LATAMUD
12-26-2015, 08:59 AM
A few months ago I lost compression on my Stock internals Paxton setup. Thats what i get for pushing the cast Pistons. Did make 585 whp on a Mustang Dyno with 7 cylinders. I've been keeping track of my build but didn't know how long and drawn out this was going to get. I originally estimated 2 months and I'm still not done. I do have it a comfortable point I do see the light at the end of the tunnel soon approaching. I had been stockpiling parts for years based on research and good deals I couldn't pass up. Took notes and got help from a bunch of members: Nine Ball Tony, 345sBSpinnin, EllowViper, Greg Good, 99RT10>S Mike, Matt Terrico, Alex Macevicius, MDENIZ Mario, ACtechOPS Rick, 98Intrigue Ryan, roller Frank the machinist, JonB at PartsRack, Doug Levin DLM, kainedog Pete, Dan Lesser ViperSpecialtyPerformance. If I copied something you did before me and you want credit for the idea chime in. I admit I took a little bit away from a lot of other threads, thank you for sharing. With all due respect, I'm not profiting off your ideas, I probably just can't afford your quality products or can't stand your additude. I said with all due respect so everything is cool now. If you find I have wasted my time or you have a better one+ way of doing things please feel free to respond. I'm trying to share as much info as I can.
BLUF: 2003 Viper, forged internals, AEM Infinity (Flex fuel, traction/launch control, knock sensors), Paxton NOVI 2000 (2.75"+7% OD crank), Greg Good heads, custom grind solid roller cam, home ported intake, ARROW Racing single blade TB, M&M headers, Magnaflow exhaust, 2010 TR6060, McLeod twin disc and modded McLeod C6 hydraulic TOB, DIY diff cooler, DIY trans cooler, trunk mounted icebox. I'm calling this a budget build because I'm doing the work myself and most of the parts are used or great deals I found through forum classifieds and other sources.
Long story...
Spare short block, 2004 is slightly different to the 2003 block. The difference is ports for the oil cooler lines and oil sensors. The 2003 has an adapter that bolts to the side of the block, the 2004 is cast ready to go. Tore the used 04 down to the block. Cylinders were good, supposedly 12k miles on it, it was clean inside but several spun bearings, and a slug in one of the crank oil galleys.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151008_125556.jpg
Overkill for a FI setup but I just wanted to try it for myself. Home ported intake. Two guys over on the truck forums got into a heated argument over this method. Yes, I took the idea from them. This mod sucked, took forever and really not worth the hassle for the amount of time I spend with my less than adequate tools. I'm not sure how much it flows but I like to think it's still an improvement over stock.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151013_193636.jpg
I was going to try polishing the outside but stopped at a brushed look. It started oxidizing so I eventually coated it black.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151017_190635.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/image.jpg1.jpg
Test fit a Gen4 intake on Gen3 heads. The mounting angle is a little off. If you line up the ports on one bank the other bank will never line up.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151018_184656.jpg
Stock head, intake port
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151018_190116.jpg
My favorite part, Greg Good heads
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151018_190125.jpg
I spent a long time using all those MATHs I learned in school. But without a cam I wasn't sure if I would have piston to valve interference. ISKY sells a fly cut tool to add or increase valve reliefs.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/IMG_4779.jpg
Checking piston/valve clearance.
I bought a $4 pack of springs at the hardware store, cut a large one in half and used them in place of one each of the valve springs. The Pistons are forged production for a Ford stroker that had a near perfect compression height mated with the K1 rods. I also bought SRT8 Clevite Rod bearings.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151024_205458.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151024_205535.jpg
It was late, wanted to make progress, found this at the grocery store.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151024_205604.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151024_204631.jpg
Custom solid roller supercharger grind from Comp Cams. 116 LSA, .637 lift in/ex. Note, Comp Cams will spec out your cam to a 1.6 rocker arm by default. You have to tell them you have 1.7 rocker arms. At .637 I was especially worried about interference but I had about 1/2" of clearance with the ch of the Pistons I spec-ed out.
Crower shaft mounted rocker arms, billet valve cover spacers. 3/8 hardened pushrods; even with the heads shaved, solid lifter mod, and the shaft rockers, I was still able to use stock length pushrods.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151108_205743.jpg
2005-2006 crank has timing notches mid crank, this one has two key ways machined into the snout and has the oil pin mod. 2003-2004 runs the crank position off the back of the flywheel. The 05/06 crank uses a larger diameter balancer bolt too. Running main studs the crank scraper needs the mounting holes enlarged to slip over the studs. Also, the stud nuts are taller than the stock bolt heads. When using a swingarm pickup the base will need to be milled down the same amount to account for the added height of the stud nuts. One side of the swingarm base is already thinner than the other to account for the thickness of the crank scraper.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151018_183643.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151106_161800.jpg
Paxton offers supercharger pulleys as small as 2.75". I'm also running a 7% OD crank pulley.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151110_161550.jpg
From the old engine I already had the Gen4 swingarm pickup and Gen4 oil pan.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/Screenshot_2015-11-29-23-10-08.png
There are several ways to do this mod, it's not a direct bolt in. The base of the pickup bolts into the extended threads of the main bolts. I used 3 of 4. The tube from the swingarm to the timing cover is a larger diameter than the Gen3 tube. Also the Gen4 tube bolts into a Gen4 timing cover at a 45 degree angle, Gen3 at a 90 degree. I had to cut both tubes and welded the Gen4 swingarm side and the Gen3 timing cover side together. The Gen4 pan is necessary to complete this mod. Before I found these parts I was going to figure a way to get this to work: http://store.440source.com/External-Swinging-Oil-Pickup/productinfo/200-1075/
At $80 it's a very reasonable alternative.
I was surprised at how easy the old engine came out.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151112_153947.jpg
I got a good deal on an AEM Infinity and have added knock sensors, traction control, flex fuel. This flex fuel sensor was around $60, allows any mix between pump gas and E-85.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151112_161952.jpg
The traction control uses 4 crank position sensors pointed at the ABS reluctor rings. I used the factory 05/06 knock sensors. The 05/06 block had bosses in the valley to mount them. I just drilled two holes in the webbing and run through bolts.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151112_162336.jpg
BLUF: 2003 Viper, forged internals, AEM Infinity (Flex fuel, traction/launch control, knock sensors), Paxton NOVI 2000 (2.75"+7% OD crank), Greg Good heads, custom grind solid roller cam, home ported intake, ARROW Racing single blade TB, M&M headers, Magnaflow exhaust, 2010 TR6060, McLeod twin disc and modded McLeod C6 hydraulic TOB, DIY diff cooler, DIY trans cooler, trunk mounted icebox. I'm calling this a budget build because I'm doing the work myself and most of the parts are used or great deals I found through forum classifieds and other sources.
Long story...
Spare short block, 2004 is slightly different to the 2003 block. The difference is ports for the oil cooler lines and oil sensors. The 2003 has an adapter that bolts to the side of the block, the 2004 is cast ready to go. Tore the used 04 down to the block. Cylinders were good, supposedly 12k miles on it, it was clean inside but several spun bearings, and a slug in one of the crank oil galleys.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151008_125556.jpg
Overkill for a FI setup but I just wanted to try it for myself. Home ported intake. Two guys over on the truck forums got into a heated argument over this method. Yes, I took the idea from them. This mod sucked, took forever and really not worth the hassle for the amount of time I spend with my less than adequate tools. I'm not sure how much it flows but I like to think it's still an improvement over stock.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151013_193636.jpg
I was going to try polishing the outside but stopped at a brushed look. It started oxidizing so I eventually coated it black.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151017_190635.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/image.jpg1.jpg
Test fit a Gen4 intake on Gen3 heads. The mounting angle is a little off. If you line up the ports on one bank the other bank will never line up.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151018_184656.jpg
Stock head, intake port
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151018_190116.jpg
My favorite part, Greg Good heads
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151018_190125.jpg
I spent a long time using all those MATHs I learned in school. But without a cam I wasn't sure if I would have piston to valve interference. ISKY sells a fly cut tool to add or increase valve reliefs.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/IMG_4779.jpg
Checking piston/valve clearance.
I bought a $4 pack of springs at the hardware store, cut a large one in half and used them in place of one each of the valve springs. The Pistons are forged production for a Ford stroker that had a near perfect compression height mated with the K1 rods. I also bought SRT8 Clevite Rod bearings.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151024_205458.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151024_205535.jpg
It was late, wanted to make progress, found this at the grocery store.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151024_205604.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151024_204631.jpg
Custom solid roller supercharger grind from Comp Cams. 116 LSA, .637 lift in/ex. Note, Comp Cams will spec out your cam to a 1.6 rocker arm by default. You have to tell them you have 1.7 rocker arms. At .637 I was especially worried about interference but I had about 1/2" of clearance with the ch of the Pistons I spec-ed out.
Crower shaft mounted rocker arms, billet valve cover spacers. 3/8 hardened pushrods; even with the heads shaved, solid lifter mod, and the shaft rockers, I was still able to use stock length pushrods.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151108_205743.jpg
2005-2006 crank has timing notches mid crank, this one has two key ways machined into the snout and has the oil pin mod. 2003-2004 runs the crank position off the back of the flywheel. The 05/06 crank uses a larger diameter balancer bolt too. Running main studs the crank scraper needs the mounting holes enlarged to slip over the studs. Also, the stud nuts are taller than the stock bolt heads. When using a swingarm pickup the base will need to be milled down the same amount to account for the added height of the stud nuts. One side of the swingarm base is already thinner than the other to account for the thickness of the crank scraper.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151018_183643.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151106_161800.jpg
Paxton offers supercharger pulleys as small as 2.75". I'm also running a 7% OD crank pulley.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151110_161550.jpg
From the old engine I already had the Gen4 swingarm pickup and Gen4 oil pan.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/Screenshot_2015-11-29-23-10-08.png
There are several ways to do this mod, it's not a direct bolt in. The base of the pickup bolts into the extended threads of the main bolts. I used 3 of 4. The tube from the swingarm to the timing cover is a larger diameter than the Gen3 tube. Also the Gen4 tube bolts into a Gen4 timing cover at a 45 degree angle, Gen3 at a 90 degree. I had to cut both tubes and welded the Gen4 swingarm side and the Gen3 timing cover side together. The Gen4 pan is necessary to complete this mod. Before I found these parts I was going to figure a way to get this to work: http://store.440source.com/External-Swinging-Oil-Pickup/productinfo/200-1075/
At $80 it's a very reasonable alternative.
I was surprised at how easy the old engine came out.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151112_153947.jpg
I got a good deal on an AEM Infinity and have added knock sensors, traction control, flex fuel. This flex fuel sensor was around $60, allows any mix between pump gas and E-85.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151112_161952.jpg
The traction control uses 4 crank position sensors pointed at the ABS reluctor rings. I used the factory 05/06 knock sensors. The 05/06 block had bosses in the valley to mount them. I just drilled two holes in the webbing and run through bolts.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/Latamud/20151112_162336.jpg