ACR brake ducts scrape on wheel weights on TA 2

[Stubbygda]

I put ACR brake ducts on my TA 2 and at 3/4 to full steering lock the inside wheel weights scrape on the back edge of the ducts. Does it on one side or the other depending on whether u r turning right or left. Anybody else havin this issue? I know the ACR has 19" wheels versus my 18" but i would think others would have also run into this issue on non ACRs. I tried static balancing the wheels to get rid of inside weights but shakes bad above 90 so im gonna have to go back to dynamic balancing. I guess i will try to notch back edge of duct for clearance? Any input appreciated.

[Voice of Reason]

I put ACR brake ducts on my TA 2 and at 3/4 to full steering lock the inside wheel weights scrape on the back edge of the ducts. Does it on one side or the other depending on whether u r turning right or left. Anybody else havin this issue? I know the ACR has 19" wheels versus my 18" but i would think others would have also run into this issue on non ACRs. I tried static balancing the wheels to get rid of inside weights but shakes bad above 90 so im gonna have to go back to dynamic balancing. I guess i will try to notch back edge of duct for clearance? Any input appreciated.

I haven't had mine on long enough to notice but I'll check the next time I drive it!

[AZTVR]

I tried static balancing the wheels to get rid of inside weights but shakes bad above 90 so im gonna have to go back to dynamic balancing. I guess i will try to notch back edge of duct for clearance? Any input appreciated.

There are low profile wheel weights, and wheel weights that have one contoured surface so that they can be mounted with the long side perpendicular to the wheel's axis. Some possible options depending on the amount of your lack of clearance.

[Stealth]

I have heard a "pop" from the front wheel areas when backing up since I added the ACR Ducts so perhaps this is what it is. I do not get it all the time, just ocassionally when backing at near lock. My '14 GTS has Sidewinder II wheels like the TA. I will need to make sure my wheel weights are still there!

[Nine Ball]

Likely because the ducts were designed to work with 19" front wheels on the ACR, which offer more clearance. You can rebalance the wheels with the weights set to a more inward position, if you set the balancing machine to calculate the required weight at a different position on the barrel.

[Stubbygda]

Likely because the ducts were designed to work with 19" front wheels on the ACR, which offer more clearance. You can rebalance the wheels with the weights set to a more inward position, if you set the balancing machine to calculate the required weight at a different position on the barrel.

I talked with the guy balancing the wheels and he said to do that they would have to input the rim size say as 8" vs 10" and that would allow them to be 2" from inside edge. His concern was that it might not balance correctly since the rim was really bigger. I dont think he really knew and suggested static balance which worked great to about 90 then vibrated badly. I know u do wheels and stuff do u think dynamic balance telling machine the rim is more narrow will work?

[Stubbygda]

I have heard a "pop" from the front wheel areas when backing up since I added the ACR Ducts so perhaps this is what it is. I do not get it all the time, just ocassionally when backing at near lock. My '14 GTS has Sidewinder II wheels like the TA. I will need to make sure my wheel weights are still there!

Yep same noise as mine. Im guessing ur weights r still there just some scrapes on back side of duct.

[Simms]

Anyone have a pic of the contact point on the duct?

[Stubbygda]

Anyone have a pic of the contact point on the duct?

Its not that clear but the contact is right above end of my finger.

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Here is weight contact

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[esm_viper]

I just looked at my wheels, the weights are closer to the outside near the spokes. Are the ducts only hitting the wheel weights, or are they hitting the inside of the wheel as well?

[Stubbygda]

I just looked at my wheels, the weights are closer to the outside near the spokes. Are the ducts only hitting the wheel weights, or are they hitting the inside of the wheel as well?

Hard to say. I had them static balanced which moved weights to center and noise went away but it could still be touching rim. I have it on my 2 post lift so cant tell cause plenty clear at droop. I need to move it to my 4 post so i can see it loaded. Im gonna try and do that tomorrow. If it is hitting rim it seems very slight.

[Andi]

I just checked on my TA (1.0 // same thing as far as this thread is concerned) and they do indeed rub the sidewinder II wheels. Interestingly, full droop is NOT the situation where they rub (my car is on jack stands with the wheels hanging right now and they don't touch). So, it's some other driving situation where they rub. I will dremel mine before letting the car back down.

Here's some pics. Hope this helps.


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Cheers,
Andi

[esm_viper]

Thanks for the pics. I'm going to trim mine before I install them.

[Stealth]

My wheel weights are mounted on the outside of the rims so they're certainly not hitting the brake ducts. I will have to determine what is actually hitting. My brake ducts, if they are hitting, are hitting only occasionally on very sharp, near locked wheel positions when backing and then it's a short little pop and not a rubbing on the rim. thank you again for the photos.

I plan to jack the car up at each front corner and just start dremelling the duct!

[Stubbygda]

Stealth remeber even if ur wheels dont have weights on outside this time next balance they might. Typically dynamic balancing ends up with small weight on outside and bulk of weight near spoke side. Anyway my suggestion is to cut enough to clear weights if they were there or u might be doing it again. I started trimming mine oon the car on my lift but i ended up taking off because i needed to cut about 1/4-3/8" off back edge. I also put a 1/8" rivet to hold the 2 pieces together because when u trim it u cut off the bottom lip that overlaps top piece.

Here is a pic of modded left side unmodded right
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Here r both side done
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I added metal tape on edge to make it easy to see if ever rubs and also to prevent any airflow from going thru the split. here r the finished ducts. Full lock lt and rt no scrapping at least for now lol.
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[Nine Ball]

I talked with the guy balancing the wheels and he said to do that they would have to input the rim size say as 8" vs 10" and that would allow them to be 2" from inside edge. His concern was that it might not balance correctly since the rim was really bigger. I dont think he really knew and suggested static balance which worked great to about 90 then vibrated badly. I know u do wheels and stuff do u think dynamic balance telling machine the rim is more narrow will work?

Nobody uses static (bubble balance) tools to balance performance wheels. If the operator knows what he is doing, he should certainly be able to input the parameters into the dynamic balancing machine to tell it where to position the weights. Then the machine just calculates the required weight, based on those positions it was programmed for. I've had to do this a few times, mostly for cars with big brakes and very little room between the calipers and barrel.

[Stubbygda]

Nobody uses static (bubble balance) tools to balance performance wheels. If the operator knows what he is doing, he should certainly be able to input the parameters into the dynamic balancing machine to tell it where to position the weights. Then the machine just calculates the required weight, based on those positions it was programmed for. I've had to do this a few times, mostly for cars with big brakes and very little room between the calipers and barrel.

Yea sounds like i need to find a better wheel balancing guy. Ive always had good luck with these folks but not a performance focused outfit. Thanks for the info, now i should be good no matter where they put em.

[Stealth]

Rivets are a bit beyond my wheelhouse! My first step will be to jack the care up to see where it is hitting. I have only rarely heard any noise--full lock backing up.

Thanks again for the explanations and pics!

[darbgnik]

Rivets are a bit beyond my wheelhouse! My first step will be to jack the care up to see where it is hitting. I have only rarely heard any noise--full lock backing up.

Thanks again for the explanations and pics!

You can buy a complete kit including gun for less than 20 bucks. And you're only a youtube video away from being an expert ;)

[Andi]

I just checked on my TA (1.0 // same thing as far as this thread is concerned) and they do indeed rub the sidewinder II wheels. Interestingly, full droop is NOT the situation where they rub (my car is on jack stands with the wheels hanging right now and they don't touch). So, it's some other driving situation where they rub. I will dremel mine before letting the car back down.

Here's some pics. Hope this helps.


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Cheers,
Andi


So I just learned how to use a dremel by trying it out on the brake ducts. Hope this gives enough clearance. If this is not enough, next step will be rebalancing the F wheels per Nine Ball's suggestion and/or replacing that giant rivet with a smaller one.

More pics attached. First pic is shows the starting point (and shows evidence of the abrasion). Next 3 pics are post-dremeling.

Fingers crossed.


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[Voice of Reason]

I took my ducts off last night after being on for a week. There was some very light scuffing in the same spot on each of them that tells me the wheels did rub a little. Also in that time I maybe put 150 miles on the car. MAYBE. And the amount of rocks that came pouring out of them was unbelievable. I'll be trimming mine back like the pics above but I won't be driving with them on all the time. I'll install them when I head to the track and that's it, I don't care to have the brakes blasted by rocks. I know there was a thread about putting some mesh over the front, these rocks were of varying sizes and to block them the mesh would need to be pretty restrictive, so much that I don't think it would be worth even having them on.

It's really too bad these need trimmed to work with 18" rims. I know they were designed for the ACR, but 5 extra minutes of thinking about other applications should have alerted the CAD designer to allow a little more clearance.

[Stealth]

I used the dremel on my ducts in place as well.

Like Andi, I had only one small area on the inboard side of each duct where there was slight scuffing. Hopefully, I took enough material to avoid scraping. I did not notice any scraping on the wheels or wheel weights on the inside edge if the weeks.

[Dr.Ron]

Which dremel bit worked best? Sand paper one? Other?

[Andi]

Which dremel bit worked best? Sand paper one? Other?

I have no idea :(. It was my first time using a dremel that I got second-hand. I used whatever bit was on there (LOL). Wish I could be more helpful.

[Dr.Ron]

LOL
Was it a thin disk or something else?

[Andi]

After doing some googling, I believe it was a sanding drum. I'm no saying it was this exact one, but it looked like this:
http://www.amazon.com/McKay-Abrasive-Sanding-Rotary-Tools/dp/B01E7P3Y2Y

[Dr.Ron]

Great, thanks!
I figure I'll have to do this as well & if I knew going in which one worked best it would save some time....That's the one I asked about and figured would work best.

Ron

[darbgnik]

I just installed these on my car, along with some new Carbotech pads from Mark J. I used a flapper wheel on a grinder to do mine(same as I used to clean the rotors), but thanks to the pioneers above, for saving me the guess work on the trimming. Appreciate it!

Hope I don't run out of brake this weekend, we'll see!

[Topplayer]

its plastic ANY of the bits will work fine. lol.

I find with the sand paper one some times the plastic builds up around the bit, I normally use the drill bit looking one