1996 rear brake rotors

[dodgestang]

So I am changing rotors on my 96 GTS.
The fronts where a cake walk.
I haven't started the rears yet....they look like they might be a little more involved. Are there any readily available pictorials/links to manual explaining the process? I can't imagine it is too difficult but the caliper looked like it might take more to get off ;)

[thetalonguy]

It's still very simple. Remove the two caliper slide bolts which connect to the caliper bracket (make sure your mechanical brake is off ;-)). The caliper will probably still be somewhat clamped on. I usually just pry it off gently with a large flat head screw driver and with some tapping with a rubber mallet. Be careful not pry against the rubber piston boot.

The caliper should begin to back off. You might have to pry from the top and bottom slowly working it off. Once it's off, the old pads should fall right out. Don't let the caliper hang from the brake lines. You can use string or tape to support the caliper by holding it on the spring.

Once that's out of the way, remove the two larger caliper bracket bolts. Then you're just left with the rotor. It's probably rust welded on, so make sure you sprayed some WD40/PB blaster around the lug areas and on the back side where it meets the hub.

I end up using a 2X4X8 piece of wood and somewhat gently ram the rotor. After a few hits, it should start to come loose. I usually put some anti-seize on the hub before putting the new rotor on as well.

While you have everything apart, clean all the parts with brake cleaner and replace those rubber boots that are on the Caliper slide bolts. Use brake grease (little red packets at the auto store) and put in on the caliper slide bolts / inside the rubber boot.

Put the caliper bracket back on and place your brake pads in the caliper bracket.

You'll need to back the caliper piston in otherwise you won't be able to slide the caliper over the brake pads. I always use needle nose pliers to turn the piston clockwise to back it in. If you do this, be EXTREMELY careful as if the needle nose slips, it could pierce the rubber piston boot. There is a cubed tool out there, somewhere, that has nubs on it that won't slip, but I haven't come across it (the Harbor Freight one doesn't fit). You should back the piston far enough back in where it's flush with the caliper. Now the caliper should be able to fit over the new pads on the bracket. Put the caliper slide bolts back in (greased) and that should be it.

[dodgestang]

Sounds straight forward enough......

[sparkrn]

It's a total of 4 bolts, you won't have any problems.

[Mad Max]

If my fading memory is correct I was able to first remove the pads after knocking out the retainer pin. With the pads removed the rotor will come off without removing the caliper. Once the rotor is off then you can use whatever tool you have available(I made my own) to retract the piston by rotating it with said tool. Much easier with the caliper still bolted in place than trying to chase it around.

[Tom, F&L GoR]

Matt is describing the Gen 2 ABS rear caliper. The 96 caliper has two attaching bolts, but no bracket.

Punch the pin out of the body from the rear, make sure you catch the anti rattle spring. The outer pad can then be tapped up or down along the rotor face to get it out. Once out, the rear pad will fall out. The rotor can now be removed without removing the caliper. Look at the cavity in the caliper for the anti rattle spring. That will show you how the asymetric anti rattle spring needs to be installed.

The piston can be retracted by screwing it clockwise and pushing. Sometimes it's hard to turn, sometimes it resists retracting. You can always try lifting the dust boot out of the piston groove and squirting in some brake fluid. DO NOT SQUIRT LUBRICANT SPRAY because the boot is compatible with brake fluid and not necessarily hydrocarbon solvents or brake cleaner spray.

[thetalonguy]

Oops, thanks for catching that...I ASSumed the rears had a similar caliper setup. :-P

[dodgestang]

Seems all pretty easy........I also picked up a nice caliper tool last year a step above the old cube so it should be pretty easy to screw it back in. Hearing that I can drop the rotor without pulling the caliper makes the job even easier! Now I just need to find time

[Tom, F&L GoR]

Typo? You can drop the rotor without pulling the caliper.