Going to catless pipes. What clamps, pipes and sealant to use to ensure no leaks?

[MacGyvers Mullet]

Well, it's time to make the move to a catless exhaust. A side sill rivet popped up and the paint is starting to bubble around it. Plus, the summer is here and now is the time to do this mod. After too much research of catless vs high flows, I am going to give catless the first shot. I figure it's a cheap start and if I am unhappy with it, I can toss in the high flows.

What are the best clamps that I can go with? It looks like band clamps are the better choice to prevent leaks, but I am unsure of which ones to get if I am going to used a flared straight pipe that will slip over the existing exhaust pipe. V-clamps seem to be pretty pricey and U-clamps seem to either bend pipes easily or not seal very well.

As for a straight pipe, is the somewhat popular choice of an Autozone 2.5" flared pipe okay? Or is there a better choice? Didn't want to grab something that will rust out in years to come.

Any sealant I can go with to help seal the joints?

Thanks in advance!

[Rtizzle]

I got the Roe racing kit. It came with everything you need.

[MacGyvers Mullet]

I got the Roe racing kit. It came with everything you need.

I considered that, but it seems a wee bit pricey for two pipes and some clamps, at $133 plus shipping.

[damstr]

I considered that, but it seems a wee bit pricey for two pipes and some clamps, at $133 plus shipping.

Peace of mind knowing that it comes with everything though.

[MacGyvers Mullet]

Peace of mind knowing that it comes with everything though.

Truth. On the flip side, it is only two pipes and a couple of clamps to shop for. If there is a half price solution at the same quality, then will be open to it. In not, I will go with this known package.

[ICPREY]

Just go to a local exhaust shop and ask for the pipe size needed and some exhaust clamps. V-band style clamps are nice, not required.

[Rtizzle]

I liked it because I didn't have to figure out the length and it was set up perfect for a quick job. The clamps were great and it was a solid 304 stainless pipe. It wasn't a cheap aluminum coated steel pipe. Not much to it. I could of saved $70 in material but the running around looking for stuff and having an exhaust shop widen my pipe would of been a hassle. 12-17+ hp for $135+ shipping was worth it to me.

[dave6666]

As one of the people that's not ignorant on all counts, I am aware that aluminized steel is very suitable for long term exhaust service except for the poser crowd that thinks shiny parts are kuuler.

For clamps I used Walker. No need to pay for an overpriced "kit." And no sealer or anything needed.

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff224/dave6666waybad/20160222_183210_zpspo30iddn.jpg (http://s241.photobucket.com/user/dave6666waybad/media/20160222_183210_zpspo30iddn.jpg.html)

[MacGyvers Mullet]

As one of the people that's not ignorant on all counts, I am aware that aluminized steel is very suitable for long term exhaust service except for the poser crowd that thinks shiny parts are kuuler.

For clamps I used Walker. No need to pay for an overpriced "kit." And no sealer or anything needed.

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff224/dave6666waybad/20160222_183210_zpspo30iddn.jpg (http://s241.photobucket.com/user/dave6666waybad/media/20160222_183210_zpspo30iddn.jpg.html)

Thanks, Dave. That's the alternative and clamp info I was looking for. I'll measure it out and have it made down the street.

[Fatboy 18]

I still have the stock headers on my 2000 GTS, I cut the pipe at the turnout then went to my local Auto store and bought a bit of steel pipe and a couple of clamps and some exhaust paste.

The turn out pipe was slightly smaller than the 3" pipe i purchased, so cut some short vertical slots in the new pipe to enable it to be squeezed down onto the oem pipe, I also needed to make some shim packing so cut down and opened out a beer can then cut some aluminium strips and wrapped it around the end of the oem pipe with exhaust paste, then sleeved over the new pipe and clamped down in place. Whole job done for under $56.00 both sides and did not have to remove any of the exhaust system off the car to to the job.
.......I know, I know........Cheapskate :smilielol:
Had to drink the Beer before cutting up the can :) :very_drunk:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7003/26674370464_f0da26b43c_c.jpg
https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7042/27281390455_607c04b916_c.jpg

This connects to a belanger cat back system giving me 127db LOUD

[Black94rt/10]

As one of the people that's not ignorant on all counts, I am aware that aluminized steel is very suitable for long term exhaust service except for the poser crowd that thinks shiny parts are kuuler.

For clamps I used Walker. No need to pay for an overpriced "kit." And no sealer or anything needed.

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff224/dave6666waybad/20160222_183210_zpspo30iddn.jpg (http://s241.photobucket.com/user/dave6666waybad/media/20160222_183210_zpspo30iddn.jpg.html)


This looks great! I bet you saved a bunch of cash compared to what i spent at Roe Racing for the same setup (3" pipe - cat delete with mufflers).

[Vprbite]

I still have the stock headers on my 2000 GTS, I cut the pipe at the turnout then went to my local Auto store and bought a bit of steel pipe and a couple of clamps and some exhaust paste.

The turn out pipe was slightly smaller than the 3" pipe i purchased, so cut some short vertical slots in the new pipe to enable it to be squeezed down onto the oem pipe, I also needed to make some shim packing so cut down and opened out a beer can then cut some aluminium strips and wrapped it around the end of the oem pipe with exhaust paste, then sleeved over the new pipe and clamped down in place. Whole job done for under $56.00 both sides and did not have to remove any of the exhaust system off the car to to the job.
.......I know, I know........Cheapskate :smilielol:
Had to drink the Beer before cutting up the can :) :very_drunk:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7003/26674370464_f0da26b43c_c.jpg
https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7042/27281390455_607c04b916_c.jpg

This connects to a belanger cat back system giving me 127db LOUD


Drinking beer and working on cars is strictly an American pastime. You wouldn't want us drinking tea and eating cucumber sandwiches would you? ; )

[Fatboy 18]

Drinking beer and working on cars is strictly an American pastime. You wouldn't want us drinking tea and eating cucumber sandwiches would you? ; )Cucumber sandwiches = Yuck! I prefer Tea to Coffee. A good Cheese and Onion roll and a pint of cider goes down well :)

[Luisv]

I had a misfire in Cylinder 1 due to a bad wire. As a result, I got an overheated cat and discolored sill. I've been toying with the idea of the cat removal so I went ahead and did it.

I went with the kit from Roe. Yes it's $130 but I had to do nothing but order it up from them. Stainless pipe, cut to length, flared on one end perfectly and a good set of clamps. In the end, the time I saved is worth a hell of a lot more than the $60 difference.

All I did was use a reciprocating saw (saws-all) to remove the cat at the front weld on the cat. Undid the clamp on the back end and removed the cat. I cleaned up the cut well with a grinder and the reassembled with the new pipe. From there I used Heatshield Products Heatshield Armor Kit (1/2" Thick x 1' Wide x 5' Long Exhaust PN/ 176005) to wrap the pipe. The 1' width is perfect to wrap the 2.5" pipe with a small bit of overlap. I also ordered some DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield. It's a self adhesive shield that I plan to place under the stock heat shield and at the firewall and footwell behind the small shield plate the car has near the flex pipe. Doing that just for good measure.

I've run the car already and the exhaust note is awesome. I have a Corsa cat back and now it has come alive with the removal of the cat. Well worth it. No drone. I would not recommend doing this without a good cat back that controls the drone. In other words, run the stock rear can or replace the whole catback with your choice of exhaust but do not run strait pipe (with or without a crossover) because the drone will drive you nuts. I ran it and while it's not deafening, it does get annoying. If you have a low tolerance for the drone.... keep the rear can.

BTW... dropping the 10 lbs per side does not hurt either....

[MacGyvers Mullet]

I had a misfire in Cylinder 1 due to a bad wire. As a result, I got an overheated cat and discolored sill. I've been toying with the idea of the cat removal so I went ahead and did it.

I went with the kit from Roe. Yes it's $130 but I had to do nothing but order it up from them. Stainless pipe, cut to length, flared on one end perfectly and a good set of clamps. In the end, the time I saved is worth a hell of a lot more than the $60 difference.

All I did was use a reciprocating saw (saws-all) to remove the cat at the front weld on the cat. Undid the clamp on the back end and removed the cat. I cleaned up the cut well with a grinder and the reassembled with the new pipe. From there I used Heatshield Products Heatshield Armor Kit (1/2" Thick x 1' Wide x 5' Long Exhaust PN/ 176005) to wrap the pipe. The 1' width is perfect to wrap the 2.5" pipe with a small bit of overlap. I also ordered some DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield. It's a self adhesive shield that I plan to place under the stock heat shield and at the firewall and footwell behind the small shield plate the car has near the flex pipe. Doing that just for good measure.

I've run the car already and the exhaust note is awesome. I have a Corsa cat back and now it has come alive with the removal of the cat. Well worth it. No drone. I would not recommend doing this without a good cat back that controls the drone. In other words, run the stock rear can or replace the whole catback with your choice of exhaust but do not run strait pipe (with or without a crossover) because the drone will drive you nuts. I ran it and while it's not deafening, it does get annoying. If you have a low tolerance for the drone.... keep the rear can.

BTW... dropping the 10 lbs per side does not hurt either....

Thanks for the info, especially since I will be keeping the stock exhaust intact. The last thing I wanted is drone, but adding a bit more throatiness will be nice if it ends up that way. One of these days I will get a catback system.

And yes, It's only $60 extra for the kit, and I'm not hurting for money. I would just rather save what I can when I can and use the saved money elsewhere in the car.