Best points to position floor jack and jack stands?

[ViperSmith]

Want to install my corsa tomorrow - what are the optimal positions to 1) jack the car and 2) position jack stands?

I know there are the notched regions on the frame, but is there anywhere else that is optimal?

[C.J]

Gen III or IV?

[ViperSmith]

Gen III or IV?

V of course :p

[C.J]

Can't help you with a Gen V. Does the owner's manual cover lift points?

[ViperSmith]

Can't help you with a Gen V. Does the owner's manual cover lift points?

Sadly, nothing in the owners manual...

[Voice of Reason]

I *think* I saw the common L/V shaped angle iron pieces where we are to jack from when I looked months ago. Don't quote me on that though.

[Jack B]

You have a good point, personally I would use a hydraulic jack near the v-angles. and place the jack stands under the angles. Use a short piece of 2X4 on the jack and under the fame to distribute the forces

[MR Viper]

Want to install my corsa tomorrow - what are the optimal positions to 1) jack the car and 2) position jack stands?

I know there are the notched regions on the frame, but is there anywhere else that is optimal?

Harold

Lift the car at the triangular points you mention if possible. You can lift it elsewhere if you need to, but you do need to be careful when doing so. If you remove the sill first, you should be able to put the car on the stands at these correct locations for the new exhaus installation.

Good luck with the installation. Put some before and after video up on youtube after so we can see what you think! SInce there are new noises in your house these days, the new exhaust may not seem as loud as you think! ;)

Graham

[Nine Ball]

I use the 4 triangular lift points under the sill. The side sill is still removable if you use those points. They are in the exact same place for Gen 3-5, btw. Fronts are immediately behind the tires, rears are just before the side pipe exits.

[Jack B]

The problem is that you must have an alternate point if you are setting the car on jack stands, you need a lift point adjacent to where the stand will be placed. If you want to remove the back belly plate you can lift from the rear frame and set both rear jack stands I will take a look later today and take a couple of pics.


I use the 4 triangular lift points under the sill. The side sill is still removable if you use those points. They are in the exact same place for Gen 3-5, btw. Fronts are immediately behind the tires, rears are just before the side pipe exits.

[ViperSmith]

The issue I found was there are really no good spots to jack / secure the car other than the triangle points given. All other parts of the frame are covered in aluminum or plastic to protect the under carriage. There is literally nowhere to put a jack stand or stand other than those four places. There is just no exposed frame at all on the car.

[St.Char]

This may sound a little crazy, but after I lifted my Gen 3 and had it safely sitting on all four jack points, I wanted to place jack stands further underneath the car. I've been doing a lot work around the wheels and wanted to free up space by moving the jacks from close proximity around them. The two front jack stands were easy to place, because the frame rails were visible and closer to the center of the car, I placed a shop towel on each jack (protect the paint) and placed them under the rails in the front. The rear was a bit more challenging. Since most of the undercarriage is covered with a "belly pan" and unlike the front, it covers the rear frame rails. Now for the crazy part. I had two choices, Remove the belly pan or place the jack stands under the belly pan where the frame rails run, however I'm sure that this would bend or put impressions in the pan. Neither choice was an option for me. So after further inspection, I found two small heat shields, or what look like heat shields between the wheels almost in the center of the car. These are stainless steel and are about 6"x4" and are held on by 2 small bolts. If you remove them, you will see that the frame rail runs just above them and across the car. This is where I place the two rear jacks and seems to work well without the damage or removing the belly pan.

Of course this is on a a Gen 3 and may be different on a Gen V.

[Jack B]

I took a look at the frame and took some pics. The jack points are not a lot different than my G2.

The rear is easy, that is Picture #3, you can use a floor jack and my guess is you could change both wheels with one lift. The factory actually has a yellow line at the rear jack point, probably for a different reason. There is no need to remove the rear belly pan, if you lift at the yellow mark you are not going to hurt anything. When using a floor jack always try to use a rubber pad at the jack point.

In the front, set the floor jack on the triangular factory jack point and lift high enough to set the jack stands on one of the two red circles in Picture #1. It would be best to have a jack stand with a wide perch and a rubber pad. If the jack stand does not have a rubber pad, you can always buy 1/4" thick hard rubber stock to insert between the frame and the jack stand.

The method is almost identical to the G2 and the lower frame rail set-up looks like the G2 at the jack points. On the other hand there are obvious differences in the frame and the welds are far more consistent on the G5.

One mistake, Picture #1 indicates drivers side, that is actually the passenger side and the view is looking to the outside of the car, the exhaust pipe is the turnout.

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