Gearshift Shaft is Loose Suggestions

[Gary Javo]

The shift knob on my ACR is loose. I tried tightening it, but it doesn't really tighten like a normal bolt. It hits a positive stop but doesn't have any tension on it to keep it tight. It will just freely turn counter clockwise. I pulled the surround panel up to take a closer look and I found that the knob is tightened to the shaft. What I am experiencing is the shaft is turning freely in the trans connection (or whatever it's called). Is anyone else experiencing this, and is there an easy way to solve the issue so I can avoid leaving my ACR at the dealer?

[Dfunk]

There is a jam nut under the shifter knob shaft. Is it tight? The knob/shaft assembly is threaded onto the shifter and held in place with a jam nut.

[Gary Javo]

Yes. That is tight. The shaft is what is turning freely, not the knob. I can't easily see where it enters the trans. There is a boot around it. It's loose somewhere under there.

[ek1]

The shift knob on my ACR is loose. I tried tightening it, but it doesn't really tighten like a normal bolt. It hits a positive stop but doesn't have any tension on it to keep it tight. It will just freely turn counter clockwise. I pulled the surround panel up to take a closer look and I found that the knob is tightened to the shaft. What I am experiencing is the shaft is turning freely in the trans connection (or whatever it's called). Is anyone else experiencing this, and is there an easy way to solve the issue so I can avoid leaving my ACR at the dealer?

I have the same problem. When I was over at Chuck Tator's a few months ago, they installed an additional nut on the shaft, which kept it in place for a while, but now the shaft shook itself loose again. I decided to ignore it for now until I have to go to a dealer for something else. The mechanic at Chuck's told me that the center tunnel panel may need to be removed for a permanent fix.

[Gary Javo]

Yeah, I'm afraid that it's going to be a pita to fix and I really don't want someone digging in for such a small issue. I think I'll just ignore it for now.

[Snorman]

Gary...should see you at Daytona in April.
We will be at Sebring the first week of February, then Road Atlanta the end of February, back to Sebring (David Murry) in March. I'm also thinking of going to VIR in June.
Let me know if there are any good RRR events coming up.
S.

[Jack B]

You have to remove the shifter surround, there are four clips, the removal is easy. There is a jam nut under the rubber boot, push the boot down and you will see the jam nut. You will need two wrenches to tighten the shift knob.

There is also the possibility that the stud going into the trans is loose. Stretch the boot all the way up and use a 3/4" crows foot wrench on a 6" extension to tighten the bottom part of the shaft. It takes a little practice, you have to get the crows foot inside the boot and aimed in the right direction.

[Louis]

On my car the jam nut is what gets loose. After removing the surround I did as Jack B said and pushed down the boot to expose the jam nut. I them remove the whole shifter including the jam nut. I made sure the jam nut was tight on the shifter then put blue loctite on the jam nut threads that screw into the shifter linkage (not sure what to call it). Last, I put a wrench on the jam nut and tightened the whole jam nut/shifter to the linkage. I'm sure the blue loctite should keep that jam nut from getting loose again.

Hope that description made sense? Should have taken pictures.

Louis

[Louis]

Going to reply to myself here. After reading Jack B's post again he said, "There is also the possibility that the stud going into the trans is loose". This stud is what I'm referring to when I say jam nut. I took that stud out and made sure it was tight with the shifter. Then I put blue loctite on the stud threads and snugged it down on the linkage. Sorry for the confusion ... I confused myself.

Louis
2013 SRT

[Gary Javo]

Louis, thx for the reply. So are you saying that you can unscrew the stud from the trans essentially leaving a shift knob screwed to a shift stud in your hand? I'm just afraid to unscrew that combined assembly out of the trans and have the possibility of something not going back together properly down in there.

[AZTVR]

Louis, thx for the reply. So are you saying that you can unscrew the stud from the trans essentially leaving a shift knob screwed to a shift stud in your hand? I'm just afraid to unscrew that combined assembly out of the trans and have the possibility of something not going back together properly down in there.

I think that what you need is a picture of the Gen V shifter so that you know what you would be trying to tighten or potentially loosen. I have only dealt with the Gen II which you wouldn't have an issue with respect to your concerns. I looked at the parts diagram for a Gen V (http://www.moparpartswebstore.com/a/Dodge__/_50015_6581422/Gear-Shift-Boot--Knob-and-Bezel/i2305757.html)and the shifter appears to be a similar design as the previous Gens but maybe a different height and or offset.
This post implies it is a photo of a Gen V shifter (although I am surprised to see it having a cast TREMEC logo in the base - previous gen was a stamped steel base). http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/5016-GenV-Shifter-Observation?p=73883&viewfull=1#post73883
You can see that you would be unscrewing or tightening into the shifter lever arm, not into the transmission.

[Gary Javo]

That was perfect. Thanks! I just unscrewed it from under the rubber boot. Applied threadlock and retightened. Hopefully this will have it. Thanks again.

[theviper]

Thank you for the advice!

[kuishe]

Kinda related to this topic. Not too sure but do I turn the hex nut counter clockwise as shown in the pic if I am looking to take off the knob?

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[Jack B]

Thank you for the advice!

Hold the hex nut and turn the shaft flat cc.

[serpent]

Don't mean to bump the thread, but I hope those who run into this issue find this as a solution.

My stock shifter was a pain in the ass to remove, once I got the jam nut to unhinge i began rotating the entire assembly loose. That made the entire gearshift shaft loose. I did not know I was loosening that instead of the shifter knob itself.

There's no fricken instructions anywhere and this is my first viper. But I have installed an MGW in my mustang and a GMM rip shift in my GTO.

Anyways once i got the barrel short throw installed, the entire shift shaft was still loose! DUH, i loosened it when i tried removing the shifter. So i twisted the gear shaft back in to place and now it is solid as a rock, or should i say metal.

Adjusted the jam nut to align with the H-pattern etched on the top of the knob and tightened the set screw. Fricken solid and precise piece!

[Arizona Vipers]

You have to remove the shifter surround, there are four clips, the removal is easy. There is a jam nut under the rubber boot, push the boot down and you will see the jam nut. You will need two wrenches to tighten the shift knob.

There is also the possibility that the stud going into the trans is loose. Stretch the boot all the way up and use a 3/4" crows foot wrench on a 6" extension to tighten the bottom part of the shaft. It takes a little practice, you have to get the crows foot inside the boot and aimed in the right direction.

Thanks dude, mine is doing it too on my '13. Will try this first!

[ek1]

Don't mean to bump the thread, but I hope those who run into this issue find this as a solution.

My stock shifter was a pain in the ass to remove, once I got the jam nut to unhinge i began rotating the entire assembly loose. That made the entire gearshift shaft loose. I did not know I was loosening that instead of the shifter knob itself.

There's no fricken instructions anywhere and this is my first viper. But I have installed an MGW in my mustang and a GMM rip shift in my GTO.

Anyways once i got the barrel short throw installed, the entire shift shaft was still loose! DUH, i loosened it when i tried removing the shifter. So i twisted the gear shaft back in to place and now it is solid as a rock, or should i say metal.

Adjusted the jam nut to align with the H-pattern etched on the top of the knob and tightened the set screw. Fricken solid and precise piece!

So wait.....are you saying it's possible to replace the shifter without removing the center console?

[Jack B]

That has always been possible.


So wait.....are you saying it's possible to replace the shifter without removing the center console?

[ek1]

You have to remove the shifter surround, there are four clips, the removal is easy. There is a jam nut under the rubber boot, push the boot down and you will see the jam nut. You will need two wrenches to tighten the shift knob.

There is also the possibility that the stud going into the trans is loose. Stretch the boot all the way up and use a 3/4" crows foot wrench on a 6" extension to tighten the bottom part of the shaft. It takes a little practice, you have to get the crows foot inside the boot and aimed in the right direction.

Jack,


I installed a new shifter today and realized that the stud is loose since the entire assembly still spins. You are saying "you have to get the crows foot inside the boot and aimed in the right direction". Assuming the crow's foot looks something like this https://www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-professional-use-3-4-in-wrench-crowfoot, how on earth do you get it into the narrow opening of the boot? I mean, it looks like the crows foot is about 1" wide, how do you get it through the boot opening that's barely 1/2" wide?

[TT32VGT]

Hi guys, can you plz watch my video? It doesn’t seem like it’s the jam nut that’s loose on my 16 viper.. not sure exactly what the jam nut is, is it the nut that’s below the leather shifter boot? If so that’s not loose.. as you can see I can actually pull the shifter up out of the Trans..
seems like from what y’all are saying, it’s the stud going into the trans? So I’ll need to get a 3/4” crows foot wratchet and 6” extension to tighten it? Is that right? Any help?

https://youtu.be/6G_S6M69rNs

[Jack B]

Hi guys, can you plz watch my video? It doesn’t seem like it’s the jam nut that’s loose on my 16 viper.. not sure exactly what the jam nut is, is it the nut that’s below the leather shifter boot? If so that’s not loose.. as you can see I can actually pull the shifter up out of the Trans..
seems like from what y’all are saying, it’s the stud going into the trans? So I’ll need to get a 3/4” crows foot wratchet and 6” extension to tighten it? Is that right? Any help?

https://youtu.be/6G_S6M69rNs

The shaft threads into an arm on top of the trans, that is where the crows-foot would be used to tighten the shaft, however, in your case it looks like the four bolts holding the shifter plate have loosened up. On the G5, I do not believe you can tighten all four bolts from the top. I think you have to lower the trans by removing the rear cross-member to get clearance.

[TT32VGT]

Thanks for the reply. Damn. You serious, lower the trans? I’m starting to really regret buying this car.. 3k miles and I have to deal with this and windows falling.

[TT32VGT]

Anyone else have any input? Thx

[AZTVR]

The shaft threads into an arm on top of the trans, that is where the crows-foot would be used to tighten the shaft, however, in your case it looks like the four bolts holding the shifter plate have loosened up. On the G5, I do not believe you can tighten all four bolts from the top. I think you have to lower the trans by removing the rear cross-member to get clearance.


Thanks for the reply. Damn. You serious, lower the trans?

Here is a photo of the shifter mechanism that the vertical shaft screws into. It seems like this would be a warranty repair for an assembly defect (not tightening the mounting bolts after installation, if that is the cause.)
https://driveviper.com/forums/threads/5016-GenV-Shifter-Observation?p=73883&viewfull=1#post73883 (https://driveviper.com/forums/threads/5016-GenV-Shifter-Observation?p=73883&viewfull=1#post73883)

[TT32VGT]

The shaft threads into an arm on top of the trans, that is where the crows-foot would be used to tighten the shaft, however, in your case it looks like the four bolts holding the shifter plate have loosened up. On the G5, I do not believe you can tighten all four bolts from the top. I think you have to lower the trans by removing the rear cross-member to get clearance.
I don't trust a dealer wouldn't scratch my car.. I will probably sell it after fixing..

Anyone have any pointers for me? Ill probably try to do repair this weekend!

[Jack B]

Thanks for the reply. Damn. You serious, lower the trans? I’m starting to really regret buying this car.. 3k miles and I have to deal with this and windows falling.

You are just lowering the rear on the trans, not removing it. There are 4 bolts on the xmember and 2 on the trans. The belly pan also has to be removed first. Open the hood and remove the air box because the front of the engine will come up. I will look at mine tomorrow to see if there is a easier method.

[AZTVR]

I don't trust a dealer wouldn't scratch my car.. I will probably sell it after fixing..

Anyone have any pointers for me? Ill probably try to do repair this weekend! After taking the belly pan off, the first thing that I would do is see if the bolts are actually loose (or missing). If they are tight, then you are facing some other weird issue !

38476

[Jack B]

I had another insight, the G5 6060 has a thicker top plate than previous vipers, therefore , if the top plate bolts from a G4 were used they would not have enough thread depth to maintain the proper torque. That would be an easy mixup.