Preventative maintenance for track-driven Vipers

[VENOM V]

Hi all,

I'm approaching 6,000 miles, and have driven on 4 tracks so a nice chunk of those miles were driven hard. Not sure what I need to service, looking for advice. Here's what I'm thinking:

Oil change - probably going back to 0W-40 full synthetic since the weather is colder now (already changed it to 15W-50 at 1,500 miles, in the heat of summer where I tracked at Thunderhill in 107 degree heat)

Transmission fluid change

Differential fluid change

Anything I'm missing?

I already flush the brake/clutch fluid at least every 6 months with Dot 4 fluid (Motul 600), and time it when I have a brake job done.

I'm thinking of using the SRT recommended factory fluids. I have a lifetime extended warranty so I'll have the dealer do this service.

Thanks guys :dude3:

[mjorgensen]

I think the trans is fine, do the diff for sure by now, I would check it at least every 3-4 track days. Brakes and clutch should be flushed after each track weekend IMO.

[Malu59RT]

Lifetime extended warranty is awesome, but must cost $10,000, LOL!!

[VENOM V]

Lifetime extended warranty is awesome, but must cost $10,000, LOL!!

My dealer helped me out since the car was delayed for many months. I didn't pay anywhere near that, and believe me am grateful. And it's a genuine Chrysler warranty, unlimited mile bumper to bumper with a $100 deductible. Sweet deal :dude3:

[XSnake]

I would not switch back to 0-40. Just let the car properly warm up before you get out there and go 100%.

As Mark said the trans is probably fine but I'd def. do the clutch. Diff is probably ok too, can't hurt anything by swapping it though.

[FLATOUT]

Anyone have a good detailed right up for flushing the clutch fluid? I want to completely flush it with fresh Motul. Tired of just replacing the fluid in the resevoir and then allowing it to self bleed.

[ViperGeorge]

I would agree with what Mark said above. I would also switch to braided steel brake lines if you haven't already. Check rotors for cracks and excessive wear; some pads are less friendly to rotors than others. Grease A arms too.

[FrgMstr]

Anyone have a good detailed right up for flushing the clutch fluid? I want to completely flush it with fresh Motul. Tired of just replacing the fluid in the resevoir and then allowing it to self bleed.

I did this a couple of weeks ago and is super simple if you have two people. I boiled the clutch fluid during the Dustball Rally and the "rez flush" is great for getting it back to decent working order while in a bind, but I found out when I was doing a proper flush.....that a proper flush needs to be done to actually get all the old fluid out.

Very simple process. I think the only wrench size you will need is a 11mm, closed end worked better for me. You will need something to catch the old fluid. I actually used nipple with a 90 degree bend with a clear hose on it. You can probably get a small cup up there to catch it, but it will likely block your view of what is going on.

Get the car up in the air.

Remove the reservoir cap, remove all fluid in the rez. No sense in flushing old fluid through. Fill rez with new fluid.

Get under the car where you can access the bleeder fitting, up the side of the transmission casing on the drivers side. Get your wrench on it.

Have your buddy hold the clutch pedal down to the floor and have him hold it there.

Break the bleeder valve loose, until fluid stops coming out.

Pump the clutch pedal back up till if feels "right" and repeat the process.

Make SURE you do not let the reservoir go dry and suck air into the master/slave. Have your buddy up top check this every couple of cycles of flushing.

I think I had to do this process about 6 or 7 times before I was certain all the new clean fluid was in the system.

Hope this helps. Once you do it, you will go, "Well that was simple."

[ViperGeorge]

I did this a couple of weeks ago and is super simple if you have two people. I boiled the clutch fluid during the Dustball Rally and the "rez flush" is great for getting it back to decent working order while in a bind, but I found out when I was doing a proper flush.....that a proper flush needs to be done to actually get all the old fluid out.

Very simple process. I think the only wrench size you will need is a 11mm, closed end worked better for me. You will need something to catch the old fluid. I actually used nipple with a 90 degree bend with a clear hose on it. You can probably get a small cup up there to catch it, but it will likely block your view of what is going on.

Get the car up in the air.

Remove the reservoir cap, remove all fluid in the rez. No sense in flushing old fluid through. Fill rez with new fluid.

Get under the car where you can access the bleeder fitting, up the side of the transmission casing on the drivers side. Get your wrench on it.

Have your buddy hold the clutch pedal down to the floor and have him hold it there.

Break the bleeder valve loose, until fluid stops coming out.

Pump the clutch pedal back up till if feels "right" and repeat the process.

Make SURE you do not let the reservoir go dry and suck air into the master/slave. Have your buddy up top check this every couple of cycles of flushing.

I think I had to do this process about 6 or 7 times before I was certain all the new clean fluid was in the system.

Hope this helps. Once you do it, you will go, "Well that was simple."

Was that for a Gen 3/4 or a Gen 5? I think the Gen 5 uses a combo brake/clutch reservoir.

[VENOM V]

Thanks guys, all good advice!

If anyone else has thoughts please post up.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Good Job Frag! [His G4 SSG is in his Avatar......] next time you wont wait til DURING the rallye !

About the only things NOT in the good-advices above would be to ensure your air filters, radiator and condenser and cooler fins are clean. Track marbles, Leaves, seeds, ciggie butts, candy wrappers, feathers, and even entire small BIRDS have been found in there !!

[FrgMstr]

Was that for a Gen 3/4 or a Gen 5? I think the Gen 5 uses a combo brake/clutch reservoir.

Dunno on Gen V, as I have never been under one, but this information should be solid for Gen III and IV.

[VENOM V]

Good Job Frag! [His G4 SSG is in his Avatar......] next time you wont wait til DURING the rallye !

About the only things NOT in the good-advices above would be to ensure your air filters, radiator and condenser and cooler fins are clean. Track marbles, Leaves, seeds, ciggie butts, candy wrappers, feathers, and even entire small BIRDS have been found in there !!

LOL, yes an air filter is on my list as I made a couple of trips through the infield and about a gallon of dust went everywhere.

I'll check for small birds too :p

[Leslie]

I think the trans is fine, do the diff for sure by now, I would check it at least every 3-4 track days. Brakes and clutch should be flushed after each track weekend IMO.

what he said! My mechanic bleeds my brakes before every event-Motul 660. He also checks suspension, brake pad wear, etc. I keep a log of everything we change out.

[Boxer12]

I would tighten the axle bearing nuts, grease all the ball joints. I imagine you can put greasable sway bar bushings on the car and keep them greased. Check the torque on the main drive belt pully and all the shock mounts. Check the power steering reservoir cap for tightness (consider binding it). Check the torque on the trans and rear diff drain plugs. Check your battery mount and connectors. Get a battery tender if your weather is cold enough you might let the car sit for a month.

[Newport Viper]

My dealer helped me out since the car was delayed for many months. I didn't pay anywhere near that, and believe me am grateful. And it's a genuine Chrysler warranty, unlimited mile bumper to bumper with a $100 deductible. Sweet deal :dude3:

It really is a sweet deal. You are a SMART man! Keep track of it over time for us. Thx

[mjorgensen]

You can reduce the chance for aeration of the fluid when flushing brakes or the clutch by using a vacuum bleeder instead of the old pump and hold method. When I have time I will gravity bleed my brakes and lightly tap on the calipers while doing it to insure there are no air pockets but that is a personal preference.

[Mad Max]

I agree with Mark. Gravity bleed if time allows, if not then vacuum.

[Steve M]

Anyone have a good detailed right up for flushing the clutch fluid? I want to completely flush it with fresh Motul. Tired of just replacing the fluid in the resevoir and then allowing it to self bleed.

You can do it with a pressure bleeder too (I used a Motive unit)...it's going to be messy though, no real way around it. The fluid doesn't just come out of the end of the bleeder...it also ends up seeping out from around the threads of the bleeder screw inside the bell housing, and exits the bottom of the bellhousing through the slot at the 6 o'clock position. A drip tray will catch it all, but still...wasn't one of my favorite jobs. I'll eventually rig up a remote bleeder and tie it up to the side of the transmission.

Now for the Gen 5 guys, from what I understand, you are SOL for clutch fluid bleeding.

[Steve M]

Oh, and here's the thread about the clutch fluid issue:

http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/1291-Changing-fluids-and-clutch-system-gripe

[Bill Pemberton]

Good check list , Jon, as many of you have found the infield at Motorsports Park Hastings during the Viper Rendezvous and realized the required clean up after a run through the flowering
alfalfa. Do not worry, though, as this year I will likely make up a loverly sticker for folks to understand your little foray into the grassy confines of the track . You will be given a special decal
with your Team letters , F.A.R.T. ( Flowering Alfalfa Racing Team ). Please call me if some of you would like to reserve your decal in advance.

Jon is spot on as folks often forget to check the air filter, radiator ,etc. and track prep can often be the difference between a win , good day, or sitting in benches watching everyone else
have fun!

[Scott Mannny]

Good check list , Jon, as many of you have found the infield at Motorsports Park Hastings during the Viper Rendezvous and realized the required clean up after a run through the flowering
alfalfa. Do not worry, though, as this year I will likely make up a loverly sticker for folks to understand your little foray into the grassy confines of the track . You will be given a special decal
with your Team letters , F.A.R.T. ( Flowering Alfalfa Racing Team ). Please call me if some of you would like to reserve your decal in advance.

Jon is spot on as folks often forget to check the air filter, radiator ,etc. and track prep can often be the difference between a win , good day, or sitting in benches watching everyone else
have fun!

What a Great team name!!!! and will you have your special decal on???

I may have to run off track this year just to be on the Team.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Funny that you mention the F.A.R.T. award. It was first earned by none-other than BOB WOODHOUSE many years ago!

Skip Thomas created the "woodchuck" award sticker for 'going agricultural' at Viper Days events: Earn 3 and OUT for the day. Along comes Bob W at the first ever HPDE at Spring Mountain Pahrumph NV. The track did not even have FIA curbs it was so new! Bob goes aggie on top of a hill, catches AIR for about 5-6 car lengths and pancakes his car in a dustbowl of tarantulas and snakes. And endangered tortoises...REALLY! A helicopter photog captured the dust-cloud squall, published in Viper Quarterly.

The tow-truck had a LOT of difficulty even extracting him......we were shut down for almost 45 minutes. Giving Bob a simple Woodchuck Award was not a worthy recognition. I was the tech inspector that day, responsible for the tech and wood-chuck stickers. We created the inaugural Farthest Aerial Region Traveled {FART} award that afternoon, and awarded it at dinner. Im sure Bob will never forget that ride or award....especially now, that it is an OLD F.A.R.T. award

[FLATOUT]

LMFAO :D That's a great story!



Funny that you mention the F.A.R.T. award. It was first earned by none-other than BOB WOODHOUSE many years ago!

Skip Thomas created the "woodchuck" award sticker for 'going agricultural' at Viper Days events: Earn 3 and OUT for the day. Along comes Bob W at the first ever HPDE at Spring Mountain Pahrumph NV. The track did not even have FIA curbs it was so new! Bob goes aggie on top of a hill, catches AIR for about 5-6 car lengths and pancakes his car in a dustbowl of tarantulas and snakes. And endangered tortoises...REALLY! A helicopter photog captured the dust-cloud squall, published in Viper Quarterly.

The tow-truck had a LOT of difficulty even extracting him......we were shut down for almost 45 minutes. Giving Bob a simple Woodchuck Award was not a worthy recognition. I was the tech inspector that day, responsible for the tech and wood-chuck stickers. We created the inaugural Farthest Aerial Region Traveled {FART} award that afternoon, and awarded it at dinner. Im sure Bob will never forget that ride or award....especially now, that it is an OLD F.A.R.T. award

[Bill Pemberton]

Well Scott I will have the decal on the car and if you want I will try to sing it's praises. Rumor is Woody is coming again to the Viper Rendezvous, so sounds like from Jon's story we will have to
make sure we get an Old sticker for him to go with the new decal --- seem to remember him in the alfalfa last year, so why even bother to wait for this years excursion, well just honor him with
the decal upon his arrival.