ESC Malfunction Light is connected to the electroic damping system?

[TheMadMachinist]

2013 GTS, 25,000 miles, Lower caps only mod. I hit a bump in the road yesterday about the size of a speed bump I was traveling about 20 mph. Then the Electronic Stability Control Activation/Malfunction Indicator Light is went on and is still on and the Electric Controlled Damping went into Race mode. The ESC button on the steering wheel as well as the buttons for the Street/Race modes for the damping are not responding. Are they connected to each other? Anyone had a similar issue? Is there something I should look for that maybe got unhooked?

Took the car down to a couple of dealers today. The one I wanted Normandin is booked up until the 19th and my local dealer can get me in next Tuesday but was wondering if I mite be able to look for something until then. Any ideas?

Thanks

[Steve-Indy]

It has been a couple of years, but your story sounds similar to that of a good friend with a 2013 GTS...at about 1200 miles.

Turned out to be a shock that had to be replaced.
Once wiTECH reads codes and possibly identifies a problem, they may need to check connections at module in rear under hatch, then check wires for contiguity/resistance to the shock(s). On my friends car, they first swapped out module which changed nothing, then they changed offending shock and all was well.

All of this had to go through Tech/Dealer Connect...one step at a time. It took a couple of weeks.

[Fatboy 18]

Have you taken the wheel that went down the hole off yet and physically looked at the suspension to see if you have a loose/ cut wire or bad connector?

If you don't want to tackle that yourself Im sure a Tire garage will pull the wheel and check for you, or better still, put the car on the ramp for a quick looksee :)

If all looks sound, I would then go the dealer route.

[catwood]

I lost the accelerometer in mine and had the same symptoms. It's a little box under the center console. Dealer was able to plug in and state the problem in a couple of minutes. Took a week to get the part.

[BDZ1984]

Too bad you have the lowering caps on your car. The suspension warranty is now void ;)

[swexlin]

Too bad you have the lowering caps on your car. The suspension warranty is now void ;)

Unfortunately, no joke, this is probably true. They may not fix it under warranty since it has been altered.

OP, this would appear to be an electronics issue, time for the dealer.

[Jet Slicker]

So, bringing this thread back from the dead because it is one of the problems I am having. Randomly when turning, especially somewhat quick turns, the car cuts throttle and my ESC malfunction light comes on, along with the blinking red security light. Twice when this happened, I noticed my voltage dropped down to 12 volts and then started to charge back up. Now I DO have a blown driver side rear shock, and I'm waiting for my MAX care warranty to kick in since I have to wait 30 days before using it. That is probably why my ESC malfunction light is coming on.
However, I have 2 other problems that I'm wondering if they are related.

-Yesterday when I was driving down the highway, I noticed my battery light turned on and my voltage was at 11.9. It stayed like that for around 20 minutes of driving, until I hit a decent bump and it started charging again... I don't see how this could be related to the ESC issue, but I don't know.

-Also driving yesterday, when I hit the bump that got the car charging again, the car had some serious engine braking for a split second and "Service electronic throttle control" popped up and went away so fast I could hardly read it. So I pulled off the highway to check connections about 45 mins later. When I slowed to a stop and started going again, the car bogged very badly and the "Service electronic throttle control" message came and stayed up for like 3 second. This happened twice and then the car was back to normal. The last time was an hour later and I hit a decent bump (Michigan roads lol) and the throttle cut for a split second, along with the service message again.

I believe my first issue is related to the blown shock. The second issue is probably not related though, and I know the Gen V's have charging problems. The third issue could possibly related to the blown shock and ESC? That would explain why hitting a bunp and unsettling the car would trigger something. But it also could be a loose connection..

Any ideas??

[Voice of Reason]

The blown shock will not affect any warning lights or electrical systems in the car. Two years ago I did a road course with a blown shock and nothing ever lit up in the car. It sounds like you have an electrical gremlin running around your car, once the warranty kicks in I'd get everything looked at together.

[Jet Slicker]

The blown shock will not affect any warning lights or electrical systems in the car. Two years ago I did a road course with a blown shock and nothing ever lit up in the car. It sounds like you have an electrical gremlin running around your car, once the warranty kicks in I'd get everything looked at together.

Damn, an electrical gremlin is the worst... And shit.. Warranty is still 3 weeks away and I have LOTS of plans in the mean time. Wondering if there is a ground loose somewhere.

[swexlin]

Out of curiousity, why do you have to wait 30 days for the Max Care to kick in?

[Jet Slicker]

Out of curiousity, why do you have to wait 30 days for the Max Care to kick in?

I was told by Clay Robbins that since my bumper to bumper warranty is expired, I have to wait 30 days before making a claim with the new max care warranty or it will be denied. Probably so somebody doesn't rack up a ton of problems and just buy warranty to fix them or something. But this happened AFTER I bought the warranty and I really need the car fixed. This is prime summer time!!!

[AZTVR]

Out of curiousity, why do you have to wait 30 days for the Max Care to kick in?

I'm surprised that it would be only 30 days !