Price of N/A build on 02 GTS

[venum4u]

Wanted to get an idea on cost to have the following done. Ported heads, port matched intake, cam, rockers, timing chain, and light weight flywheel. Car already has an after market exhaust and headers. Thanks

[The Stig]

Call Greg Good.. or Roe depending on budget.... the old saying Speed cost money.. its true.. I went for a Gen 3 top end up grade on my gen 2

[J TNT]

You also have the option of a Gen 4 top end ;) Maybe even a Gen 5 Intake :)

[ViperTony]

I got the Greg Good treatment. Give him a call for cost. But I would guesstimate (check with Greg) $3-4k for the ported heads (stock ported heads, valves, guides, seals, springs, slow-bleed lifters, etc.) plus ported intake. Another $600 or so for the cam. Timing chain I used my stock chain and had Greg offset the timing sprocket for the proper centerline. Lightweight flywheel no idea. Rockers, I bought a set of T&D's for $800 but probably $1,200 for those new, Jesels are much more. Keep in mind you also need to budget for gaskets, fluids, spark plugs, head bolts if not re-using the OEM bolts, pushrods and tuning. Then there's labor unless you're a DIY'r. Done right it costs money. No complaints here.

But there are options above and beyond working the GenII heads and intake. Call Greg, at the very least, he'll guide you down the right path without taking your money. Great guy.

Oh, if you decided to go with 70mm throttle bodies figure another $600 for those new from Accufab and they include the gaskets. Greg ported TB openings on the intake when he ported it for me knowing someday I would go with the larger throttle bodies.

[slitherv10]

I got the Greg Good treatment. Give him a call for cost. But I would guesstimate (check with Greg) $3-4k for the ported heads (stock ported heads, valves, guides, seals, springs, slow-bleed lifters, etc.) plus ported intake. Another $600 or so for the cam. Timing chain I used my stock chain and had Greg offset the timing sprocket for the proper centerline. Lightweight flywheel no idea. Rockers, I bought a set of T&D's for $800 but probably $1,200 for those new, Jesels are much more. Keep in mind you also need to budget for gaskets, fluids, spark plugs, head bolts if not re-using the OEM bolts, pushrods and tuning. Then there's labor unless you're a DIY'r. Done right it costs money. No complaints here.

But there are options above and beyond working the GenII heads and intake. Call Greg, at the very least, he'll guide you down the right path without taking your money. Great guy.

Oh, if you decided to go with 70mm throttle bodies figure another $600 for those new from Accufab and they include the gaskets. Greg ported TB openings on the intake when he ported it for me knowing someday I would go with the larger throttle bodies.

What sort of RWHP gains would you get with the ported and polished heads, cam , rockers and Gen5 or 4 intake? Roughly?

[ViperTony]

What sort of RWHP gains would you get with the ported and polished heads, cam , rockers and Gen5 or 4 intake? Roughly?

With my mods I'm at 560's, I think it was 562/567 HP and TQ on an incomplete tune I did back in 2011. That was prior to a ported intake and larger tb's. I'm heading for tuning this spring but I suspect it'll be another 20hp or so on top of what I already have. We'll see. I have no idea what gains can be had with a Gen5 or Gen4 intake or heads. I picked up about 120rwhp with my greg good heads and cam w/tuning. I already had exhaust, rockers prior to the GG treatment.

[Dan Cragin]

There are several options when it comes to head and cam changes, depending on your budget and use. If it's a track car you will want to upgrade the valve seats, guides, valves and lifters with the porting. This really does not add much power but improves reliability. The stock valve seats do not have a really good press, so if you run quite a bit more spring pressure or severely overheat the car, the valve seats can fall out. If it's just a street driven car and you are on a limited budget, the stock valve seats, valves and guides will work fine with a little better spring and retainer. Cam selection depends on use also, does the car need to pass smog? You want to match the cam and compression ratio to the type of driving you do. Big cams typically work well in the upper rpm ranges and are great for racing, they require more spring pressure and can effect low speed drivability. For the street, bigger is not better.
You will want to change to a better "adjustable" timing gear and chain setup or modify your timing gear to properly "centerline" the camshaft. Proper cam timing and compression ratio are critical to making power on these engines. Depending on your budget and use, there are a couple choices on lifters. If you can afford it I always try to overbuild when it comes to engine work. A proper performance lifter with a tie bar is the way to go, they don't bleed down and the rollers are better, less chance of problems. There are many choices on rocker arms, shaft mounted are the best, but for a street build on a budget there are other options that work just fine.
First determine your budget, then your use and power level. The gas you run will make a difference on the setup as well, will you use 91, 93 or race fuel? If your car is supercharged then you will want to add head studs and some other extras to keep it reliable.
Once you have it all together, you are going to need a calibration or dyno tune the car to make it run right, this can be one of the most important things long term enjoyment of the build.

Hope this helps,