Differential

[2016ViperACR]

Hello Guys, I have a 2016 Viper ACR and i'm facing rear differential problem, I changed it 3 times and still the wine is not going away, does any body has a solution?

[lochnessmonster]

Hello Guys, I have a 2016 Viper ACR and i'm facing rear differential problem, I changed it 3 times and still the wine is not going away, does any body has a solution?

You've changed the differential 3 times, or the fluid?

[swexlin]

You've changed the differential 3 times, or the fluid?

My question as well. These diffs are proving to be an issue. Several people here have had them replaced. I have "some" whine, I must be 60+ in 5th or 6th gear, with the radio down, to hear it, but it is there. Some here have had a real howling, and have them replaced under warranty.

The question is, is it singing slightly, or is it really bad? FWIW, Challenger owners seem to be experiencing this as well, although they have Getrags, and we have Danas.

Bottom line - some of these diffs will sing "slightly", some will be quiet, depends on how they were set up and broken in. If yours is loud though, get it replaced under warranty.

[Madmav]

I could hear a very small whine at 60mph with the radio down had the car at the dealer for a different reason and they noticed it too, when they pulled the diff cover there was lots of abnormal wear and said it was only a matter of time till it became a large problem. Only have 500 mph on the new diff but no whine now

[swexlin]

I could hear a very small whine at 60mph with the radio down had the car at the dealer for a different reason and they noticed it too, when they pulled the diff cover there was lots of abnormal wear and said it was only a matter of time till it became a large problem. Only have 500 mph on the new diff but no whine now

Interesting, thank you. How many miles on the original diff? I have over 10,000 miles on mine. There have been several threads on here about the diffs, many of us have some singing. I think in your case, it probably would have gotten worse quickly. Glad you got it fixed.

[Jack B]

This has been discussed before. The diff is one part of the driveline that has a specific break-in procedure.

Go to the Unitrax site and download the break-in instructions. It is strange that none of the car companies emphasize this important procedure.

Basically, it is 30 minutes of light throttle with no deaccel, cool down and repeat 2 more times.

I installed a new gears on my G2 and put it on the lift after my first 30 min run, the outside diff temp was close to 200 deg F, they need to be broken in. That hightemp is from the gears mating. If you apply max torque right after pick-up, the odds of creating whine are increased

[1Koolasp 16ACR]

On My ACR , Driving At 60 In 5th , I Can Hear A Slight Wine When Letting Off The Throttle Slightly, But When Cruising At 60, I Hear Absolutely Nothing No Whine With Steady Throttle, So I Think I Will Do Nothing And Keep An Ear Out, And Let It Blow Up , Then Replace It . Looking To Do A Set Of 373's Anyway.

[swexlin]

On My ACR , Driving At 60 In 5th , I Can Hear A Slight Wine When Letting Off The Throttle Slightly, But When Cruising At 60, I Hear Absolutely Nothing No Whine With Steady Throttle, So I Think I Will Do Nothing And Keep An Ear Out, And Let It Blow Up , Then Replace It . Looking To Do A Set Of 373's Anyway.

It most likely will not blow up. Sounds like yours is very minor like mine. I have a few years left on warranty, so if it gets worse, or something happens, then I'll have it fixed, or may just have it done anyway at some time prior to warranty expiration.

[lochnessmonster]

This has been discussed before. The diff is one part of the driveline that has a specific break-in procedure.

Go to the Unitrax site and download the break-in instructions. It us strange that none of the car companies emphasize this important procedure.

Basically, it is 30 minutes of light throttle with no deaccel, cool down and repeat 2 more times.

I installed a new gears on my G2 and put it on the lift after my first 30 min run, the outside diff temp was close to 200 deg F, they need to be broken in. That hightemp is from the gears mating. If you apply max torque right after pick-up, the odds of creating whine are increased

Interesting. I didn't know this, and you're right, it should be emphasized. I don't even remember reading it in the manual with respect to "break-in". The only thing I would offer is a suggestion that you change the fluid and see what happens. It's a fairly straightforward procedure. Remove the aft section of the underside "shielding??". Drain the fluid. And make sure when you replace it that the new fluid you use contains the "anti shear" additive. I changed my fluid at 800 miles, along with the transmission and engine fluids. The tranny fluid was crystal clear, and the engine oil wasn't too bad, but the differential fluid was absolutely full of "break-in" metal. I was glad I did it, and my differential is absolutely silent.

[bluesrt]

changing your rear axle oil cause of a noise will never take the noise away/ its clearance noise/ noises when turning in a park lot will sometimes go away with a oil change back there,but never straight line howls

[donk_316]

What about the 6 miles put on the car during the drivetrain break in on the factory rollers? Full acceleration through all the gears.

[bluesrt]

What about the 6 miles put on the car during the drivetrain break in on the factory rollers? Full acceleration through all the gears.

don't think that's a issue, most of the time its people doing hard acceleration from stops running through gears,it only takes one time,also burning rubber, will fubar your gears and give you pinion howl

[Jack B]

If it has a whine, that usually means the pattern on the ring/pinion has changed/shifted. In affect, you are wearing the ring gear, the increased spacing is the whine. It gets complicated, it is not just the clearance, the pattern between the ring and pinion is critical.

[donk_316]

...

[Coloviper]

Replace the bearings and fluid, then reshim. They are very touchy. A really good 4x4 off-road shop is best to set it up if your dodge dealer mechanic is not qualified or comfortable. There is nothing magical back there. Just brute force as tons of torque. Everything has to line up perfect to be quiet. Issue was corrected on my 06' Coupe with this same resolve. Did not require replacement and it sang prior. Hope it helps!

[1ststrike]

I have seen a couple cars on the rollers at the factory and have not seen any full throttle runs. I never saw them go above 3000 rpm.

[Jack B]

I think you are right, the engine is pushed at Arrow on the engine dyno, the chasis dyno is just a system check.. The only reason i brought up this break-in issue is that i have installed a half dozen rear gear sets in vipers and the only one that sang was the one I did not break in.


I have seen a couple cars on the rollers at the factory and have not seen any full throttle runs. I never saw them go above 3000 rpm.

[kverges]

I am pretty sure that routine is for breaking in the limited slip differential, not a ring and pinion

[swexlin]

In the real world, how many people really take the time and follow the proper procedure? I would have tried had I bought the car new. I think this may be a reason that so many of our cars have some singing or whine. Some of course, are worse than others, and need attending to.

[FLATOUT]

There have been a small number of diff issues on the 16's but they have been replaced under warranty at ViperExchange.

[Jack B]

It is for the ring and pinion. Don't take my word for it, call Unitrax.



I am pretty sure that routine is for breaking in the limited slip differential, not a ring and pinion

[mblgjr]

Most of the time, for any given R/P size & ratio; it will "sing" a harmonic at one point.

Shouldn't sing or whine ALL the time. But you will usually be able to find "that one spot" where it'll sing (usually quietly).

Not disregarding some cars have had build issues, etc. Just that on an ACR with the sound deadening out; I'm sure you WILL hear the R/P have a pitch at some point.

[NYvipertech]

As for what Andy said Yes there are some 2016 ACR rear diff issues. Our 16 ACR we sold wasted the rear at 56miles. From what I was told if the ACR was built between Jan1 - Mar9 it could have a rear fluid issue, which causes the bearings to fail. I got a Full rear a day later and installed it on the customers car and no issues since then. And yes it was under Warranty

[1Koolasp 16ACR]

Hey ,NY Vipertech, What IS Your Dealer And Location , Need A Good Tech , Nobody Here On The Island I Can Trust With My Car. PM Sent.

[kverges]

OK, I would like to have an explanation as to how turning the car can possibly affect the load, wear pattern, or anything else about how the ring and pinon are operating. I can see how it would put a load on the clutch plates in a traditional clutch style limited slip differential and I have done figure 8s as breaking for a new LSD, but I'm completely mystified as to how it would affect a ring and pinion

[Jack B]

It shouldn't


OK, I would like to have an explanation as to how turning the car can possibly affect the load, wear pattern, or anything else about how the ring and pinon are operating. I can see how it would put a load on the clutch plates in a traditional clutch style limited slip differential and I have done figure 8s as breaking for a new LSD, but I'm completely mystified as to how it would affect a ring and pinion

[One Viper Bite]

I picked up a 2013 GTS with 10,700 miles on it. Noticed the whine coming from the rear end / transmission at first but thought it was normal. I'm 2,000 miles into it now and noticed today that the whine has gotten unbearably loud. My whine only happens on deceleration though. It happens in any gear at any RPM and is constant through deceleration. Wine goes away when I'm on the throttle. It even makes noise coasting in neutral. Not sure what's going on but working to get it to an SRT Tech ASAP.

[swexlin]

I picked up a 2013 GTS with 10,700 miles on it. Noticed the whine coming from the rear end / transmission at first but thought it was normal. I'm 2,000 miles into it now and noticed today that the whine has gotten unbearably loud. My whine only happens on deceleration though. It happens in any gear at any RPM and is constant through deceleration. Wine goes away when I'm on the throttle. It even makes noise coasting in neutral. Not sure what's going on but working to get it to an SRT Tech ASAP.


They should be replacing your diff under warranty. I've noticed now in the warmer weather, my minor whine, which is only noticeable in a high gear (5-6) at 60+, is less noticeable. I have 10,300 miles on my car.

Yours obviously needs looked at asap. But in any gear, at any RPM, doesn't fit the pattern here that we've seen from others. Maybe there is something else going in. Please keep us posted.

[DZnutz]

Has anyone noticed that the original poster hasnt replied since this threads inception? and has only 1 post?

[Jprince]

Has anyone noticed that the original poster hasnt replied since this threads inception? and has only 1 post?
I noticed that too.

[Banzai88]

I just took my car in for the recalls and they told me my rear diff needs replacing because it's making noise. They had to order the new diff so I picked up my car and I hear a very slight gear whine but i thought it was normal gear noise. It's not clunking or making any loud noises and the slight whine doesn't bother me. Should I just leave it alone or have them change it? This dealer doesn't even have a "Viper tech" so I'm hesitant to allow them to do any major work on my car, worried they might screw something up.

[swexlin]

I just took my car in for the recalls and they told me my rear diff needs replacing because it's making noise. They had to order the new diff so I picked up my car and I hear a very slight gear whine but i thought it was normal gear noise. It's not clunking or making any loud noises and the slight whine doesn't bother me. Should I just leave it alone or have them change it? This dealer doesn't even have a "Viper tech" so I'm hesitant to allow them to do any major work on my car, worried they might screw something up.

If it doesn't bother you, and it doesn't get worse, up to you if you want to leave it alone. But if they're offering, take them up on it, I would.

[Jack B]

"57"?


I noticed that too.

[One Viper Bite]

This has been discussed before. The diff is one part of the driveline that has a specific break-in procedure.

Go to the Unitrax site and download the break-in instructions. It is strange that none of the car companies emphasize this important procedure.

Basically, it is 30 minutes of light throttle with no deaccel, cool down and repeat 2 more times.

I installed a new gears on my G2 and put it on the lift after my first 30 min run, the outside diff temp was close to 200 deg F, they need to be broken in. That hightemp is from the gears mating. If you apply max torque right after pick-up, the odds of creating whine are increased

Where did you find this? Looked all over their site and didn't find anything. Tried to submit a question but the page 404s.

Turns out my rear end ate itself to pieces. It's currently being replaced under warranty but my buddy who is an SRT Tech can't find any official "break in" documentation for the rear end.

[lochnessmonster]

"57"?

Hahaha..... That cracked me up. Nice.

[swexlin]

Where did you find this? Looked all over their site and didn't find anything. Tried to submit a question but the page 404s.

Turns out my rear end ate itself to pieces. It's currently being replaced under warranty but my buddy who is an SRT Tech can't find any official "break in" documentation for the rear end.

Someone posted instructions in one the threads here recently. It was a bit complicated, but perhaps worth it if getting a brand new one.

[Jack B]

Go to the Unitrax website


Someone posted instructions in one the threads here recently. It was a bit complicated, but perhaps worth it if getting a brand new one.

[Policy Limits]

4 model years later going into a 5th model year of a generation. ...must be frustrating. These cars are hit or miss in many aspects. It seems like it comes down to luck as to who has issues and who doesn't. That honestly doesn't make me want to go run out and order a 2017. Hope the differential issues are sorted soon.

[dethred]

4 model years later going into a 5th model year of a generation. ...must be frustrating. These cars are hit or miss in many aspects. It seems like it comes down to luck as to who has issues and who doesn't. That honestly doesn't make me want to go run out and order a 2017. Hope the differential issues are sorted soon.

Eh, it's under warranty and as long as you press your dealership for a quick replacement (which I learned with the second dealership), then it's a minor headache. Worst part is the 500-mile recommended "take-it-easy" period. For a car with this much performance, I think most people are having fairly good reliability, and probably amazing reliability when compared to other similarly-powered cars.

[One Viper Bite]

Go to the Unitrax website



I did. I found nothing related to break in instructions for our cars / rear ends...

[ACR PWR]

Interesting. I didn't know this, and you're right, it should be emphasized. I don't even remember reading it in the manual with respect to "break-in". The only thing I would offer is a suggestion that you change the fluid and see what happens. It's a fairly straightforward procedure. Remove the aft section of the underside "shielding??". Drain the fluid. And make sure when you replace it that the new fluid you use contains the "anti shear" additive. I changed my fluid at 800 miles, along with the transmission and engine fluids. The tranny fluid was crystal clear, and the engine oil wasn't too bad, but the differential fluid was absolutely full of "break-in" metal. I was glad I did it, and my differential is absolutely silent.

Hey Lochness, is there any DIY information on how to do the transmission fluid and diffs?
Stuff like , crushed washers needed/ torque specs/ panel removal procedure?

Thanks



Thanks

[ACR PWR]

As for what Andy said Yes there are some 2016 ACR rear diff issues. Our 16 ACR we sold wasted the rear at 56miles. From what I was told if the ACR was built between Jan1 - Mar9 it could have a rear fluid issue, which causes the bearings to fail. I got a Full rear a day later and installed it on the customers car and no issues since then. And yes it was under Warranty

Hello NY Vipertech.

so if I ordered my ACR on March 15 and just received it I should have the updated rear diff?

Thanks

[Dr.Ron]

I hear a bit of a whine from the rear, but only in 5th & 6th gear, and it's only when I am on throttle & I can only hear it in those 2 gears.
2014 GTS with 2200 miles.

Any comments? Normal?
I do think the rear is a bit clunky at times on shifts, but I'm not sure if It's just me still learning the clutch engagement point and how to drive this car after 13 years of Corvettes.

Ron

[Pappy]

As for what Andy said Yes there are some 2016 ACR rear diff issues. Our 16 ACR we sold wasted the rear at 56miles. From what I was told if the ACR was built between Jan1 - Mar9 it could have a rear fluid issue, which causes the bearings to fail. I got a Full rear a day later and installed it on the customers car and no issues since then. And yes it was under Warranty

Just changed the differential fluid on my 16 ACR (serial no. 367) with 1999 miles. No metal and I was surprised how clean the fluid was. No "burnt" smell. My car was built right in the middle of the problem window, BUT on March 9th it was removed from shipping status and "re-bayed" and wasn't shipped until the second week in April. I did not get a recall and I have had no issues with rear end noise. I suspect I got the rear end fix during the month-long re-bay period.

Pappy

[swexlin]

I hear a bit of a whine from the rear, but only in 5th & 6th gear, and it's only when I am on throttle & I can only hear it in those 2 gears.
2014 GTS with 2200 miles.

Any comments? Normal?
I do think the rear is a bit clunky at times on shifts, but I'm not sure if It's just me still learning the clutch engagement point and how to drive this car after 13 years of Corvettes.

Ron

Same thing my diff did - some whine in 5th and 6th, not loud, but there. Some clunkiness here and there. Took it in, tech immediately ordered a new one. So far, with the new one, less clunky (those these cars do have some slop at low speeds), and much quieter. But, there is still some subtle whine in 6th at 70+, but lessens after 80. Damn Dana diffs!

Many here have noticed some. I am a musician in a former life (the organ of all things - some I can hear a pipe in some mixture in the Brustwerk out of tune). So, I can hear some subtle whine that others may not notice. Truth be told, I didn't really notice my first diff, until I read some of the threads here - than I began listening to it carefully.

[Dr.Ron]

Thanks!

Well I have to take it in real soon for the R28/29 so I'll have them check that as well.

Ron

[viperr]

I recently noticed a loud whine coming from the back of my 2014 GTS coupe at 28,000 miles. I took it to the dealer and when they drained the old fluid it had lots of metal in it. They got a new differential in less than the week and installed it at no cost. I have the 10 year 100,000 mile warranty and was glad to have FCA take care of me. While the car was in the shop they also replaced my leaking oil cooler lines. Hopefully this fixes everything and I can go back to putting miles on my Viper (assuming the weather clears up here in Washington State).

I wanted to post this to the forum for other owners which may have similar issues.

[Garron]

At my dealership, When we are changing the oil in the differentials on the Gen 5 cars the fluid is black by the time the vehicle is in for its third oil change.

I’m not sure if Dana set them tight from factory, the quality of the oil is lower or they just have less airflow then the previous gens.

If your differential oil is dirty I would change it, or the bearings will fail

[swexlin]

I recently noticed a loud whine coming from the back of my 2014 GTS coupe at 28,000 miles. I took it to the dealer and when they drained the old fluid it had lots of metal in it. They got a new differential in less than the week and installed it at no cost. I have the 10 year 100,000 mile warranty and was glad to have FCA take care of me. While the car was in the shop they also replaced my leaking oil cooler lines. Hopefully this fixes everything and I can go back to putting miles on my Viper (assuming the weather clears up here in Washington State).

I wanted to post this to the forum for other owners which may have similar issues.

Diff and oil cooler lines - what many of us have had done! Glad to hear to got it fixed.

[SRT_BluByU]

the dana 60 is a solid and proven diff.. noise can usually be caused by improper installation of ring and pinion or improper break-in.

[swexlin]

the dana 60 is a solid and proven diff.. noise can usually be caused by improper installation of ring and pinion or improper break-in.

I think we have a Dana 44, right? Still a good proven diff. Some of us have had replacements though, for whatever reason,

[Racingswh]

I just had mine replaced under warranty as well. 3700 miles. Fluid changed out 3 times. Friction modifier additive used properly the entire time. While it was there they also replaced 5 broken lug studs under warranty.

Phenomenal service from FCA and then specifically Nick the Service Writer and Travis the SRT Mechanic at Fred Beans Dodge in Doylestown, PA.

I couldn't be happier. Best car purchase I have ever made.

[swexlin]

I've heard good things as well about Beans Doylestown Viper tech. If my guy at D'Ambrosio's retires, I'm going to go to Beans.

[SRT_BluByU]

I think we have a Dana 44, right? Still a good proven diff. Some of us have had replacements though, for whatever reason,

Sorry.. yes you are correct

[CNU_Physics]

Interesting, same rear as my 06 GTO...which also had a whine from the factory that gradually got worse and needed to be replaced.