How do you know when to replace rear wheel bearing assembly?

[AFL in CA]

My GenII ACR has noisy rear brakes since I went with a different compound rear pad....but I want to be sure its not the rear wheel bearings. Is there a definitive test that would help me ascertain whether the noise is just the pads or possibly the rear wheel bearings?

Regards,
Aaron

[XSnake]

My GenII ACR has noisy rear brakes since I went with a different compound rear pad....but I want to be sure its not the rear wheel bearings. Is there a definitive test that would help me ascertain whether the noise is just the pads or possibly the rear wheel bearings?

Regards,
Aaron

Jack the corner up in the air. Try and shake the wheel. If there is ANY movement replace the bearing.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Aaron, one of the FIRST symptoms is a subtle scuff-scuff noise not unlike a warped brake rotor.

If the noise gets worse when cornering-loading THAT side, and gets better when UNLOADING that side, its probably a wheel bearing.

Then, do as MTGTS states.....unload the wheels with a jack, and try and induce "play" in the wheel-tire unit by pulling and pushing at top-bottom and side-to side. Any PLAY means to stop playing and replace the bearings soon.....

[AFL in CA]

Thanks guys! I've never gotten the noise cornering or when unloading side to side forces, just when I coast or lift the throttle. I also jacked up both sides and neither wheel had any movement, so its just really noisy rear pads.

Regards,
Aaron

[XSnake]

Thanks guys! I've never gotten the noise cornering or when unloading side to side forces, just when I coast or lift the throttle. I also jacked up both sides and neither wheel had any movement, so its just really noisy rear pads.

Regards,
Aaron

Check the parking brake pads. I know on the G3's that the inner one like to not release causing premature wear and noise.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

He has a Gen II ACR, so there are no 'E-brake pads' to check, the rear main caliper is one in the same unless you have a BBK like Matt.

But here is a hint: DONT rouitinely use your E-brake if you dont need to! Every time you pull the handle you adjust the E-cable tighter, and move the rear pads a pit closer to the rotor. Since they are thick and new, you can UNDUCE pad-drag by too much E-braking!

Parking on the flat? NO E-BRAKE. Break-The-Brake habit. (Especially urgent on G3-4 to inspect the inner E-pads; Inner; Damage WILL result if you ignore this out-of-sight area.

[AFL in CA]

Dear Jon,

I believe that is exactly what I've done. My last residence had steep driveway angles, so I always had to leave the e-brake in place and turn the wheels. (just in case) I did lubricate the cable as much as I could when I changed the pads, but most of where I park is on some sort of an angle. One of my co-workers forgot to put his e-brake on and his mustang slowly rolled to a stop against another co-workers pickup....so I'm kinda of stuck. I don't have the Big Brake Kit, but I'm wondering if there's some other way to move the pads out just a little so they don't ride on the rotor and cause all the noise.

I chatted with Toddy who's right here in town and we agreed to meet after the holidays for a more thorough inspection.

Also, my next Viper (after I pay off the prowler) will be a Gen IV ACR, so I've watched the threads about how to ensure I don't ruin the rear rotors.

Merry Christmas everyone!!

Regards,
Aaron