TPMS reset question

[nuviper]

Hi guys,
Sorry to bother. I drove my TA 2.0 at Putnam Park road course today. And because the left tires wore faster than the right ones, I switch the left and right tires together with the wheels. Do I then need to reset the TPMS sensors or I just need to run some distance to let the system relearn?

Wish you good holiday.

Sincerely,
nuviper

[Stubbygda]

My ta 2.0 relearned after a couple miles when i put track wheels on with new sensors.

[Steve-Indy]

There have been posts here stating that these sensors relearn on their own...AND, posts that say they do not. I have not had to deal with this on our 2014 as yet...so I have not first hand experience with the Gen V TPMS.

Here is a quote from Chrysler's 2014 Viper Service Manual on CD:



"22 - Tires and Wheels / Tire Pressure Monitoring / SENSOR, Tire Pressure Monitoring (TPM) / Operation

OPERATION

Each tire pressure sensor serves five functions:

•It is used as a valve stem to inflate and deflate the tire.
•It periodically measures tire pressure.
•It monitors air temperature inside the tire.
•It monitors the sensor internal battery status.
•It transmits the tire pressure value to the TPM module in the vehicle.

The tire pressure sensor is equipped with sensors used to detect the radial acceleration of the wheel and the direction of rotation of the wheel.

The sensor transmits the data at regular intervals, via an encoded RF signal to a receiver circuit located in the TPM (CORAX) module

The system operates by monitoring a radio frequency transmission from the sensor/transmitters located in each wheel. When the vehicle reaches a speed of approximately 32 km/h (20 mph), centrifugal force created by the rotating wheels closes a roll switch inside each sensor/transmitter, powering up the circuitry. The sensor/transmitters will only send out information while the vehicle is operating at speeds above 32 km/h (20 mph). To facilitate transmitting the radio signal to the TPM module, the tire valve stems act as antennas for the tire pressure sensor/transmitters.

Each tire pressure sensor/transmitter is powered by an internal battery. The battery is not replaceable separately. In the event of battery failure, the entire tire pressure sensor at that wheel will require replacement. To extend the life of the battery, the sensor/transmitter is not activated until the vehicle reaches a speed of approximately 32 km/h (20 mph) as stated earlier. Each tire pressure sensor/transmitter has a unique identity code. This allows the TPM system to indicate to a technician, through diagnostic trouble codes in the module, which tire of the vehicle has lost air pressure. This code is also used to identify to a technician which pressure sensor/transmitter has set a diagnostic trouble code. For this reason, if a tire pressure sensor needs to be replaced, the new sensor must be programmed to have its identity code recognized by the receiver. "

ALSO:

"8.Program the identification code for the new tire pressure sensor into the TPM module.

9.Verify that the TPM module has been programmed with the identification code from the new tire pressure sensor using a scan tool. If the identification code and tire pressure thresholds from the new tire pressure transmitter are present in the receivers memory the new tire pressure transmitter has been correctly programmed to the receiver."
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The problem is that so many times these service manuals have "cut and paste" info from prior publications...thus allowing lingering questions to arise. As you know, the Gen III and Gen IV TPM systems were different than the Gen V...requiring different tools. My DRB III WILL NOT communicate with a Gen V (yes, I have tried). Also, my wiTECH is no longer supported in the "aftermarket" circumstance.

Your option will be "try it and see"...but, do so CAUTIOUSLY as I cannot tell you how this may/may not effect your other dynamic systems.

It will be both interesting and helpful to hear what you experience today.

[Whitey]

Great information. Thanks

[nuviper]

I check the tire pressure using my air pump and compare the result with the one shown on the dash board and found it seems that the TPMS won't relearn when you just switch the left and tires and wheels.
As for the track day yesterday, I must say that this car is far better than my expectation. This is my second track day in the TA 2.0, and I'm still learning to control the snake. But the performance of the car is really amazing. The coarsa tires are sticky, the powers are huge, the steering is very quick and precise, and the ESP is also calibrated well: every time you go too far away from the limit, it will get the car back to the line. In fact, I think this ESP is really helpful for a person who drives the viper on the track for the first time and try to find the limit of the car. But the seats are not good enough I think. Some times I need to use my knees to keep myself in the right position, a racing harness might be a good solution :-). And because the shifter positions for different gears are very close, I once shifted to 2nd by mistake when I intended to shift from 3 to 4, the engine revs to the redline and I quickly step down the clutch...I know the gear box has a self protection mechanism to avoid the downshift when the wheel speed is too high so I hope that this mistaken shift won't be a big issue and I will change my shifting method to avoid this in the future.
Also, I'm lucky to drive a c7 z07 (8 speed auto) these days and I found that these two cars are totally different. On the street the c7z is more comfortable and has more hi-tech and fancy facilities to play with. The viper is old-school with heavier steering, stiffer suspension, and louder inside noise. But thanks to the very convenient Uconnect system and the Garmin GPS, the car is still a good choice for road trips if you get used to the noise. But things are different on the track. Although these two cars run as fast as each other on the track, the viper is more durable in terms of heat soak. When the coolant temperature of the z07 reaches 270F, the coolant temperature of viper is only 210F and it will drop to about 194F in the cooling lap, which is very close to the temperature when I drive my car in the city. Such a big difference is really a surprise.
All in all, after 5 months, 5300 miles with my viper, I should say that this car is far better than my expectation and I will never regret buying it. :-)

There have been posts here stating that these sensors relearn on their own...AND, posts that say they do not. I have not had to deal with this on our 2014 as yet...so I have not first hand experience with the Gen V TPMS.

Here is a quote from Chrysler's 2014 Viper Service Manual on CD:



"22 - Tires and Wheels / Tire Pressure Monitoring / SENSOR, Tire Pressure Monitoring (TPM) / Operation

OPERATION

Each tire pressure sensor serves five functions:

•It is used as a valve stem to inflate and deflate the tire.
•It periodically measures tire pressure.
•It monitors air temperature inside the tire.
•It monitors the sensor internal battery status.
•It transmits the tire pressure value to the TPM module in the vehicle.

The tire pressure sensor is equipped with sensors used to detect the radial acceleration of the wheel and the direction of rotation of the wheel.

The sensor transmits the data at regular intervals, via an encoded RF signal to a receiver circuit located in the TPM (CORAX) module

The system operates by monitoring a radio frequency transmission from the sensor/transmitters located in each wheel. When the vehicle reaches a speed of approximately 32 km/h (20 mph), centrifugal force created by the rotating wheels closes a roll switch inside each sensor/transmitter, powering up the circuitry. The sensor/transmitters will only send out information while the vehicle is operating at speeds above 32 km/h (20 mph). To facilitate transmitting the radio signal to the TPM module, the tire valve stems act as antennas for the tire pressure sensor/transmitters.

Each tire pressure sensor/transmitter is powered by an internal battery. The battery is not replaceable separately. In the event of battery failure, the entire tire pressure sensor at that wheel will require replacement. To extend the life of the battery, the sensor/transmitter is not activated until the vehicle reaches a speed of approximately 32 km/h (20 mph) as stated earlier. Each tire pressure sensor/transmitter has a unique identity code. This allows the TPM system to indicate to a technician, through diagnostic trouble codes in the module, which tire of the vehicle has lost air pressure. This code is also used to identify to a technician which pressure sensor/transmitter has set a diagnostic trouble code. For this reason, if a tire pressure sensor needs to be replaced, the new sensor must be programmed to have its identity code recognized by the receiver. "

ALSO:

"8.Program the identification code for the new tire pressure sensor into the TPM module.

9.Verify that the TPM module has been programmed with the identification code from the new tire pressure sensor using a scan tool. If the identification code and tire pressure thresholds from the new tire pressure transmitter are present in the receivers memory the new tire pressure transmitter has been correctly programmed to the receiver."
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
The problem is that so many times these service manuals have "cut and paste" info from prior publications...thus allowing lingering questions to arise. As you know, the Gen III and Gen IV TPM systems were different than the Gen V...requiring different tools. My DRB III WILL NOT communicate with a Gen V (yes, I have tried). Also, my wiTECH is no longer supported in the "aftermarket" circumstance.

Your option will be "try it and see"...but, do so CAUTIOUSLY as I cannot tell you how this may/may not effect your other dynamic systems.

It will be both interesting and helpful to hear what you experience today.

[Vprbite]

A smidge off topic but NuViper, please be careful about missing fourth and getting 2nd. The dreaded "money shift." The gen V may have some kind of protection mechanism that I'm not aware of but any other viper and that is a recipe to seize the rear end up. In fact,mtheir is footage of a wreck from a few months back of someone doing that. Generally, it's due to what Iwould call "overly zealous gripping of the shift knob" or something to that effect. If you grab it like a pistol and for your 1-2 shifts, fine, but if you grab it that way for 3-4...your natural tendency (because of the way our bodies are designed) will be to pull inwards, towards yourself and thereby catching second.

I have tracked a bit and a, no expert, but even on the street I have a system that works for me when jamming gears hard on spirited runs. Shift 1-2 as you like (most grip like a pistol), push up to third with my palm, then, almost instinctively now my thumb rotates and points down with my four finger pointing towards the passenger seat. (Note...this does not mean I am not no,ding the shift knob at all, it just keeps me from grabbing like I am hanging on for dear life) this will make your natural motion at this point directly back to fourth. If you push too far over, you catch 6th and slow down, but you don't get hurt or hurt anyone else. Also, that's never happened to me. You would have to push against the spring to do that and when gripping like that, you will tend to just want to go straight back.

Sorry to go off topic, just wanted to hopefully be of some help in keeping you safe out there.

[nuviper]

Thank you Vprbite! I'm now practice to put my palm on the top of the shifter when shift from 3 to 4 even on the street and hope that I'll get use to it as soon as possible to avoid the mistake downshift in the future. Really appreciate your kind information. :-)

A smidge off topic but NuViper, please be careful about missing fourth and getting 2nd. The dreaded "money shift." The gen V may have some kind of protection mechanism that I'm not aware of but any other viper and that is a recipe to seize the rear end up. In fact,mtheir is footage of a wreck from a few months back of someone doing that. Generally, it's due to what Iwould call "overly zealous gripping of the shift knob" or something to that effect. If you grab it like a pistol and for your 1-2 shifts, fine, but if you grab it that way for 3-4...your natural tendency (because of the way our bodies are designed) will be to pull inwards, towards yourself and thereby catching second.

I have tracked a bit and a, no expert, but even on the street I have a system that works for me when jamming gears hard on spirited runs. Shift 1-2 as you like (most grip like a pistol), push up to third with my palm, then, almost instinctively now my thumb rotates and points down with my four finger pointing towards the passenger seat. (Note...this does not mean I am not no,ding the shift knob at all, it just keeps me from grabbing like I am hanging on for dear life) this will make your natural motion at this point directly back to fourth. If you push too far over, you catch 6th and slow down, but you don't get hurt or hurt anyone else. Also, that's never happened to me. You would have to push against the spring to do that and when gripping like that, you will tend to just want to go straight back.

Sorry to go off topic, just wanted to hopefully be of some help in keeping you safe out there.

[Steve-Indy]

Thanks for the followup.