forgiving cars (ZR-1, RX-7), I'm gonna have to calm down.

I'm having an additional question here.

There's one Viper I'm digging now, but unfortunately it's an American car (I am in Canada) and speedometer is in miles. I want it in kilometers. I guess it would be a pretty simple replacement, however do you think the dealer will sell me a 0 kms speedometer? How can I have it adjusted to the current mileage (in kilometers)? I think that if I ask the dealer to adjust it, they will have to put a sticker saying that the cluster has been changed. I don't want that!


https://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/pts/6047832570.html


Sent from my iPad

[SlowPoke McGee]

Do you have a picture of that hole in the overflow tank...? I don't get it.

No unfortunately I didn't take a pic. But it was near the bottom and front of the tank. I couldn't figure out how the heck it got there. Thought it must've been one heck of a big sharp rock bouncing off the road.

[SlowPoke McGee]

Mine is originally an american car. The speedo does have some metric markings in it, but not many. It shows 0, 40, 80, 120...You just get good at converting in your head from MPH to KPH. You could probably find some kind of sticker to put over the existing speedometer to show everything in KPH.

Mines American too. I've just learned to guesstimate my speed although my guesstimations are more due to my 19" rear wheels throwing off the true speed. it's been a crapshoot. I've just received new 3.73 gears and a yellowbox though so hopefully I can dial in my true speed and not hope I'm within 15mph of the speed limit anymore.

[MuRCieLaGo]

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/pts/6047832570.html


Sent from my iPad

Thanks a lot for that link, dealer wanted over 700$ CAD for a metric speedometer.

3 more questions:

24146

There's the car.

1. I forgot to ask the seller... Where I live, we don't need any front license plate. You guys think I can remove the bracket, without any harm to the paint?

2. And he also told me the head gaskets were changed even if they were still good, and he put ROE racing head gaskets. Can't find any review of ROE racing on here though. Are they OK?

3. Well I've just seen on Wikipedia that the soft top is for indoor storage only. So what happens if the car is left outside and it rains...?

[GTS Dean]

No unfortunately I didn't take a pic. But it was near the bottom and front of the tank. I couldn't figure out how the heck it got there. Thought it must've been one heck of a big sharp rock bouncing off the road.

Look at the head-on photo of my car. At the bottom of my overflow tank, on the left, you'll see a dab of some black silicone. Immediately below that, you can see the J-nut that the 11mm bolt threads into. THAT bolt needs to be cut off by about 1/2", or replaced with one that is shorter.

[BrianACR]

Mines American too. I've just learned to guesstimate my speed although my guesstimations are more due to my 19" rear wheels throwing off the true speed. it's been a crapshoot. I've just received new 3.73 gears and a yellowbox though so hopefully I can dial in my true speed and not hope I'm within 15mph of the speed limit anymore.

Well, next time we are out for a rip, we can see how far off you are. Of course that means waiting for this wonderful snow to go away....

[SlowPoke McGee]

Well, next time we are out for a rip, we can see how far off you are. Of course that means waiting for this wonderful snow to go away....

I've already had the Beast out. Took it to a fiberglass shop last week to fix the hood cracks. Man he did a nice job. Blended in the paint and the cracks are gone! Can't tell where he blended at all. Also have him refinishing the sidesills so they'll be ready for spring. Tomorrow I'm off to get 3.73 gears, engine/tranny mounts installed. :t15197:

[SlowPoke McGee]

Look at the head-on photo of my car. At the bottom of my overflow tank, on the left, you'll see a dab of some black silicone. Immediately below that, you can see the J-nut that the 11mm bolt threads into. THAT bolt needs to be cut off by about 1/2", or replaced with one that is shorter.

Where's the head-on photo of your car?

[GTS Dean]

Where's the head-on photo of your car?

Page 2

[SlowPoke McGee]

Damn that's some good info. Thanks for this, Dean! Btw, is that silicone dab sealing up the hole? I used JB plastic weld to seal mine up. It's held ever since *knock on wood*

[MuRCieLaGo]

So I've just seen the car yesterday! It is pretty decent.

The hood gap with the headlights/bumper is there, but only on the driver's side. Those gaps are even on Wikipedia! I see them everywhere. Didn't take a picture, gap isn't huge like some I've seen on pictures (couldn't fit my smaller finger between hood and bumper).

1. I'm still wondering if the ROE racing head gaskets are good stuff. Can't find any review.
2. What happens if the car is left outside with the soft top and it rains...?
3. I was so surprised to see how you cannot work on that engine if there's anything wrong, without removing the hood! Even a basic maintenance like changing a belt requires to remove the hood. Am I missing something?
4. And that hood... If you start the engine without someone holding it, it might fall back. Really?
5. One of the side exhausts plastic cover is slightly damaged. I hope it is not too expensive to fix.
6. There's a very constant high pitch sound when the car is idling (haven't had the chance to rev it while it was in neutral, to see if it goes away). We definitely can't hear it in the car, however it's very present when the hood is open and at idle. I hope you know what I mean. Not sure if it is normal.
7. Seller didn't want to put it on a lift. But I'm pretty confident that everything is beautiful underneath (I still managed to take a look).
8. Canadian owners: there were no DRL (Daytime Running Lights). It's a Canadian car. Does your Viper have DRL? If you turn the key ON, some lights are permanently supposed to be ON.

Thanks for all your help guys!

[BrianACR]

My car has no DRL. It didn't have the change done when it was imported. I believe if it is over 15 years old then you don't need to lights.
Not sure on the GenI's but on my Gen II I can leave the hood open with engine running no problem. SlowPoke would know about this.
As to removing the hood to do anything, the GenII hoods do open further so I'm of no help here. sorry.
I believe the earlier cars were built with some waterproofing in the interior in case you got caught out in the rain.

[MuRCieLaGo]

My car has no DRL. It didn't have the change done when it was imported. I believe if it is over 15 years old then you don't need to lights.
Not sure on the GenI's but on my Gen II I can leave the hood open with engine running no problem. SlowPoke would know about this.
As to removing the hood to do anything, the GenII hoods do open further so I'm of no help here. sorry.
I believe the earlier cars were built with some waterproofing in the interior in case you got caught out in the rain.

For sure in Quebec we need the DRLs, especially if it's under 25 years old. I had to buy a DRL module for my imported ZR-1 to pass safety check.

Unless the Viper didn't come with DRLs when it was brand new. But highly doubt that's the case. And yes I think I've seen some weatherstrips on the sides of the soft top (but I'm not sure).

[GTS Dean]

So I've just seen the car yesterday! It is pretty decent.

The hood gap with the headlights/bumper is there, but only on the driver's side. Those gaps are even on Wikipedia! I see them everywhere. Didn't take a picture, gap isn't huge like some I've seen on pictures (couldn't fit my smaller finger between hood and bumper).

1. I'm still wondering if the ROE racing head gaskets are good stuff. Can't find any review. There are gaskets available. Keep looking.
2. What happens if the car is left outside with the soft top and it rains...? The car gets a little water in it. keep a towel under the seat, or in the trunk.
3. I was so surprised to see how you cannot work on that engine if there's anything wrong, without removing the hood! Even a basic maintenance like changing a belt requires to remove the hood. Am I missing something? Open the hood.
4. And that hood... If you start the engine without someone holding it, it might fall back. Really? weak hood springs. replace them.
5. One of the side exhausts plastic cover is slightly damaged. I hope it is not too expensive to fix. it will cost money to fix.
6. There's a very constant high pitch sound when the car is idling (haven't had the chance to rev it while it was in neutral, to see if it goes away). We definitely can't hear it in the car, however it's very present when the hood is open and at idle. I hope you know what I mean. Not sure if it is normal. Normal. Idle Air Control valve.
7. Seller didn't want to put it on a lift. But I'm pretty confident that everything is beautiful underneath (I still managed to take a look). you'd better get it on a lift and look at it REALLY close. everything is supposed to be straight and square, with no kinks and lots of symmetry - even if it's dirty.
8. Canadian owners: there were no DRL (Daytime Running Lights). It's a Canadian car. Does your Viper have DRL? If you turn the key ON, some lights are permanently supposed to be ON. you're on your own there.

Thanks for all your help guys!

...

[MuRCieLaGo]

Thanks for your detailed answers GTS Dean, I appreciate it.

However...

1. ROE Racing head gaskets are already installed. That's why I'm wondering if it is good stuff.
2. Even if the car is in an outside parking, stopped, and it's raining?
3. Oh I opened it, with the seller. I could barely reach a belt with both hands. I hope I did something wrong there.
4. Alright!
5. Hmmmm, I thought it would be fairly easy to find an used plastic cover and replace the old one.
6. Alright!
7. People who buy cars on eBay rarely get pictures of underneath. The car is in pretty damn clean condition to be honest with you. I'll try to lower the price considering I couldn't jack the car up.
8. Still asking the question to Canadian owners!

[Steve-Indy]

1. Call Sean Roe and inquire. Chuck Tator may also be able to answer.

2. A little rain is no big deal. Some aftermarket tops and/or windows help. Both Gen I and II cars can get water into cockpit via retrograde flow through HVAC port on right side of hood if rain is torrential.

3. I have personally changed belt on Gen I and II Vipers by my self by leaning under hood...using a 15 mm socket on the Tensioner pulley with a LONG handle ratchet. At home, I use a yard stick to help position belt on A/C compressor since I stand on passenger side to do this job.

7. You need to have car on a walk-under lift...taking your time for a complete evaluation...once you know where to look.

8. While this link appears to be for Gen II, there are Gen I references.
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/threads/584294-Need-Daytime-Running-Lights-module

[MuRCieLaGo]

1. Call Sean Roe and inquire. Chuck Tator may also be able to answer.

2. A little rain is no big deal. Some aftermarket tops and/or windows help. Both Gen I and II cars can get water into cockpit via retrograde flow through HVAC port on right side of hood if rain is torrential.

3. I have personally changed belt on Gen I and II Vipers by my self by leaning under hood...using a 15 mm socket on the Tensioner pulley with a LONG handle ratchet. At home, I use a yard stick to help position belt on A/C compressor since I stand on passenger side to do this job.

7. You need to have car on a walk-under lift...taking your time for a complete evaluation...once you know where to look.

8. While this link appears to be for Gen II, there are Gen I references.
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/threads/584294-Need-Daytime-Running-Lights-module

Thanks a lot Steve I appreciate all your help!