Stripped Upper Ball Joint & A-Arm Threads

[Blue96GTS]

Title pretty much sums it up!

First, let's remember I bought this car used. Since her purchase, my attempts have been restoration to greatness via TLC - seems like she had a hard life before me. I'm in the process of upgrading brakes and along the way replacing other items of abuse while in the area, ball joints included. I only mention this, as I don't believe I was the culprit, as I was only unscrewing...

As I was unscrewing with an unusually long breaker bar, the correct 2 9/64" ball joint lug and all of my might, I was pondering how hard it was to remove these things - given they are only supposed to be torqued to 100 lb/ft. Unfortunately, whatever happened along the way happened to both sides, as the pictures will attest.

So, I suppose the obvious thing here is not only the need for ball joints, but some upper control arms to boot. Might as well go the rest of the way and do the control arm bushings! Perhaps this is why the manual recommends replacing then entire arm assembly upon ball joint failure...

Besides horrifying pics, I do have a couple of questions:

1.) Besides mis-threading, how else might this have happened?
2.) Since I'm not the original owner, I don't know if this is the original ball joint or not. I have my suspicions as to not... The dust covers were in great shape, but those are easily changed out. The only identifying mark on the uppers is the letter B on the top of the joint, which apparently stands for Broken. Can anyone identify these ball joints as OEM or aftermarket?
3.) Besides replacing the upper control arms, any chance of repairing the existing arms?
4.) Both of the ball joints have indentation "marks/gouges" as you can see in one of the pics. Both marks look similar, but not as pronounced on one side and definitely don't look like a manufacturing "feature". What the hell is that from?

Thanks for the feedback.
Mike

15009

15010

15012

15011

[Blue96GTS]

A quote from pp. 2-25 of the 1996 service manual:

"Due to the torque required to thread the ball joint into the control arm and the risk of damage to the threads when removing and installing the ball joint, the upper ball joint is not replaceable."

I guess they were not kidding...

Lower ball joint is listed as being a R/R item.

Guess you should learn from my mistake... Don't be attempting to change out the upper ball joint just because you think it's a good idea while you're there...

Given the fact this upper ball joint is readily available, I still think it stinks.

[AZTVR]

Well, to your credit, it appears that it has been done successfully before, at least as I have read in a couple of threads. I suspect that there could be some galling or galvanic corrosion involved which bonded the steel and aluminum in your case. I wouldn't be surprised that the older the car, the worse the possible issue is. I have messed up an aluminum head (old Miata) by removing a recalcitrant spark plug that I am 100% sure was not cross threaded. There was no other way to remove it; but, it drug aluminum out with it, bonded to the steel threads. Many folks recommend a tiny bit of anti-seize for steel spark plug threads in aluminum head, because of the potential removal issues many years later. You must have encountered the same type issue. Lucky you. :(

[Blue96GTS]

Good news to behold! As it turns out, the threads for these ball joints are not very prominent. I thought I'd stripped the whole lot for sure. However, upon taking the uppers over to Mark @ IPSCO, the uppers were thoroughly cleaned, inspected, and declared fit. This was all before I received the new uppers and confirmed - dang, those threads are shallow! Sure enough, the new uppers threaded right in and torqued nicely to 100 lb/ft. They look great, and they are buttery smooth, unlike their predecessors. So, all is well in upper ball-joint land. Happily the progress continues.

A BIG shout out to Mark @ IPSCO for his help with my continual adventures.

Here's a couple of pics:

Pic of the clean uppers and threads:

15271

Pics of old/new ball joints. New ball joints are Howe:

15272
15273

Uppers with installed ball joints:

15274
15275

[AZTVR]

Very good to hear that it wasn't as bad as it seemed! You should post part#s and source (if aftermarket) for the ball joints that worked for you, after you finish assembly and test. It may help the next guy attempting this job.

[Blue96GTS]

Will do. Things are going back together slow but sure. I'm headed on the road for a couple of weeks, which will give me time to post my adventures. I've been taking plenty of pics along the way.

Here are a few findings at this point:

I replaced the upper and lower ball joint with Howe ball joints. All I can tell you currently is they look nice, and feel smooth. The old ones definitely had some issues compared to the feel of these thus far.

Upper Howe ball joint part number: 22310 (replaces K778)
Lower Howe ball joint part number: 22408

Lowers pressed in without a hitch.

I DO NOT recommend the Howe Viton dust boots for the ball joints. They seem too large to fit snug around the ball joint, like it seems they should. The ball joint dust boots that I took off were dirty, but in great shape, so I've cleaned them and will reuse them. Didn't notice until they were clean that they are all lower Viper dust boots - part number 52006404. Hmmm, we'll check them out before everything gets tightened down.

I also failed to acquire the "Precision Ball Joint Aluminum Cap Plug", part number 22398. This plug covers the zerk fitting and area to keep junk out. More shit to order...

Here's a pic of where things are today in ball joint land:
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Upright assembly (steering knuckle) with some test fitting before meeting the ball joints:
15366

[GTS Dean]

Besides horrifying pics, I do have a couple of questions:


4.) Both of the ball joints have indentation "marks/gouges" as you can see in one of the pics. Both marks look similar, but not as pronounced on one side and definitely don't look like a manufacturing "feature". What the hell is that from?

Thanks for the feedback.
Mike

15011

My suspicion is that they are swaging marks from the manufacturing process. Probably to make darned sure that even if severely worn, the balls don't drop out of the sockets and form the basis for a class action law suit against the manufacturers.

[Blue96GTS]

I'll buy that, seems reasonable. Even though they aren't exactly symmetrical, they are similar as to indicate a process created them as you mention. They don't look like they were dropped or mishandled in a way as to cause the indentation.

Thanks!

[jsantos2]

Hi There, I am new to the hole forum thing, However I can really use some help.
I have a Gen1 viper and I am trying the replace the upper ball joint, Understanding that they are threaded, I can't seem to get the ball joint off the upper control arm. Anyone have any ideas/tricks to get these off without damaging the control arm. I have new aftermarket Moog ball joints.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.