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Malu59RT
08-24-2015, 12:12 PM
I seem to recall reading on here that there was something special about the Viper alignment, but don't recall what it was. I've had RUF align my 2008 without issue, but wasn't sure if my 2013 would need to be done at a dealer for any particular reason?

BDZ1984
08-24-2015, 01:31 PM
I had my McLaren guys do mine after we did the spring cap install. Changed it to T/A spec as well.

FLATOUT
08-24-2015, 01:57 PM
I had my McLaren guys do mine after we did the spring cap install. Changed it to T/A spec as well.

Do you have the TA specs?

mjorgensen
08-24-2015, 02:23 PM
-2.5 camber front and -1.6 camber rear, the toe could be slightly in to slightly out (.05 to -.05) from what I've seen, rear toe is .20 total toe in.

Well there you have it VVVVV I was off a little lol.

darbgnik
08-24-2015, 02:27 PM
I gave this spec sheet to my alignment guy

http://media.chrysler.com/dcxms/assets/specs/2014_SRT_ViperGTS_SP.pdf

FLATOUT
08-24-2015, 02:46 PM
-2.5 camber front and -1.6 camber rear, the toe could be slightly in to slightly out (.05 to -.05) from what I've seen, rear toe is .20 total toe in.

Well there you have it VVVVV I was off a little lol.


Thanks Guys


I gave this spec sheet to my alignment guy

http://media.chrysler.com/dcxms/assets/specs/2014_SRT_ViperGTS_SP.pdf

Thanks!

FrgMstr
08-24-2015, 04:07 PM
Changing to the TA spec was one of the best "mods" you can do if you like to go around corners...fast.

J TNT
08-24-2015, 05:01 PM
Does the extra camber on the front of your Gen 4 equate to less front end push at the limit on large and small tracks FrgMstr ?
Thanks ! Jay

FrgMstr
08-24-2015, 07:58 PM
Car has much less understeer than with the stock alignment. The negative camber gives you a much better footprint in the corners.

catwood
08-24-2015, 08:29 PM
-2.5 camber front and -1.6 camber rear, the toe could be slightly in to slightly out (.05 to -.05) from what I've seen, rear toe is .20 total toe in.

Well there you have it VVVVV I was off a little lol.



by comparison what did you run in a Gen 2. I'm thinking I'd want a tad more maybe .5* camber. I need to get mine aligned in the next week or so

Bruce
08-24-2015, 09:15 PM
Getting my TA aligned after the spring caps install really improved the handling of the car as the spring cap install messed a lot of things up alignment wise, car went from real twitchy at the limit to progressive breakaway. I think car is now at -2.9 camber with max. caster.

FLATOUT
08-24-2015, 09:28 PM
Changing to the TA spec was one of the best "mods" you can do if you like to go around corners...fast.

Yeah I miss it from my TA. We have the COTA event two weeks away so I'll have Morgan do it this week.

ACR Steve
08-25-2015, 11:00 AM
A aggressive alignment is one of the best and most important performance upgrades you can to a car.

Understand the increase in negative camber will make the car feel a lot different on the street. The car will pull a lot me in the ruts on the street and be twitchier.

TrackAire
08-25-2015, 01:50 PM
Thanks Guys



Thanks!


Andy,

The Chrysler spec sheet listed above shows rear caster of .7 for the Gen 5. I think people should be very careful because many alignment shops do not check rear caster and throw it off spec adjusting camber/toe. If the rear caster is off, it will cause a very unpredictable car when cornering.

Also, do you know what Chrysler specs the rear caster for the Gen 4 with an aggressive alignment? What does your shop recommend when going very aggressive on the alignment for track use?

Thanks,
George

FrgMstr
08-25-2015, 02:26 PM
Andy,

The Chrysler spec sheet listed above shows rear caster of .7 for the Gen 5. I think people should be very careful because many alignment shops do not check rear caster and throw it off spec adjusting camber/toe. If the rear caster is off, it will cause a very unpredictable car when cornering.

Also, do you know what Chrysler specs the rear caster for the Gen 4 with an aggressive alignment? What does your shop recommend when going very aggressive on the alignment for track use?

Thanks,
gEroge

I had Cobb Tuning do mine here in Dallas, but I can't find the sheet now. That said, the car has never handled better and actually has better road manners than it did when it was stock. Rear stays tucked in much better now.

TrackAire
08-25-2015, 04:51 PM
I had Cobb Tuning do mine here in Dallas, but I can't find the sheet now. That said, the car has never handled better and actually has better road manners than it did when it was stock. Rear stays tucked in much better now.

Did Cobb document what the rear caster number is when they were done with the alignment?

FrgMstr
08-25-2015, 04:55 PM
Did Cobb document what the rear caster number is when they were done with the alignment?

Yes they had all specs on the alignment, but I threw the sheet away some time ago.

FLATOUT
08-25-2015, 05:22 PM
Andy,

The Chrysler spec sheet listed above shows rear caster of .7 for the Gen 5. I think people should be very careful because many alignment shops do not check rear caster and throw it off spec adjusting camber/toe. If the rear caster is off, it will cause a very unpredictable car when cornering.

Also, do you know what Chrysler specs the rear caster for the Gen 4 with an aggressive alignment? What does your shop recommend when going very aggressive on the alignment for track use?

Thanks,
George

George,

I will keep an eye on the rear, and thank you. I'll check with Morgan and see where we set up most of the X's. I'm sure we have some of Ben's setups around here somewhere.

Andy

darbgnik
08-25-2015, 06:15 PM
Andy,

The Chrysler spec sheet listed above shows rear caster of .7 for the Gen 5. I think people should be very careful because many alignment shops do not check rear caster and throw it off spec adjusting camber/toe. If the rear caster is off, it will cause a very unpredictable car when cornering.Also, do you know what Chrysler specs the rear caster for the Gen 4 with an aggressive alignment? What does your shop recommend when going very aggressive on the alignment for track use?

Thanks,
George

This is true, every print-off I have received after an alignment shows front caster, but not the rear.

TrackAire
08-25-2015, 07:40 PM
So how about it, what is the magic number for rear caster for maximum road course performance for both the Gen 5 and Gen 4 (I'm guessing they might be different because of the toe link differences....maybe not).

Anybody from Viper Exchange or Woodhouse care to chime in on the correct rear caster numbers for the Gen 4 and Gen 5??

Thanks in advance,
George

mjorgensen
08-26-2015, 10:14 AM
So how about it, what is the magic number for rear caster for maximum road course performance for both the Gen 5 and Gen 4 (I'm guessing they might be different because of the toe link differences....maybe not).

Anybody from Viper Exchange or Woodhouse care to chime in on the correct rear caster numbers for the Gen 4 and Gen 5??

Thanks in advance,
George

Sorry was out yesterday visiting a sick friend, We always stick with the .7 for rear caster even though the spec allows for +- .50 and .30 cross variance, if you don't have the dealer tools to measure it (most dealers don't even have it!) the best bet is to make sure you adjust both of the rear lower control arm eccentrics the exact same amount when you are doing camber adjustments, do not let the shop just use 1 of them, seems like common sense, but there is not much of that left in the world.

We have actually always increased negative camber to combat the tramlining the front tires do on the street, the smaller footprint it gives lessons the tendency, the toe will also affect the darting of course.

Gen2 specs, were done on a for use basis and the tires also mattered. I liked more contact on the rears so would actually run less camber, the fronts would be around -2 most of the time.

TrackAire
08-26-2015, 10:26 AM
Sorry was out yesterday visiting a sick friend, We always stick with the .7 for rear caster even though the spec allows for +- .50 and .30 cross variance, if you don't have the dealer tools to measure it (most dealers don't even have it!) the best bet is to make sure you adjust both of the rear lower control arm eccentrics the exact same amount when you are doing camber adjustments, do not let the shop just use 1 of them, seems like common sense, but there is not much of that left in the world.

We have actually always increased negative camber to combat the tramlining the front tires do on the street, the smaller footprint it gives lessons the tendency, the toe will also affect the darting of course.

Gen2 specs, were done on a for use basis and the tires also mattered. I liked more contact on the rears so would actually run less camber, the fronts would be around -2 most of the time.


Thanks Mark, I appreciate the info. Too many shops screw up the rear caster making camber adjustments and have no clue how that effects handling.

SilveRT8
08-26-2015, 12:57 PM
Question here about tramlining.
I installed lower caps on my GTS and asked for an alignment in between GTS and T/A, but now find that the car follows ruts a lot more than before. Since I do 85% street driving and only 3 to 4 lapping days a year, I would prefer to eliminate the tramlining. Should I go back to OE specs with the lower caps ? I also did not find a big improvement on the track.
Here is what I got now : Front camber -2.1, Rear camber -1.3, Caster front 6.3, Caster rear ?? ( should be .7), Total toe front .14, Total toe rear .21

cab33
03-15-2016, 11:38 AM
Anyone one have the factory TA alignment specs since the link above does not work anymore?

cab33
03-15-2016, 11:54 AM
Never mind... found it:
http://www.billswebspace.com/2014SRTViperSP.pdf

FrgMstr
03-15-2016, 05:08 PM
http://kylebennett.com/files/hfpics/Viper%20Alignment%20ACR%20TA%20SRT.jpg

keeptrying56
02-07-2019, 07:34 PM
Scribed

ViperGTS14
10-29-2019, 08:34 PM
Question here about tramlining.
I installed lower caps on my GTS and asked for an alignment in between GTS and T/A, but now find that the car follows ruts a lot more than before. Since I do 85% street driving and only 3 to 4 lapping days a year, I would prefer to eliminate the tramlining. Should I go back to OE specs with the lower caps ? I also did not find a big improvement on the track.
Here is what I got now : Front camber -2.1, Rear camber -1.3, Caster front 6.3, Caster rear ?? ( should be .7), Total toe front .14, Total toe rear .21

why do I find the oldest thread to bump up lol. Seriously this is where I'm at right now, dealing with tramlining darting tendency and I'm about to do lowering caps which may make it worse. Glad to see I'm not alone seems a alignment is in my way.