Car audio: Which install kit to use for single-DIN in 2009 ACR?

[Smoky]

Can someone point me to the proper fitting single-DIN install kit for my 09 ACR? Crutchfield, as usual, responds with "we haven't researched your vehicle".

I want to install an Alpine CDE-HD149BT. I need to know which faceplate, wiring harness, antenna adapter, etc. Model numbers would be ideal. I think I have found the right parts but cannot get a confirmation from vendors if stuff will fit.

I have found this kit:
http://www.carid.com/2009-dodge-viper-stereo-installation/metra-stereo-dash-kit-4480550.html

and this kit:
http://www.carid.com/2009-dodge-viper-stereo-installation/metra-stereo-dash-kit-4480548.html

and this wiring harness:
http://www.carid.com/2009-dodge-viper-stereo-installation/metra-wiring-harness-4731857.html

But when I cross-reference those parts with other vendors I get the "not recommended for your vehicle" warning. So I am unsure if these parts will really work.

Any advice?

Thanks

[Ninjakris]

If nobody chimes in, I will get your answers when I get off work in a few hours.

[Steve M]

This is the list of stuff I ordered to install my Kenwood single-DIN head unit:

1. Kenwood KIV-701: 1 (head unit)
2. Kenwood KCA-IP202: 1 (iPod adapter)
3. Metra 70-6502: 1 (wiring harness adapter)
4. Scosche CRAB / CRA: 1 (antenna adapter)
5. Metra 99-6503: 1 (single DIN dash adapter)

Hope that helps!

[Black Moon]

You should be able to find an adapter that plugs in the factory harness and the new head unit. I got mine thru Crutchfield. No cutting or splicing required.

[Smoky]

If nobody chimes in, I will get your answers when I get off work in a few hours.
Thanks!



This is the list of stuff I ordered to install my Kenwood single-DIN head unit:

1. Kenwood KIV-701: 1 (head unit)
2. Kenwood KCA-IP202: 1 (iPod adapter)
3. Metra 70-6502: 1 (wiring harness adapter)
4. Scosche CRAB / CRA: 1 (antenna adapter)
5. Metra 99-6503: 1 (single DIN dash adapter)

Hope that helps!

Do you have this gear installed? How well does that single-DIN dash adapter fit? That's the one I keep coming across. Looks like the right shape.


You should be able to find an adapter that plugs in the factory harness and the new head unit. I got mine thru Crutchfield. No cutting or splicing required.
Do you have a Crutchfield part number?


Thanks for the help!

[ACRucrazy]

Metra without the pocket is a sturdier kit. Its the one I use.

-Kit, Harness, antenna adapter. Pretty simple install.

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s99/ACRucrazy/009%20SSG%20ACR/VCA/1150982_10151607655407643_71082798_n_zpsad2f058e.j pg

[Steve M]

Do you have this gear installed? How well does that single-DIN dash adapter fit? That's the one I keep coming across. Looks like the right shape.

Yes...all of that stuff has been installed for about 1.5 years now, no issues. The single-DIN adapter fits just fine...the OEM Viper head unit uses the same generic Chrysler/Dodge shape that most of their vehicles came with during that time frame. I did not want the adapter with the CD pocket thing, so this one fit the bill for me.

[Smoky]

Metra without the pocket is a sturdier kit. Its the one I use.

-Kit, Harness, antenna adapter. Pretty simple install.


Do you have a part number or URL for the harness? I don't mind soldering and I think we've identified that wire-in harness. But someone mentioned the direct-fit harness that does not require splicing. Is that the one you used?

Thanks

[Smoky]

Can I just get this adapter from Metra and wire it to the Metra Alpine harness from Crutchfield so I don't have to cut the factory harness?
http://www.metraonline.com/part/71-6502-1

Or would I use this one? The one above is male, the one below is female. Which one would I mate to the Alpine harness to connect to the OEM side?

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120706502/Receiver-Wire-Harness.html?tp=2977

[Steve M]

Can I just get this adapter from Metra and wire it to the Metra Alpine harness from Crutchfield so I don't have to cut the factory harness?
http://www.metraonline.com/part/71-6502-1

Or would I use this one? The one above is male, the one below is female. Which one would I mate to the Alpine harness to connect to the OEM side?

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120706502/Receiver-Wire-Harness.html?tp=2977

The 70-6502 (crutchfield link) is the one I used...you mate the Alpine harness to that one (I soldered/shrink wrapped mine, but you can also do butt splices if you aren't handy with a soldering iron). The plug shown on that page will plug into the vehicle harness plug that you remove when you take the OEM radio out...the other end will plug into your new head unit. That way, the only splicing you are doing is to that adapter and the harness that comes with your head unit...the OEM wiring remains untouched.

[ACRucrazy]

Do you have a part number or URL for the harness? I don't mind soldering and I think we've identified that wire-in harness. But someone mentioned the direct-fit harness that does not require splicing. Is that the one you used?

Thanks


harness from the local Best Buy.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-wiring-harness-for-most-2002-2007-chrysler-vehicles/9811203.p?id=1218177559148&skuid=9811203&sellerId=

antenna adapter

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-antenna-adapter-for-select-2002-and-later-vehicles-black/9810701.p?id=1218177559704&skuid=9810701&sellerId=

kit

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-installation-kit-for-select-chrysler-vehicles-black/9797754.p?id=1218176207704&skuId=9797754

It's a pretty easy install if you can use an allen wrench and screw driver. Wired up the harness with a few crimp caps and zip ties and it was plug and play, no cutting etc. I could give you advice if you got stuck or had questions.

[Smoky]

Thanks everyone! My shopping cart is getting out of hand already. Began with the idea of "just getting a head unit" but has now evolved into a full system. I figure, why do some of this twice when I can do it once and spend a ton more now. HAHA

[Smoky]

Ok guys, stupid question but I think I'm missing a part for the head unit install.

Factory head unit removed. There are four little "bumpers" that hook to the framework inside the dash that seemed to support and keep the rear of the factory head unit in place. The front of the factory head unit was secured using the four screws.

New single-DIN Alpine head unit going in. But what holds it in place?? I'm used to there being a "cage" left behind by the factory head unit that the Alpine unit "snaps" into using the little teeth that you pry outwards to make the fit solid and straight. Then I would have assumed to use the Metra 99-6503 single-din adapter to complete the fitment.

But there is no "cage" that the factory head unit sat in. Only those four little clip-on bumpers that I found supporting the factory head unit and lots of empty space!

What holds the aftermarket single-din head unit in place? Am I meant to reuse those bumpers to support the rear of the aftermarket head unit? My single-din adapter kit only came with the outer trim piece as shown here http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120996503/Metra-99-6503-In-dash-Receiver-Kit.html?tp=3121&awkw=62497055425&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=33967597585&awdv=c.

Am I missing some parts? What holds the front of the aftermarket head unit in place? Does the aftermarket head unit just "rest" inside the Metra trim piece?

Thanks!

[whitebeard]

If the unit is a simple cage (about 3 to 4 inches in depth) yes just front will hold it. I really suggest you extend the bottom the factory hole so you can support the rear of the head. you don't want it taking bounces and the more secure it is the less rattles you will get.

DO NOT USE A BUTT SPLICE, go out and buy the adapter plug. No cutting and color coded to the car.

[Smoky]

Thanks. I'll see if I can find something to support it.

Not following the butt splice response. No mention of that above from me? Personally, I solder my connections.

[Steve M]

I installed my head unit as is, no extra support at the rear. No major issues to report.

[Smoky]

Thanks Steve I'll get it installed and see how solid it feels. We have some wicked bumps and bad roads around here so I was concerned when I saw the lack of support. Maybe I can reuse the "bumper" clips from the OEM head unit with some sort of added structure in there to bolster the rear.

[whitebeard]

Sorry, after 20 plus years as a factory repair station for Chrysler Electronics, AC Delco (now DBA Delphi), Ford Electronics (now DBA as Visteon), I hate when some folks do a cut out old plugs and butt splice in the new ones. I never did it, instead I bought the reciprocal plugs from Metra, American International, or the manufacturer.

If I really needed to cut anything in it was soldered and heat shrink tubed. I worked with a Ford dealership at the Rail line end in Billerica MA. Any FOMOCO vehicle for the North East came thru Iverson Ford. I used to get 15 to 30 cars a month with wire harnesses cut away and had to repair it back to a factory harness.

I just like it to look clean and then put the old head back in at the end of it.

[Smoky]

Nah I'm big on clean installs. And I love soldering. Have a nice Hakko with adjustable temp. Appreciate the concern tho. You're correct too as I've seen some chopped up fire hazard installs in my day, mainly from installers. That's why I like to do these installs myself anymore.

[Smoky]

Am curious about one more thing at the moment...

I'm considering keeping the OEM rear channel active for fill. I realize that's unnecessary but am just thinking about it until I decide to upgrade the rear speakers (if I feel it is necessary later...usually rear fill is useless in a car this loud but what the hell..MOAR!).

I'm using an Alpine head unit which has an internal 45w amp. If I connect the rear speakers via the harness adapter will the head unit drive both the aftermarket amp and the rear speakers or are the speaker connections on the harness disabled once RCA's are connected to drive an aftermarket amp?

Will the OEM amps cause an issue in this configuration?

Now that I write this I'm thinking maybe I should just leave them disconnected until I put in proper rear channel speakers connected to the amp. Thoughts?

[ACRucrazy]

I cringe at the thought of a cut factory harness when a $20 adapter is readily available..

Most aftermarket decks these days the RCAs are just commoned off the amp outs. You can use both. Some have a feature to turn off the internal amp when using just RCAs but the majority don't.

[whitebeard]

I would do it the way you want the first time. The more you keep pulling fascia out or unscrewing items, the more rattles and squeaks will start to happen. Granted you may not hear it, but over time you may.

One and done.

[Steve M]

I did not use the rear fill speakers when I did mine, but I never tried it, so I don't know if it would have made any difference. If you are inclined, give it a whirl and let us know what you think.

[Smoky]

Thanks guys. Will do

[man_car]

I got the Metra IBR-WHCR2 wiring harness. Did you guys hook the brown wire to anything? Even my directions don't show a brown wire being available even thou it clearly is in the harness. I didn't see a amp power on wire and I'm wondering if the brown wire turns on the stock amp??

[ACRucrazy]

The brown wire is commonly pinned as a mute wire on aftermarket Chrysler harness' however I can't recall the last time I have actually seen it pinned on the vehicle side. I usually cap it off or yank it from the harness.

The OEM amp turn on wire usually lines up with the power antenna wire on the aftermarket. So hook up blue/white from your new radio to the blue on the Metra.

[man_car]

The brown wire is commonly pinned as a mute wire on aftermarket Chrysler harness' however I can't recall the last time I have actually seen it pinned on the vehicle side. I usually cap it off or yank it from the harness.

The OEM amp turn on wire usually lines up with the power antenna wire on the aftermarket. So hook up blue/white from your new radio to the blue on the Metra.

On mine I have the blue from each side tied together and they are listed as Antena control (radio) and power ant (Metra). I still have the blue/white (radio) unhooked and it's listed as power control wire for external amp.